Rolling Stones
Bally, 1980You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jethrop.
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Game quit working. On power up I get one LED flicker on the MPU than nothing. Researching online it says if I don't get the first flash then start by replacing the U6 chip. Isn't that game specific and unobtainium? Is this the right approach or is there something else to try first?
Quoted from slochar:If it's the original masked rom (no window/sticker) just replace it with a burned eprom and change the jumpers. Most people just change the jumpers on their -35 bally boards to take 2x2732's in u2 and u6.
You're saying the original masked rom should have no sticker on it? So I thought my U6 is original, but it does have a sticker on it. I'm a little confused. Are you saying replace the U6 with 2x2732 in addition to U1 and U2? So replace 3 with 4 chips?
OK, so what everyone is saying is buy two 2732 eproms...remove the old chips at U1, U2, and U6, then install the new one in socket U2, the other installs in socket at U6. Then change the board jumpers. Is that right? Recommendations for the best (and least cost) where to purchase the eproms? Thanks for the help.
Quoted from Quench:Post a picture of your MPU board so we can see exactly what ROMs are fitted to your board.
First do the easy thing that frenchmarky mentioned, the problem might be a ROM socket - does this board have battery corrosion? Do the pins on any of the ROMs look badly tarnished?
If the problem persists you'll need to look at swapping the ROMs for EPROMs and while you're at it consider using optional freeplay code.
These games all have the same U6 ROM (Bally E720-35) as Rolling Stones - if you have access to one of these games, you could try swapping U6.
Nitro Groundshaker
Silverball Mania
Harlem Globetrotters
Dolly Parton
Future Spa
Rolling Stones
Mystic
Viking
Hot Doggin'
I have ROM's in U1, U2, and U6. There was corrosion on the board that I abated a few years ago then sealed the traces. I have performed continuity checks along the traces and from the ROM pins (above the sockets) to the board and have found no defects. Assuming all that is good, I suppose I could try replacing the ROM's.....but I am really leaning towards a new board for reliability (suspect that board corrosion could still be a factor, or could become a factor in the future). I don't have any other games that you list where I could swap a ROM....I do have Future Spa but it has a MUTHA BOARD. I have a Mata Hari but it's not on your list. Hmm...decisions...
OK, so I removed U1, U2, and U6 (again)....cleaned the pins and reflowed the socket pin solder connections on the board. Reinserted the chips and still no first flash. I guess it's time to try new chips or buy a new MPU board. Decisions 
Voltages are correct. When I briefly connect pins 39-40 as asked, the green LED lights. I pulled the socket at U8 to check under it, clean, and will replace with a new socket.
So I removed the U8 chip and socket. Cleaned, inspected, and installed a new socket, checked traces for continuity from the socket, and replaced the U8 chip. I believe all that to be good. Well, now when I power up I get a steady LED light.
Update. Enough stressing. Purchased a new aftermarket board so hopefully can forget about the what-ifs. Consider this topic complete. Thanks to everyone who offered help and suggestions.
New board arrived today. You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need. Which I did today. Thank you Weebly.
Quoted from BigAl56:Hah! I get it. Nice post. Let us know how it goes and if you need to add some Brown Sugar.
It's working great! Of course could always use some brown sugar. (That's so wrong). Next time the game quits I'm gonna Paint it Black.
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