Quoted from Macdaddy1974:

I have overlays that I would sell they look awesome pm if interested

Quoted from tatman9999:

Few pics of playfield[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from tomdrum:

Anyone need a cabinet stencil set?

Quoted from dahlman:

Hi all!
Looking for a hires picture of the Bally Playboy backglass.
Any help appreciated.

Quoted from Clnilsen:

So just found out I am joining this club! My (awesome) wife is getting me a project Playboy for Christmas.
I haven’t seen it yet, but I know the bg is roasted and I need a new one. Any opinions on the Classic repo’s?
I’m sure I’ll have more questions - I know it boots, but past that no idea yet on it.

Quoted from Callaway:

Sound issues! I have some problems with the sound on my Playboy. When the ball is in the grotto for example, the last tone of the melody is missing. The same when i start the game and when i launch a new game. Does someone know what it can be? I have new alltek mpu, lamp and solenoid board.

Quoted from tomdrum:

Has anyone gotten one of the newest CPR PF's that are digitally produced for Playboy?

Quoted from Absolutebaldness:

Hey folks I am new to the club and just restored my machine, what is the correct playfield pitch?

Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

Just finished cabinet resto for fellow Pinsider...... Another PB back to life. Definitely one of the most pretty pinball cabinets as far as Art/Colors go made in that era.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Clnilsen:

For those of you who have refinished your cabinet, it looks like Rustoleum 2x magenta is the winner for the cabinet pink. However, it looks like it's only available in satin. Any ideas for a pink of the right color, that has gloss finish?
Thanks!

Quoted from Clnilsen:

Did you do the black satin as well, or gloss? White I assume is gloss...

Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

The one pictured above that I restored is Semi Gloss White, Semi Gloss Black & then Satin Magenta. It really dries much closer to a semi gloss with a fairly heavy final coat. I've done two of them now & have a 3rd here for resto currently.... they look amazing with the magenta.
Everyone thinks that PB cab was more "pink" but thats just because they all faded very bad. Once you pull the side rails off, that Magenta is the closest color to original you will find in a spray can. If anything it is just SLIGHTLY darker than original.
If you wanna that ultra high gloss non original look to game, just clear coat it when done. Some people like the clear look, some don't. I think its OK on some games & overdone on others. I have cleared several games I have restored, but PB is not one I'd do in clear, unless the owner really really pushed for it. I think PB looks very "tasteful" in Semi gloss & not cleared.

Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Here is a photo of my repaint. The white is simi-gloss rustoleum that was put on with a gun. The black is gloss rattle can and the pink is magenta satin rattle can.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Clnilsen:

Freshly painted cabinet project this weekend for my wife and I!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from jj44114:

I think the flyer shows yellow

Quoted from Dandelock:

What is the stock flipper rubber color for this game? I've seen red and yellow. I ordered a rubber kit from Marco Specialities and it came with yellow, but it also came with a Bally Playboy sticker/barcode on the bag but a a Stern Playboy rubber instruction sheet inside the bag. Googling images it looks like a lot of both colors, maybe slightly more red.

Quoted from Dandelock:

Right thread, and yeah it looks like they mixed up the kit. I bought 2 kits which came in the same bag and ironically I followed the manual for my machine and at least had enough for one full replacement and it looks like two full replacements. Possible the Stern version has a similar enough rubber set except the flipper color. I'll just order a Bally Playboy kit from someone else when I have to change the rubbers and keep this weird kit as a spare.

Quoted from Smac007:

Hey all, looking for some recommendations, I got a Bally playboy at an auction awhile back. They had it powered up, all that worked was most light bulbs. It’s not in horrible shape but was the home for some mice for some time. I’m a pinball rookie but am gonna attempt a full restore on it, it will be great to see it back in great working order. When powered up I get all seven test flashes on Main board but no sound or follow up. No displays, not much else. Ill post some photos, one of the main issues is on the solenoid board there is a complete burn through on the board by the relay. My question is if I have to replace that board should I just change them all out to alltek boards or just go one board at a time once I start putting it all back together?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Clnilsen:

On the subject of playfield wear, I put in my drop targets, and looking at how the ball will ride, does it look like my drop targets are aligned relative to the hole? Is there some kind of Cliffy that should go here? Looking at this, it looks like the ball could also get caught in the slot with all the targets down?
Also, it looks like my drop targets are “low” but I checked the height relative to the original and they were pretty close.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Clnilsen:

For those of you who have done a playfield swap, any idea on a Source for the nails that attach the right side stainless ball guide to the side rail? I don’t think a small truss screw would work; too thick?
Thanks!

Quoted from GPS:

For those that put LED’s under their playfields, what did you choose? Did you color match them to the inserts or just go warm or cool white on the underside?
Thinking of using yoppsicles on the bottom of the playfield. He makes a version that will work directly with an original Bally light board which is what I have. Seems a lot neater and cleaner than the socket and bulb way. Thoughts please fellas!!
Thank you
George

Quoted from Clnilsen:

Oof I don’t think I Explained myself well here. I meant these….[quoted image]

Quoted from Ptav:

Hello folks- how do you join the playboy club?

Quoted from GPS:

Ok. Went back down to make sure I was not being a dumb ass again. Looks like the way it is all in there is correct. The rod tips back to release the glass and forward to lock the glass in place (by minimizing how high the glass can be raised). Ok. All seems good now except that the lock will only rotate slightly, not enough to remove the key. Maybe I have the wrong lock? Could Steve be wrong??? If I could remove the key I think we would be good but I cannot rotate the lock enough to do that

Quoted from GPS:

Ok guys. Got it. I was mistaken on how the mech works. I discovered that it either lays back towards the rear of the back box or that it is vertical in the front. This is when I figured out that the lock had to be in backwards as when it was in locked position I could not remove the key.
Wouldn’t have gotten this far this evening guys without you. Many thanks!!!
George

Quoted from Flash71:

<blockquote

It’s from the original flyer for the pin. I have one. Make me an offer.

Quoted from Clnilsen:

Playfield swap testing in progress! Getting very close!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from GPS:

Hi Fellas
Ok removed the old MPU and put a new Alltek in. I now have startup tones and new XPin displays are working.
I have the Alltek board configured for free play. However when I depress the start button, new switch installed there, game does not start. Also, upon game powering up the knocker stays locked on. Did this before with the old original MPU and is still doing so with the new Alltek MPU.
Any guidance here would be most appreciated. Have EddiePi assisting with this game and am fortunate to have his expertise but in between low and when he is avail, was hoping to gain some additional direction to help narrow things down.
Thank you as always. Making headway!! Yippee

Quoted from jbovenzi:

I'm out of touch. 2 years or so ago this would have been a $600 machine

Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

That is a clear product that is on top of the art. Sounds like clearcoat to me. At least it was clear until it yellowed. Clearcoat is a generic term but most now recognize it as being automotive 2 part clear. With all the new products today you need to be more specific than "clearcoat".

Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

UPDATE:
special now works, extra ball still not working
found teh S33 reset button and now have the high score to date and the two scores (400 and 660K) set for replays
But...
i screwed something up and reset the credits (was showing 775515, reset to 0) and now cannot play game. S 17/18/19 turned ON - still shows 0 credits, no matter what i change 17/18/19 to.
Any thoughts on what to do/make this work...how to clear the memory? Someone said someone named Hibler may have worked on the MPU. I can always wait till Alltek board comes in.
Sigh

Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

checked with chris - was not his work on the board. Dip switches 17/18/19 easy to find...they are all on. still shows 0 credits, even after machine turned on and off.
I have checked/double checked - extra ball lights up, touch the rollover for it, but SAME PLAYER SHOOT AGAIN does not light up, and next player shoots when ball drains. Figuring i am the dipstick who did not set it right, but can't figure out which one to switch.

Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

Thank you...Please see above...I have set switches 17/18/19 as ON to add 40 credits. Still shows 0 . Same happens when I change 17 to off for 35 credits stop shows 0.
I have the original manuals that came with the machine, have read them, and verified the dip switches.
At this point thinking whoever modified the MPU poor in a custom ROM, and with our a ROM chip reader/writer I will have to wait till my Alltek boards get here.

Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

thanks - now I just need to learn how to adjust that switch and spoon
Will see if there are any videos or guides that show hot do to that

Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

saw it - the spoon is centered. The issue is the ball actually drop through the lane, but misses the skirt/bumper completely. I may replace the two posts to the left of Key 1 to see if that will help - really need to move those posts 1/6 - 1/8 inch to the right, or put something behind rubber to have it keep the ball to the right and hit the bumper.
Am I th eonly one with this issue in Key 1?

Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

Maybe it's level left to right, andooking to the right may cause key 4 balls to miss it's bumper

Quoted from electricsquirrel:

Need help with my Playboy!
The kickout on the grotto is weak. sometimes it takes three or four tries before the ball comes out.
Everything seems to be fine mechanically. I've gone over it several times.
where do I look next?
Thanks!
E