(Topic ID: 290017)

Bally Nitro Groundshaker tilt error in switch test I can’t fix

By ezed123

3 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by ezed123
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#1 3 years ago

Hello all. I’m new to Pinside but not new to pinball. I’m not an electrical wizard but I’m no dummy either. Here is my issue.
On my 1980 Bally SS Groundshaker machine - I can’t clear the tilt error in the switch test mode (switch 07) and therefore I can’t do anything with the machine. Here is what I’ve tried/done:

Completely Re-pinned A4 J2 connector.
Looked at switch matrix and followed the wire(s) I think may be an issue but everything looks ok. No broken wires or loose connections.
All switches on this wire (A) lane, bottom (D) target and right pop bumper are all on this wire. None of them show an error in the switch test mode. However, the machine won’t coin up and play with the tilt error present.
Cut 1 leg off of the capacitor on the tilt switch.
Door slam tilt switch is closed.

Help! I can’t think of anything else to try. I’m at my wits end. I appreciate this forum and all who participate.

ezed

#2 3 years ago
Quoted from ezed123:

Hello all. I’m new to Pinside but not new to pinball. I’m not an electrical wizard but I’m no dummy either. Here is my issue.
On my 1980 Bally SS Groundshaker machine - I can’t clear the tilt error in the switch test mode (switch 07) and therefore I can’t do anything with the machine. Here is what I’ve tried/done:
Completely Re-pinned A4 J2 connector.
Looked at switch matrix and followed the wire(s) I think may be an issue but everything looks ok. No broken wires or loose connections.
All switches on this wire (A) lane, bottom (D) target and right pop bumper are all on this wire. None of them show an error in the switch test mode. However, the machine won’t coin up and play with the tilt error present.
Cut 1 leg off of the capacitor on the tilt switch.
Door slam tilt switch is closed.
Help! I can’t think of anything else to try. I’m at my wits end. I appreciate this forum and all who participate.
ezed

Have you tried unsoldering one side of the switch to remove it from the circuit and see if it still claims that switch is closed?
I have to imagine that would tell you if it’s actually the switch or a grounding issue somewhere upstream

#3 3 years ago

Thanks for your reply Isochronic Frost. I just tried un soldering one side of the ball rail switch and didn’t work. Then I tried un soldering 1 side of the main tilt switch and nothing happened. Same error. Then while in switch test with the 7 blinking I unplugged the coin door to see if it was the slam tilt switch on the door but nothing happened there.

I’m really at my wits end with this one. Any other suggestions?

#4 3 years ago

Is there any way to totally disable the tilt function on this era of SS Bally games? Or is un soldering one leg of the tilt switches the way to do that? I know that early Gottliebs can have tilt disabled. Just trying to find a way around this issue.

#5 3 years ago

By the way I didn’t mention that this game has all new Alltek boards. MPU, solenoid driver and power rectifier. Also new sound board. Then only original board that still works is the lamp driver board

#6 3 years ago

Trying to read the schematic makes my eyes bleed it is so badly scanned. What happens if you run the test with A4 J2 disconnected ? Is the error still there ? I would pull J3 and test as well as there are "cabinet switches" on that connector , just to test. With both J2 and J3 disconnected , if the issue persists then I would start to think there is an issue on board. There should be dipswitches on the board , and according to the schematic, the 7th switch on each dipswitch is connected to that same line. I would toggle them to see if they change anything. First , test without J2 connected.

#7 3 years ago

There are 3 tilt switches in the game. The plumb bob and roll cage in the cabinet and another on the bottom of the playfield. Make sure you check all of them.
Assuming none of the above are stuck, typically this problem is caused by a bad capacitor or a stuck coin switch.

#8 3 years ago

Ok thanks guys for the feedback. Here is what I did. Ran switch test with A4J2 unplugged and no error. Actually with the top half of the harness on and the last 1-4 pins unplugged still no error. So it appears I have it isolated to the few wires on the bottom of that harness. I have shown pics. Regarding the tilt devices I also attached pics. There is the ball trough switch, the plumbob switch and another tilt switch altogether in the same complex on the inside of the cabinet. I do not see another tilt switch on the underside of the playfield. I still have one leg off on each of the ball trough switch and the tilt switch. Hopefully this info helps us get closer to a fix. Included a pic of the switch matrix page from my book

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#9 3 years ago

On the bracket circled below under the playfield, there's supposed to be a weighted tilt switch which someone has removed. Make sure they haven't twisted the loose wires from that switch together so they're making contact.

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#10 3 years ago

Aha! One of my pin buddies at home told me there was supposed to be an under play field tilt switch but I couldn’t find it and didn’t k is where it was supposed to be. As soon as I get home I will report my findings. Thanks Quench

#11 3 years ago

Quench!! My hero! That’s exactly what happened. The tilt switch must have been removed and the goof ball that owned the game before me twisted the 2 switch wires together. I have shown pic of wires (now untwisted). Therefore game thinks switch is closed. Game now goes through switch test with a 0 which means this problem is solved.

Thank you to everyone for your input and helping me run the gamut on all items that needed to be looked at.

This made my first forum on Pinside a very pleasant and helpful experience. I’m glad to be welcomed into the herd.

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