(Topic ID: 145464)

Bally Skill Roll

By bigduke6

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,364 posts
  • 108 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 31 hours ago by cait001
  • Topic is favorited by 47 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

SkillrollBG2 (resized).jpg
SkillrollBG1 (resized).jpg
IMG_20240203_172631362 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_5137 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5138 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5139 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5140 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5141 (resized).jpeg
Capture (resized).JPG
IMG_3896 (resized).jpeg
20240114_103307 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
There are 1,364 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 28.
#351 4 years ago

I wonder how many are still on route? I hear a lot of stories about people knowing of one at a bar somewhere in Wisconsin. Of course it could be the same one?

#352 4 years ago

So tragic.....

Quoted from gutz:

I have heard for pinball machines the estimate is half of remaining machines are "lost" every fifteen years. At 1500 skill rolls made 61 years ago, leaves 94 machines (I will be generous and round up) using this estimate. We will likely never know the exact number, but I am confident that well over 1000 of them were hauled to the dump.

#353 4 years ago

I'm wrapping up a bunch of projects currently and am wondering what's next. Would love to take a shot at creating a reproduction Skill Roll! Who can send me documentation, artwork or a Playfield scan? Or just give me access to one around Chicago? I'll also be around Dallas and Orlando in January.

#354 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I'm wrapping up a bunch of projects currently and am wondering what's next. Would love to take a shot at creating a reproduction Skill Roll! Who can send me documentation, artwork or a Playfield scan? Or just give me access to one around Chicago? I'll also be around Dallas and Orlando in January.

If you could essentially recreate that more modern one called skillshot that used quarters then it would be a massive hit on location. People would toss all kinds of money trying to best their own scores, get to the bottom and/or beat their friends scores

#355 4 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

If you could essentially recreate that more modern one called skillshot that used quarters then it would be a massive hit on location. People would toss all kinds of money trying to best their own scores, get to the bottom and/or beat their friends scores

I like it! I figure the coin flicking mechanisms will be the hardest thing to make. Can't think of any comparable thing I could modify so will likely have to build from scratch.

#356 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I like it! I figure the coin flicking mechanisms will be the hardest thing to make. Can't think of any comparable thing I could modify so will likely have to build from scratch.

Gutz and I both are in progress of handle and shaft repros, but the spring and metal in the game would need a repro

#357 4 years ago

in the 70s and 80s Japanese prize/redemption arcades were a hot thing and many of the games there were skill-roll related.
This one sold for 301,000 YEN! (~ $2750 USD)
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t691105433

japanese skill roll 1.jpgjapanese skill roll 1.jpgjapanese skill roll 2.jpgjapanese skill roll 2.jpgjapanese skill roll 3.jpgjapanese skill roll 3.jpgjapanese skill roll 4.jpgjapanese skill roll 4.jpg
4 weeks later
#358 4 years ago

I have worked with a machinist to make reproduction handles and shaft assemblies. The handles are machined aluminum and the shafts are steel. They are connected by a roll pin instead of a gulmite screw. The handle and shaft must be replaced together, as the repro handles and shaft cannot work with a factory handle or factory shaft. These will bolt up to the factory inner handle flicking arm, so your machine needs to have those complete assemblies. The asembled handle/shaft reproductions are available for $50 each and the handle will come with a machined aluminum finish. I will leave the chroming or polishing duties to the buyer. The pictures shown are after the aluminum handles have been polished. The machine on the left is factory, the machine on the right has reproduction handles/shafts. Lead time will likely be 3-4 weeks based on the machinists schedule, and the orders will be batched together to make minimum order sizes. PM if you're interested.

20191127_164636 (resized).jpg20191127_164636 (resized).jpg20191127_164642 (resized).jpg20191127_164642 (resized).jpg20191127_164650 (resized).jpg20191127_164650 (resized).jpg20191117_112321 (resized).jpg20191117_112321 (resized).jpg
#359 4 years ago

Those look sharp.
Great job taking this on for other fellow Skill Roll restorers!

#360 4 years ago

Also, that machine ^^^^ has the reproduction decal that I purchased from mopar.

#361 4 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

I have worked with a machinist to make reproduction handles and shaft assemblies. The handles are machined aluminum and the shafts are steel. They are connected by a roll pin instead of a gulmite screw. The handle and shaft must be replaced together, as the repro handles and shaft cannot work with a factory handle or factory shaft. These will bolt up to the factory inner handle flicking arm, so your machine needs to have those complete assemblies. The asembled handle/shaft reproductions are available for $50 each and the handle will come with a machined aluminum finish. I will leave the chroming or polishing duties to the buyer. The pictures shown are after the aluminum handles have been polished. The machine on the left is factory, the machine on the right has reproduction handles/shafts. Lead time will likely be 3-4 weeks based on the machinists schedule, and the orders will be batched together to make minimum order sizes. PM if you're interested.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You've got 2 Skill Rolls! Some of us don't even have one. Excellent job on the handles though.

2 weeks later
#362 4 years ago

I ended up finding a Gulmite driver, but do not have the screws. I suppose the screws may be harder to find than the driver If anyone has screws to sell, pm me. 1, 2 or all 8. Any amount.
Also, if someone comes across a game where you need a driver (say for instance the game has just 1 or 2 gulmites left, and you wouldn’t mind selling) I could mail out the driver, pay for the screws etc.
Thanks

DDDA9C13-F35C-4ACE-AC41-6C1B766ABCE9 (resized).jpegDDDA9C13-F35C-4ACE-AC41-6C1B766ABCE9 (resized).jpeg
#363 4 years ago

Having an issue with my Skill Roll.
Normally inserting the nickel you can hear the games back mechanics engage and then stop.
You push the nickel across the first set of targets and engage a target, lets say 20, and you hear the two chimes and the back game mechanics and the game normally stops after the that.
When I engage the second set of targets and the nickel passes through the target, lets say 20, I hear the two chimes but instead of the back mechanics stopping, they keep running for say 2 seconds more after the two chimes and then stop.
When I attempt to try to engage the third set of targets, the nickel passes through whatever target I pass the nickel through and nothing happens. No chimes no back mechanics, nothing.
However the fourth set of targets that I try after the third set that did nothing the game registers those targets.
I'm assuming there is a leaf switch somewhere that needs to be adjusted, I'm just not sure where.
Can someone help me out with this?

#364 4 years ago
Quoted from Shawn1976:

Having an issue with my Skill Roll.
Normally inserting the nickel you can hear the games back mechanics engage and then stop.
You push the nickel across the first set of targets and engage a target, lets say 20, and you hear the two chimes and the back game mechanics and the game normally stops after the that.
When I engage the second set of targets and the nickel passes through the target, lets say 20, I hear the two chimes but instead of the back mechanics stopping, they keep running for say 2 seconds more after the two chimes and then stop.
When I attempt to try to engage the third set of targets, the nickel passes through whatever target I pass the nickel through and nothing happens. No chimes no back mechanics, nothing.
However the fourth set of targets that I try after the third set that did nothing the game registers those targets.
I'm assuming there is a leaf switch somewhere that needs to be adjusted, I'm just not sure where.
Can someone help me out with this?

Are any switches stuck closed on the third row? Does the machine score points immediately after row 2 scoring is done, during the extra revolution of the score motor? If so, that is the stuck switch on the third row.

The row count unit only allows one row to be active at a time. The row count advance is pulsed once at the end of the sequence motor revolution. After scoring, the motor does one revolution and advances the unit to the next row. It sounds like row 1 is scoring fine then advancing to row 2, but after scoring on row 2 if the motor rotates twice it must think you scored on row 3 and has advanced the row unit to 4 (again - any stuck switches - look at the leafs inside and not the levers). The machine now thinks you are on the active row 4, but your nickel is on 3 and the switches won't score because it isn't the active row. Now the nickel and the row counter are on row 4 and the scoring is normal.

#365 4 years ago

Checked all of the switches and nothing looks to be touching.
Also which I didn’t mention in the previous post is the issue happens on different rows at different times.
I could go through 3 or 4 games before it happens and it could happen on the first row, then the fourth then the sixth.

Quoted from gutz:

Are any switches stuck closed on the third row? Does the machine score points immediately after row 2 scoring is done, during the extra revolution of the score motor? If so, that is the stuck switch on the third row.
The row count unit only allows one row to be active at a time. The row count advance is pulsed once at the end of the sequence motor revolution. After scoring, the motor does one revolution and advances the unit to the next row. It sounds like row 1 is scoring fine then advancing to row 2, but after scoring on row 2 if the motor rotates twice it must think you scored on row 3 and has advanced the row unit to 4 (again - any stuck switches - look at the leafs inside and not the levers). The machine now thinks you are on the active row 4, but your nickel is on 3 and the switches won't score because it isn't the active row. Now the nickel and the row counter are on row 4 and the scoring is normal.

#366 4 years ago
Quoted from Shawn1976:

Checked all of the switches and nothing looks to be touching.
Also which I didn’t mention in the previous post is the issue happens on different rows at different times.
I could go through 3 or 4 games before it happens and it could happen on the first row, then the fourth then the sixth.

I posted some videos that might be helpful in trouble shooting and figuring out the game mechanics:

General mechanics:

Sequence motor:

#367 4 years ago
Quoted from Shawn1976:

Checked all of the switches and nothing looks to be touching.
Also which I didn’t mention in the previous post is the issue happens on different rows at different times.
I could go through 3 or 4 games before it happens and it could happen on the first row, then the fourth then the sixth.

Hmmm. Does the motor always 'over run' each time the issue happens? If so, check the switch on the metal cam nearest to the motor. Once the motor starts (from the playfield switches and pt relays) the motor stays running because that first cam switch is held closed. Once it opens up (notch in the cam) the motor should stop. If that switch isn't opening every time, it might run the motor an extra revolution and be screwing up your row counter.

#368 4 years ago
Quoted from presqueisle:

I ended up finding a Gulmite driver, but do not have the screws. I suppose the screws may be harder to find than the driver If anyone has screws to sell, pm me. 1, 2 or all 8. Any amount.
Also, if someone comes across a game where you need a driver (say for instance the game has just 1 or 2 gulmites left, and you wouldn’t mind selling) I could mail out the driver, pay for the screws etc.
Thanks[quoted image]

There are gulmite screws on ebay that you could cut down in length. They look like a different finish though.

#369 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I like it! I figure the coin flicking mechanisms will be the hardest thing to make. Can't think of any comparable thing I could modify so will likely have to build from scratch.

Some older flip style games from Planet Earth. They have a moving handle "gun" like that will flip the coins.

#370 4 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

If that switch isn't opening every time, it might run the motor an extra revolution and be screwing up your row counter.

Yup, this was my first thought, but thinking it only happened after the 2nd nickel shot, that
didn't add up. But now, the Score Motor's run-out switch might be just a little too close together
and although when suppose to open it may still sometimes be slightly touching..
I also thought maybe the Score Motor's armature may be sticky and not releasing once the motor's
circuit is cut, but after checking my Skill Roll, I see that it doesn't have an armature that pulls away
like many other motors have from that era..
When facing the motor, the run-out switch on the far right (outside switch) may need a little more
gap when opened..

#371 4 years ago

I like how the "Promoted Ads" along the bottom of this thread are
Wanted: Skill Roll
Wanted: Skill Roll
Wanted: Skill Roll

#372 4 years ago

Do you happen to have a photo of what particular switch your referring to?
I'm a visual learner...…

Quoted from gutz:

Hmmm. Does the motor always 'over run' each time the issue happens? If so, check the switch on the metal cam nearest to the motor. Once the motor starts (from the playfield switches and pt relays) the motor stays running because that first cam switch is held closed. Once it opens up (notch in the cam) the motor should stop. If that switch isn't opening every time, it might run the motor an extra revolution and be screwing up your row counter.

#373 4 years ago
Quoted from Shawn1976:

Do you happen to have a photo of what particular switch your referring to?
I'm a visual learner...…

Check out the second video I posted, its the single/only switch on the cam closest to the sequence motor. In the video, the door is upside on the workbench. As mopar mentioned, it will be the switch farthest right on the sequence motor and it might need to be adjusted more open. Inspect it first to see if thats the issue, have someone play the game while you watch that switch move open/close. You should also tighten the switch stack screws before adjusting the switch.

#374 4 years ago
Quoted from cait001:

I like how the "Promoted Ads" along the bottom of this thread are
Wanted: Skill Roll
Wanted: Skill Roll
Wanted: Skill Roll

Rub it in, will ya.

#375 4 years ago

Will do.
I’ll report back.

Quoted from gutz:

Check out the second video I posted, its the single/only switch on the cam closest to the sequence motor. In the video, the door is upside on the workbench. As mopar mentioned, it will be the switch farthest right on the sequence motor and it might need to be adjusted more open. Inspect it first to see if thats the issue, have someone play the game while you watch that switch move open/close. You should also tighten the switch stack screws before adjusting the switch.

#376 4 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

There are gulmite screws on ebay that you could cut down in length. They look like a different finish though.

Those are 8s, wrong size head. Thank you though! I appreciate it.

#377 4 years ago

I went to the Pinball Hall of Fame this weekend hoping to see and play one of these. Unfortunately, the one they had is gone. One of the guys working there told me they had to pull it. Too many coins were getting stuck and it was more trouble than it was worth to keep it in rotation

#378 4 years ago

That did it.
That’s y’all.

Quoted from gutz:

Check out the second video I posted, its the single/only switch on the cam closest to the sequence motor. In the video, the door is upside on the workbench. As mopar mentioned, it will be the switch farthest right on the sequence motor and it might need to be adjusted more open. Inspect it first to see if thats the issue, have someone play the game while you watch that switch move open/close. You should also tighten the switch stack screws before adjusting the switch.

#379 4 years ago

Do they sell them if they take it off the floor?

Quoted from edward472:

I went to the Pinball Hall of Fame this weekend hoping to see and play one of these. Unfortunately, the one they had is gone. One of the guys working there told me they had to pull it. Too many coins were getting stuck and it was more trouble than it was worth to keep it in rotation

#380 4 years ago
Quoted from Shawn1976:

Do they sell them if they take it off the floor?

That was the first question out of my mouth, and the answer is no.

#381 4 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

That was the first question out of my mouth, and the answer is no.

That seems like a terrible investment plan

#382 4 years ago

Like the Ark of the Covenant in Raiders of the Lost Ark.....
They’ll box it up and put it in a huge warehouse of other hidden treasures never to be seen again.
Hopefully they’ll have someone fix it and have it out on the floor again.

Quoted from edward472:

That was the first question out of my mouth, and the answer is no.

#383 4 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

I went to the Pinball Hall of Fame this weekend hoping to see and play one of these. Unfortunately, the one they had is gone. One of the guys working there told me they had to pull it. Too many coins were getting stuck and it was more trouble than it was worth to keep it in rotation

I can see that, it's unfortunate really but it can easily happen and does when people don't understand how the game works. One thing you have to be sure of is to have nice, clean and new nickels for the game because old used nickels will get stuck from them having dirt or gum stuck to them or if there gouged in any way. I have a sign on mine that says "only one nickel at a time" but apparently people don't see it and then try and put as many nickels in it as they can and it either jams up the coin mech or it "confuses" the machine when they get more then one nickel in play at the same time. It's amazing and never seizes to amaze me at every party and I always expect the machine to go down several times in a 12 hour period and I'm only lucky if I can fix it during the annual party as it gets very crowded with people and it can take a little time to get it worked out and put back together but I can usually get it within a few minutes...., it just depends.

John

untitled (resized).pnguntitled (resized).png
#384 4 years ago
Quoted from Dayhuff:

I can see that, it's unfortunate really but it can easily happen and does when people don't understand how the game works. One thing you have to be sure of is to have nice, clean and new nickels for the game because old used nickels will get stuck from them having dirt or gum stuck to them or if there gouged in any way. I have a sign on mine that says "only one nickel at a time" but apparently people don't see it and then try and put as many nickels in it as they can and it either jams up the coin mech or it "confuses" the machine when they get more then one nickel in play at the same time. It's amazing and never seizes to amaze me at every party and I always expect the machine to go down several times in a 12 hour period and I'm only lucky if I can fix it during the annual party as it gets very crowded with people and it can take a little time to get it worked out and put back together but I can usually get it within a few minutes...., it just depends.
John[quoted image]

I was bummed, but completely understood. The dream is to own one, but if that doesn't happen I at least wanted to get a few games in on one

#385 4 years ago

Still looking for a skill Roll here comes pinbrew, Texas, pinfest and Pintastic. Happy to pickup.

#386 4 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

I was bummed, but completely understood. The dream is to own one, but if that doesn't happen I at least wanted to get a few games in on one

I hear you. If I can clarify for Tim and Company, they have so many games, It is hard to keep up with everyone. Lots of rare games come and go in that place. Of course, they are in the giant Warehouse as mentioned before. I remember playing Space Walk there a few years ago as well. It has since been replaced with count down.

#387 4 years ago

What a beautiful machine.
I wish my two looked as good as that one.
Jealous...…

Quoted from Dayhuff:

I can see that, it's unfortunate really but it can easily happen and does when people don't understand how the game works. One thing you have to be sure of is to have nice, clean and new nickels for the game because old used nickels will get stuck from them having dirt or gum stuck to them or if there gouged in any way. I have a sign on mine that says "only one nickel at a time" but apparently people don't see it and then try and put as many nickels in it as they can and it either jams up the coin mech or it "confuses" the machine when they get more then one nickel in play at the same time. It's amazing and never seizes to amaze me at every party and I always expect the machine to go down several times in a 12 hour period and I'm only lucky if I can fix it during the annual party as it gets very crowded with people and it can take a little time to get it worked out and put back together but I can usually get it within a few minutes...., it just depends.
John[quoted image]

#388 4 years ago

Still looking for one in the midwest I can take measurements off of.
I'm based out of Chicago but travel regularly for work, coming up is Columbus, Green Bay, and Kansas

#389 4 years ago
Quoted from Shawn1976:

They’ll box it up and put it in a huge warehouse of other hidden treasures never to be seen again.

raiders (resized).pngraiders (resized).png
#390 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Still looking for one in the midwest I can take measurements off of.

Are you saying that you're just looking for a skill roll that you can take measurements from? If so, I have one, but it has been "modified" a bit with wood trim being added by a previous owner. Story I got when I bought it is that the guy owned a bar and wanted the game to match the wood trim in the bar. The link below is to where I posted a couple of pictures of mine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-machine-did-you-bring-home-today-post-your-pictures/page/281#post-5296273

If mine would work, even though it has the trim work done on it, you're welcome to stop by on your way to Green Bay sometime. If you're traveling up I-94 through Milwaukee, I'm about 20 minutes or so off the interstate, south of Milwaukee.

Dave

#391 4 years ago

Man with all the talk lately about the Skill Rolls, and the wanted ad's. Whats a nice one worth these days? Just asking in case I come across another one.

John

IMG_0188 (resized).JPGIMG_0188 (resized).JPG
#392 4 years ago
Quoted from Dayhuff:

Man with all the talk lately about the Skill Rolls, and the wanted ad's. Whats a nice one worth these days? Just asking in case I come across another one.
John[quoted image]

almost impossible to say. None are coming to market and there's a line-up of buyers. If you can find a project for under $1k get it ASAP

#393 4 years ago
Quoted from Dayhuff:

Whats a nice one worth these days?

My friend turned down $3500 for his. I don't blame him, the game is irreplaceable.

#394 4 years ago

I've gotten crazy and offered $3,000, my first born son, and my right nut. Guy passed saying my son was too loud. I've got to talk to the wife about making another quieter child.

#395 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Still looking for one in the midwest I can take measurements off of.
I'm based out of Chicago but travel regularly for work, coming up is Columbus, Green Bay, and Kansas

I'm in Mukwonago, not too far off I-43 (about 15 minutes?). If you're in the area, I don't mind if you want to get some measurements off mine. It's all original and in good shape.

#396 4 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

I've gotten crazy and offered $3,000, my first born son, and my right nut. Guy passed saying my son was too loud. I've got to talk to the wife about making another quieter child.

Haha!!

Solid effort

#397 4 years ago

I'm looking to make a repro flicker mechanism.
Does anybody have any diagrams of the design? Pictures from a teardown/rebuild?
Or are there any DIY replacements people have come up with for broken mechs?
Thanks!

#398 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I'm looking to make a repro flicker mechanism.
Does anybody have any diagrams of the design? Pictures from a teardown/rebuild?
Or are there any DIY replacements people have come up with for broken mechs?
Thanks!

#399 4 years ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

Haha!!
Solid effort

In hindsight, I should have offered more

#400 4 years ago

Just what I was looking for, thanks!

There are 1,364 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 28.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-skill-roll/page/8?hl=rustylizard and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.