(Topic ID: 234446)

bally power play not powering up


By powerplayray

4 months ago



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  • 50 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by dasvis
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#1 4 months ago

machine made humming sound and then shut down.the onlt thing that works is the lights and flippers.
notice coil humming and getting hot.replace that and not humming but getting hot.just had the solnoid board replaced.call the repair man he said i probally need anther board.i dont want to replace it to happen again.
what could be causing this and how i the problem

#2 4 months ago

Check the switches for the coil that is humming and getting hot. Go into switch test and see which switches are closed when they should not be. Go to Pinwiki and read the troubleshooting section on Bally SDBs. Report back your findings.

#3 4 months ago

What coil is getting hot?
So the game is coming up and a coil is getting hot? Not sure I understand what state your game is in.

#4 4 months ago

Yeah we're going to need a little more info before we can try to help. Which coil?

#5 4 months ago

The post pop up coil getting hot was also humming replace coil now just getting hot no humming.talk with repair guy who replace my solenoid board said I need anther board. I do not want to replace it and have it blow up. Or do you think I should replace the board

#6 4 months ago

Have you run the solenoid and switch tests yet? Do you have the manual to walk you through the tests?

#7 4 months ago

I have hit the button on the coin door to test nothing work except the lights and flippers

#8 4 months ago

Which lights? How many flashes on the MPU LED when you try to boot the game?

#9 4 months ago

Mph is that the solenoid board if so they all flash red then goes out.according to the book that what they are suppose to do. Tornado is working on the board

#10 4 months ago

You should check the switches that trigger that coil -- the Up Post and/or Down Post switches (whichever coil is applicable -- this is a two-coil setup, IIRC, right?) ... make sure they all have a reasonable gap in the switch. If the coil is trying to be 'on' full-time, that could mean one of the switches is stuck closed.

If that doesn't resolve it, then I'd suggest disconnecting one of the wires off the coil that's getting hot, and see if they game operates normally otherwise, without that one coil connected. (Obviously that coil itself won't work, but we can at least check on the health of the rest of the machine.) The game should still play normally without it (albeit without the post feature), so if all else is good, then at least we've isolated the issue to be directly related to that coil (and possibly its transistor and/or associated wiring/switches/connectors).

#11 4 months ago

Ok I think we are stuck on the coil I can not start the game to see anything to work I think more about the solenoid board not working probably .can a resistor on that board be bad causing nothing to work.as far as the coil goes all I did was replace it not change anything on it

#12 4 months ago
Quoted from powerplayray:

Ok I think we are stuck on the coil I can not start the game to see anything to work I think more about the solenoid board not working probably .can a resistor on that board be bad causing nothing to work.as far as the coil goes all I did was replace it not change anything on it

Disconnect one wire from the problem coil and see if the game boots up without it.

#13 4 months ago

GMe still does not boot up

#14 4 months ago

Sorry game still does not boot up

#15 4 months ago
Quoted from powerplayray:

Sorry game still does not boot up

Check fuses,

#16 4 months ago

All good first thing I checked.check with meter

#17 4 months ago

Is the MPU original or new substitute/replacement? How many flashes do you see on the MPU light when you turn the power on?

Also, what's your history with this game? Was it working fine previously?

#18 4 months ago

Solenoid board. Brand new Alltek Repair man replace the power board and solenoid board along with new outlet plug .was working after about 5 game it made aloud humming sound and stop working.notice the pop up coil was getting hot and smell burning

#19 4 months ago
Quoted from powerplayray:

Solenoid board. Brand new Alltek Repair man replace the power board and solenoid board along with new outlet plug .was working after about 5 game it made aloud humming sound and stop working.notice the pop up coil was getting hot and smell burning

Ok, so if the MPU was not replaced, then it should have a little red LED on it that flickers momentarily when you power it on, and then will flash a number of times after that (during the bootup process). Knowing how many times it flashes can help point us in the right direction. Open the head, and watch the light on the MPU while you flip on the power. Let us know what you see.

#20 4 months ago

Look at last email I did replace the mpu board.alltek board.The tornado is going around told me the board is OK but I still think I have a problem with the board recording to the pinball repair man

#21 4 months ago

1966-oldsmobile-toronado (resized).jpg

? Tornado

#22 4 months ago
Quoted from powerplayray:

Look at last email I did replace the mpu board.alltek board.The tornado is going around told me the board is OK but I still think I have a problem with the board recording to the pinball repair man

Thats not the MPU. Thats the solenoid driver board. MPU is the upper left board. There is a green light on that. Count the flashes at start up and tell us how many.

#23 4 months ago

If your MPU is still original, it should look similar to this -- I've circled the light we're talking about. Could also be red (as mine was) if it's been swapped out with a compatible board.

pasted_image (resized).png

#25 4 months ago

Good info there, but I never knew it exstited until I saw someone else post it somewhere else. He probably did not know either.

I have never seen a MPU with a red light, so I learned something today.

#26 4 months ago

Funny thing is happening when I take the plug to plug it in the outlet sometimes I can get solid red light on the MPU board or it is blank on the solenoid board things loaded up and then the next time when I plug-in it doesn't show up

#27 4 months ago

I am getting different Lights on the mpu and solenoid board when I giggle the power cord in the electric outlet.plug it in one time get solid green light take the cord out plug it back in again no light

#28 4 months ago

Use the on/off switch under the machine, near the front to turn the machine on and off. Please post a picture of the solenoid boards and MPU.

#29 4 months ago
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#30 4 months ago

Looks like lots of corrosion on the MPU. (Circled in red) Maybe someone else can confirm this. The green light is the one you need to watch when you turn the game on with the switch under the cabinet.

When you turn on the game...count the flashs that the green light makes and report back what happens

Screenshot_20190124-171729 (resized).jpg
#31 4 months ago

You can also checkout the link for more info on counting the flashes on the MPU

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index2.htm#flash

#32 4 months ago

There is no flashes it either off or solid . Plug Game in there's no light lit.unplug it and plug it back in and get us solid green light. That's why if you look at the four pictures you'll see the two boards with less lights on turn on plug it back in and you see I get more lights sporadic

#33 4 months ago
Quoted from powerplayray:

There is no flashes it either off or solid . Plug Game in there's no light lit.unplug it and plug it back in and get us solid green light. That's why if you look at the four pictures you'll see the two boards with less lights on turn on plug it back in and you see I get more lights sporadic

Per the link above:

"No Flashes: the LED is Permanently On.
If you turn your Bally game on, and the LED stays on continually, this is one of the hardest problem to fix on these boards. A stuck on LED can be caused by any (or all!) of the following:

The reset circuit is damaged (after all, it's in the battery corrosion area!). This includes transistors Q1 and Q2 (both 2N3904), Q5 (2N4403), and diodes CR5 (1N4148 or 1N914) and VR1 (1N959B or 1N4738A).
The program ROM (read only memory) at U6 is bad.
The ROM jumpers are incorrectly set for the U6/U2 ROMs installed.
The U9 CPU microprocessor is bad.
The U11 PIA (peripheral interface adapter) is bad.
ANY of the sockets for chips U6, U9, U11 are bad.
The first and last points are probably the most common problems."

#34 4 months ago
Quoted from timab2000:

I have never seen a MPU with a red light, so I learned something today.

Here is my old MPU that came with my Power Play, note the red light. Believe it or not, I managed to resurrect the game using this board -- with a long series of various repairs along the way to keep it running (e.g. corrosion cleanup, repinning, etc), because I was never able to fully neutralize the corrosion. I eventually grew tired of all the issues and put all new boards in. Been playing like a champ every since. I learned a ton working on it though! Anyway, back to the OP...

20190124_185904 (resized).jpg

#35 4 months ago

Yeah that's cool. Thx for posting that. If it were me I would just change out the old Mpu with a new one too.

#36 4 months ago

Can a bad mpu. Board make a coil hum and get. Also I hear the loud clicking sound that you would always hear before it boot up but nothing happen.why would plunging the game in make some light come on the solenoid board and the green light on mpu board solid and the next time not on.dont want to buy mpu board and it be the solenoid board

#37 4 months ago

Do you know there is an on off switch under the cabinet by the your right leg when you're standing in front of the game. You don't need to keep plugging it in and unplugging it.

Chances are your solenoid board is fine because it's a new alltek board but you're mpu board has corrosion that can cause all sorts of things to happen, like we've said.

We've also giving you plenty of information to read as to what can happen if the board is corroded and the green light stays solid. Have you checked out any of the links that we provided for you and read through any of it?

#38 4 months ago

You are saying the board is corroded I had that repair year ago.its been working like that for years.l know there info but it is Chinese to me .is there a simple way to see if the board is bad.I really appreciate all your feedback

#39 4 months ago

Where can I get a new mpu board for Bally power play and cost

#40 4 months ago

What your game is doing is very similar to what mine was doing ie. solid green light on the MPU but the game would not"boot up". Mine had a lot less visible corrosion than yours. I changed the MPU to an Alltek mpu which was virtually plug and play for my 1979 Bally machine. $199 from Marco. Problem solved.

#41 4 months ago

If you're not ready to buy a new MPU you can try cleaning up some of that corrosion -- hit it with some isopropyl alcohol and very fine sandpaper (black) and then rinse again with isopropyl alcohol, and then see if it behaves differently. It's hard to believe that a little corrosion on the surface would have that much effect, but it does, trust me. I battled it for almost three years off & on. It'd be working fine, then it'd get squirrelly again. Pull it out, sand it a little, and it'd come right back to life.

So try that and see how it behaves -- but if that's the problem, then you'll eventually want to give up and buy a new board. I've been there.

#42 4 months ago

You can also get a new board from barakandl

https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

I believe yours is referred to as a -17 (dash 17)

#44 4 months ago

Ok so let me ask you I was playing the game for about 5 games when a loud humming sound for about 5 second and shut off the only thing that worked at that time was light and flippers.the pop up coil is humming and getting hot.replace the coil same thing.now before playing those 5 game I had the rectifier board and selmoib board replaced with new power cord.do you think this did any damage to the mpu board.if I. Utah a new board do I have to do any thing to it.just switch it out.

#46 4 months ago
Caveman (resized).jpg
#47 4 months ago

Disconnect the coil that over heating and power up and see what MPU LEDs are doing

#48 4 months ago

I took one wire off the coil and started the game back up and stlll have the same affect. Was also told since it's humming it can be bad resister on solenoid board.i ask the repair guy why did the fuse not blow to protect the board he said there no protection on Bally machine of this age.is a alltek board. Is this true.checked all fuses and they are good. Would buying a new mpu board stop the coil as it sounds like it energize on.

#49 4 months ago

If you disconnected the wire from the coil and nothing has changed then it's not the coil. the coil can't work without the wires on it. Plus in an eariler post you said the humming stop now you say it's humming again. Which is it???

At this point I am begining to think you out just to waist everyones time. It's the MPU how many more times do you need to be told??

I'm done...next

#50 4 months ago

Should be linked to the not how to ask for help thread.

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