Hi James
we may have to write several posts to look at all You have written in post-8.
I pick the "blue arching on each switch on Bonus-Advance-Relay" --- I love the late(r) Williams EM-Pin documentation - each relay with all its switches are shown in the manual. I like Gottlieb documentation - on the schematics are lists of relays, to each relay comes the information (example) QQ-Relay, 4A, 2B, 1C - I then can search the schematics for FOUR Normally-Open-Switches (on QQ-Relay), can search for TWO Normally-Closed-Switches (), can search for the ONE threebladed-Make-and-Break-Switch (). I do not like the Bally documentation - no information on "how many switches on a specific relay". Please look up in Your pin, count and tell me HOW many switches are mounted on the "Bonus-Advance-Relay" ? --- WITH the number of switches I then can search the schematics until I find ALL these switches - and we then discuss the switches.
In general I do not like blue arching --- I try to reduce the arching by "cleaning contact-points on the switchblades, adjust the gapping to 'normal, nice operation' ".
I pick the "weird thing, Tilt-Switches". Your pin should have on the mech. panel down in the cabinet an so-called "Kick-Off-Switch". Your pin has an main power-toggle-on/off-Switch, Your pin has an "Front-Door-Anti-Cheat-Slam-Tilt-Switch", weighted, Normally-Closed to produce an "severe Tilt". Your pin has (should have) the lovely feature "pressing the left Flipper-Button turns on the lights". Your pin has three (Normally-Open) Tilt-Switches - when one closes then the Tilt-Relay pulls-in and we loose "Ball in Play" (I call this a minor Tilt). We owners of the pins are nice and friendly - we may shake a bit too much and we have a minor Tilt --- we never bang on the Coin Door producing an severe Tilt (means the lights go off and we loose all remaning balls for all participating player - we must press the left Flipper-Button (again), we must start a new game).
Think back into the arcade times - in the evening when closing: The operator walks from pin to pin toggling-off the main power switch - OR HE COULD have banged onto the coin door producing an severe Tilt (pin looks like toggled-off) OR HE COULD (slightly) banged his fist upward onto the plywood on the bottom of the pin - at the place where the "Kick-Off-Switch" is mounted on the mech. panel in the cabinet. A bolt then jumps upwards and opens the Kick-Off-Switch --- the pin does the same reaction as "banging on the coin door" --- the effects are equal - only the purposes are different (hammering on the coin door is trying to cheat - punished by a severe tilt / slightly banging upwards onto the plywood rewarded with "kind of toggling off, looking toggled-off".
I strongly suggest: Never use that Kick-Off-Switch - think of it as beeing an "Severe Tilt switch like the front door slam switch" - always have the Kick-Off-Switch permanently closed - simply always do toggle-off the main power-switch.
See the first JPG - the mech. panel of my Shangri La --- at "my B" You see the "Kick-Off-Switch" mounted and on "my C" You see the switch taken away and we see the bolt that jumps up when we bang upwards from underneath. My Shangri La does NOT have an main power toggle switch - on my Shangri La I regularly use this Kick-Off-Switch for to "toggle-off the pin".
Severe Tilt switches like coin door anti cheat switch - also Kick-Off-Switch do the same - they cut Self-Hold-Circuitry of the steady pulling Lock-Relay - the Lock-Relay let go and switches open - switches for the illumination. We then (must) press the left flipper button and something maybe not well-known happens: The Game-Over-Relay is made to TRIP - then when we press the Start-Button: A NEW game does start.
James - I look at the schematics of Sea Ray and I am very frustrated - for example the Bally Amigo functions as "written in my text above" - (I am frustrated) but the Bally Sea Ray Coin Door Anti-Cheat-Switch does NOT cut the Self-Hold-Circuitry on Lock-Relay" - please use "my text above" as an description "often it works like that" ...
Back to "Sea Ray" - see the second JPG: We toggle-on the main power switch - the Lock-Relay is not (yet) pulling, "switch my red 1" is closed --- the Game-Over-Relay maybe is already tripped from the game before - or then: Through "red-1" the Game-Over-Relay (red-2) is made to trip and so opens "red-3" - this hinders to get feeded the coil all the time. We then press the left flipper button (red-4) - the Lock-Relay (red-5) pulls-in, closes "Self-Hold-Switch red-6", closes (red-7 and red-8) switches for the lights.
When we bang onto the plywood and bolt jumps up and so Kick-off-Switch (red-9) opens: The Lock-Relay "let go", "red-6 and red-7 and red-8" open and the pin looks like toggled-off.
Bally schematics are "not easy to look at" - folded in a strange way - my "AA" in the JPG is like original in the schematics - my "BB" is just mirrowed - please look at "my BB".
James - I did "lenghty writing" (I hope interesting writing) --- please write what You would like to "look at next" - maybe we stick to the "switch on the bottom of cabinet" You show in the last two pictures in post-8 --- how about "have this switch closed all the times - and proceed in trouble-shooting" (?) Greetings Rolf
Sh-La-Bot-Pan-3 -Work1 (resized).JPG0Sea-Ray-Work-12 (resized).jpg