Hey all,

Picked up this Night Rider a few weeks back. Non-working, super rusted out head unit, decent playfield for not having any glass I guess. Backglass is pretty good, sans a huge hole in the art by Player 1. As a bonus, the head itself is falling apart. No back door, and the rear glass holding pieces and lockdown bar were just handed to me. I've got to say, I was happy to see those parts though! As an aside, super nice seller. Guy was basically just cleaning out a little and looking for a little cash to give to his daughter. Win - win!
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Started off with my old friend vinegar. Had to break the leg levels free. I plan on seeing if I can't gussy them up a bit, but for now I just wanted to make certain this project was going to run fairly quickly, and cheaply. Legs took about 2 nights soaking, then boom, off they came, no problem.
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Got her stood up, and evaluated the project a little:
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Time to work on the rusty score reel coils. I couldn't believe how the plungers were rusted out, in a plastic sleeve. And man were they stuck in there! For the most part, a little iso and gentle tugging got them free. I didn't dismantle each score reel yet. My main goal was to get everything to move and reset to 00000.
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Of course, the last 2 wouldn't budge. At all. I was being very careful to not stress the nylon/plastic parts, so I kept applying iso, then oil, and eventually vinegar. A day later I was still tugging with no release ( ). Eventually I pried the coil support loose, and had access to the plunger. I poured a little more vinegar in there, let it sit, then tapped it out. Problem solved! The last 2 coils were cleaned.

But then I ran across a set of gears not moving. Out of 16 possible reels, only 1 was totally seized. Not bad! I took this one apart and gave it a solid cleaning. No surprise it is the smoothest reel now.
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Hooked everything back up, hit the power, and started a game! Had to tap a few reels to get them to advance; no surprise, I did the minimal amount of work at this point. She's alive! At first the reels didn't turn at all, even though the bells were sounding, but eventually they started moving. My guess is a few contacts under the playfield needed get cleaned.

I've got my plastics cleaned, and am working on a general playfield refurbishment. If all goes well I may try to clear coat this thing, we'll see.

So now I'm looking for a little free advice...

I have no GI at the moment. I have checked the fuses, all 5 test good (out of socket with a DMM). I pulled and replaced all Jones plugs. Most look pretty shiny. Even thought the playfield has no lights, it sounds as though the bonus countdown is still in effect. I've never played Night Rider before, so I'm just guessing here.

Any thoughts on my GI problem (wow, 2 in one post! )

Unaware of that. This is my first Bally.

I'll look into it. Thanks!

Just read that 70's Ballys had a left of coin door Jones plug issue as well. Looks like I've got a few leads.

And yeah, beach game, or nice damp basement.

1) You've already got one!

2) Both. Entire deck. Backglass and coin door are fine. I used a meter - out of holder. Fuses check. Did break a tab on the 5 amp though. Ran the meter with fuse in on the holders; still getting current.

3) Jones plugs. Just cleaned 'em a little with a wire brush. Lowered the playfield, and of course it slipped a little as I have the apron off. Kinda slammed some. Now I've got no power. Yay!

So, back at it. I'll get a new fuse holder for the 5 amp as well.

So, I'm back to power and old light situation. I believe it has to do with the plug on the left near the score motor.

Time for more tinkering!

GD, thanks.

Well, I'm looking for it, but don't see that relay labeled.

I see it on my schematic, but I don't see the other near by units either...

Also, I've found the middle Jones in the head has a loose wire effecting behind the backglass. So I'm learning!

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Think I found the game over relay (right next to score motor?), but no matter what I jiggle, no lights.

Oh well, for another day. I'll find it eventually. I've got plenty else to work on with this project!

And then you look at the same plug for the 15th time and realize it's dirty and needs some wire brush!

Still don't have all lights/inserts, but progress I'll take!

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And then more lights as contacts came clean from use!

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I'm thinking I may just do a few minor touch ups and then auto clear. I'm thrilled its working so quickly! Thanks

Yeah, after going through that bowler a while back I learned a lot about lube/no lube.

I isopropyled the nylon shaft interior on the steppers and just lightly sanded and cleaned the shafts. I sanded/wired some rust off of the metal plungers, then gently oiled, and wiped off. I didn't want rust forming right away again. I didn't do a super job first go round, only wanted to see if I could free it up and get it going. I'm going back over them soon - full tear down. I'll be sure to avoid any oil to nylon intermingling.

I'd love new plungers & sleeves, but that's about $200 I don't want to spend right now if it's working as is.

Thanks for the help and tips. Keep them coming!

White or pearl?

Thinking I would peroxide + sunshine these guys if white.

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If you're trying it soon I'll send my stuff up to you...

Ok, spent this morning removing posts, etc.

I'm a little nervous about getting things back correctly, so plenty of pics for me. Here's my deck now.

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And, why not label some baggies while I'm at it? Let's keep this easy on the finish end.

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Well, a little chilly, but let's see what this does.

I know it's not the 12%, but cheap is good. I've done small plastics before. Didn't totally clear them but definitely showed improvement.

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Here we are after one day of sunlight. Around 45 - 50 degrees today.

I'll let them sit out again tomorrow.

Also worked on cleaning the playfield today.

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Aaannddd, we're back.

Well, the hydrogen peroxide didn't really give me the results I was looking for. Oh well, no real loss there.

Spent some time the past few days working on derusting some metal and fortifying the backbox.

I've got a bunch of plywood delamination going on, so lots of glue and clamps at work now.

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Had a few nice days last week, so I got some backglasses triple thicked.

Night Rider had a little more flaking than I initially thought.

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Penny for your thoughts on these inserts.

1) heat and level them. The decals will be fine.

2) drop some leveler on there. If you try to remove or adjust those they'll only look worse.

3) grab some clear circular labels and stick them on those. It's just a beat Night Rider.

4) something completely different.

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Well, I was unhappy with the results of the 3 inserts I tried. I rolled a ball over all of them and it didn't seem to alter the path or jump and bump, so I'll probably just leave them or try some leveling agent.

I plan on clear coating the field anyway.

Decided, though not cost effective, nor truly deserving, that I would repaint this cab. I've never done one before, and I'm basically in this hobby to learn. I figure if it fails miserably, oh well, so long as it plays.

Here's my head. I'm using a stripper as I'm fairly certain this has lead.

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Round 2.

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Round 3.

Time to head over to the whiskey thread. This can wait til tomorrow, with more sauce and a brush to finish it up.

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Switched up from using a 5 year old can of chemical stripper to a brand new bottle of Citristrip. Bam!
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It's got that "far away" look.

Primer all set, I'll white it up in 30 minutes or so.

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I did such a poor job on this I think it'll pass for factory!

It's all good though. It's 100% better than before. Plus the game wouldn't even play, so anything I do can only help I figure.

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I was wondering what shade of red to go with. Took off the side rail.... there's my answer.

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Thank you.

So, my lock down is so snug it has to be forced down.

I was originally thinking the cab was separated. Looking at these corners I figured no brainer.

But when I look inside they appear tight.

Even with a clamp they don't really close much.

Thoughts?

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Maybe take a thin blade/saw and try "cleaning the crack", then glue and clamp?

Hey everyone, thanks for chiming in. As always, all thoughts appreciated.

I checked the lockdown itself, I think it looks normal. Take a look.

I was going to ram a sheetrock saw in there, but thin grinder sounds interesting.

Yes, the lockdown is the issue. I read Vid's guide, but seeing the inside it didn't quite seem the same.

Chris, I am very motivated with this cab. Lots to do, but achievable I think.

Thanks all!

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The inside is already tight. I don't think it would bring it in any more.

Interesting thought...

I think I made some progress tonight. I got a dry fit that worked after a little cleaning out using this tool.

I don't want to rush it so I'll look it over again tomorrow.

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Seriously Mopar,
$20 to prevent profanity? Sign me up!

I've been doing a lot of second looks on this project. I guess that's goid, but man I wish I'd smarten up a little!

Noticed the playfield wasn't sitting level, hence the lockdown also hard to attach.

So twofold issues here.

In other news, I'm all glued up!

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You make a strong argument!

See, something else I've overlooked!

Thanks

Not much to report today.

I "think" the cab is better for the lockdown. Hard to tell without side rails and glass. Still a little snug, but it should pass.

Found the playfield issue, I left 2 nuts on the wood rail. Doh!

Replaced fuse holders this morning, as well as went through Jones plugs/connectors with a pipe brush.

Got a package today!

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Treading into deeper water (for me). I've got the 4 main bolts out of the bottom board but something is holding it in. Is it this piece? If so, it appears to be an Allen, or determined phillip?

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Got it.

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I've never been this deep before! This is fun!

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No going back now!

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So, cleaning my mech board...

I've read a few threads, and its clearly like Ford vs Chevy. I won't be operating the game for weeks, so can I shoot some Simple Green or brake cleaner on there and let it dry? Also, wouldn't I just have puddles of dirt then? How do i remove those? I was thinking of placing it upside down and then spraying.

I'm fairly opposed to the water method, especially as the temperature/sun isn't optimal yet, but also in general it doesn't sound reasonable to me.

As to labels, most have come off already anyway, so I'll probably re-label anyway.

So what are your thoughts?

I should know better than to post a question on a Sunday. Traditional pin getting day.

So, no shortcuts. Got it. Unhappy, but understood.

Well, I'm no woodworker, and this is still riddled with flaws, but prime and paint time.

I'm fighting the weather, so, a little out of order on the head pedestal. I'll do that Sunday probably. I wanted the cab to cure before stencils.

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Spending some time with a toothbrush today.

Look, these wires are color coded! Who knew?

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First step, take her out and treat her like a laaaaady...

Not a bad first stencil all things considered.
My cab is more a parallelogram than rectangle, which makes stenciling so much fun!

I had the B in Bally tear when I removed the non-stick backing, but I'm OK with that result.

My bottom line came loose mid spray totally screwing that area. It "may" be an easy fix.

One side of first secondary color down!

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Thanks!
I contacted Jeff at Pinball Pimp and he walked me through. Such good customer service!

Slow going, but still progressing.

Had to fix that section where the stencil lifted. That was driving me nuts!

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It's been some good, some bad type of morning.

Finished the head. That was good. Turned out OK.

Placed the backglass in and noticed my touch ups / repairs looked different in the sunlight. Might have to repair my repairs at some point. But that can wait.

Hoping to get blue on one side of cab today.

Question: clear my paint work or leave it alone? I used Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel rattle can paint. I was thinking a few light coats of satin or semi gloss to s.ooth out the stencil ridges.

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Another layer down.

Just one side, 2 colors left.

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Not certain. I just lined up the register marks and sprayed. It's quite possible I was off by a cm and it shows more dramatically.

I just compared to my original first pics in the thread. Yes, you are correct.

Since you pointed it out, it will bother me forever. When are you coming over to fix it?

Yeah, I'll try to check before spraying other side. Honestly though, it is equally likely user error. Or possibly a slight wrinkle to the stencil.

Either way, I'll let Jeff know just in case it's the stencil. Still super pleased with the result. This won't be a show cab, just hopefully better than when it started.

Remember those legs I placed in a vinegar chamber a few days back? Me neither! Doh!

Looks like I'll be repainting the legs now.

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Working on the score board. Whoever posted the idea about using an old shooter rod tip to remove recessed lights is genius!

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Not certain yet. I was thinking I'd try to match as best I could, or just use the extra blue I have from the cab. But I'm not certain that would look acceptable.

Well, I appreciate the honesty.

It's a keeper, for about 6 months is my guess. I've got room for 2 pins max, so small collection.

I'll be doing my thing with these. If the eventual new owner wants to shell more cash, so be it. This isn't a Fathom

In other news, decided to freshen up the score box a little. Funny how I had ALMOST enough primer and ALMOST enough white. Both cans fell short of my intentions. That said, it's way better than before. As a bonus, I don't have nearly empty paint cans hanging around!

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Cool! Thanks!

This is what happens when you rush...

Totally my fault. Forgot to remove the right "x" register painter's tape before peeling stencil.

Looks like this side may need some finageling for the blue.

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So, here's what I'm thinking:

I'll cut out some "R" from the last R in Rider; the solid part next the shadow. Then I'll place some Saran Wrap there so I can adjust the location. That will give me 2 reference points. The X and the R curve.

I'm open to other thoughts though.

So, I went for it today. Might need some touch up, or I may just "let it ride". Couple of spots drawing my eye.

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Looking at I can see the right side was high by a cm. Oh well, a few touch up and carry on.

Note to self: DONT RUSH. KEEP REGISTER MARKS.

It's official, I'm no artist.

I tried to mend about 6 areas tonight. I kept 2 of those areas. Lots of bleeding and general ugliness.

End result today, a few thicker lines to help cover some white.

Next I'll "remove" the blue that runs too high.

After that, cut and run I think.
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Haha, thanks everyone. I know in the big scheme it's a nothingburger, but I'm one of those guys that divulges all the faults. Personality flaw

Onward and upward!

Had a few hours tonight. Finished the legs up. Started to reattach the side rails.

Looking forward to a whole day alone in the garage tomorrow.

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Making some nice progress today.

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Well, didn't get to fully resurrect even one score reel tonight, but I've got my red touch up on the playfield and the cab has worked out nicely.

Tomorrow is another day.

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Having some fun with score reels today.

A little rust and dust, but they spin nicely when done.

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Finished all reels today. I'll have to print some new numbers, but that's for a later date.

I've got a few light sockets to tweak, along with some wires/solder joints to check. Right now it's one of those jiggle the wire just right kind of things.

Forgot to clean the player unit before remounting in the backbox. Guess I'll clean that next.

Overall, it's starting to come together.

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The glamorous side of pinball, cleaning steppers.

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What I ended up doing was taking off the fingers and nylon gear shaft/wheel unit. Along with the springs, as pictured. I used a small wire wheel dremel to remove most surface rust. Lots of isopropyl just for good measure.

I also removed the coils, although not nearly as deteriorated as the score reels, so I took a Q tip with iso in the sleeve and plunger, then ended up cleaning the plunger more.

Seems as though more grease like junk was holding it back than anything.

Could it be cleaner and shinier? Yes.
Is it working now? You bet.

I'm doing a HECK refurbishment, not a HEP. As in, when I'm done, this thing will be a heck of a lot better than before!

Keep in mind, this is my first all out repaint project. And its a Night Rider...

I've got a few other projects lined up just waiting also (Bazaar, Space Station, a pitch and bat) so I'm trying to do a good job, but not working with a CQ cab to start. Small steps as they say.

Thanks for riding along with me!

You know what, in retrospect, I could "probably" separate that bracket from bakelite fairly easily.

I may have to go back to this stepper.

Got a some playfield touch up done today. A little more to go.

1 pop demylared, 2 to go.

I had forgotten how sticky this stuff is!

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OK, all 3 mylars are off. Still need to clean up the top 2 but it's quitting time tonight.

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Yeah, I lost a little on the top left. I think because I was a little hasty. Most of the other paint loss you see was pretty much there already. Probably the cleaning took a little more from each.

I use upside down compressed air can, and a mask... because you only make that mistake once!

Peeled up incredibly easily.

Took off the wood rails so I could citrusStrip and repaint.

Working on the drops in the meantime.

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Arg! 1 circlip shy.

Thought I'd found it in the cab, but wrong size.
Drop bank continued/completed tomorrow I guess.

These guys were grimy...

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Both sets of drops completed.
I'm getting there!

Here's where I stand tonight:

Just cleaned off the final mylar glue residue.
Some of my initial touch up came off, naturally, but no big deal.

About to lightly sand bonus hole and shooter lane.

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Reds are back.

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Something very strange happened this morning...

I decided to do a few quick touch up, and happened to grab this "light orange". Turns out it is a near perfect match! But here's the odd part, I had been trying different colors from my stash to match earlier, and never saw this one. Secondly, it was just sort of out in the open, waiting for me.

I'm not gonna lie, it was a touch spooky.

Anyhow, here's one of my pop touch ups. Not a bad match, right?

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Done for the day.

Whites under plastic - terrible match, don't really care, just trying to lay paint on bare wood and brighten it up a bit for lights.

Yellow around pops - pretty good match! I'll lightly sand or chemically level the 2 top pop areas tomorrow.

Aqua truck lanes - nice match. Only had a few thin chips. So looks pretty good.

Pop area blue - worked a while trying to match this. I think it turned nicely.

Still can't match by slings. I'm getting close. But seeing as though that's do close to the player, I need it a very good match. Fight another day.

Here's what it looks like now... (funny how light angles display imperfections so cleary one way, but not another)

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Thanks Chris,
Yes, I looked into that brand, but you are correct. A little pricey for this project.

So long as I don't make things worse, I'm happy!

Dayum!

Any thoughts on filling in worn wood around the slings?

I was thinking maybe I'd sand, lay a light layer of wood glue, followed by wood filler/putty, then paint. I have some deep gouges there.

Worked on orange and black touch ups tonight. I should be making a lot of progress next week.

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Good day to level inserts. Using dropper method as so many have decals on them.

I figure if I can even 1/2 level them now, the final auto clear should just about finish the job.

Well, here's what I've got so far.

For the most part I think it's better. That's always the goal, right?

I'm hoping this humidity breaks soon so I can try to SprayMax 2 this thing!

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3 drppers later. I think I'm done here.

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Since the weather isn't cooperating for clear coating (and I've been playing my new to me Space Station) I've decided to renumber my reels this weekend.

I'm planning on stripping them clean, then applying this sticker. I used the Bally file.

My thought was to clear it first before peeling off. That way, down the road, a moist towel could shine them up again.

Any thoughts before I continue?

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A few coats of clear, along with a new beer seal in between coats.

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