(Topic ID: 315426)

Bally Paragon 1979 | Bottom Pop Bumper won't activate

By Zatherdon

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Zatherdon
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

Hey everyone,

I've been working on my Bally Paragon for a little bit now. It was in secure storage for a few decades, but it's in pretty good shape despite that. I've got everything working except the bottom left pop bumper.

20220516_111509 (resized).jpg20220516_111509 (resized).jpg

Here's a look at the coil itself and solenoid driver board

20220516_111558 (resized).jpg20220516_111558 (resized).jpg

20220516_111523 (resized).jpg20220516_111523 (resized).jpg

And here's the solenoid drive diagram for that board

Board Diagram (resized).pngBoard Diagram (resized).png

What I've tested:

1. I put the machine in switch test mode and tested the bumper switch, it read it with no issue, and I double checked that it was displaying the correct switch number on screen

2. I put the machine in solenoid test mode, the bumper coil does not fire.

3. I manually fired the coil by grounding the Q2 transistor, the coil does fire reliably.

4. I removed the driver board and tested the transistor with a multimeter, diode reading was between .4 / .6, and was about the same as the rest of the transistors.

5. I did a quick test of the related diode and resistors, I came up with similar results to the other working resistors and diodes. However, I wasn't able to find concreate information on how to do these test, so they may have been done incorrectly.

Additional Information:

After I removed the board to check the Q2 transistor, when I put the board back in, the bottom bumper coil was suddenly working. It fired in both sensor and solenoid testing modes, however, when I started a game it stopped working. When I rebooted the machine, it was no longer firing at all. I've removed the board a few times now, but it's only happen the first time.

This is the last major issue this machine has, so please help me anyway you can so I can play a nice game of pinball.

#2 1 year ago

Repin the SDB connectors they look OE. Biggest problem with Bally SS games the .100 connectors, they are usually the issue.

#3 1 year ago

I've heard that from a couple places now, currently getting the parts to re-pin them. In the mean time are there any other things I could try / a way to test if my issue is related to the connectors?

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from Zatherdon:

I've heard that from a couple places now, currently getting the parts to re-pin them. In the mean time are there any other things I could try / a way to test if my issue is related to the connectors?

If you have some de-oxit, you can clean the pins / headers and you can also check the solder joints / reflow (if needed) those header pins while you are at it.

But you should definitely repin the connectors. Solves a ton of issues in these games.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from Zatherdon:

After I removed the board to check the Q2 transistor, when I put the board back in, the bottom bumper coil was suddenly working. It fired in both sensor and solenoid testing modes, however, when I started a game it stopped working. When I rebooted the machine, it was no longer firing at all. I've removed the board a few times now, but it's only happen the first time.

It's the connectors. The pins need to be replaced, both in the harness and on the board. You've verified this already in that you got it working very briefly. There's no difference between solenoid test mode and game mode for instance. The connector made its connection briefly and then failed again (due to corrosion/plating being gone)

There's nothing else to do until you get the replacement parts. Removing as much of the harness from the head will help you work on it on the glass instead of in situ - be prepared up front as this is the worst job in refurbishing this era machine. Takes a while to do correctly and requires some concentration.

#6 1 year ago

Please try these tests on the bottom pop bumpers drive circuit:

- With a jumper wire, connect one end to ground and *very briefly* touch the other end on the metal tab of Q2. Does the bottom pop bumper activate each time you do this? (you said it did in your opening post)

- With the wire still on ground very briefly touch the other end on pin 3 of the U1 chip on the solenoid driver board. Does the bottom pop bumper activate each time?

Remove the jumper wire from ground and connect it to test point TP6 on the solenoid driver board.

- Very briefly touch the other end of the wire on the top non-banded leg of diode CR2 (this diode is just above Q2). Does the bottom pop bumper activate each time?

- This time very briefly touch the wire on the bottom banded leg of diode CR2. Does the bottom pop bumper activate each time?

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Please try these tests on the bottom pop bumpers drive circuit:
- With a jumper wire, connect one end to ground and *very briefly* touch the other end on the metal tab of Q2. Does the bottom pop bumper activate each time you do this? (you said it did in your opening post)
- With the wire still on ground very briefly touch the other end on pin 3 of the U1 chip on the solenoid driver board. Does the bottom pop bumper activate each time?
Remove the jumper wire from ground and connect it to test point TP6 on the solenoid driver board.
- Very briefly touch the other end of the wire on the top non-banded leg of diode CR2 (this diode is just above Q2). Does the bottom pop bumper activate each time?
- This time very briefly touch the wire on the bottom banded leg of diode CR2. Does the bottom pop bumper activate each time?

Ground -> Q2 = Coil fires

Ground -> U1 pin 3 = Coil does not fire

TP6 -> CR2 top = Coil does not fire

TP6 -> CR2 Bottom = Coil fires

Is my assumption correct that this means that diode CR2 has gone bad?

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Zatherdon:

TP6 -> CR2 top = Coil does not fire
TP6 -> CR2 Bottom = Coil fires

Just as I suspected, your CR2 diode is faulty. Replace it. I have seen them go "lazy" and measure good but behave like they're open circuit intermittently.

#9 1 year ago

Good to know, I'll see about getting it replaced and hopefully that fixes the bumper.

Still going to re-pin these connections though, I want it to be as stable as I can get it.

#10 1 year ago

Looks like that did it, bumper now fires perfectly. Still got to iron out a couple other minor bugs, and re-pin those connectors, but good to have all the major stuff done.

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