(Topic ID: 296426)

New target designs + odometer reels for Bally Night Rider

By goingincirclez

2 years ago



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#5 2 years ago

2 suggestions.

#1: Straighten out the decals. That's driving my OCD crazy. I'm sure they look way worse when you have closeup pics, and I'm sure they look fine on the machine when playing it. You can use tweezers to grip the corner of the decal and get lines up nice and centered on the target before pushing it down permanently.

#2: Cut a small piece of Mylar that's slightly larger than the decal to cover those decals. After a week of play the ball will destroy that sticker paper if it isn't protected. I find that printable vinyl works better than standard sticker paper.

I did something very similar for a Stern machine. They were just the STERN logo, so it was much easier than what you did there.

Looks great though!

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Thanks for the comments all. The target decals are first-shot first-print efforts I applied while the targets were installed in the game. I need to increase the size slightly to better fill the face, and prevent snags as they drop - Incredibly, the thickness of the paper sometimes snags the metal frame, because the decals aren't long enough to extend past the frame while raised. I've accommodated that exact concern on WMS and GTB targets I designed... but here I re-used a template I made for Stern targets which apparently fit just a bit differently and didn't have this issue (so much for Sterns and Ballys being the "same"). So yes, a revision is planned, and I'll pull the mechs to square up the application this time. OCD placated!
They are very durable. I use printable adhesive vinyl, and always overlay with mylar before cutting them out. The glossy finish is slick and easy to clean too. Durability is well proven as I made custom "S O X" targets for a Big Hurt that went on location 4 years ago, and they STILL look great despite the rest of the game wearing heavily (it's popular!) over the years.
I could almost not worry about the BG crack, but every time I remove the BG it flexes and shifts at that faultline seam despite my mylar reinforcement. So it's a matter of when, not "if", it will finally separate toward disaster. The mostly-absent (corroded) lift bar certainly isn't helping this scenario. But I have a vision: if I try to replace the bar (I did buy a new one) to make the glass more stable & easier/safer to handle, the process of doing so will make the glass shatter, etc (those bars aren't easy to remove or replace even on *good* glass!)... so I fear I'm ultimately damned whatever I do, or don't :/

That's awesome that you're seeing good results in the field after quite a few plays.

I recently made some targets from a laser printer on waterproof label "paper" then covered them with mylar as well. But I wasn't 100% sure how durable they'd be in the long run. Now that I see you are getting good results, I won't hesitate if I need to make more.

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