Skill Roll
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Potentially have the opportunity to pick one up. Missing the front glass, coin mech and a lever or two. But from the looks of searching around. Levers are 3d printed and switches can be used. Anything else I need to check for, price seems right.
The lower section looks all gray from the pic I saw though
Snagged it this am.
Missing 2 levers, and two are sink handles, so need 4.
Glass
Coin mech
“Lockdown bar” on the front wood is missing
The top wood going horizontal was replaced, just doesn’t match.
I found handles at shapeways.
Gbresto May make a repro?
Any manuals? Looking to see how I can get the coin mech replaced
Also how are the levers secured down?
499E65D6-A2F6-4BA3-99D2-E672A18B4B61 (resized).jpeg60F0D0D6-7E6F-4CCE-9BBF-AE1EDF605B5D (resized).jpeg7C994C1B-E7AC-41B4-B203-C8C2C72E85DA (resized).jpegBA58700C-63C0-4F95-B76F-36F9395DB81B (resized).jpeg
Levers from shapeways
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bally-skill-roll-handles-1
Glass
CPR
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/skill-roll/
BGResto
http://bgresto.com/?p=2355
contact as they may make them, [email protected]
pinrepairs tips
http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/bskillr.htm
Manual (pinrepair)
http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/bskillr_man.pdf
Schematics (pinrepair)
http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/bskillr_sch.pdf
I have 1 gulmite screw on a handle that is left to remove. If someone can let me borrow the driver, I'll ship it back with the 2 gulmite screws I have.
The replacement that works for me is a 10/32 thread 1/2" length.
I went with philips for now as it will be in my house.
For a replacement on route, maybe the snake eyes security screw for the best look, or the torx security.
Shawn that is awesome! Everything works? What issues did you have with it?
Has anyone swapped to led lighting?
Are there stencils available?
Can someone measure the dimensions of the 5c plate?
Quoted from swinks:never seen these before, they look cool, had to find a video
My game is missing many metal parts... you were one of the first people I thought of to help make replacements on shapeways :-p
I can remove mine tomorrow and send pics
Quoted from swinks:I saw one on there, is it not correct? if not I could possibly help?
can you send pics of the mechanism - just curious but if you need a part I can entertain by at least looking at the parts and go from there.
Ah, that is just the handle. Other metal parts that I can’t find are the 5c coin plate and coin entry at the top of the game. I was hoping to find someone with some to get 3d scanned or lots of pics with measurements to replicate in cad
Quoted from Shawn1976:Seems one of the leaf switches wasn’t fully in contact.
As for the lighting, I’m keeping that original.
Stencils for the sides?
Here are some photos of the 5cent plate.
[quoted image][quoted image]
My cab looks like they painted it gray bed liner and hand drawn some of the sides but didn’t do the front. :/
Quoted from swinks:yes, send pics through and then we can add measurements etc and I can see if I can help.
if possible post them with the millimetres against the part as I am a metric man
and do you want the 5c as a decal or an impression in the plate - the plate itself is a easy one
I guess I’m for authenticity and would go plate with nails? I think that is how it attaches? Have to confirm with an owner that has it stock.
Quoted from gutz:Spiral nails, like what hold on side rails on ss and alphanumeric pinball machines.[quoted image]
Can you tell what gauge and length those are @gutz?
Quoted from Gundam_Pilot_:There will be a Skill Roll on the free play floor at CLE-Pin this year.
How do you free play 
Quoted from Gundam_Pilot_:There is no freeplay. I set out about $20 of nickels for people to play with. Its an honor system. Do people walk away with nickels? Yeah. But its part of the show experience. I like to bring rare and popular games. So games like Skill Roll, Williams Ringer, Ice Cold Beer, Slugfest, but also rare pins like Capcom Pinball Magic, Alvin G Mystery Castle, Gottlieb Diamond Lady, Have a couple EM arcades in there too like Midway Sea Devil, and Williams Match Race (1 of 4 made).
Either way its all for the show.
I was joking, but figured you'd have to do a bin of nickels. LOVE seeing these types of games at shows! Thank you for bringing them! I remember playing my first Ice Cold Beer at MGC. Only regret was not buying one at such a low price
When you remove the spiral nails and then go to reinstall. Are people filling in those holes with wood filler/toothpics etc so the new nails have something to grip? Or does the spiral nail grip ok using the old hole.
Anyone have good part replacement for the fluorescent tube tombstones/light holder?
This is about as close as I could come, and it will require some bending or spacing
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/172095/CL-10003.html
Quoted from swinks:Thanks for the photos,
it the top rounded part of the plate that is hitting the coin, and the handle attached to the the threaded section?
You are correct
8BAB511E-13F1-434D-A7A5-8DE2398F834F (resized).jpegQuoted from gutz:"Things are now in motion that cannot be undone"[quoted image]
we need more info! are those new handles?
Quoted from gutz:Yes sir. Reproduction handle and shaft prototypes
.......if you need more testers is this one off or for "mass production"?
Quoted from swinks:here is the art for the coin plate
still needs to be sized, and just now need to find out if you want me to make it available on shapeways with the house and 5c recessed into the design - I know this isn't authentic but the best I can do ??? let me know
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Oh I’m fine with a recreation however as the one I have available is not near that, just a red 5c.
If it was flat a vinyl could be made, if imprinted it could be painted.... I’ve never seen one in person, so I’m not sure how it was done originally.
Quoted from gutz:Depends on the final cost the machinists gives me
I was just looking into this today! Was looking at the shapeways model then powder coating or plating, or having some cnc’d. I was thinking of running up to a shop local and seeing what they could cnc. I heard they had a 3d scanner to, so if I could get the coin entry cad file or to borrow, could get those made too?
Those look nice and shiny! I’ll have to figure out how to get that plate at the bottom too. That may be some highly polished scrap or something I find.
Did anyone figure out the twist nail size? Is it pretty much the same as a pinball side armor or gottlieb cab?
Quoted from ryan1234:Here is what mine looks like- and I am sure it is original- A little different font (they could have made many variations.)
It looks painted on (most likely screen printed.) I think a stencil and spray painted would work.
[quoted image]
A vinyl could be cut from like a cricut! but a stencil and paint would be awesome to keep that look. I'm hoping to start cataloging parts, fixes, remakes so that people can get their games up and look as original as they want. If someone has their 5c tag off the game, throw it in a scanner, then we could make a stencil out. ALSO! someone started a bally skill roll on the visual pinball forums, so if we want a better looking virtual skill roll, scanned parts would be fantastic.
I just went to a local cnc/hydro cut shop. They have one of my handles and are going to get me prices on making them. They did say the hardest part that will take the time/money is the two tabs on the inside. They will give me two quotes, one for original and one where they don't do the tabs but make holes and a roll pin to hold it in, which will be significantly cheaper. Also these will be able to be plated or powder coated if you want the "chrome" look. I'm glad the shapeways one is there, but I didn't like the print lines. I'm not a metal worker, so not sure what type of work is required to buff those out, then get it plated.
Quoted from ryan1234:Cricut also cuts stencils - you just Remove the part you cut.
We do it all the time and it works great.
AAHHHH my wife has one, but obviously has never used it. So I didn't know what kind of paper/vinyl they could cut/make! This is awesome!
Quoted from gutz:Mine are aluminum handles and steel shafts, connected by a roll pin. They won't work with factory handles or shafts, and will have to be replaced together. The top handle has been polished, the bottom is raw aluminum.[quoted image]
Holy moly, that polished one is AWESOME. Umm probably a good idea on the new shaft too, also cuts out the security screw. Well keep us posted! I need all new handles and it would be great to have options for others too!
Quoted from ryan1234:My wife is a Cricut wizard.
They make a removable vinyl that we use for stencils. Create and cut vinyl, remove areas to be painted, apply transfer tape to top of vinyl- this keeps everything aligned, remove vinyl backing and stick on project surface. Remove transfer tape and paint. There are probably a hundred videos on it. Cricuts are very popular.
Which is why I bought her one..... I may end up using it more than her do you have a link to that removable vinyl? or is it pretty common removable vinyl?
I'm gonna get this old cricut out and see what thing thing can do. My wife was bugging me about the NEW one as it does "more"....I may end up getting it if it makes this easier
Quoted from tstone:Check my post #54 in this thread for ideas how to get levers/switches working. I had a few that wouldn't spring back right.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-skill-roll/page/2#post-4740298
great tips!
The weather is so bad here with rain and busy with work, I haven’t been able to bring my game home from work!
My plexi pf cover came in the mail though!
Quoted from cait001:Thanks, Mopar! I'm going to get your decal and order a fresh cut of glass locally.
Do we know what size glass has to be cut to fit? Also does it need a beveled edge?
Quoted from gutz:3/16" tempered glass, 20-3/4" x 31-3/4" no logo/bug/stamp.
Awesome! Thanks gutz, need to add this info to my sheet...
Quoted from dudah:I like it! I figure the coin flicking mechanisms will be the hardest thing to make. Can't think of any comparable thing I could modify so will likely have to build from scratch.
Gutz and I both are in progress of handle and shaft repros, but the spring and metal in the game would need a repro
Quoted from per3per3:Did you get the Plexi sheet from eBay? Curious as mine isn't bad but I considered getting a new one. I didn't as someone locally got one and stated they had to modify it a fair amount to get it to fit / line up properly.
What was your experience?
I did, it is the same guy from Klov I think?, and I got it off him directly from klov.
It lined up 99% for screw holes. I had to open up 1 hole more to match the pf. Mine was pretty beat and even with some small modifications, it is nice having a clear sheet.
Quoted from vdojaq:Mine was stuck too. I took a piece of 2 x 4 and went around the entire frame of the cabinet laying the piece of wood flush with the cabinet and tapping on the 2 x 4 with a rubber mallet. Once around the entire frame/cabinet and the glass popped loose. It's just the grain of the old wooden cabinet swelling a bit.
My original plexi was feeling stuck as well before I finally got it out. Good idea on the tapping
Quoted from tstone:My own experience with the plastic bezel:
I had to make several modifications to the one from ebay to make it fit mine, including trimming the entire length and width about 1/16", which wasn't easy or fun. I laid the original right over the replacement and they were obviously not the same.
I had to do it because my existing plastic bezel was badly cracked...I personally wouldn't replace it again if my original was in decent shape.
I suppose the originals had some slight variations...so YMMV!
Looking at the PF, it looks like they may of used a template, but we all know even pinball isn't 100% accurate between pf's. I can for sure see the holes being slightly off.
Mine was pretty darn close. With holding the plexi i could get all but 1 screw in without widening out a hole. I did not lay mine on top of each other, but I suppose I still could. Even with modification, I'm glad this plexi is available. The only other option is to have someone local copy and cnc your plexi, but idk anyone local to me doing that kind of stuff. This is one of those rare/odd games and any parts are good parts haha. Mine is missing so much that I'm having to create parts like the coin acceptor....
Quoted from animesuperj:Quick question - what does this switch do inside the coin door? I've flipped it while the game is on and it doesn't seem to do anything.[quoted image]
game is on, or while a game is running?
Is that a slam switch, or one of the anti cheat switch? weird Probably have to trace the wire back to see which switch it is on the schematic.
Quoted from gutz:Those aren't in the factory spot, but they are easier to read from there if you are the operator!
I think there are some on the rear door panel as well.....
Any body know bulb voltage and size? I'd like to order some warm white leds to swap in .
Quoted from northvibe:what bulbs are used behind the glass? (not the florescent)
I count If my bulbs are correct that were left
21 x 47 (bulb had 47 11 on it I think)
3 x 455[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-skill-roll/page/10#post-5619986
Quoted from PBEarwood:I just installed non ghosting leds from Comet along with their fast blinking. Don't mind the missing levers, currently cleaning them.
[quoted image]
Ah, thanks! so the standard 47 and 455 led's work just fine. good to know! Now I can put my led and glass order in.
I have two sets of fluorescent tombstones that fit perfect into the skill roll. Just have to cut and splice the new wires in.
Anyone interested in them? Thinking $15 shipped in the US. Shipping and packaging is killing the price :/ I’ll do usps padded envelope default. Otherwise I can do a small box and fedex if requested depending on cost.
47C08ECC-D1A4-4FC0-BC51-48196ECE476E (resized).jpeg57CDFE98-D56B-4367-9D44-6F9003175B87 (resized).jpegA86B305C-F4E1-44F0-840B-FCE0D3037998 (resized).jpegE1E84132-819A-453E-96B6-E05F7D6A15E4 (resized).jpegF64FCBA3-2ED0-4942-A90D-E97296C80FFB (resized).jpeghas anyone replaced the light bulb sockets on their skill roll? Mine obviously are old and pretty lose but so deep it is kind of a pita to get the bulbs in and out.
EDIT:
this was my thought to a replacement socket
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-staple-down-mounting-bracket.html
077-5000-00_2_300x300 (resized).jpgQuoted from northvibe:I have two sets of fluorescent tombstones that fit perfect into the skill roll. Just have to cut and splice the new wires in.
Anyone interested in them? Thinking $15 shipped in the US. Shipping and packaging is killing the price :/ I’ll do usps padded envelope default. Otherwise I can do a small box and fedex if requested depending on cost.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Both sets sold
Quoted from slochar:Yes, I think I even used the socket you linked. The original sockets were really crap. It was a PITA but you only have to do it once.
ugh these originals are CRAP. I was hoping the light board could be removed for easy replacement.... I thought wrong
Almost thinking putting a molex plug/connector on that harness so you can cut it, remove, replace sockets, then add the connector would be pretty helpful even though it may never need to be done again.
It is that, or clean out each socket, bend them so they are more snug and hope they work....
Quoted from BlackCatBone:Can someone suggest a replacement fuse holder for Skill-Roll?
If it is the fuse holder(s)/block that is near the transformer and what I'm thinking. it is just 4 of these.
Quoted from BlackCatBone:I don't think I understood what you were telling me. It looks like the holder for the game's 4 fuses needs to be replaced. (My Skill-Roll works, but one of the 4 fuses in my game is missing because an operator used a jumper wire to connect the 50 and 90-1 fuse holders on the circuit that feeds the fluorescent tube.) I was wondering if someone who has replaced the fuse block (the holder for the 4 fuses) in their Skill-Roll could tell me which product they used. I've never had to replace a fuse holder before. Thanks.
What you describe is exactly what mine is. And the product I meant to post but looks like I didn’t paste the link
https://www.pinballlife.com/fuse-holderblock-for-1-14-fuses.html
You need 4 of those which will replace your fuse block. As for the fuses, I’d have to look at the schematic
Quoted from Don_C:I am halfway thru unsoldering the old sockets and replacing them with new. Pinball life. Super tedious!
Don C.
are you using an upholstery stapler to attach?
However someone mentioned using two nickels to make one or a couple of the lower shots easier.
Edit: since two nickels would be on a shot, it wouldn’t send as much force to the 2nd nickel thus allowing the higher point shot to be made with as much skill.
Quoted from Don_C:That would be best, but no got. I'll kludge something up when I get to reassembly.
Don C
If you remove the board you’ll be able to get to them, but you’ll be tied up near the game. One thought of mine was to cut the harness and make it a plug able via molex connectors. Or buy a furniture staple gun and just be able to reach....
Quoted from 6t8fbirds:Hi, I am new to pinside and am needing some help with my Skill Roll machine. It was missing the top header board above front glass and coin box. Could someone give them the length, width, and thickness of the header board? What type of wood should the header board be? Could someone give me the length, width, and height of the coin box as well as some pictures so I can try and duplicate it the best I can. Thank, Rustin
My top wood header and coin box are missing as well. Someone (before me) fabbed a new header and it looks like oak? and the grain doesn't match the rest of the frame. could be maple.
Quoted from edward472:My money is on douglas fir.
Really? Sounds like a hallmark movie
Quoted from BlackCatBone:I think the wood rails are made of fir or pine, soft woods with a closed grain.
Huh, never thought of pine. Has a nice cherry stain. I should take pics of my poor repro that came with
I’ll snap a pic of my top header part tonight.
Last night and this am, I spent installing new bulb sockets. The cheap $50 amazon upholstery nailer worked pretty well. The 2” nose is almost necessary
124DEB80-6C8E-46D8-A182-67070C17C5AB (resized).jpeg
EDIT:
Is anyone interested in the stock bulb sockets?
Quoted from tstone:I took a look at mine. The wood is definitely not oak.
Probably pine or fir.
oh nice. should make it easier/cheaper to replicate/source then.
Quoted from dudah:Can anyone provide some dimensions/sketches/photos of the coin acceptor on top? I'm looking to model up a reproduction for 3d printing/milling for my remake project. Thanks in advance!
Quoted from edward472:I can get you what you need tomorrow. PM with what exactly you need
My game is missing the coin acceptor. I was hoping a owner could 3D model or something so we can reproduce. My solution is a Chinese coin acceptor rhat I’ve had to cut and grind a ton on to fit but it isn’t perfect :/ I’d love a better coin acceptor!
What kind of feet or things are on the bottom of the game? I’ll sort of find out soon, I have to remove the glass to re-clean the pf and with a low ceiling I’ll have to tip it on its back. But while it’s laid down I’d like to make sure I have the correct feet/adjust pads
Here are the tnut's that have screw holes
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-Zinc-Plated-Standard-SAE-Brad-Hole-Tee-Nut/3012553
The leg levelers look like pinball ones. I have tile floor and the arcade games are harder to see the feet so maybe use the leg levelers with the nylon on the bottom?
Found the tee nuts at mendards. I have the legs on order and I'll snag these tee nuts
https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/fasteners-connectors/nuts/tee-nuts/midwest-fastener-reg-3-8-16-zinc-brad-hole-tee-nut-1-count/80437/p-1444440003173-c-8925.htm
Quoted from Trizel:Did you or can you tell us what sockets you used and what do you think of the final result?
I used these sockets. Pretty much a direct replacement. Just had to solder and staple
Quoted from Trizel:I got these legs but they definitely have to be cut just FYI for future people.
Remember how much you had to cut? I still have to install my feet :/
Ok, so finally getting my skill roll working.
When you drop a nickel in. The reels go, but what should the game be doing?
I'm going to clean all the switches and then start troubleshooting. Not sure if the manual states how it should function?
Gutz had a repro shaft and handle done. I have them on my game. They are raw but if you sand/polish they go chrome/shiny 
I have only polished 1 super fast and haven’t spent time yet to get them going. Need to get too many house things done. But they are a nice handle for sure
Quoted from tstone:Ah, that's right. Gutz made the repro handles and shafts. If I recall correctly, his handles don't work with the original shafts, so if you care about that for some reason, the other handles I linked would be better.
Some of my thoughts on the ebay machine for anyone thinking about buying it:
If I bought the ebay machine I'd replace with all 8 of the same type handle so they look the same, probably those from Gutz. Then sell the originals.
The plastic bezel is destroyed. The guy does mention it in his listing.
It is missing a big piece on the lower right, and it looks like someone might have put a screw through it between "start" and "10", cracking it, and possibly damaging the playfield.
The guy who repro-ed these said he is out and probably won't be making more, so this may be unobtanium.
It's possible it's the front glass that is broken on the lower right. In either case, the front glass and the plastic bezel really both need replacement because the marquee/front glass looks like an older repro which doesn't look very nice to me.
The scoring is obviously not working, since there is a nickel on the 3rd row and the score is 10. This is expected, though. Need to clean the steppers. I had the same issue, jeffc helped me with mine.
Some of the scoring lever/switches are badly out of adjustment. Again, this is expected. Need to clean the steppers. I had the same issue, jeffc helped me with mine (the last "10" and the 4th "50", for instance).
The paint is the biggest issue. Have to disassemble the machine, strip, and find a way to repaint it. Getting the original look and texture would require great skill I don't have.
I'd love to see someone return this one to it's former glory, but it looks like a pretty big project.
Just my thoughts!
I just asked the guy, can't believe I forgot his name, about making more bezels and he said he'd want 10 orders to make a run.
Correct, gutz's, handles come with new shafts as there is no screw on the face of the handle. The handle on shapeways keeps the orginal look/attachment.
Quoted from Shawn1976:Lol.
It’s Shawn.
hahah, thank you Shawn....I definitely didn't want to say the wrong name...
Quoted from Trizel:I realize it's a subjective question but what is everyone go to flourecent tube color for for the game.
I think mine was warm, but now I don't remember
Quoted from brobra:Did the auction end early? I’ve never been a huge fan of eBay bids anyway since the platform and methodology are highly vulnerable to insider collusion (bid baiting
Naw, he sold all his games until completion via the bid method
Quoted from brobra:Prices are on the up on these things.
My gut would tell me if he can get it for 400; go for it, and invest the money and time to make it nice.
400?? Man a broken one just sold on eBay in MN for almost a grand usd. At this point, broken ones under 1k are okay i guess. Refurbed and working they go for 3k ish
I did the cpr glass, I don’t have an original to compare but looks great to me. It is “expensive” though.
Quoted from Mopar:Because I used the same original sheet of glass, this glass cost me $50.00
Others that used this decal stated that it comes out the best that they've
seen. This isn't a sales pitch. I don't make 1 cent off this. $50.00 is my cost.
Not everybody is rich. It would be much easier for me if I didn't post this,
but I can't see spending $300.00 on a glass in which 85% has no art work..
No photo, no scanning. This art work was digitized..[quoted image]
What is a sheet of glass cut? $50 ish? Yeah, this is a crazy good deal to get a game back up and looking great.
Quoted from Trizel:Just for reference #s: I recently had glass cut for BSR at my local glass dealer and it was 30$.
Is that tempered with the rounded edges?
Quoted from ryan1234:DO NOT pay extra for “rounded edges” when buying tempered glass- the edges have to be smooth to go through the tempering process- they will round edges whether you pay for it or not.
Oh, good to know. I’ve never had glass cut but thought about asking some local companies about cutting some for pinball
Quoted from slochar:You're missing a metal plate that coil should look similar to an EM relay. The plate has a rod attached to it that pulls in allowing coins to pass through the coin mech into the actuation switch.
Since it's missing nothing should really be affected by this and that coil is a continuous duty, so it should be able to fire and hold without popping the fuse or the transistor that drives it (unless it is shorted.)
Since you're missing most of the guts of it anyway you can remove the feed wires to it and cap them off.
Yeah, I put a coin mech in and kept hearing a buzz. I thought it sounded too loud vs a flurecent tube and low and behold it was this coil. I'll probably do that and disconnect and cap (with a note), but leave the coin mech in so the nickel drops correctly. Thank you!
Quoted from gutz:No need to disconnect/cap wires. Just remove the two position plug on the backside of the playfield.
Nice, just did that, thanks!
two part question here.
The ends of wires are old and oxidized, solder isn't sticking well, do you rub them with naptha or isopro alcohol to clean them up ? I'd rather not cut/trim and strip as there isn't much slack.
This wire is hanging off my score unit and i'm trying to find the wire on the schematics, it is "all black" from what I can see and I don't see an all black on a switch/disc on the schematics but I also suck at EM stuff. Thoughts?
IMG_1123 (resized).jpegIMG_1124 (resized).jpegQuoted from edward472:First question, sand it. The wire has oxidized that's why the solder isn't sticking.
Second question, how many wires are coming off the coil on that stepper. There should be 2 black wires and and orange wire coming off of it
it almost looks like the wire came off the switch... Here i'll take some more pictures.
EDIT: pics added
IMG_1125 (resized).jpegIMG_1126 (resized).jpegIMG_1127 (resized).jpegIMG_1128 (resized).jpegQuoted from Shawn1976:What type of soldering iron are you using?
Might not be getting hot enough.
I know that old solder needs a large amount of heat to liquify.
hakko solder station, 750 degrees, the solder melts, the wire won't tin, i'll try doing some sanding.
Quoted from BlackCatBone:For those who have never seen HanaHo's 1998 remake of Bally's Skill-Roll, here's a link to it on Pinterest. HanaHo was a California company that made a few games. The company was founded by guys named Hana and Ho, thus the name. Anyone ever seen and played this game?
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/485825878562132316/
Link to the two pictures
http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/skillshot.htm
Quoted from Shawn1976:What site is it on?
Can’t seem to find the listing.
Facebook market, but you usually have to put a location near the PA city listed so it pulls from that location instead of your local location
Quoted from AlexF:My daughters boyfriend has enjoyed trying to beat my Skill Roll (light the star). He's gotten close. She will usually try a few times too if he starts in on it. They are in their early 20s and never play the pins. Although those are old too. I guess what I am trying to say is Skill Roll will probably be popular forever.
do you make him use his own nickels? :-p
Quoted from gutz:And if you need new t nuts, lowes has a nice option that mounts with screws (rather than the pound in teeth type).
Do you by chance know which one at lowes?
https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=tee+nut
Quoted from northvibe:Found the tee nuts at mendards. I have the legs on order and I'll snag these tee nuts
https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/fasteners-connectors/nuts/tee-nuts/midwest-fastener-reg-3-8-16-zinc-brad-hole-tee-nut-1-count/80437/p-1444440003173-c-8925.htm
These are not it....I went to menards and they were 3/8 diameter, not the threaded hole....menards only carried the tiny ones or the pound in style. I see home depot and lowes may have ones that will fit, but HD is ship only, none in store, so I can't bring mine to check... I'll keep looking.
EDIT
this is what I've found so far that could fit. 1-1/4" base with 3/8 16 thread "threaded"
mcmaster carr
1-1/4" https://www.mcmaster.com/90611A119/
Quoted from Trizel:Ok guys I reached out to have custom playfield springs made to match the originals for the playfield handles. The compression and extension springs. However I need to order 40 or each spring type to get the price reasonable which is still high. I don't really want to do that unless I can sell them. 40 of each would be enough for 5 games. Is anyone interested in a full 8 set or single sets? I am thinking 80$ shipped CONUS for 8 sets whis is 1 compression and extension for each handle. This is cost I'm losing money on shipping even, Let me know. Price goes down if I can order more. Single sets will not be a division of 8.
I would be down for 1 set for the game. Thanks for doing this! I'll just put it in the coin box and have spares for when they are needed
Quoted from northvibe:Do you by chance know which one at lowes?
https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=tee+nutThese are not it....I went to menards and they were 3/8 diameter, not the threaded hole....menards only carried the tiny ones or the pound in style. I see home depot and lowes may have ones that will fit, but HD is ship only, none in store, so I can't bring mine to check... I'll keep looking.
EDIT
this is what I've found so far that could fit. 1-1/4" base with 3/8 16 thread "threaded"
mcmaster carr
1-1/4" https://www.mcmaster.com/90611A119/
PBR has these: they must be for wood rail games? the disc diameter looks to be ~1" so maybe not wide enough, but close.
http://www.pbresource.com/gtbsd/leg-plate.jpg
Leg-Plate
3/8 X 16 Insert for Wood Legs
Quoted from Trizel:All springs have been claimed. If anyone backs out I'll post here.
woot woot!
New feet and leg nuts
1C21DA14-0F9A-4794-A4AE-6292C0A999ED (resized).jpeg1EDA43F8-AD49-4F7C-9638-8FA4B0236956 (resized).jpeg95D58C32-54E3-4CF2-9856-8E61A1B5FB7E (resized).jpeg9DAAFEF8-B370-4D16-831E-6C5CC086C74B (resized).jpegBE1418C0-5A77-465C-AB2D-F63606CEC0C2 (resized).jpegF512AA3C-8366-4F9C-A6C0-406A92E6C47B (resized).jpegF512D3E9-2EE7-4499-AC63-019213B1B366 (resized).jpegQuoted from Trizel:Looks good!!, did you go with this option you mentioned before? Did you have to cut the feet?
yup, the mcmaster-carr's, I got a 10pack, so I have 6 left over if anyone wants them I can split it...shipping was as much or more than the pack alone :/
I also got the feet with nylon on the bottom as I have a tile floor, I cut them down to maybe 2-1.5" and they fit after making sure the threads were good from the cut. need to level the game, but it is still standing alone until in the corner until I get time again.
EDIT: leg nuts are gone
Quoted from gutz:Before cutting, thread a nut onto the keep side of the cut. Then back the nut off after making the cut to straighten out the thread.
OH man, didn't even think of that. haha, good trick. I'll have to remember that for all the next threaded cuts.
Feet are nice on the tile floor 
I'll have to find a wrench to level and leave it in the coin box.
Quoted from Trizel:Damn this looks good [quoted image]
All I can see is xzibit asking to put a spring inside a sping, yo.
Looks great!
Quoted from per3per3:For those of you that have LED'd your Skill Roll...which bulbs did you go with?
coin taker frosted warm white - they are as close to incandescent I personally like. Yes, I tested all the others, everyone says, didn't like them. CT's go in all my stuff, unless its flipped, then it's comet or ebay.
https://cointaker.com/products/44-47-frosted
I did not convert the fluorescent to led, that stayed original with new parts.
Quoted from Trizel:I'll get everyone tracking numbers asap but springs have been mailed.
woot woot! They look so nice!
Quoted from Trizel:Love it or hate it mod I completed today.
I like those. I’d need to add them as well to play at night.
Quoted from pinhead52:Here is my painting using Duplicolor grey and white trunk splatter (spray) paint.
I worked with da Pimp to get stencils made from dudah seed files, they should show up today.[quoted image][quoted image]
Wait, pinball pimp stencils? We may finally have stencils for skill roll available to buy?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:Don't know if this was posted before or not.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/skill-roll/
That's what I got for my skill roll. Looks nice!
Quoted from pinhead52:Has anybody found a replacement for the anti-cheat coil? Steve at PBR couldnt help. The game above, the coil is getting quite loud.
Is this the one at the coin mech?
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:It’s the one at the top of the stack on the back door panel.[quoted image]
Ohhhh that one. Ok, thanks
Oh man, doing the stencils and paint would be sweet.
Are there brands and color codes we can save for anyone doing the paint?
Quoted from RustyLizard:13th try after aetting it up.
[quoted image]
What were your points?
Nice flicking
I will also say if the bushing/mech/spring of the handles are gummed up and not clean they may not move or move like crap.
Quoted from shlockdoc:Who sells repro handles?
Trizel, gutz and shapeways
Quoted from edward472:Yep. He had some made. I bought them
Heck ya me too
Quoted from DudebroWTF:I have not sold my Skill Roll yet. I think I will be posting it on ebay next week.
And to provide some non-sale content in this thread. My Skill Roll was missing the original coin chute cover panel. At some point, someone double sided taped a piece of plywood in there. luckily I was able to remove that with no trace. I designed and had an exact replica made using pre-galv steel (also like the original). If anyone needs one, I could probably have some more made.
[quoted image][quoted image]
If you end up making some, I’ll take one. I’m missing mine
image (resized).jpgQuoted from DudebroWTF:My Skill Roll was picked up yesterday. Last call to message me on the coin chute. Chances are this is a once in a lifetime opportunity! jeffc contacted me but I haven't heard from northvibe
Oh! I’ll message you
I swear someone sent me info about the coin box size. Need to get one made.. anyone make one? Just have a sheet metal company bend it?
Quoted from jeffc:Got my catch pan installed. Great fit DudebroWTF
[quoted image]
Mine fit great too!
Quoted from ZooDude:Where is that listed? Can you send a link?
FB marketplace. you'll need to change your location to austin texas and then find it.
Quoted from Trizel:New parts going to new homes.
8 steel handles and 1 coin taker[quoted image][quoted image]
woot woot! More skill rolls being made whole!
Quoted from G35R6:Can anyone confirm this?
I went to check out their website and the ad specifically says theirs is not a decal.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/skill-roll/
seem silk screened? when I got mine.
Quoted from BeachPickle:It is not a decal. CPR digitally prints these glasses. I’ve been incredibly unimpressed with the two CPR skill roll glasses I’ve received. I believe I posted earlier in the thread outlining the issues. Others seem to have lucked out with them though, so who knows?
oh ya, there were print lines in someones, yours? on the cpr.
I had found new tombstones and refit the original fluorescent
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-skill-roll/page/11#post-5631072
Quoted from ZooDude:Ok, looks like we've got to call out Shawn 76 about the bezels, I got 2 DMs about this bezel after I posted this that none of these bezels work, they are off, way off, no starting from the middle or massaging them will make them work, the holes are 1/2" off all around and are drilled from the wrong side. Do not buy.
Shawn76 should refund all$ as this is a defective product.
B
I wouldn't say none. Mine worked, I think only one or a few holes had to be redone or adjusted. I'd have to find my post in this thread to confirm. But if there is an issue, talking to shawn should be step 1 for sure.
Quoted from ZooDude:Having to redo holes? That means it did not work.
I'm talking to Shawn, here now on this forum in public, what's the problem? He sold this on this forum in public, so I'm calling him out.
B
A few holes, I think is acceptable since every single game will be a touch different. These were hand made and even with a jig they could be off. Back when I got mine it seemed like there were some that fit perfect and some had a few hole alignment issues. However if the entire thing is off, then sure, I agree that is a big issue.
However posting a post to someone that is not on pinside much is not really reaching out. That is calling out. Have you actually contacted him?
Quoted from ZooDude:I would have let it slide if I hadn't been contacted by several other people stating that he had been made aware of the problems, I make things with jigs, never seen that much variation, this was a known defect, that really gets me.
Every hole on mine is off my 1/8"-1/2' I would have to re drill every hole. Whatever I'll have one made. I just get pissed when I hear about other people getting ripped off and don't suffer fools.
It's one thing if you don't know there's problems another entirely when you know and continue to sell.
I told him I wanted my $ back, don't really care what he has to say, want to prevent others from making the same mistake.
I think that's fair.
B
All I am asking is if you contacted shawn first to see if he can remedy the situation. You now say you told him you want your money back, but that is not a conversation. Have you had a conversation with him about this?
Having the conversation to remedy the issue is entirely different than posting a "call out" on a forum that he may never see. I understand the "warn other buyers" but your experience has not matched EVERY buyer. However this last run was all off, then there is an issue on his end for the fab process. Just because you said you want your money back does not tell anyone if shawn has tried to fix the issue, has acknowledged the issue or seen the issue. If shawn has not responded to email/direct messages, I can understand the frustration but man to go on a witch hunt without getting communication....and that is my last post about this.
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