(Topic ID: 204288)

Bally Pinball - Embryon - All Displays Are Blank (and partly on fire)

By pinlink

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by pinlink
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 6 years ago

    Update: see post #8 . I swapped in a working solenoid driver board and the displays are working so the issue is on the SDB. Just not sure what that issue is.

    My displays were working OK before this started other than they would all constantly flicker but you could still read the scores.

    I noticed that display for Player 2 was illegible so I grabbed a spare display (unknown if working at the time) and swapped it in (while the game was still on) and it worked. So I then powered off the game to properly mount this new display into the game.

    When I turned the game back on, to my surprise no displays at all were working. So I checked the wiring and everything seemed as it was before I swapped this display.

    Following the troubleshooting steps from pinwiki and Steve Kulpa, I then checked F2 on the rectifier board and it tested good. Then the fuse on the Solenoid driver board, and it also tested good. In fact, all fuses everywhere are good.

    I then measured TP2 on the Solenoid driver board and am only getting 2VDC and it should be 170VDC. According to the pinwiki this may be a problem with the regulator. However, I then swapped in a known working Solenoid Driver board and got the same results. But also when I fired the game up the new display that I swapped in CAUGHT ON FIRE! Well, part of it anyway (pic below). So I flip off the game immediately and swapped back in the original illegible display. When I fired the game up again, no fire this time, but still no displays are working. So now I have swapped back all boards and displays and starting from the beginning. I did notice that the fuse on the known working solenoid board that i swapped in blew when I had it in the Embryon. However, the fuse on the original board is good, I replaced it anyway but same results.

    I measured TP2 on the Rectifier Board and am only getting 150VDC when it should be 230. Could this also be causing the issue of only reading 2VDC on the solenoid driver board at TP2?

    I also swapped in a known working rectifier board into the game, and I am getting the same results.

    What should I look at or try next?

    Link to repair page. see "All displays are blank" section.
    http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/bally_disp6r.htm

    Pic of display part that caught fire when I fired the game up.
    FullSizeRender (resized).jpgFullSizeRender (resized).jpg

    #2 6 years ago

    Have you checked what the AC coming into the rectifier board is?

    Also, instead of measuring the dc at the test point, use the other side of that resistor, sometimes the resistor throws it off.

    Other things, #1 don't unplug displays with the game on and I'd probably leave the displays unplugged till you're getting proper voltages again

    #3 6 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    Have you checked what the AC coming into the rectifier board is?

    Yes, TP4 is measuring 6VAC

    Quoted from zacaj:

    Also, instead of measuring the dc at the test point, use the other side of that resistor, sometimes the resistor throws it off.

    If I understand what you are saying, it is measuring about the same.

    Quoted from zacaj:

    Other things, #1 don't unplug displays with the game on and I'd probably leave the displays unplugged till you're getting proper voltages again

    Yeah, as soon as I unplugged the display with the game on i knew that was probably a bad idea. Lesson learned.

    #4 6 years ago

    I tested the test points on the displays themselves and I have +5V but on the high voltage TP I am getting about 2V.

    So the problem is I am not getting high voltage then? Does that start with the rectifier board? When I swapped in the know working rectifier board, the problem remained the same.

    #5 6 years ago
    Quoted from pinlink:

    Yes, TP4 is measuring 6VAC

    Sorry, didn't describe that well. The transformer should be sending 173VAC into the bridge rectifier formed by C1-4 via E5+6. The bridge should then change that into the high voltage DC, which is connected to R3. The other side of R3 is connected to TP2, but sometimes readings though R3 can be off, so I recommend checking the DC at the other side of R3 or the output of the bridge rectifier (banded end of CR1).

    Check voltages on the rectifier board with J1+3 unplugged in case one of the other boards is just pulling the voltage down.

    If you're not even getting the 173VAC take out F2 to disconnect the AC coming from the transformer from the bridge rectifier in case that's bad. At a minimum with the fuse out you should definitely get 173VAC at E5+6, otherwise you've got a transformer or wiring issue.

    #6 6 years ago

    OK I am following most of that. I am not sure where E5+6 are though. I don't see any E's on the bridge rectifier board.

    The voltages at R3 are maybe 10V higher than at TP2 (around 160VDC) but still nowhere near where it should be.

    With J1+3 unplugged, I am getting the same voltage readings on the test points.

    I am able to get a reading of 180VAC on one side of CR1. Hope that helps.

    #7 6 years ago

    when putting an unknown display in a game it is always best to check all 3 testpoints against each other for shorts , believe me , i learned the hard way .

    #8 6 years ago

    Quick update. The problem is on the Solenoid Driver Board.

    I swapped in the known working Solenoid Driver Board again and the displays are working. I swapped it back in because I realized that when the display caught fire it blew the fuse on the board and I did not replace the fuse before testing it again.

    So at least now I know that the problem is on the solenoid driver.

    #9 6 years ago
    Quoted from pinlink:

    Quick update. The problem is on the Solenoid Driver Board.
    I swapped in the known working Solenoid Driver Board again and the displays are working. I swapped it back in because I realized that when the display caught fire it blew the fuse on the board and I did not replace the fuse before testing it again.
    So at least now I know that the problem is on the solenoid driver.

    Were the voltages on the displays correct though with the board? The displays will still 'work' on a wide range of voltages but you'll be stressing them out

    Either way the next step is probably just to do a full hv section rebuild on the driver board.

    #10 6 years ago

    Fixed! I replaced the transistor (the one with the star shaped heat sink) and now everything is working!

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