Playboy
Bally, 1978You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dieseldogpi.
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I have a 1978 Bally Playboy that has no sound. Everything else works fine. The volages test points on the board are fine except TP5, which i saw listed as 43vdc, but as a solenoid return (Not sure what that means and I get 0 volts). I do hear white noise when making it louder, but no actual sounds are played. The part number on the board is AS-2888-3. Is this supposed to be a -1 board? I have a logic probe, how can I check if the IC's are functioning? Thanks!
Thanks for the response. In your pic the board number is 2888-1, mine has the -3 version. Could that be why there is no sound?
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:If the board has ever been shorted, it is possible to kill the chip with the sounds on it. That would be U-3 in the upper left hand corner. Possible, but not likely. Do you have a multimeter to check the diodes with? It is much more likely to be one of them.
I do have a multimeter. I will go trough everything tonight. I will report back. Thanks so much for the info! A huge help!
Quoted from Quench:Some more things to check since you have a logic probe:
The foundation of sound on the board comes from a high speed oscillator that is generated at IC U1.
With your logic probe:
a) Check the output of the oscillator at pin 4 of U1. It should be constantly pulsing.
b) In game mode, put the logic probe on pin 3 of U7. It should be low. When you press a switch to play a sound, this pin should briefly pulse high basically allowing sound to get to the amplifiers.
c) Check that pins 9 and 11 of U11 are pulsing when playing sounds.
d) The output pins of U4 and U5 should also be pulsing when playing sounds.
Report back if any of these pins aren't pulsing.
So I started going through this process. I setthe game into sound test mode, pin 4 of U1 was pulsing, but the pins on u11 were not in test mode.
Making the volume pot maxed out, I hear a faint repeating rythum in the background. In guessing it is doing something.
Thecaps on the board look original. Should I start with replacing those?
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:If the board has ever been shorted, it is possible to kill the chip with the sounds on it. That would be U-3 in the upper left hand corner. Possible, but not likely. Do you have a multimeter to check the diodes with? It is much more likely to be one of them.
I went through the board and looked at the solder joints with a jewelry loop. Everything seemed fine. Still need to test the diodes.
Quoted from Quench:Since you can hear something faint, one of the amplifiers might be playing up.
The sound test in service mode plays the game over tune. If you remember it, is that what you hear?
To quickly check audio amps, a good tip from barakandl is to hold the metal part of a pointy screw driver and carefully touch the input pin on each amplifier with it. You should hear hum/noise through the speakers when you do this. Be prepared incase it's loud!
U10 is the final output amp device. Pin 2 is used as the input pin on it.
U9 is the pre-amp device. Pin 2 is also used as the input pin on it. These are a common failure item I believe. Keep the following post in mind incase it's faulty:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playboy-as-2518-32-sound-probs#post-3159929
BTW, did you get any high pulses on pin 3 of U7?
Ok. So I just checked pin 3 of u7, and I got high pulsing when it was in test mode. The high pulse follows the super faint rythum tick I hear from the speaker when the volume pot is all the way up. I checked pin 2 of u9 and got that interference in the speaker. same with pin 2 on u10. Again, u4 and u5 had pulsing on pin 11, but u11 did not have pulsing. Thanks again with all of this.
There is a video of what it is doing. The ticking actually got louder when I was checking u11. Maybe I accidently touched two pins and made it worse (or better?).
Quoted from Quench:The outputs of U11 are the final tones to be mixed and played. If you're not getting any pulsing on those outputs, let's step backwards and check whether it's being fed anything.
Check for pulsing on the outputs of the following:
Pin 12 of U4 --> This goes to the input (pin 1) of U11
Pin 12 of U5
While you're there, check for pulsing on some of the outputs of the PROM at U3. Say for eg. pins 1, 3, 5 and 9.
Lastly also check the outputs of the first chip in the chain that latches which sound to select. These are pins 3, 9, 12 and 15 on U2
The clicking you're getting is probably from the 555 chip at U7 that's briefly enabling sounds - in your case it's just sounding like clicks because your board isn't generating tones. For the moment, presume that the 555 chip at U7 is ok.
BTW, have you tried rotating the sustain pot a few times in case it's dirty? Return it to the position it's at after rotating.
U4 pin 12 is stuck on low, u5 pin 12 is stuck on high.
U3 is pulsing fine on the pins you mentioned.
U2 is pulsing fine except I'm not getting pulsing on pin9. I'm getting pulsing on pin 10.
I did try messing with both pots. For volume and sustain. No change.
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