(Topic ID: 281772)

Bally Skill Roll Restore

By Trizel

3 years ago


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  • 85 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by pinhead52
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There are 85 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 3 years ago

BALLY SKILL RESTORE

I recently acquired a shed kept (guessing) skill roll that to the best of my knowledge hasn't been played since the 70s. (purely a guess it came with a hand full of nickels newest was 1976 or so).

Initial Condition: All there minus one foot, Not working, Repainted, Smelly, Full of bug houses, dead bugs, and random stuff. Lastly, all the metal was covered in a build-up or unknown variety.

Pros: no water damage All there, no severe structural damage, minimally modified, Salvageable.
Cons: Super dirty, Needs Love, Time, and money but that's the restore game.

I have been working on bringing it back and a few people I reached out to for help. Have asked for pictures and status so I thought I might just create a blog or sorts.

Here are some initial pictures.
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#2 3 years ago

The first step was the power to get an initial understanding of what worked or didn't. So fuse block and new power cord. Taking the door off for this is almost required but highly recommended. I got 10' wire from home depot and an outlet end. I didn't grab a picture of the replaced fuse block and fuses but you get the idea. Then I thew in a new fluorescent bulb.
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#3 3 years ago

Then I fired it up with minimal understanding as to how it worked. Hindsight Sequence motor, Tilt Relay, and Row and Score Counters are key.

Had to fix/unbend sequence motor switches and I was able to get things moving. Granted the game did not play but I was able to verify everything worked to some degree.

After that, I thought I might try to see if I could save the original paint. Denatured Alcohol and 45 mins of elbow time got me some sight on the original. However, with so many pits and the dark color it was repainted with in addition to the smell attached I just gave up on the original paint.

While I had the original colors showing I used a color grabbing tool I picked up a while back to grab the colors. Sharing the results of that also. This is for the red and yellow on the front and sides.

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#4 3 years ago

For internal mechanics and cleaning, I can't recommend any more the fantastic work and videos done by Gutz

link here

Shout outs to @gutz, @dudah, @shawn1976, and edward472 for help and guidance!!!!!!

After cleaning all of the door parts and adjustment the game was alive and I was able to actually play!!!! Super exciting moment!!!

#5 3 years ago

Next, I had some simultaneous efforts. Almost in order.

Acquire a painter
Put new feet on
Find a decal for the coin cost
Remove all the metal
Remove the front playfield frame
Sand and repair body wood.
Clean the playfield and switches,
Clean all the metal (handles, plates, coin receiver, etc)
get the cab repainted

This is a lot to tackle so I started with removing the playfield. Note when you do this watch the video series above it is pointed out you can remove the playfield and you can remove the handle railing system. The latter isn't great if you aren't expecting it.

After I got the playfield out leaving the plexi on I laid it yellow side down and removed all of the screws for the switched and pried all of the light sockets out. Then carefully slid a piece of cardboard under all the parts move it. Once that was out of the way I can clean the playfield but I wasn't sure how yet.

Wow the original yellow was awesome.
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#6 3 years ago

After researching cleaning techniques and ordering cleaning agents. I decided to remove the handles from the cab. Always staring with pictures first I took a panoramic of the hand inside and out. I removed the handle bolts slide the handles out then I removed the handle rails. After I got the rails out I wanted to remove the handle faceplates. So with patience and gentle touch, I tapped the back of the plates through the handle holes. Then I pried the screws up from the front.
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#7 3 years ago

After this i took off the rest of the metal inside and out bagged and tagged everything.

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#8 3 years ago

Now I wanted to take the playfield frame off. There are four nails in the front and two nails on the sides. I pushed the side nails in and pried the front nails and frame off. Use extreme caution here I was lucky and patient and I didn't break anything. If you zoom in on the side shot you can see the two nail holes.
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#9 3 years ago

Now with the frame off, secured and safe I could sand the body inside and out! One extra point of caution I couldn't tell if it was glue or the bonding of woods but I did get a little bit of wood loss under the bottom frame piece.

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#10 3 years ago

Looking good!

#11 3 years ago

Let the sanding and wood repair begin!

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#12 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Looking good!

impressive you found this before I finished the initial drop!!!

#13 3 years ago

This is is where i am currently in the restore.

Next items
Get the cab painted i am hiring out for this task. (the guy is very busy so while I wait)
Paint Score light box
Clean playfield
Clean Playfield Switches
Clean playfield Glass and install decal
Clean and polish all the metal
Restain and laquer playfield frame
Reassemble

#14 3 years ago

Those sequence motor switches I'd guess that some random heavy object fell into them when the door was open. Getting it playing was the easy part, good luck with the cosmetics

#15 3 years ago

Light box repainted small progress is progress. Cab goes to paint shop tomorrow.

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#16 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Looking good!

spoken like someone who knows a thing or two about Skill Rolls!

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Trizel:

Light box repainted small progress is progress. Cab goes to paint shop tomorrow.[quoted image][quoted image]

Replacing the bulb sockets or going back to the original ones?

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Replacing the bulb sockets or going back to the original ones?

New sockets

#19 3 years ago

Sanded the door and removed the parts. Insurance against theft or damage while getting painted

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#20 3 years ago

Cleaned the handles today but looks like the coating is coming off. Now I am thinking about recoating them.....

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#21 3 years ago

Cleaning more parts last picture I took before it went to the paint shop. Deleting some backglass art for a new decal. I felt a little sad for it. My glass has some chips at the very bottom waiting to get it back in the cabinet with the light and to see if it bothers me before I install the decal.
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#22 3 years ago
Quoted from Trizel:

Cleaning more parts last picture I took before it went to the paint shop. Deleting some backglass art for a new decal. I felt a little sad for it. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#23 3 years ago

is there anyway to scan that coin acceptor? or something..... be nice to be able to make a new one of sorts.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

is there anyway to scan that coin acceptor? or something..... be nice to be able to make a new one of sorts.

If you have an idea its probably a couple weeks before I put it back together.

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

is there anyway to scan that coin acceptor? or something..... be nice to be able to make a new one of sorts.

I’ve got measurements and was planning to model it in Fusion

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I’ve got measurements and was planning to model it in Fusion

that would be awesome! I knew a guy on the vpin forum in MN that had a 3d model scanner, so if I ever was able to get items I could hit him up. But Mine is missing and the one project one in MN sold for waaaay more than what I was wanting to pay for a parts game.

#27 3 years ago

Sanded the playfield frame today with 80 and 120 going to finish it out with 220 hopefully tomorrow. Phone was dead for sides and bottom before shot. You can see get the idea with the head piece shot though.

Next I will be conditioning the wood and staining a few colors on the back of the headpiece to choose from.

Notice: If anyone else tries to do this make sure you move the frame around all together you don't want either side drooping it could crack the wood. So hold it like a big square.

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#28 3 years ago

I haven't stained yet but I have narrowed it down to two stains choices. Since I only get one shot I want to make sure it is perfect. I am waiting on some product deliveries also. In the meantime I started cleaning the playfield. Incredibly easier when you take out all the switches. So far I hit it with naphtha and novus 2. I still want to apply novus 1 and carnauba wax. But novus 2 really improved the cleanliness and color.

It was a bummer to see damage on the playfield. It arrived like this not my doing.

I also got the gulmite screws looking nice.

More to come

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#29 3 years ago

Looking good.
While you have the playfield out go get it color matched at Sherwin and get a little bottle for touchups!

#30 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Looking good.
While you have the playfield out go get it color matched at Sherwin and get a little bottle for touchups!

Not a bad idea. I bought this a while back it is pretty handly! https://www.nixsensor.com/

#31 3 years ago
Quoted from Trizel:

Sanded the playfield frame today with 80 and 120 going to finish it out with 220 hopefully tomorrow. Phone was dead for sides and bottom before shot. You can see get the idea with the head piece shot though.
Next I will be conditioning the wood and staining a few colors on the back of the headpiece to choose from.
Notice: If anyone else tries to do this make sure you move the frame around all together you don't want either side drooping it could crack the wood. So hold it like a big square. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

So now that it’s sanded can you tell what kind of wood it is?

#32 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

So now that it’s sanded can you tell what kind of wood it is?

funny you ask I thought of you and I watched some how to identify wood videos but damn if I am any more capable of identifing it. I also wanted to know to choose the best stain........ ill see if anyone in my area is a wood connoisseur before I cover it but not likely. Definitely a softer wood but that doesn't help much.

#33 3 years ago

Maple?

Looking Good!

#34 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Maple?
Looking Good!

hey stranger. The collection is growing, thanks.

#35 3 years ago
Quoted from Trizel:

funny you ask I thought of you and I watched some how to identify wood videos but damn if I am any more capable of identifing it. I also wanted to know to choose the best stain........ ill see if anyone in my area is a wood connoisseur before I cover it but not likely. Definitely a softer wood but that doesn't help much.

Haha, thanks! Yeah, I’m not good with wood beyond like kind of knowing pine is super soft and oak has a pretty easy to spot gain.

Thank you if you do! Otherwise I’ll just leave mine goofy lookin :-p all the other parts are Frankenstein anywho :-p

Cleaning jones plugs this weekend to get and make sure the score motors are working. My daughter would love to play

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Haha, thanks! Yeah, I’m not good with wood beyond like kind of knowing pine is super soft and oak has a pretty easy to spot gain.
Thank you if you do! Otherwise I’ll just leave mine goofy lookin :-p all the other parts are Frankenstein anywho :-p
Cleaning jones plugs this weekend to get and make sure the score motors are working. My daughter would love to play

I am sure you know but be super gentle with the female portion of the plugs.

3 weeks later
#37 3 years ago

Christmas preparation pulled me away and as we all know you never have only one project going. My cabinet is nearing the finish line on the original repaint makeover with the commissioned painter. I am awaiting repro coin cost plates, return coin plate and the rectangle spacers that go between the playfield and the handle rails. If anyone that hasn't already needs / wants any of those repo parts let me know.

I have some time off this week so there should be some great photos coming. Belated Merry Christmas all.

#38 3 years ago
Quoted from Trizel:

Christmas preparation pulled me away and as we all know you never have only one project going. My cabinet is nearing the finish line on the original repaint makeover with the commissioned painter. I am awaiting repro coin cost plates, return coin plate and the rectangle spacers that go between the playfield and the handle rails. If anyone that hasn't already needs / wants any of those repo parts let me know.
I have some time off this week so there should be some great photos coming. Belated Merry Christmas all.

I just picked one up and going to do the full restore on it. Going though the mechanicals now. Can I get any and all repro items you are sourcing?

#39 3 years ago

The frame is made from poplar wood. Very common in the furniture industry back in the day. It's stable (less warping/cupping), easy to machine, slightly more durable than pine, tight grain that can mimic hardwoods. The stain used is opaque and created a faux cherry look. I just recently redid one myself but opted for a couple coats of dark Minwax followed by several spray coats semi-gloss polyurethane.

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#40 3 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

The frame is made from poplar wood. Very common in the furniture industry back in the day. It's stable (less warping/cupping), easy to machine, slightly more durable than pine, tight grain that can mimic hardwoods. The stain used is opaque and created a faux cherry look. I just recently redid one myself but opted for a couple coats of dark Minwax followed by several spray coats semi-gloss polyurethane.[quoted image]

What did you use to replace the foam on the lightbox?

#41 3 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

What did you use to replace the foam on the lightbox?

Oh dang, didn't realize there was foam, if it isn't "stock" that is a good idea.

#42 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Oh dang, didn't realize there was foam, if it isn't "stock" that is a good idea.

I've used window seal but I'm always open to something new.

#43 3 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

What did you use to replace the foam on the lightbox?

It is a thick felt weatherstripping that I cut down to make it a bit narrow. Install with very small apolstory staples that I use for stapling ground braids as well. Haven't tested it out yet whether I will really like it. Unfortunately, the original foam weather stripping made a mess on the backglass but I was able to remove most of it without too much damage.

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#44 3 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

It is a thick felt weatherstripping that I cut down to make it a bit narrow. Install with very small apolstory staples that I use for stapling ground braids as well. Haven't tested it out yet whether I will really like it. Unfortunately, the original foam weather stripping made a mess on the backglass but I was able to remove most of it without too much damage.
[quoted image]

Yeah the original foam is always a mess on old ems. It's always hard by now and has stuck itself to the glass. Last thing I tried was the fuzzy side of velcro that comes with an adhesive back. Worked pretty well

#45 3 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

The frame is made from poplar wood. Very common in the furniture industry back in the day. It's stable (less warping/cupping), easy to machine, slightly more durable than pine, tight grain that can mimic hardwoods. The stain used is opaque and created a faux cherry look. I just recently redid one myself but opted for a couple coats of dark Minwax followed by several spray coats semi-gloss polyurethane.[quoted image]

Are you sure it is poplar? Seems like every piece of wood I've seen on older Williams, Bally, Genco, etc. is either oak or maple. Poplar is very stable and great for holding paint but is not typically used for stained applications. More importantly, Poplar is very, very soft (540 Janka vs 870 for cheap yellow pine). Hence, why I was curious about this.

#46 3 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

Are you sure it is poplar? Seems like every piece of wood I've seen on older Williams, Bally, Genco, etc. is either oak or maple. Poplar is very stable and great for holding paint but is not typically used for stained applications. More importantly, Poplar is very, very soft (540 Janka vs 870 for cheap yellow pine). Hence, why I was curious about this.

Yup, It's poplar. I just refinished the rails on a restoration. The wood is definitely softer then the hardwoods used on many of the classic woodrails of the 30s-50s. Looking at the inside of the top rail mortise (where the top slips onto the tenon), I could definitely see a green tinge to the wood which is a sure giveaway. Is the only domestic wood that I know of that has a green tinge to it. ( I have been doing professional wood working for 35 years FYI.) Many furniture makers used to use it for more than just hidden parts for the same reasons. Able to mimic more expensive hardwoods at a fraction of the price, light weight, takes stain well (again solid stains would hide the sometimes dramatic color change from heart wood to outer lighter wood) competing with more expensive 'real' hardwood furniture, it was a common substitute for the economy market. Here's a piece from the 1960's made in Maine that was a very popular brand for decades-Moosehead brand. (The finish would scar quite easily compared to hardwoods just like the rails on Skill Roll)

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#47 3 years ago

Finalizing playfield novus 1 and mothers carnauba wax completed.

I hand mixed some model paint and did my best filling the 20pt chip light sand paint light sand 120grit. It's not perfect but acceptable to me. Super close up makes it look not great. Sharing paint matches also.

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#48 3 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

Yup, It's poplar. I just refinished the rails on a restoration. The wood is definitely softer then the hardwoods used on many of the classic woodrails of the 30s-50s. Looking at the inside of the top rail mortise (where the top slips onto the tenon), I could definitely see a green tinge to the wood which is a sure giveaway. Is the only would that I know of that has a green tinge to it. ( I have been doing professional wood working for 35 years FYI.)

I know a couple of other woods that can have a green tone, but they are exotics so, no doubt, it must be poplar. Seems like an odd pick for something they were going to stain. I'll use poplar when making something that will be painted and I confess I'll sometimes use it instead of maple for drawers but I've never even attempted to stain it. I learned something new today!

#49 3 years ago

Repro parts finally came in.

Metal is 304 stainless steel
Coin cost plate
Coin return plate
Rectangle spacers
Cost Decal

Cabinet paint update:
Base coat pictures came in, I think it looks awesome. Stencils and paint coming soon.

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#50 3 years ago

Interesting wife got a cricut for christmas and I got an engraving tool for it. Then today I had an idea to engrave the logo on the coin cost plate. Kind of cool!!!

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