G'afternoon,

I picked up a new to me Six Million Dollar Man, non working. After replacing fuses the machine boots and coins up but none of the solenoids are working.

My DMM reads 41vdc on TP4 and on the flippers. From what I've read it should be 43vdc. I'm also only getting 6 flashes so that seems to be the problem. Any pointers of where to look? I'm new to working on pinball machines so any help is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Would the 43v check fail at 41v? That's what I'm getting on the F4 test point. It seems like there must be some range that's acceptable.

I tried jumping the MPU as described in the link when you're testing the board on your bench but that still didn't get the seventh flash.

Thanks

I've replaced too look lhe fuse down there and the holder looks fine, I'll try cleaning it.

Are you able to coin up if the boot does not finish?

Cool, maybe I was counting wrong, I was only counting the quick flashes. I'm not hearing the knocker, haven't verified it's there, and the flippers don't work. It will coin up and add players but won't start the game.

At some point between last night and today it stopped starting the game.

So I feel like an idiot. The game completely starts just none of the solenoids are working.

I'm going to take a closer look at F4.

Thanks all, I'll play around some more with it tonight.

Finally got back to looking at this.

Initially I wasn't getting any power at all at the fuse. I noticed there was wire on the right flipper that had become unsoldered (bad soldering job). After reconnecting that I am now getting 42v before and after the fuse and on the other flipper.

Still nothing is firing in test mode, startup (drops not resetting) or in game.

I check the voltages on the Solenoid driver board and came up with to deviations from the material here: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver.2FRegulator_Test_Point_Values

My TP2 reads around 220VDC and TP3 is at 1VDC

I also may have broken the poor solder job done between the replacement NiCad battery and the MPU when I was reseating connectors (bad soldering is starting to worry me). Either way if that wasn't broken before it is now. I haven't read anything about a bad battery causing issues so I'm going to assume that's not a root cause of my board problems.

Progress!

I jumped TP1 to TP3 started it up and the drop targets reset. I was able to start a game with it releasing the ball.
The main playfield solenoids fire fine.

The only issue now seems to be that the flippers are not working at all.

Some progress feels good though.

I'm getting a clicking at test 14, what does that implicate?

Thanks a lot for that detailed write up.

That was it. Just bad connections. Looks like I really should have listened to the advice online and cleaned those all first.

Thanks everyone for your help I'll be making a donation to the site.

Quench: I'll test it out tonight.

Donation made.

Setting 30 and 31 worked out just as you said. Went through MPU tests then zeroes on the display and then nothing else

Yeah that's the conclusion I've come to. The audio board connection had to be wiggled some to fix the sound at one point.

I'm leaning towards replacing most of the connectors and pins. There's enough corrosion that just removing the connectors to reseat can be incredibly tough if not impossible on some.

And while I'm doing that I might as well do the caps and the rest of Vid's bulletproofing recommendations.