(Topic ID: 292210)

Bally Power Module Help Needed - Xenon won't boot

By Black_Knight

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by G-P-E
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

9B730079-DB83-49D9-82A2-B79F865E2CA1 (resized).jpeg
0BF9CF21-E69F-40E4-B283-6B3FDC9D7B33 (resized).jpeg
#1 3 years ago

Cleaned up my Xenon the other day, including vacuuming out the cab. It has been flawless for over 5 years, now the machine won't boot, the sound board puts out a howl, and the displays flicker very weak.

Xenon has the power module/ rectifier board in the lower cabinet.

My high voltage DC circuit @ test point 2 is only putting out 152 volts instead of the 220 it is supposed to.
All other test points are good.

I have done the following:

- Checked and cleaned the F2 fuse and fuse holder. I have 0 resistance across the fuse solder joints, so both are good. Also checked the other fuses and test good.
- Tested the 4 Diodes and the resistor, test good. This circuit uses didoes instead of a bridge rectifier
- Tested continuity from both input pins on J5 to the single output pin on J4, multimeter shows 650 and 625 with the diode test, this is close to the individual tests on each of the diode (not sure what that means other than there is a drop in power)
- Visually inspected the transformer and wiring and cannot see anything. The two red input wires are from the input side of the transformer/power line. Can I test these before plugging back in to the power board? Where do I ground them to get a good AC reading?

I am at a loss for what to do at this point. I assume the issue is the high voltage circuit, but any suggestions or help is appreciated.

0BF9CF21-E69F-40E4-B283-6B3FDC9D7B33 (resized).jpeg0BF9CF21-E69F-40E4-B283-6B3FDC9D7B33 (resized).jpeg9B730079-DB83-49D9-82A2-B79F865E2CA1 (resized).jpeg9B730079-DB83-49D9-82A2-B79F865E2CA1 (resized).jpeg
#2 3 years ago

I think you’re barking up the wrong tree. The HV section wouldn’t keep you from booting up. Do you get any flashes on the mpu?

#3 3 years ago

I hear ya. Was focused on that board since I hadn't opened the head until after it went bad and the PinWiki steps and it suggested getting the rectifier board working 100% before moving on. I'll skip it for now.

Should have mentioned it's an Alltek MPU board.

I get no flashing on the MPU. Solid Self test light and Solid 5v light. Manual suggest checking 45V if the light is solid, but it checked fine.

The test Points on the MPU are good except for TP5 - VMA, I get 0. This is Valid Memory Address?

On the Solenoid board, I have 12 v and just over 4 v at the test points.

The speaker was a loud low humming, not a howl.

#4 3 years ago

The next step if all your voltages are present is to plug in the solenoid driver board and unplug all the other boards. This is where both the 5v is created for the rest of the boards, and where high voltage is controlled using the pot. See if you get the proper readings here.

This has some great information in it even though this pre dates xenon. The power module and vocalizer board are not included in this but the mpu lamp driver and solenoid driver board are:

http://files.arcadeinfo.de/Anleitungen%20Flipper/Bally%20Electronic%20Pinball%20Games%20Repair%20Procedures%20F.O.%20560-1.pdf

#5 3 years ago

Trying unplugging the sound board and see if it boots.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

I hear ya. Was focused on that board since I hadn't opened the head until after it went bad and the PinWiki steps and it suggested getting the rectifier board working 100% before moving on. I'll skip it for now.
Should have mentioned it's an Alltek MPU board.
I get no flashing on the MPU. Solid Self test light and Solid 5v light. Manual suggest checking 45V if the light is solid, but it checked fine.
The test Points on the MPU are good except for TP5 - VMA, I get 0. This is Valid Memory Address?
On the Solenoid board, I have 12 v and just over 4 v at the test points.
The speaker was a loud low humming, not a howl.

When the game is turned on how many times does the mpu self test flash?

#7 3 years ago

MPU test points are good
Solenoid test points are good (well 4v like noted earlier). Tested this as the only board plugged in and with all boards plugged in.
I Disconnected the sound board a long time ago
No flashes at all, just solid green LEDs on MPU

Thanks for the link, I've been looking for something like that.

#8 3 years ago

So then if the solenoid driver is showing 4v on the test points, that isn't going to boot the mpu. So I would check/reseat J3 on the SDB to see if the voltage improves. If it doesn't then swap solenoid driver boards with a different game to see if it is the SDB. If voltage is still low and the connector J3 has been recently rebuilt, then its the power module.

#9 3 years ago

OK it is 4.3V, but that makes sense.

This is my first bally work and I'm a little confused by the schematics. (williams diagrams of the time are way easier to understand)

The un regulated 5V on the power board is tested at TP 3 @ 12v. It is Pin 10 on connector J3 on the power board. If that corresponds to pin 10 J3 on the Solenoid board, then those connections look good and tight. I'll test it on that end next.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

My high voltage DC circuit @ test point 2 is only putting out 152 volts instead of the 220 it is supposed to.
All other test points are good.

A lot of digital multi-meters will only read around 150V at TP2 on the rectifier board. You can ignore this.

If you're only getting 4V out of the 5V regulator, the DC voltage going into the regulator may have lost its filtration.
Measure the voltage directly on the large C23 filter capacitor on the solenoid driver board: black meter probe on the negative capacitor leg, red meter probe on the positive capacitor leg. You should measure somewhere between 14 - 16 volts DC.

Suggest re-soldering the heat stressed solder joints on the rectifier board at fuse F3 and diodes CR5, CR6, CR7 and CR8.

#11 2 years ago

Ok I cleaned the # 10 pin of J3 on the solenoid board for the 12v input. It is now working. Didn’t notice anything before but it was a little corroded/burnt and none of the others were.

It’ll need repined but works for now. Thx for all the advice.

#12 2 years ago

Common problem for that pin to go bad (my Xenon did this too).
Add three jumpers to bottom of driver alleviate this issue in the future -- especially jumper "B" in your case.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Upgrades

And definitely re-pin the plug to J3.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
1,800
Machine - For Sale
Cape Coral, FL
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 15.00
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
 
$ 15.00
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Newcastle, OK
$ 40.00
Lighting - Led
NorthStar Mods
 
$ 25.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 179.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 40.00
Lighting - Led
NorthStar Mods
 
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 5.00
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Jeffersonville, IN
$ 9.00
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
 
$ 82.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-power-module-help-needed-xenon-won-t-boot and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.