Quoted from Shawn1976:Lol.
It’s Shawn.
hahah, thank you Shawn....I definitely didn't want to say the wrong name...
(Topic ID: 145464)
Linked Games
Skill Roll
Bally, 1956
Topic Gallery
St. Augustine, FL
No worries.
Quoted from northvibe:hahah, thank you Shawn....I definitely didn't want to say the wrong name...
I realize it's a subjective question but what is everyone go to flourecent tube color for for the game.
Quoted from tstone:There's one on ebay.
Needs a lot of help, but hey...it's available!
ebay.com link
The video of the guy trying to play it is both perversely amusing and hard to watch. It's like one of those hairless dogs.
Auction ending tomorrow morning. $800ish right now. I value it around $1000 given how rough it is but opinions will vary greatly.
Quoted from Trizel:I realize it's a subjective question but what is everyone go to flourecent tube color for for the game.
I think mine was warm, but now I don't remember
Quoted from tstone:The video of the guy trying to play it is both perversely amusing and hard to watch. It's like one of those hairless dogs.
Auction ending tomorrow morning. $800ish right now. I value it around $1000 given how rough it is but opinions will vary greatly.
Sold $900. Not bad
Quoted from cait001:a downright bargain these days
Did the auction end early? I’ve never been a huge fan of eBay bids anyway since the platform and methodology are highly vulnerable to insider collusion (bid baiting
Quoted from brobra:Did the auction end early? I’ve never been a huge fan of eBay bids anyway since the platform and methodology are highly vulnerable to insider collusion (bid baiting
Naw, he sold all his games until completion via the bid method
2 weeks later
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Does anyone sell stencils for these games? Any paint color codes that are exact to original?
I'd be happy to give you my stencil art files. You could get them cut at a sign shop or get ambitious with an inkjet printer. Or if you're near Chicago you can borrow my hardboard stencils.
Utrecht
Quoted from unigroove:A friend of mine is looking at a Skill Roll that has a flaking glass and the wood at the bottom cabinet lloks to be in bad shape. What would be a decent price to pay, considering it needs restoration?
Prices are on the up on these things.
My gut would tell me if he can get it for 400; go for it, and invest the money and time to make it nice.
Quoted from brobra:Prices are on the up on these things.
My gut would tell me if he can get it for 400; go for it, and invest the money and time to make it nice.
400?? Man a broken one just sold on eBay in MN for almost a grand usd. At this point, broken ones under 1k are okay i guess. Refurbed and working they go for 3k ish
Quoted from edward472:Ill take all the $400 skill rolls I can buy.
This made me actually lol.
The range of prices I've seen on eBay in 2020 are $900 to just over $5,000 for a nice example. The back glass is available as a reproduction for under $300, so that's no reason to bypass a Skill-Roll. The $900 Skill-Roll auction had 70+ watchers and about 10 biders, so it was a very desirable game. As others have pointed out, essentially there are no Skill-Roll parts games left. Every surviving game is a restoration candidate due to scarcity and value. If your friend is also in The Netherlands, I'd think that Skill-Roll is almost impossible to find there, so all the more reason to jump on it.
$900 Skill-Roll from eBay (click image to watch seller's YouTube video): https://www.pinterest.com/pin/485825878560323035/
CPR Skill-Roll reproduction back glass: https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/skill-roll/
Quoted from Mopar:This backglass cost me $50.00
I applied the decal on the backside of
the original glass. Comes out just like silk screen..
[quoted image]
Looks nice.
Picked up a Skill Roll! Can’t wait to get into it over the next few weeks. It’s been repainted at some point. I’ll be asking lots of questions here and appreciate any help getting this up and running.
97B53086-C969-4B03-8039-897B7A843147 (resized).jpeg38A88E9A-4B79-4522-9F08-C6431B7079A9 (resized).jpeg8F3B2A0F-7C52-458E-9BBA-F1043DAC6F30 (resized).jpeg6A87F628-EB07-49F1-9B09-85E688326412 (resized).jpegD955CFF7-F779-4926-A03F-31BEF640257C (resized).jpegQuoted from edward472:Nice. Looks like the original paint is still there. Strip that nasty brown paint. CPR glass?
Original glass
Any suggestions on the best way to strip off the brown paint without damaging the original paint?
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Original glass
Any suggestions on the best way to strip off the brown paint without damaging the original paint?
If its latex paint, denatured alcohol will take it off
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Original glass
Any suggestions on the best way to strip off the brown paint without damaging the original paint?
The glass doesn't look original to me.
Here are a few reasons I Say that:
1) The blue horizontal stripes should meet yellow in the center. Yours is completely missing this yellow border around the orange.
2) There should be a blue strip behind the 10,20,30 etc numbers. Yours is missing it.
3) You're also missing the blue outline to the left of the 100 and to the right of the 400.
4) The large red "Bally Skill-Roll" letters in the top right should be outlined in black. Yours does not appear to have this outline. Hard to tell though.
4) The blue stripes on your are too dark.
5) Other than finding a NIB Skill Roll, I think finding a perfect glass is pretty much impossible.
Check the repro glass a couple posts above for reference.
Quoted from tstone:The glass doesn't look original to me.
Here are a few reasons I Say that:
1) The blue horizontal stripes should meet yellow in the center. Yours is completely missing this yellow border around the orange.
2) There should be a blue strip behind the 10,20,30 etc numbers. Yours is missing it.
3) You're also missing the blue outline to the left of the 100 and to the right of the 400.
4) The large red "Bally Skill-Roll" letters in the top right should be outlined in black. Yours does not appear to have this outline. Hard to tell though.
4) The blue stripes on your are too dark.
5) Other than finding a NIB Skill Roll, I think finding a perfect glass is pretty much impossible.
Check the repro glass a couple posts above for reference.
I thought to myself if that was an original back glass it was hands down the nicest I've ever seen
Quoted from tstone:The glass doesn't look original to me.
Here are a few reasons I Say that:
1) The blue horizontal stripes should meet yellow in the center. Yours is completely missing this yellow border around the orange.
2) There should be a blue strip behind the 10,20,30 etc numbers. Yours is missing it.
3) You're also missing the blue outline to the left of the 100 and to the right of the 400.
4) The large red "Bally Skill-Roll" letters in the top right should be outlined in black. Yours does not appear to have this outline. Hard to tell though.
4) The blue stripes on your are too dark.
5) Other than finding a NIB Skill Roll, I think finding a perfect glass is pretty much impossible.
Check the repro glass a couple posts above for reference.
Great information! I don’t know anything about these, so I appreciate the finer points to look for. I’ll get a close up pic and post later. Are you thinking it’s a CPR? Here’s the dirt that was on the outside. Did someone other than CPR make repros at some point?
1CDBA782-16D0-4407-A362-358B5970943C (resized).jpeg6837C277-3EE3-482D-94DC-191C27352BFD (resized).jpegE8AD0462-E486-4815-A473-FDBC34264CB3 (resized).jpegFinally got the lock drilled out to peak inside. It appears to be all intact to my untrained eye.
What should I look for and/or address before plugging it in and turning on?
225D09F0-CF45-4F22-B90C-A5A19ECF0845 (resized).jpegFB441C2A-697C-4CEC-95F8-625C055B810A (resized).jpeg694BA6C2-6A9A-4AE4-81ED-4D8973A60445 (resized).jpeg652AFD15-AAFD-4F82-B64F-64F21DC83DE5 (resized).jpegQuoted from Blitzburgh99:Finally got the lock drilled out to peak inside. It appears to be all intact to my untrained eye.
What should I look for and/or address before plugging it in and turning on?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Check those fuse holders for a start! Replace as needed.
Quoted from stashyboy:Check those fuse holders for a start! Replace as needed.
What size fuse goes in there?
A042DC39-C7FC-4C4C-AA85-E53D89B7A585 (resized).jpegThere are currently 15 pages in this forum filled with great info. My suggestion go through the pages starting with one and gather the info you find valuable. Approach your machine with that knowledge then ask questions.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:What size fuse goes in there?[quoted image]
No fuse goes there
Quoted from Trizel:There are currently 15 pages in this forum filled with great info. My suggestion go through the pages starting with one and gather the info you find valuable. Approach your machine with that knowledge then ask questions.
Thanks
Congratulations on the acquisition. It looks like a real fun project.
I'd check the two steppers before plugging it in. You can manually step up each unit and then release the stepper so that it returns to its index position. If either stepper is sluggish on the return (a likelihood), clean them both with alcohol. As long as the plug looks like it's safe to touch, I'd plug it in. The game should light but nothing else will happen until you drop a coin. The sequence motor should make a revolution and reset the steppers when your coin drops.
If you haven't found it already, check out the must-see gutz Skill-Roll tutorial (8 or so videos) on YouTube:
Trizel is doing a Skill-Roll restore and documenting it exceptionally well: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-skill-roll-restore-#post-5965691
The glass isn't original and it isn't CPR. I think it's an early reproduction done to get a game with a broken glass back in service. The customer would have been an operator, not a collector. You are missing the shroud over the lower part of the playfield on the reverse side. That's not a big deal, but the shroud does ensure that coins coming through the out-holes are diverted to the coin box via the two sloped ramps beneath the 8th row. I bought a 15-foot grounded cord from Marco and installed it on my Skill-Roll. I like that cord a lot because it is round and no-kink: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PC15
Good luck, and keep posting your progress.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:What size fuse goes in there?[quoted image]
Your game is OK as is. The top two fuse positions are mutually exclusive. You either have the fuse in the top slot for normal line voltage, or in the second slot for low line voltage. Don't insert a fuse into the empty position.
Quoted from edward472:No fuse goes there
This is correct. Only 1 fuse total between these top two locations. Only time one would put a fuse in the second spot (and without the top spot) is if the location's power at the wall was low.
BlackCatBone beat me to it - too slow.
Quoted from tstone:I wouldn't bother replacing the glass if I were you. Yours looks fine and is an interesting variation.
Update on the glass...it’s not glass. It’s a sheet of plexi with a decal affixed. When the marquee lights are on, even with LED bulbs installed, the decal is too thick to let the light through.
Since CPR is having the end of year sale, I’m going to order one from them.
FB63770C-9C4B-48FD-9DCD-BB9B2B259D03 (resized).jpegB3F03B0E-D89C-4180-AD34-24043D3F4C77 (resized).jpeg79F5CD54-5C68-4DAC-B07E-AC840A152C37 (resized).jpegQuoted from Blitzburgh99:the decal is too thick to let the light through.
It surprises me a little bit that the white doesn't allow light through.
The numbers on the decal I use lights perfectly, unless the decal on
yours isn't vinyl..
IMG_1001 (resized).JPGIMG_1002 (resized).JPGQuoted from Blitzburgh99:Update on the glass...it’s not glass. It’s a sheet of plexi with a decal affixed. When the marquee lights are on, even with LED bulbs installed, the decal is too thick to let the light through.
Since CPR is having the end of year sale, I’m going to order one from them.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Id definitely get Mopar's decal if he's still selling them and get a piece of glass cut. Much cheaper than CPR, and Mopar's colors are better in my opinion than CPR
Quoted from BlackCatBone:Congratulations on the acquisition. It looks like a real fun project.
I'd check the two steppers before plugging it in. You can manually step up each unit and then release the stepper so that it returns to its index position. If either stepper is sluggish on the return (a likelihood), clean them both with alcohol. As long as the plug looks like it's safe to touch, I'd plug it in. The game should light but nothing else will happen until you drop a coin. The sequence motor should make a revolution and reset the steppers when your coin drops.
If you haven't found it already, check out the must-see gutz Skill-Roll tutorial (8 or so videos) on YouTube:
Trizel is doing a Skill-Roll restore and documenting it exceptionally well: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-skill-roll-restore-#post-5965691
The glass isn't original and it isn't CPR. I think it's an early reproduction done to get a game with a broken glass back in service. The customer would have been an operator, not a collector. You are missing the shroud over the lower part of the playfield on the reverse side. That's not a big deal, but the shroud does ensure that coins coming through the out-holes are diverted to the coin box via the two sloped ramps beneath the 8th row. I bought a 15-foot grounded cord from Marco and installed it on my Skill-Roll. I like that cord a lot because it is round and no-kink: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PC15
Good luck, and keep posting your progress.
Thank you for the tip on the Gutz video series. Super informative!
Quoted from MrBally:Can't go wrong with BGResto either. But I'm not gonna tell you how to spend your money.....
Suggest you read all opinions in this thread, especially if you are considering bgresto.
I had a pretty negative experience there that lasted several months...and the number of blue stripes in their product isn't correct.
Not going to rehash this with the fanboys, but do your due diligence before investing several months and over $300.
I did the cpr glass, I don’t have an original to compare but looks great to me. It is “expensive” though.
Because I used the same original sheet of glass, this glass cost me $50.00
Others that used this decal stated that it comes out the best that they've
seen. This isn't a sales pitch. I don't make 1 cent off this. $50.00 is my cost.
Not everybody is rich. It would be much easier for me if I didn't post this,
but I can't see spending $300.00 on a glass in which 85% has no art work..
No photo, no scanning. This art work was digitized..
IMG_1001 (resized).JPGQuoted from Mopar:Because I used the same original sheet of glass, this glass cost me $50.00
Others that used this decal stated that it comes out the best that they've
seen. This isn't a sales pitch. I don't make 1 cent off this. $50.00 is my cost.
Not everybody is rich. It would be much easier for me if I didn't post this,
but I can't see spending $300.00 on a glass in which 85% has no art work..
No photo, no scanning. This art work was digitized..[quoted image]
I went with Mopar’s sweet decal.
It has been many years ago and it still looks great- nobody has ever guessed it is a decal. So much cheaper and just as nice.
Thanks Mopar!
Reminder that there's always the Japanese market... if you want to spend $6500 USD + shipping!
https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/l631471948?conversionType=mypage_closed_watch_list
Quoted from Mopar:Because I used the same original sheet of glass, this glass cost me $50.00
Others that used this decal stated that it comes out the best that they've
seen. This isn't a sales pitch. I don't make 1 cent off this. $50.00 is my cost.
Not everybody is rich. It would be much easier for me if I didn't post this,
but I can't see spending $300.00 on a glass in which 85% has no art work..
No photo, no scanning. This art work was digitized..[quoted image]
What is a sheet of glass cut? $50 ish? Yeah, this is a crazy good deal to get a game back up and looking great.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
