Very true. In certain situations I use Remmington Gun oil on metal to metal, but using on nylon
the nylon can/will swell and problems (especially close tolerance) will almost surely follow..
Inside nylon sleeves, a cue tip with Lemon Pledge. Metal sleeves I clean with a solution then
finish off with Lemon Pledge. Same with the plungers..
I'm presently working on another room for more machines. Before long the Night Rider will once
again be set up..

That does look quite separated on the outside's top half.
If you have a small grinder that takes 4" disc, with a
zippy wheel (very thin disc) you can cut into the inside
(but not all the way to the outside) to make space so
it'll squeeze and close up the outside's gap.
For gluing small cracks as such, I place a stream of glue
in the corner, then with an air compressor and air nossel, I
I blow the glue so it travels deep in the crack.
Is both front outsides separated, or just the one side shown
in the pic?

I had machines that had a very rough life. I'd be lost without Bondo as a body filler, but here, I think
one of his concerns is that the lock down bar doesn't slip on. It's too tight..
I had machines with this same problem, but the gap always tightened up after clamping..

Yea, a thin zippy wheel I've used on many other projects besides metal.
I'd go mostly all the way through, and like Alex said, if needed, the outside
can always be bondo patched..
Tite Bond 2 is what I always have on hand for wood to wood..
btw: I'm guessing the top front being a good 3/16" wider than the rear..

Those ocscalating tools (or whatever they're called) work great, especially in tight spots..
Ever had a playfield glass from a pin the was stored for decades and was stubborn as
hell to get out?
I've worked with suction cups before, but these little things for the price is just the nuts..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TWWYNFL/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4

Those wires look damn good! Was that a soft, medium, or hard toothbrush?

I thought those imperfections were deliberate.
Perfection usually looks off..

Okay. This is B.S. For the last few weeks Ron's been getting all the Hype
leaving everyone else behind.
I've had it up to my neck! This is the last straw! I had to get the Night Rider
out of the barn!
Well you know actually. A few years ago I had the N.R. set up and now that I
have additional space, I figured I'd put it back on its legs and give it a quick
freshening up. I didn't do the high quality work that Ron's doing, but got her
cleaned and lubed and she's now playing fine and back in action..

IMG_0549 (resized).JPG

Yea, I hate dropping a screw, but sometimes I guess that's just part of the process..
On the Drops, each drop target has a spring to help it along to drop, but there isn't
any on the Reset Coils.
The contacts underneath the 2 banks run in series and when the drops are all
down, the circuit is completed to reset the Bank's coil which sounds all is good there.
On the scoring. Each drop briefly closes a contact on its way down that's on the
backside of the Bank which energizes the 50 Point Relay. When the target is all the
way down, that contact is once again open.
The Drops that don't drop without help. Those switches on the backside of the Bank.
They briefly close when the Drop is on its way down from a tongue on the lower backside
of the drops that ride on a blade on the way down. I'm thinking some of those blades
that get ridden are a little tight inward toward the Bank. You might want to compare
those blades from the ones that don't drop, to the ones that do and make adjustments
from there.
It sounds like maybe the contacts on the backside aren't making good connection when
the drops drop and ride on the blades for the ones that aren't scoring..

Okay. Yea, what I meant by the tongue, that white plastic piece on the bottom of the back of the
Drops that ride on the blades that closes the switches on the backside of the Bank.
Some of those blades may need to be lightened up so the Drops spring down and reset back up
on their own.
Yes, from the weight of the bar and plungers, the coils reset on their own.
Oh yes. I've lemon pledged those blades that the Drop Target's tit (tongue) ride
on. Lemon Pledge takes any possible stickiness away. I've also Pledge plungers
by damping it on a piece of paper towel..

I'm sure you cleaned and lubed the Coin and Player Step Up Unit Wiper Boards and
made sure their Wiper Blades are making good connection and are in line with the rivets..
Also, it's Score Motor 3C that energizes the Player Step Up Unit.
When the ball drains, is the Ball Index Relay energizing?

Yup. And a make/break finishes off that circuitry in the "Outhole Relay"..

I should remember these things. The Ball Index Relay energizes as soon as a point is made.
So it could be a contact in that Relay. When a point is made, you'll want to make sure the Ball
Index Relay energizes and remains energized and I believe it lets loose after the ball has drained
and the Player Step Up Unit's or Frame Unit's coil has energized..
Edit: Damn. I better post after I get some rest. Frame Unit = Ball Unit..

Yea, a little space between the metal frame and blades that the Drop Target's little
white circular tongue slides against is best. Or at least you don't want those blades
at all tight against the frame.
It's the backside of those blades that gets slid against is what I Lemon Pledge.
Sometimes applying by spraying a little on a Q-Tip makes it easier to get to..

IMG_0616 (resized).JPG