(Topic ID: 145464)

Bally Skill Roll


By bigduke6

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 376 posts
  • 70 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by presqueisle
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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There are 376 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.
#351 55 days ago

I wonder how many are still on route? I hear a lot of stories about people knowing of one at a bar somewhere in Wisconsin. Of course it could be the same one?

#352 55 days ago

So tragic.....

Quoted from gutz:

I have heard for pinball machines the estimate is half of remaining machines are "lost" every fifteen years. At 1500 skill rolls made 61 years ago, leaves 94 machines (I will be generous and round up) using this estimate. We will likely never know the exact number, but I am confident that well over 1000 of them were hauled to the dump.

#353 54 days ago

I'm wrapping up a bunch of projects currently and am wondering what's next. Would love to take a shot at creating a reproduction Skill Roll! Who can send me documentation, artwork or a Playfield scan? Or just give me access to one around Chicago? I'll also be around Dallas and Orlando in January.

#354 54 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

I'm wrapping up a bunch of projects currently and am wondering what's next. Would love to take a shot at creating a reproduction Skill Roll! Who can send me documentation, artwork or a Playfield scan? Or just give me access to one around Chicago? I'll also be around Dallas and Orlando in January.

If you could essentially recreate that more modern one called skillshot that used quarters then it would be a massive hit on location. People would toss all kinds of money trying to best their own scores, get to the bottom and/or beat their friends scores

#355 53 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

If you could essentially recreate that more modern one called skillshot that used quarters then it would be a massive hit on location. People would toss all kinds of money trying to best their own scores, get to the bottom and/or beat their friends scores

I like it! I figure the coin flicking mechanisms will be the hardest thing to make. Can't think of any comparable thing I could modify so will likely have to build from scratch.

#356 53 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

I like it! I figure the coin flicking mechanisms will be the hardest thing to make. Can't think of any comparable thing I could modify so will likely have to build from scratch.

Gutz and I both are in progress of handle and shaft repros, but the spring and metal in the game would need a repro

#357 49 days ago

in the 70s and 80s Japanese prize/redemption arcades were a hot thing and many of the games there were skill-roll related.
This one sold for 301,000 YEN! (~ $2750 USD)
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t691105433

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4 weeks later
#358 19 days ago

I have worked with a machinist to make reproduction handles and shaft assemblies. The handles are machined aluminum and the shafts are steel. They are connected by a roll pin instead of a gulmite screw. The handle and shaft must be replaced together, as the repro handles and shaft cannot work with a factory handle or factory shaft. These will bolt up to the factory inner handle flicking arm, so your machine needs to have those complete assemblies. The asembled handle/shaft reproductions are available for $50 each and the handle will come with a machined aluminum finish. I will leave the chroming or polishing duties to the buyer. The pictures shown are after the aluminum handles have been polished. The machine on the left is factory, the machine on the right has reproduction handles/shafts. Lead time will likely be 3-4 weeks based on the machinists schedule, and the orders will be batched together to make minimum order sizes. PM if you're interested.

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#359 19 days ago

Those look sharp.
Great job taking this on for other fellow Skill Roll restorers!

#360 19 days ago

Also, that machine ^^^^ has the reproduction decal that I purchased from mopar.

#361 19 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

I have worked with a machinist to make reproduction handles and shaft assemblies. The handles are machined aluminum and the shafts are steel. They are connected by a roll pin instead of a gulmite screw. The handle and shaft must be replaced together, as the repro handles and shaft cannot work with a factory handle or factory shaft. These will bolt up to the factory inner handle flicking arm, so your machine needs to have those complete assemblies. The asembled handle/shaft reproductions are available for $50 each and the handle will come with a machined aluminum finish. I will leave the chroming or polishing duties to the buyer. The pictures shown are after the aluminum handles have been polished. The machine on the left is factory, the machine on the right has reproduction handles/shafts. Lead time will likely be 3-4 weeks based on the machinists schedule, and the orders will be batched together to make minimum order sizes. PM if you're interested.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You've got 2 Skill Rolls! Some of us don't even have one. Excellent job on the handles though.

2 weeks later
#362 4 days ago

I ended up finding a Gulmite driver, but do not have the screws. I suppose the screws may be harder to find than the driver If anyone has screws to sell, pm me. 1, 2 or all 8. Any amount.
Also, if someone comes across a game where you need a driver (say for instance the game has just 1 or 2 gulmites left, and you wouldn’t mind selling) I could mail out the driver, pay for the screws etc.
Thanks

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#363 3 days ago

Having an issue with my Skill Roll.
Normally inserting the nickel you can hear the games back mechanics engage and then stop.
You push the nickel across the first set of targets and engage a target, lets say 20, and you hear the two chimes and the back game mechanics and the game normally stops after the that.
When I engage the second set of targets and the nickel passes through the target, lets say 20, I hear the two chimes but instead of the back mechanics stopping, they keep running for say 2 seconds more after the two chimes and then stop.
When I attempt to try to engage the third set of targets, the nickel passes through whatever target I pass the nickel through and nothing happens. No chimes no back mechanics, nothing.
However the fourth set of targets that I try after the third set that did nothing the game registers those targets.
I'm assuming there is a leaf switch somewhere that needs to be adjusted, I'm just not sure where.
Can someone help me out with this?

#364 3 days ago
Quoted from Shawn1976:

Having an issue with my Skill Roll.
Normally inserting the nickel you can hear the games back mechanics engage and then stop.
You push the nickel across the first set of targets and engage a target, lets say 20, and you hear the two chimes and the back game mechanics and the game normally stops after the that.
When I engage the second set of targets and the nickel passes through the target, lets say 20, I hear the two chimes but instead of the back mechanics stopping, they keep running for say 2 seconds more after the two chimes and then stop.
When I attempt to try to engage the third set of targets, the nickel passes through whatever target I pass the nickel through and nothing happens. No chimes no back mechanics, nothing.
However the fourth set of targets that I try after the third set that did nothing the game registers those targets.
I'm assuming there is a leaf switch somewhere that needs to be adjusted, I'm just not sure where.
Can someone help me out with this?

Are any switches stuck closed on the third row? Does the machine score points immediately after row 2 scoring is done, during the extra revolution of the score motor? If so, that is the stuck switch on the third row.

The row count unit only allows one row to be active at a time. The row count advance is pulsed once at the end of the sequence motor revolution. After scoring, the motor does one revolution and advances the unit to the next row. It sounds like row 1 is scoring fine then advancing to row 2, but after scoring on row 2 if the motor rotates twice it must think you scored on row 3 and has advanced the row unit to 4 (again - any stuck switches - look at the leafs inside and not the levers). The machine now thinks you are on the active row 4, but your nickel is on 3 and the switches won't score because it isn't the active row. Now the nickel and the row counter are on row 4 and the scoring is normal.

#365 3 days ago

Checked all of the switches and nothing looks to be touching.
Also which I didn’t mention in the previous post is the issue happens on different rows at different times.
I could go through 3 or 4 games before it happens and it could happen on the first row, then the fourth then the sixth.

Quoted from gutz:

Are any switches stuck closed on the third row? Does the machine score points immediately after row 2 scoring is done, during the extra revolution of the score motor? If so, that is the stuck switch on the third row.
The row count unit only allows one row to be active at a time. The row count advance is pulsed once at the end of the sequence motor revolution. After scoring, the motor does one revolution and advances the unit to the next row. It sounds like row 1 is scoring fine then advancing to row 2, but after scoring on row 2 if the motor rotates twice it must think you scored on row 3 and has advanced the row unit to 4 (again - any stuck switches - look at the leafs inside and not the levers). The machine now thinks you are on the active row 4, but your nickel is on 3 and the switches won't score because it isn't the active row. Now the nickel and the row counter are on row 4 and the scoring is normal.

#366 3 days ago
Quoted from Shawn1976:

Checked all of the switches and nothing looks to be touching.
Also which I didn’t mention in the previous post is the issue happens on different rows at different times.
I could go through 3 or 4 games before it happens and it could happen on the first row, then the fourth then the sixth.

I posted some videos that might be helpful in trouble shooting and figuring out the game mechanics:

General mechanics:

Sequence motor:

#367 3 days ago
Quoted from Shawn1976:

Checked all of the switches and nothing looks to be touching.
Also which I didn’t mention in the previous post is the issue happens on different rows at different times.
I could go through 3 or 4 games before it happens and it could happen on the first row, then the fourth then the sixth.

Hmmm. Does the motor always 'over run' each time the issue happens? If so, check the switch on the metal cam nearest to the motor. Once the motor starts (from the playfield switches and pt relays) the motor stays running because that first cam switch is held closed. Once it opens up (notch in the cam) the motor should stop. If that switch isn't opening every time, it might run the motor an extra revolution and be screwing up your row counter.

#368 3 days ago
Quoted from presqueisle:

I ended up finding a Gulmite driver, but do not have the screws. I suppose the screws may be harder to find than the driver If anyone has screws to sell, pm me. 1, 2 or all 8. Any amount.
Also, if someone comes across a game where you need a driver (say for instance the game has just 1 or 2 gulmites left, and you wouldn’t mind selling) I could mail out the driver, pay for the screws etc.
Thanks[quoted image]

There are gulmite screws on ebay that you could cut down in length. They look like a different finish though.

#369 3 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

I like it! I figure the coin flicking mechanisms will be the hardest thing to make. Can't think of any comparable thing I could modify so will likely have to build from scratch.

Some older flip style games from Planet Earth. They have a moving handle "gun" like that will flip the coins.

#370 3 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

If that switch isn't opening every time, it might run the motor an extra revolution and be screwing up your row counter.

Yup, this was my first thought, but thinking it only happened after the 2nd nickel shot, that
didn't add up. But now, the Score Motor's run-out switch might be just a little too close together
and although when suppose to open it may still sometimes be slightly touching..
I also thought maybe the Score Motor's armature may be sticky and not releasing once the motor's
circuit is cut, but after checking my Skill Roll, I see that it doesn't have an armature that pulls away
like many other motors have from that era..
When facing the motor, the run-out switch on the far right (outside switch) may need a little more
gap when opened..

#371 3 days ago

I like how the "Promoted Ads" along the bottom of this thread are
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#372 2 days ago

Do you happen to have a photo of what particular switch your referring to?
I'm a visual learner...…

Quoted from gutz:

Hmmm. Does the motor always 'over run' each time the issue happens? If so, check the switch on the metal cam nearest to the motor. Once the motor starts (from the playfield switches and pt relays) the motor stays running because that first cam switch is held closed. Once it opens up (notch in the cam) the motor should stop. If that switch isn't opening every time, it might run the motor an extra revolution and be screwing up your row counter.

#373 2 days ago
Quoted from Shawn1976:

Do you happen to have a photo of what particular switch your referring to?
I'm a visual learner...…

Check out the second video I posted, its the single/only switch on the cam closest to the sequence motor. In the video, the door is upside on the workbench. As mopar mentioned, it will be the switch farthest right on the sequence motor and it might need to be adjusted more open. Inspect it first to see if thats the issue, have someone play the game while you watch that switch move open/close. You should also tighten the switch stack screws before adjusting the switch.

#374 2 days ago
Quoted from cait001:

I like how the "Promoted Ads" along the bottom of this thread are
Wanted: Skill Roll
Wanted: Skill Roll
Wanted: Skill Roll

Rub it in, will ya.

#375 2 days ago

Will do.
I’ll report back.

Quoted from gutz:

Check out the second video I posted, its the single/only switch on the cam closest to the sequence motor. In the video, the door is upside on the workbench. As mopar mentioned, it will be the switch farthest right on the sequence motor and it might need to be adjusted more open. Inspect it first to see if thats the issue, have someone play the game while you watch that switch move open/close. You should also tighten the switch stack screws before adjusting the switch.

#376 1 day ago
Quoted from gutz:

There are gulmite screws on ebay that you could cut down in length. They look like a different finish though.

Those are 8s, wrong size head. Thank you though! I appreciate it.

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There are 376 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.

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