(Topic ID: 283464)

Bally Shuffle Bowler issues

By KSUWildcatFan

3 years ago


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    #1 3 years ago

    I just picked this up yesterday, seemingly working okay but no lights. I was investigating the fuses and found the 15A to be cracked so I replaced it. I'm not sure continuity is great on that block so I'll likely end up replacing it at some point. Anyway, lights now work. But the game seems hung. It won't release pucks (it was previously) and appears to be stuck in game over mode. It was stuck on frame 8 I believe when I cycled power and now it just doesn't want to pull itself out of game over.

    I tried finding a manual, schematics, or anything... but no such luck. Could be that I'm just clueless on where to look; i know almost nothing about these and I usually avoid EMs like the plague.

    Any suggestions, or links?

    Also, I'm missing the 6 bulb cover, I don't suppose there's even a snowballs chance of finding a replacement? I'm thinking I'll likely need to just replace all 10 so they match.

    Any help is appreciated.

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    #2 3 years ago

    Scratch that, I'm dumb. I didn't realize the switch at the front had been flipped (apparently it doesn't turn it off entirely, but it does prevent a game from starting?). Switched that back and it let me complete a game. The 7 pin seems to be the only one that won't register by itself. From my testing it seemed like all of the others registered properly..but the 7 pin will only drop as part of a combo with 4 (different switch than 7 by itself). I can't figure out what's going on with 7. I cleaned the contacts and it's clearly making contact from the topside. I checked the switch stack and it looks right also, so I'm at a bit of a loss on what to do. Disassemble, deep clean it, resolder the contacts? Something else?

    Would still love a manual or schematic if anyone had links to those.

    Thanks!
    -Jordan

    #5 3 years ago

    I think deluxe is a different game, right? Mine is a 1 player, I think deluxe is a multi. May be the same on all the scoring components though. Good suggestion on ebay, I'll have to see if anything pops up in a search.

    #7 3 years ago
    Quoted from KevinD:

    Jeff Wager might have what you need. He is showing a schematic and a manual.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Is that $15 each? Thanks for the info!

    #11 3 years ago

    Looks like my switches may be different?

    Pressing the switch I'm pointing at didn't drop 7. In fact I'm not sure it does anything at all, similarly to the one directly next to 7.

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    #12 3 years ago
    Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

    Looks like my switches may be different?
    Pressing the switch I'm pointing at didn't drop 7. In fact I'm not sure it does anything at all, similarly to the one directly next to 7.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    These switches knock over all but 7. Same on the other strike zone. 7 will ONLY drop with the 4 pin as part of the 4-7-8 relay it seems.

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    #15 3 years ago

    Apologies for the lack of response. I've been pretty overwhelmed with all my projects the last several days. This is what I see inside the cab, in addition to the switches under the playfield itself.

    I guess I'm just not 'getting it' but there's one coil for the entire bank, just to reset it. What am I missing?

    I thought about just switching the wires for the 7 pin with the 10 pin to see if that makes the 10 pin (now effectively the 7 pin) not drop, but I'm not sure what that really tells me..wiring problem in the cab as opposed to the switch under the playing surface?

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    #17 3 years ago
    Quoted from stoli1:

    I have circled what I presume to be the 7 pin "relay" assembly. Each pin has a relay assembly as well as the combos "5-8-9", "4-7-8", etc. Each relay assembly consists of a series of switches and a small coil. The large coil that you see resets all the relays to start a frame. When one of the smaller coils is fired, the arm that is holding the switch leaves up on that pin is released, toggling the switches. If you look under those switches, you will find the small individual coils for each pin. You should be able to rotate that entire switch bank up to better inspect the switches and the coils. Typically there is a wing nut or something on the end of the bank that releases the mechanism in order to rotate it.
    First thing is to carefully inspect each of the switches on the 7 pin relay. One of the switches will have a wire that connects directly to the coil. That is the switch that must be closed and making good contact when the bank is reset and will open when the coil is fired.
    If that switch is making good contact, then the problem is likely with the 7 coil. I'll make a post explaining my suggestion for easily testing the 7 coil in a bit.
    [quoted image]

    Yeah, I definitely agree what you circled is what I need to look at. I guess what I'm confused on is just where the corresponding coil would be. I can observe all the other switches working when corresponding switches are triggered, but nothing from 7. I looked all around for a coil attached to that stack but didn't see anything. I'll check under and see what I find. Am I really this dense? lol

    #20 3 years ago

    Ah, I see em. They're crammed waaaay back there

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    #22 3 years ago
    Quoted from stoli1:

    OK, if the switches look good, then next thing is to inspect the coil and the mechanism around it to see if it looks and functions like those around it.

    I should be able to remove the entire stack(stacks? both of them, for 7?), right? Then I can inspect the wiring as well as the coil.

    #26 3 years ago
    Quoted from stoli1:

    You shouldn't have to remove the individual switches at this point. The whole bank can be swiveled up. Look for a nut, wing nut, or cotter pin on the end of the bank. With that removed, the entire bank will swivel on some hinges.

    Thank you! I'll give it a look.

    Quoted from stoli1:

    I'll be back in a bit.... Need to clear 2 feet of snow off my driveway.

    No rush, I'm wrapping up my work day anyway. I'm going to go look at this here in a bit. I appreciate all the help!

    #27 3 years ago

    Nothing like that that I see? I was going to add a coil on to my marco order but I'm not sure which one i need without seeing it. I'm not in any kind of rush to fix but I should definitely get that order in soon if possible. Any ideas?

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    1 week later
    #32 3 years ago

    Finally got a chance to get back out to the garage to mess with this. The two screws (your "1") on either side of the bank, when removed, allow it to pull out. Well, Kind of. There's a switch on the left that's preventing me from pulling it all the way out. I'm about to unscrew that and see how that works out....but my fear is that I may not be able to get it positioned back in when I'm all done. Really I just want to figure out what coil it's using so I can add one (or two) to the order I'm about to place. Actually fixing it and all that...meh, whatever. I need to get it finished up and delivered to my friend in the next month or so, but there's really no urgent rush. I don't see any kind of writing on the coil from what I can see of it :\

    #33 3 years ago
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    #34 3 years ago

    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/30-V-26

    This one popped up when I searched for shuffle bowler parts...but I have very little faith (or even hope, really) that it's....the right part.

    #36 3 years ago
    Quoted from stoli1:

    Well, to ensure you get the correct coil, you will first need to acquire a schematic. Another possibility is to email PBR and if you describe which coil you need and the name of the game you need it for, they might be able to help you out. As a last resort, if you can't find a schematic or get info from PBR or someone else, then you can measure the coil voltage at the transformer and if it is 26-30 VAC, then that coil from Marco that you linked to is probably a good bet.
    I'd still try to figure out a way to test the 7 coil in place before you go through the trouble and expense of buying a new coil and pulling that bank apart to replace it. It would suck to go through all that only to find out the problem is with a switch or connector and not the coil itself.
    1. Does one or two of the wires from each stack of switches go down to the coils below?
    2. Can you access the solder tabs on the coils without removing the entire switch bank?
    3. Have you tripped the metal plate on the 7 relay to make sure that the relay works physically, and thereby also checked the function of the switches associated with the 7 coil/relay?

    Yeah, I really do need to get my hands on a schematic. Sucks there apparently isn't one available online to just go download. Hate to sound like a cheap ass but since I'm not keeping this after I get thing working, I'm trying to be cheap about it. Then again, since it's going to a friend, having a schematic for future use would probably be good. I highly doubt this is the last time I'll have to work on this.

    I definitely need to test the coil and all that.. but it seems to me that I have to remove the entire bank in order to access the tabs on the coil itself. The board won't pull out far enough for me to access the back, unless it's just Jones plugs preventing this... I'll check that today.

    Honestly I haven't had a lot of opportunity to debug much. I've been trying to get access to the back of the bank with little success.

    Lemme see what I can figure out today and hopefully I can answer some questions. I might go ahead and just order that coil so I can place my marco order. I'm betting that, if that's not the right coil, marco probably doesn't sell it to begin with and in that case I'll be making a separate order with PBR, as you mentioned, anyway.

    I really do appreciate all the help!

    #37 3 years ago

    Nope, there's a lot of wiring preventing me from completely pulling the board out, so it looks like I'm going to be pulling the bank around that left switch and hoping I can get it back in. Its really weird how it seems to lock that left side in.

    #41 3 years ago

    I agree with what you're saying. I think I'll put these screws back in and see where removing #2 gets me. I really need to be able to look at things in the back, where it's of course a royal pain to get to.

    I've thought plenty about trying to jumper things (7 switch and 10 switch topside as well as things in the bank) but I think I really need to get to the backside of the bank so I can see what's going on. I went ahead and ordered that coil from Marco because I needed to place my order but if it ends up being the wrong one I'll just throw it in my toolbox.

    Its sleeting and cold as hell outside right now (not sure if winter finally hit or if kansas is just stupid and it'll be 70 and sunny tomorrow) but I'm hoping to get back out there soon to investigate further.

    I don't feel like this should be all that complicated to fix, it's just a matter of me being able to get to where I need to get so I can properly diagnose... and then fix!

    3 weeks later
    #42 3 years ago

    Well, my friend wanted me to just bring it over so I tried putting the bank back in and retesting,hoping it would at least be back where it was. It cycled through the reset routines a few times and then went dark. Completely dead (as it was when I bought it) again. Going to actually replace the fuse holders and see where that gets me i guess. Fuses were all good.

    Going to order the schematic and try for the coil as well so I can get back to this. I know he'd like to play it sooner rather than later and now that it's at his house I've got a clock on making it happen. Doh.

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