(Topic ID: 112235)

Bally Power Play restore and a SS "newbie"....


By slawnski

6 years ago



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  • 58 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by meSz
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There are 58 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 6 years ago

Just picked up a pin off my wishlist- Bally Power Play. This was the game I grew up with as it was in my grandmothers basement growing up. 3 days a week and every weekend my brother and sisters would play the heck out of that machine- Sadly- when my grandparents passed the machine was sold- lost but not forgotten. This machine was my introduction to pinball!
Fast forward to about 2 hours ago and my brother and I are now owners of a Power Play- I am not new to pinball machines and there refurbishment - but my comfort zone is with EM's. The solid state stuff just freaks me out a bit - Probably has alot to do with my Lucky Seven that took more time and money than I care to admit to get going- and after all that I just wasn't impressed with the game-

But PP is a different story - I have alot of history and memories of this machine and I will be doing this restoration with a great deal of care- the cosmetics I can handle but I'd like some advice on how to keep the electronics in order - as it sits now the game works and plays ok- the PF is really really rough so I will tackle that first. nothing I am too unfamiliar with there- that being said- any precautions with the electronics/boards/ harnesses? I know that Lucky seven had batteries - I didn't notice any on PP but that doesn't mean that they aren't there. if it has batteries, for example- do I get it reassembled at home and plugged in - then change batteries? I apologize for asking such "simple" questions- I just don't know much in the SS area and I don't want to do anything to damage a game that as of right now works and plays- any and all help/ advice is appreciated!

#2 6 years ago

IMG_2393.JPG

#3 6 years ago

IMG_2397.JPG

Like I said PF is Rooooough! but I can handle this ( i think )

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from slawnski:

if it has batteries, for example- do I get it reassembled at home and plugged in - then change batteries?

Cut off the battery from the MPU board - NOW!

Once you start playing the game, that old battery will warm up and puke all over your MPU board, ruining it.

Battery leakage.jpg

#6 6 years ago

Awesome- Thanks vid- I'll get the battery changed - no harm leaving the game unplugged and sitting for several weeks/ couple months - right? no harm letting things sit till the cosmetics are completed?

#7 6 years ago

Just clip the battery off now.

You don't want a change in temperature causing the battery to puke.

You can solder on a remote battery pack at any time in the future.

#8 6 years ago

Congrats on the Power Play. It was my 1st favorite machine back in 78. Good luck. I know it stirs up good memories...........

#9 6 years ago

Ok- so I'm going to clip the battery tonight after work-

As far as a remote pack- what are the options/ recommendations as far as voltage/# of cels, ect?

#10 6 years ago

so a quick search of remote battery brings up a ton of info.... I have a bit of reading/research - I appreciate all the help- this is a great community

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from slawnski:

Ok- so I'm going to clip the battery tonight after work-
As far as a remote pack- what are the options/ recommendations as far as voltage/# of cels, ect?

Here is a good read: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Get_rid_of_that_battery_now.21

#12 6 years ago

congrats on picking up a great, fun game....it looks like it will be a labor of love

love the art on this one...great work by Dave Christensen

#13 6 years ago

Thanks! I think I will really enjoy getting this up and running in our game room!

Quick question re: battery-

Thanks meSz! your BOPP looks flipping awesome!

Regarding this article: One inexpensive option is to replace the Ni-Cad rechargeable battery pack with a 4 AA battery pack plus diode using ordinary alkaline batteries. You must install a blocking diode (1N5817 or 1N4004 work fine) to prevent the game from trying to charge the battery and causing damage. Install the diode in the 1st bay with the banded side soldered to the "+" or RED terminal and the non-banded end to the "-" BLACK negative spring. Having a battery backup will save high scores & credits, and some sound settings. The holder can be mounted in a convenient spot in the backbox, and leads soldered to the MPU and a Molex .062 2 terminal pin and socket connected to the battery holder for easy servicing of the MPU. Mouser P/N 12BH348-GR for the 4 AA pack.

If I use this option- do I install 3 batteries? or does the 4th bay (with the diode) also get a cell installed? Can I make this, install the molex / wiring at either side of the existing battery, plug in the pack- THEN cut the battery off the board to save whatever setting are on the board already? or am I really over thinking this?

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from slawnski:

HEN cut the battery off the board to save whatever setting are on the board already

Don't worry about saving any settings, just cut the old battery off NOW.

#15 6 years ago

I will take care of this as soon as I get back home- I just wasn't sure what gets messed up with the loss of battery power-I am very new to the SS scene and I am a bit apprehensive and worried about screwing something up. I'm getting the feeling the battery/ board damage is much worst than losing data. Thanks for your help on this guys- I'll post when the battery is plucked out...

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from slawnski:

If I use this option- do I install 3 batteries? or does the 4th bay (with the diode) also get a cell installed? Can I make this, install the molex / wiring at either side of the existing battery, plug in the pack- THEN cut the battery off the board to save whatever setting are on the board already? or am I really over thinking this?

3 batteries...the diode uses the space normally occupied by the 4th battery.

#17 6 years ago

Thank you!

#18 6 years ago

I put a memory capacitor on my Mata Hari mpu and no batteries needed. Works fine.

#19 6 years ago

I use 1.5f caps vice batteries on my ss games. Fit right on the board, never need replacement.
GPE, or Big Daddy has them.
Only disadvantage, game needs to be turned on once a month to maintain a charge.

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from Validpowerdetect:

Only disadvantage, game needs to be turned on once a month to maintain a charge.

I have had them go 6 months and still keep the settings. The memory caps are my preference.

#21 6 years ago

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Looks like the battery was replaced- but not before some board damage occurred

image-807.jpgimage-642.jpg

#22 6 years ago
Quoted from slawnski:

Looks like the battery was replaced- but not before some board damage occurred

Yep, get rid of that replacement battery - NOW

#23 6 years ago

It's out......

#24 6 years ago

image.jpg

So that's done. I'll add a remote battery at some point in the restoration. Am ok to leave thing as is now correct?

#25 6 years ago

Fairly clean board there, you're lucky

#26 6 years ago

It's OK that way, you just won't have bookkeeping data saved

#27 6 years ago

Wow you removed that battery just in the nick of time! Once you finish you cosmetics make sure you take a look at vids bulletproofing guide for bally boards to iron out any little quirks it might have. It's awesome. All the guys on pinside are very helpfull I learned so much and I'm a noob too. I'm still doing a lot of cosmetics on my gorgar while waiting for my playfield clearcoat to cure. Good luck

#28 6 years ago

To me it looks like the battery leaked enough to warrant a good clean-up of the board, but since you're newer to the solid state stuff and if the board is working fine right now then it's not *horrible* to use it as-is for a bit. At least gives you the chance to try the game & see if you like it enough to buy another board or attempt to clean it up further. The only thing is, if left as-is it will at some point kick the bucket. Personally I'm not a fan of leaving a machine on & unattended for hours on end if there are corroded boards in it that haven't been dealt with.. in case something locks on or shorts when the mpu eventually goes bad.

---
http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
Kits, upgrades and test equipment for pinball machines

#29 6 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

The only thing is, if left as-is it will at some point kick the bucket.
---

So the corrosion/damage will continue even with the battery removed? UGH

I'll read up on bulletproofing for sure. This is a title that we will be keeping in the family- in fact we are still looking for another 2 machines ( so each sibling has a Power Play in their collection)

I am sure this will be far from the last time I reach out to you guys for help- for now I'm going to complete the cleanup of an EM I have on the bench- then dive into Power Play's cosmetics. Thanks again!

#30 6 years ago
Quoted from slawnski:

So the corrosion/damage will continue even with the battery removed? UGH

You have to do some work to clean it up (Williams example, but you will get the picture):

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

The battery 'acid' is actually alkali, so you clean it with acid (SnoBol ....) to kill it.

You might have to remove components you can't clean under.

You might have to sand away flaky green coating that is hiding corrosion.

You might have to coat over the cleaned areas with nail polish to hinder further corrosion.

#31 6 years ago

Thanks Vid! Holy Moly nice tutorial!!!

With the battery off the board I have some time - right? I have an EM I'm working on and plan to get to Power Play when this one is completed.

#32 6 years ago
Quoted from slawnski:

With the battery off the board I have some time - right?

With the battery removed you are in pretty good shape.

The corrosion will continue slowly. Sometimes you clean it and a little bit comes back a few years later, anyway.

Keep the board cool and dry until you are ready to have a go at it.

#33 6 years ago

Fantastic! I will post the progress!

#34 6 years ago

Good job!

Read up, lot of helpful information here. Make the "reliability" mods and pre-check things such as making sure you have the right value fuses, etc...

http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/

#35 6 years ago

While we're on the topic of corrosion, I use an aviation product called ACF-50 after cleaning.
It prevents further corrosion, and is harmless to the components. vid is right, you gtta get the
Green coating off, or the corrosion will creep around the board.

It wiil flake off easily where the corrosion exists. ACF50 can be had at Aircraft Spruce.

#36 6 years ago

Validpowerdetect- it looks like the ACF-50 would simply be applied to my board where the corrosion is present ( after removing loose green coating) and the material will fill/seep into the misc joints and crevasses to provide the corrosion protection. Is this correct? or am I removing the green and cleaning with vinegar or similar- then applying the ACF-50? as a sealer? sorry for the pesky questions- i just do not know better at this point .

#37 6 years ago

As Guru Vid said, remove green, clean with vinegar, rinse with water, dry for a day,
Apply ACF50. It comes in a spray can that will last forever.

Don't worry about getting it in other places, it won't hurt a thing.
I have used it for years on my plane, and pins.

#38 6 years ago

Thanks! I ordered a can from Aircraft Spruce

3 weeks later
#39 6 years ago

Picked up a used PF a couple weeks ago. as the PF in the game now is really really beat- I am going to take a crack at touching up the donor and clearing it-
IMG_2397.JPG

As you can see the original PF is nasty!

093.JPG

The donor PF is MUCH better

I actually started the process a couple weeks ago as soon as I get the progress pictures uploaded I'll share this part of the journey

#40 6 years ago

076.JPG

Here I made the touch-ups at the kick out hole area that was down to bare wood- and spotted the small pinholes in the red.

Next I mixed up the blue and hit the scratch in the wing part of the skate and the misc pinholes of the blue ( this pic is pre-blue touch-ups)

#41 6 years ago

Sorry for kinda going backwards here- this is the donor PF prior to stripping
022.JPG
Here it is ready for touch-ups
055.JPG

#42 6 years ago

Tons of issues to begin with- I didn't take pictures because I was freaking out- I finished the touch-ups, cleaned the PF, cleaned it again, used a pre-paint prep solvent to clean again- then tented myself in and hit the PF with Eastwoods 2K gloss clear- I should really have misted, and waited a while before hitting with a second, fuller, coat. I had fisheyes galore.... Again I should have taken pictures but I was gutted seeing all the fisheyes.....
105.JPG
So I waited overnight, and block sanded the finish out the next night. Then I sprayed into a cup and I hit the low spots ( fisheyes and cupped inserts) using a pipette- that worked pretty good! Waited a couple days and block sanded out- to get the spots of clear even with the rest of the PF- at this point I am using 320 girt wet/ dry. It is somewhat aggressive and but still took some time to get the surface on the same plane. At this point I then hit with another coat of clear- this coat was a full wet coat from the get- go:

MUCH better this time!

108.JPG

#43 6 years ago

So last night I block sanded again with 320 ( I am using a automotive block sander- very hard rubber )
and assessed the low spots again- several dozen that needed spotting again- so with a nice bright light shining across the sanded PF my son and I hit all the low spots ( still shiny against the matte sanded parts of the PF) with drops of finish on toothpicks

The clear at this point ( before the sanding) has been sitting in the basement for about a week and I was happy with how hard it had gotten in that time.

touchups.jpeg

So here is where we sit as of now- I'll be away from the shop for a few days after tonight. The plan is to sand out the touch-up blobs and let it sit till I can get back- then I'll clean the surface again ( clean the walls of the holes in the PF again as well) then hit it for hopefully the last time with a full wet coat - then wait to buff it our for about a month. That should give me enough time to rebuild the drop banks, flipper assemblies, and gather the courage to swap out the harness and remaining components from the games PF to this one.... oh, I'll need to make a second roticeree as well....

#44 6 years ago

Looking good! Nice to see another BOPP rescued!!! Continue to post pictures as you continue to restore this machine!

#45 6 years ago

I guess it's worth saying here that I used creatix paints for the touch-ups I really liked how well they worked- I did use a paintbrush mostly and only frisketed/sprayed the white at the top of the ball arch... the whites on this game are yellowed a bit and although I thought I adjusted right the ball arch looked waaaay too white.

I ended up hitting it again with a wash of transparent yellow and it matches enough for a part of the PF that will be under the plastics up there. Every white section of this PF was just a little bit different than the next, and for whatever reason I found that to be the worst part of the experience. It was for this reason that I did NOT respray all the whites on the PF- a choice, looking back, I might change on the next PF I do. I halted the idea of re-spraying all the white areas- but the areas in question that I did not hit will be under plastics.

So that's it so far- I'll post more progress as I get more done.

#46 6 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Looking good! Nice to see another BOPP rescued!!! Continue to post pictures as you continue to restore this machine!

Thank you I definitely will- I appreciate the heads up on the donor PF! I'd still be masking and painting that original one if I had to keep it.

#47 6 years ago

Great progress. Power Play was my fave when I was 12. Never got tired of it. Found one locally that had been in a tractor trailer for 25+ yrs. Keep up the good work. My playfield is ok but not as nice as your replacement. Good luck.............

#48 6 years ago
Quoted from pinkid:

Great progress. Power Play was my fave when I was 12. Never got tired of it. Found one locally that had been in a tractor trailer for 25+ yrs. Keep up the good work. My playfield is ok but not as nice as your replacement. Good luck.............

Thank you!

Same here! I played this title in my grandmothers basement growing up! The plan is ultimately to have a Power Play in each of my siblings homes (this on is my younger brothers game)

I might try my hand at repairing/ painting/ clearing the original one in the game now after I remove it for the swap. If it turns out ok I'll do another swap with the refurbished PF when the next PP comes to my house... but that task goes toward the end of the line as I have a few more games to take care of and possibly sell to make room.

#49 6 years ago
Quoted from slawnski:

It was for this reason that I did NOT respray all the whites on the PF- a choice, looking back, I might change on the next PF I do. I halted the idea of re-spraying all the white areas- but the areas in question that I did not hit will be under plastics.

It's looking great! I have to admit fresh white under the plastics does look really nice and if I were you I probably would have masked and painted those areas. But you can certainly use LEDs and make it brighter that way.

Quoted from slawnski:

That should give me enough time to rebuild the drop banks, flipper assemblies, and gather the courage to swap out the harness and remaining components from the games PF to this one.... oh, I'll need to make a second roticeree as well....

You don't need a second rotisserie. Just unscrew/unstaple everything from the original playfield and slide it over to the new one. Everything will pretty much line up where it's supposed to be. Don't worry about needing courage...it's like a puzzle, not difficult, just very time consuming.

#50 6 years ago

Thanks for posting all of your progress on this pin. This was our first pin that we purchased just a few months ago. All of the free information will hopefully help me keep mine alive for many years.

Working on any other restorations?

Keep up the good work.

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