(Topic ID: 203020)

Bally Paragon HELP!?!?

By HerNameWasLola

6 years ago


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#4 6 years ago

First step will be to check the voltages at all the test points

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Since you have the glow on the displays, your high voltage section is likely good

It could have failed and be putting too high of a voltage through too.

#10 6 years ago

You can leave the batteries disconnected. They're there for storing high scores and settings.

Besides from the voltages, there's an led on the mpu that should flash seven times. If the mpu has a problem the amount if flashes will help tell you what is wrong.

Alltek makes drop in replacements for all the bally games, so if once your voltages are all correct the machine still doesn't boot properly, they're a good alternative to trying to repair the board yourself. Depending on the amount of corrosion it may not be worth trying to fix it anyway

Quoted from wayout440:

Yes, but that won't cause a lack of display characters, just prematurely burn out the display

You said a glow implies the HV section is good, which is not the case. Since there is a glow, we know that the problem causing the displays not to show digits is with the MPU, not the high voltage, but it doesn't mean that the HV section is good.

1 week later
#16 6 years ago
Quoted from HerNameWasLola:

Right ok thanks, it does appear that this has been totally bodged !! uuhhhhh ! so would anyone have a wiring diagram that I could follow as now I don't know where the cables are ment to go?!?!? I've just traced cable from J3-8 from the power supply (orange) think this is ment to go to J3-12 of the solenoid driver board however it has been cut off and does not connect anywhere! also there is a link on that connector that looks suspect???

There's a manual and schematics on ipdb if you don't have a hard copy. One page of the schematics just lists all the connectors and where they should go, along with the wire colors

#26 6 years ago

Depending on shipping one of these http://nvram.weebly.com/ might be worth it

#28 6 years ago
Quoted from HerNameWasLola:

Whilst playing the Q3 light on the solenoid board turns red

Just at random? As soon as you hit something specific?

#30 6 years ago

Does the outhole switch register in switch test? It may just kick the ball out whether or not it knows it's in there when you first start a game

#32 6 years ago
Quoted from HerNameWasLola:

Yeah that's what I was thinking, how do I do a switch test?? sorry if that's a silly question!?!

There's a description of each of the tests in the manual. Tests are accessed via the red button inside the coin door. Switch test is, if I remember correctly, the fourth test. It'll show the switch number of the lowest number switch that is closed. There should be a diagram of switches with their numbers and locations in there as well

#34 6 years ago
Quoted from HerNameWasLola:

Ok thanks, switch test is 5 presses but it does not display anything?!?!? also when I press it 3 times for the solenoid test I get Q3 flashing red again!! I though that Alltek MPU card and solenoid card would solve all my problems!! heheh wrong again!!

Switch test should at least display 0 in the ball in play counter if no switches are closed. If it's not then there's a problem. The previous tests all seem to operate fine?

Q3 flashing red means that the driver board thinks one of the coils is bad, in this case the knocker judging by the schematics. Take a look at it, make sure it measures at least a few ohms across the coil with the resistance test on your multimeter. If it's bad just clip the single wire going to one side to disable it.

#36 6 years ago
Quoted from HerNameWasLola:

OK I've found the issue with the Q3 light flashing red on the solenoid board. There was a solenoid screwed to the base of the machine (next to the speaker) that appeared to do nothing but this coil was bad, so I disconnected it now I have no Red flashing LEDs. So the only issue is that the machine does not recognise when the ball is lost down the centre!! I've checked the switch with my DMM and have 0 Ohms when operated, I also checked the small diode that is across the switch using the DMM and that tests correct also. I will continue checking things but does anyone have any ideas????? Thanks

Check if any other switches in the same row or column also don't work.

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