(Topic ID: 331164)

Bally Nip-It wiring and zipper flipper issues

By rrss

1 year ago



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#1 1 year ago

I picked up a Nip-It and I have worked through all the issues on it, but now I'm hung up on the last problem; the zipper flippers don't close.

When they are apart, the mushroom bumper that should close them scores 1100 points rather than the 100 points it should. If I manually close the MB (close flippers) relay and manually close the flippers, the mushroom bumper scores the 100 points it should.

The entire zipper flipper-close circuit had been rewired with old 2-conductor lamp cord and the wires were all frayed on the ends. I cut out the old lamp cord and rewired it with proper wire. The lamp cord wiring was done really weird, it ran from the jones plugs to one side of the 1.6A fuse block. One the opposite side of the fuse block, they had both conductors of the lamp cord soldered to the fuse block and each conductor going out to two different switches on the Advance Bonus relay. They then had a second section of lamp cord going from the fuse block to the MB relay. Even though it doesn't look right and the schematics don't show the Adv Bonus relay going through the 1.6A fuse, it works so I put the new wire exactly like the old lamp cord was installed.

I'm still with a game that doesn't close the flippers. I cleaned the switches on the MB relay with alcohol and card stock paper, and verified the relay switches were aligned. They opened and closed properly without needed any adjustments. I cleaned the switch on the mushroom bumper and I cleaned the EOS switch on the zipper flipper assembly and made sure they were adjusted and opening and closing as they should. I also made sure the close-flipper coil is good, and I'm getting 5amp on it like I should. I also verified the wired were securely connected to the coil.

I'm attaching pics showing the new white wire I put in to replace the lamp cord. It goes from the zipper flipper EOS (pic 1) to the bottom left plug (the one filled with solder) on the 16 pin plug (pic 2), to the fuse and on to the MB relay(pic 3). I also put a pic of the EOS switch open and closed (pic 4 &5).

What am I missing? If somebody has a Nip-It and can confirm that the wire I replaced was done correctly or not, that would be helpful too. Thanks -Ryan

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#2 1 year ago
Quoted from rrss:

When they are apart, the mushroom bumper that should close them scores 1100 points rather than the 100 points it should.

What else fires when you hit the mushroom bumper? Does the Advance Bonus relay for example fire too? That might be what's giving you the extra 1000 points.

Quoted from rrss:

I'm still with a game that doesn't close the flippers.

The circuit for the Closer Flipper solenoid is pretty straightforward. Does your game match it or has it been altered?
Nip It Flipper Close (resized).jpgNip It Flipper Close (resized).jpg

/Mark

#3 1 year ago

Your work looks nice and neat, but may I suggest labelling each wire with the factory color code that corresponds to the schematic. This will help you and future owners troubleshoot.

#4 1 year ago

Hi Mark, thanks for taking a look. The zipper flipper closed circuit is wired according to the schematics. It goes from the zipper flipper assembly EOS switch to the 16-pin jones plug, out of the jones plug block to the 1.6 A fuse, then on to the M-B relay. When I hit the mushroom bumper and it scores the 1100, only the M-B relay is pulling in, not the Advance Bonus relay.

The one thing that was not wired according to the schematics is the Advance Bonus relay, although that seems to be working. If you look in the pic, they had two wires running from that 1.6A fuse to two different switches on that relay stack. The schematics do not show that relay going through the fuse or being connected to the M-B relay in any way. I'm thinking the problem is rooted in the wonky rewiring somebody did with that old lamp cord.

I'm hoping to figure out where those two wires are supposed to go rather than the 1.6A fuse for the M-B relay.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from rrss:

The zipper flipper closed circuit is wired according to the schematics.

Are you sure? Use the wire colors on the schematic above, not the physical locations. For example, is one of the flipper closing solenoid solder lugs connected to the same 80/black wire as the thumper bumper solenoids? Is the Mushroom Bumper relay switch connected to the same 30/yellow wire that comes right off the transformer? What about the wires between them? If the wire colors all match and are wired as shown in the schematic then using a jumper to bypass parts of the circuit should be enough to find the flipper closing issue.

#6 1 year ago

I can't really go by wire color because somebody rewired large sections of this circuit with old lamp cord (which I replaced with white 16ga wire). They also made other "modifications" such as taking the two yellow wires off the zipper flipper EOS switch stack, crimping them together, then putting a new section of lamp cord from that switch down to the one open jones plug on the 16 pin block, and wiring the M-B relay to that. I really wish I knew why they did all of this, but judging by the age of that old lamp cord and the condition of the electrical tape they used to wrap everything, it happened a long time ago. Here is a pic of the hacked EOS switch.

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#7 1 year ago

That being said, I did check the wires that are there still, and the colors match up; the zipper close coil black wire rings out to the balck wires on the pops, the other coil wire rings out to the brown/yellow wire on the EOS switch, etc.

#8 1 year ago

If I put a business card in the switch with the replacement wire to break the contact, the mushroom bumper scores the correct 100 points rather than 1100, but the flippers still don't close.

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#9 1 year ago
Quoted from rrss:

I can't really go by wire color because somebody rewired large sections of this circuit with old lamp cord

Where you can, use the the wire colors from the schematic. Where you can't you still need to verify that the circuit matches reply #2.

Quoted from rrss:

the zipper close coil black wire rings out to the balck wires on the pops, the other coil wire rings out to the brown/yellow wire on the EOS switch, etc.

Does that mean that you checked continuity? Beware that continuity can be misleading. The path the meter sees might not be the path you think it sees. In a case like this where the wiring is under suspicion you might be safer checking resistance between all the points that should be connected together. Anything more than an ohm and there may not be a direct connection. A path through another coil for example which would not be a direct connection could show continuity but a resistance of 10-20 ohms instead of less than an ohm.

#10 1 year ago

On the switch stack that has the blue crimp, the very top lug and very bottom lug look to be in contact with the bottom frame and the top one connected to the stack top plate which could short these two leads together.

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