5101 NVRAM on original MPU was causing no/little lights or activity and function on playfield. I had him obtain one of the universal Marco boards, swapped it in on the weekend. Playfield now works, all lights/targets. However, not a single solenoid (ball kick out, flippers) do not work. They worked before old MPU failed. Seems like low power however, flippers make a light buzzing noise and move a hair. So maybe solenoid driver board now? Original solenoid board has some old repairs on it, and am thinking of just finding/getting a replacement. Am suspecting solenoid driver board, which makes sense, especially with a shoddy older repair showing on it. Am thinking of just suggesting he buys a Marco solenoid driver board since it is newly made, and not take chances on trying to repair or replace with original.

Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this. Thank you

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ULTSDB

Tim

#2 2 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

8y 114K 8,036

OP
Quoted from nagamitsu:
flippers make a light buzzing noise and move a hair.

That's the typical symptom of the flipper End of Stroke switches not making contact when the flippers at rest.
If you rotate the flipper up by hand, press the flipper button, does the flipper stay up? If yes, it proves the EOS switch issue.

Other solenoids not working could be the playfield 1 amp slow blow fuse (near the flipper mechs) is blown/not making good contact in the fuse holder.

#3 2 years ago

TIM

nagamitsu

Pinside member

Cambridge, ON

9y 26,900 243 1

Quoted from Quench:
That's the typical symptom of the flipper End of Stroke switches not making contact when the flippers at rest.
If you rotate the flipper up by hand, press the flipper button, does the flipper stay up? If yes, it proves the EOS switch issue.
Other solenoids not working could be the playfield 1 amp slow blow fuse (near the flipper mechs) is blown/not making good contact in the fuse holder.

All fuses checked/tested. It's basically all solenoids on the playfield that don't work, flippers, pop outs, ball drain kick out. The solenoid driver board that is essentially providing that power has older issues/repairs and I'm not trusting it.

If I rotate flipper by hand and press button, it doesn't hold or move at all.

Tim

#4 2 years ago

237

slochar

Pinside member

7y 86,550 6,909

OP
Quoted from nagamitsu:
All fuses checked/tested. It's basically all solenoids on the playfield that don't work, flippers, pop outs, ball drain kick out. The solenoid driver board that is essentially providing that power has older issues/repairs and I'm not trusting it.

The solenoid driverboard is not providing the solenoid power. It's providing the ground. The power comes directly from the rectifier board and goes directly to the playfield.

Rectifier boards on these games always need repair/replacement. The connectors if nothing else.

#5 2 years ago

TIM

nagamitsu

Pinside member

Cambridge, ON

9y 26,900 243 1

Quoted from slochar:
The solenoid driverboard is not providing the solenoid power. It's providing the ground. The power comes directly from the rectifier board and goes directly to the playfield.
Rectifier boards on these games always need repair/replacement. The connectors if nothing else.

Thanks. Confusing, as I assumed it was the solenoid driver board. Ugh, I hate this machine already, everything was working before MPU died, and now at least for most part everything works now except for all the solenoids on playfield (which are getting power, just insufficient power it seems).

Tim

#6 2 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

8y 114K 8,036

Do you measure 43 volts DC on the fuse under the playfield? The playfield solenoids get power from the J1 connector coming off the rectifier board.

Post some clear pictures of the rectifier board.

#7 2 years ago

TIM

nagamitsu

Pinside member

Cambridge, ON

9y 26,900 243 1

Quoted from Quench:
Do you measure 43 volts DC on the fuse under the playfield? The playfield solenoids get power from the J1 connector coming off the rectifier board.
Post some clear pictures of the rectifier board.

Will check. Possibly this weekend, friend's place where it is, is an hour and 20 minute drive one way. Rectifier board might be easier to rebuild/replace at least, if that's the case.

Tim

#8 2 years ago

AMR

BigAl56

Pinside+ Frequent

Palatine, IL

7y 64,800 1,658

Does the knocker or flipper relay work? If they do but just the playfield coils are out its probably the playfield fuse. There is a fuse on the bottom of the playfield by the flippers. Often that fuse is blown or the socket is bad. If all coils are out but the game still boots up check the jumper wire on J3 of the SD board. If that gets loose no coils will operate.

#9 2 years ago

TIM

nagamitsu

Pinside member

Cambridge, ON

9y 26,900 243 1

Quoted from BigAl56:
Does the knocker or flipper relay work? If they do but just the playfield coils are out its probably the playfield fuse. There is a fuse on the bottom of the playfield by the flippers. Often that fuse is blown or the socket is bad. If all coils are out but the game still boots up check the jumper wire on J3 of the SD board. If that gets loose no coils will operate.

Thanks! Not 100% sure on knocker and flipper relay, basically any/all coil on playfield doesn't work. I've tried replacing the fuse on bottom of the playfield. If it is taken out, the same symptoms remain, flipper buttons activate the flipper coils, but only a light buzzing sound from them. Same with fuse in place. The solenoid driver board isn't great, one of the transistors on it (older repair) caught fire, there's scorch marks on the board and a previous repair done doesn't look great. But prior to MPU failing, it was working with this same SD board. The underlying symptom seems there's not proper/enough power to the coils on the playfield.

Tim

#10 2 years ago

AMR

BigAl56

Pinside+ Frequent

Palatine, IL

7y 64,800 1,658

The playfield fuse does not protect the flippers just the other playfield coils. Flippers are enabled through the relay. I would narrow this down. First measure the coil voltage at both sides of the fuse holder. Should be 43v. Then apply a momentary hard ground to the switched side of the flipper coils and see if you can fire them manually. Try to narrow down to a specific point of fail.

1 month later

#11 1 year ago

TIM

nagamitsu

Pinside member

Cambridge, ON

9y 26,900 243 1

Fixed fully now. Replaced the rectifier board with the new made ones available.

Tim

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