(Topic ID: 278384)

Bally Pinball Must Warm Up for 20-30 Minutes Before It's Playable

By madaracs

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 years ago by madaracs
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#1 3 years ago

I've got a Mr.& Mrs. Pac-Man Pinball that has been having some issues when turning it on. It doesn't post. So no startup sounds, though there is an audible hiss from the speaker, and the big red light on the playfield. Wait about 20-30 minutes, turn it off and on again, and it starts up just fine and appears to play as normal.

Potentially some cold solder joints or bad connectors is what I'm guessing. I'm assuming I'll get some advice on soldering headers and re-pinning connectors.

If someone has specifics--such as this is a mainboard problem or something I might not be thinking of, that's what I'm here for!

I'll gladly take advice for some basic tips on bulletproofing connectors (where to source parts, technique, etc.) on a Bally machine. If there's another post on this, please don't shoot the messenger and feel free to point me in that direction.

Cheers, and thanks for the help everyone.

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#2 3 years ago

Probably time to rebuild the solenoid driver board at a minimum to get it reliable.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from madaracs:

and the big red light on the playfield

That is normal for a Mr&Mrs Pacman: If the computer is crashed, the left/red ghost light is locked on, so this is only a symptom of your MPU not booting.

#4 3 years ago

Check output from +5 regulator and make sure there is no ripple on the line (set meter to AC, should have little or no voltage). Just went through this on a Frontier and this was my same situation albeit more intermittent.

#5 3 years ago

Almost always when the game needs warming up before booting, the problem is in the power supply filter capacitor. So, replace C23 on solenoid driver board. You can use either 10,000 uF or 15,000 uF, at least 20V capacitor.

#6 3 years ago

What does the LED om the MPU do when the game does not boot? If it's not doing anything then you are probably looking at a power related problem.

2 weeks later
#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Tuukka:

Almost always when the game needs warming up before booting, the problem is in the power supply filter capacitor. So, replace C23 on solenoid driver board. You can use either 10,000 uF or 15,000 uF, at least 20V capacitor.

That cap is only six years old but I'll check it out.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:What does the LED om the MPU do when the game does not boot? If it's not doing anything then you are probably looking at a power related problem.

MPU led blinks twice then turns off and stays off.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from madaracs:

MPU led blinks twice then turns off and stays off.

That's your 5101.... replace with nvram.

#10 3 years ago

If it takes a few minutes before the 5101 power on self test passes I would investigate the 12v to 5v dropping resistor on the MPU. In the bottom left area of the MPU there is a resistor larger than the rest? Is it burned. Check resistance?

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

If it takes a few minutes before the 5101 power on self test passes I would investigate the 12v to 5v dropping resistor on the MPU. In the bottom left area of the MPU there is a resistor larger than the rest? Is it burned. Check resistance?

That resistor appears to be good.

Quoted from slochar:

That's your 5101.... replace with nvram.

I was just about to post--I found another post where someone's 5101 was bad.

I have an NVRAM replacement in that socket. I removed the NVRAM it was the same behavior--or maybe nothing at all I can't remember. When I carefully reinserted the NVRAM replacement chip the pin booted as expected.

As an aside, when I re-seated the chip into the socket, I did not push it into the socket all the way. I just gently inserted it *almost* all the way into the socket. Boot tested it a bunch of times with no issues. Letting it "cool" to test it again but I'd surmise I have a problem with the socket for the NVRAM.

That 22 pin socket was replaced in 2014 with a machined pin socket before I purchased the pinball machine. The socket appears to have been pieced together from 4 or so segments of machine pin sockets. So it's not two uninterrupted 11 pin rows. I'm guessing the guy who I bought it from just used what they had on hand to put a new socket in. (Admittedly, I've done that when I've been in a pinch.) Worked pretty well for 6 years. I'm wondering if there is some "give" between the pin sockets--and when it warms up it's working--like the equivalent of a cold solder joint.

So weird that it booted fine for several years and then just over the last year started misbehaving.

I'll replace the 5101 socket with a dual wipe. (And the 24 pin sockets too while I'm at it--the 6810 came out a little too easy.)

We'll call this fixed.

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions!

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