(Topic ID: 210004)

Bally Mr Mrs Pacman

By Scmitchell

6 years ago


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#1 6 years ago

Had the boards reworked and NVRAM installed. Now after about 10 minutes of play the pin will either lock up in the middle of a game or finish a game and refuse to restart another. When I power it down and back up I get the7 blinks on the MPU but no game. If I let it sit for 15 minutes and come back...All is well and we play...at least for 10 minutes then BOOM Locked up again. Something must be getting warm but what? Where to look and how to check.. I am new to SS games. My equipment is a craftsmen Multi meter...LOL My experience is mostly EM Thanks gents!

#2 6 years ago

You could use freeze spray (caned air upside-down) or a hair dryer to determine what component is overheating and causing the crash. (It's probably that giant 2W resistor to the left of the NVRAM socket that killed the transistor right below it. Careful, it gets hot enough to burn you!)
Check for +5VDC at the MPU. Also, get it to boot and clear the MPU's audit information out with a red button press on each setting.

Sounds like it is crashing and loosing saved settings when it crashes. Can you confirm this?

#3 6 years ago

Ditto on clearing the audit info. You get bogus info in there when you mess with the N-Ram. That could be causing your problems.

#4 6 years ago

I cleared the audit. It helped!!! I played five games in a row. That would not have happened before but now from time to time when I go to PacMan saucer the vidgrid plays really slowly. And the lights are dimmer and kinda flickering until I come out of maze. Then game plays straight again. I am about to replace the vid grid with the led version.

#5 6 years ago

Spoke too soon. Problem persists. And sometime when turning the pin on it goes really slowly through the start up displays as in BALLY etc. then all the GI just flickers and won’t start a game. Uhgh

#6 6 years ago

would the transistor under the resistor cause an intermittent problem?

#7 6 years ago

Yes, because it may not fail until it gets REALLY hot.

#8 6 years ago

Ok. Now to find transistor on Marcos site. I got to place an order anyway

#9 6 years ago

ordered the transistor... We shall see in a few days.. LOL

#10 6 years ago

Snyper 2099 I think you may have NAILED IT. While waiting on the delivery of parts from Marcos I played it until it locked up. I didn’t have any spray but I put some ice cubes in a sandwich bag and touched the questionable transistor with it. About 5 seconds later it went into tilt and reset. I then played again and repeated.

#11 6 years ago

You may want to replace the resistor that gets really hot as well.

#12 6 years ago

Are you familiar with the VID Grid? I had a bulb or two out on the old board so I replaced it with the LED version One of the LEDs still doesn't light so that must be a problem with the pin. I checked continuity of the line from the lamp driver to the vid grid Good also checked the resistor and transistor associated with said light (number 3 yellow) and they check out the same readings as all the other transistors and resistors...

#13 6 years ago

vid grid problem was bad connection on the J2 plug at the lamp driver transistor 5 did not solve the reset problem waiting on 2 watt resistor now...

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from Scmitchell:

vid grid problem was bad connection on the J2 plug at the lamp driver transistor 5 did not solve the reset problem waiting on 2 watt resistor now...

That's cool but you may want to also order one of these -35 battery corrosion repair kits from Great Plains Electronics. It contains all of the components that could fail in that area of your board for $4.50

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=42

#15 6 years ago

Ok So I replaced the Q 5 transistor and the 2 watt 82 ohm resistor next to it... the reset problem persists and the new resistor still gets hot as heck. When the game locks up I can cool down the new 2 watt resistor with the ol icecube in a bag trick and we can play again.. Something is making that 2 watt resistor get hot Any idea what it my be? Do you think the kit you mentioned above will solve the problem?

#16 6 years ago

It could help but maybe barakandl can chime in here. I feel there is something else wrong as those resistors get hot on every single board.

#17 6 years ago

I.C. U14 sits right above that 82 ohm resistor and U14 handles some critical system control signals including Zero Crossing that's used for some game timing features (you mention the game starts slowing down).
If you cool U14 *only* does the game recover for another 10 minutes?

BTW, since you've got NVRAM you don't need that 82 ohm resistor. barakandl has the details of what he modifies when installing NVRAM, but looking at the schematics, removing R11 (the 82 ohm resistor) and replacing diodes CR5 and CR7 with wire links will probably work.

I would however do the icecube check on U14 first to see if it's failing when heated.

#18 6 years ago

Thanks Quench, I couldn’t remember the other components that are common to fail when the resistor heats up.

#19 6 years ago

BINGO. Carefully cooled U 14 by holding the bag on it from above so as not to contact R 11. She tilted and reset. So what’s next. U11 replacement?

#20 6 years ago

After cooling U14 is the game behaving normally again after you power off-on until it heats up?

#21 6 years ago

yes
it tilts then plays normally

#22 6 years ago

when I cool it the game says "BAd Move" which is tilt then it starts the next ball and plays proper for a bit then repeat

#23 6 years ago

Yeah looks like U14 (4049) needs to be replaced. Get the unbuffered version of the 4049 chip that has the letter U directly after 4049, i.e. two common manufacturer parts are CD4049UBE or MC14049UB

#24 6 years ago

this is the deepest I have been into a solid state game A great learning experience order from Great Plains? I also need to replace the connector on the lamp driver board J2 ? i believe I can monkey around with the wires and get ALL OF THE LEDS working on the new VID grid what tool and supplies should I order and have on hand for this task?

#25 6 years ago

wouldnt you know/// out of stock at GP

#26 6 years ago
Quoted from Scmitchell:

I also need to replace the connector on the lamp driver board J2 ? i believe I can monkey around with the wires and get ALL OF THE LEDS working on the new VID grid what tool and supplies should I order and have on hand for this task?

I'm not in the US so maybe snyper2099 can suggest tools locally available.
Big Daddy has a connector kit for the lamp driver board - look for "Bally/Stern Lamp Driver Connector Kit" here:
http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/bally_kits.htm#b-lamp1
You can get the connector pieces individually from GPE

Mouser.com and DigiKey.com have the CD4049UBE chips.

Do you have the yellow #3 maze LED working yet? It's driven by SCR Q29 (2N5060 or 2N5064) on the main lamp driver board.

#27 6 years ago

I have had all of the yellow and red lamps working but I have to manipulate the wires going into J2 So I GUESS it needs to be repinned. I have never done that before but this is a learning experience I need to buy the proper tools I have Lost World with a bad connector too

#28 6 years ago
Quoted from Scmitchell:

I have had all of the yellow and red lamps working but I have to manipulate the wires going into J2

You might just have cracked solder joints on the back of the lamp driver board where the J2 pins header is soldered. Pull the lamp board out and have a look. Resolder any bad (cracked/fractured) solder joints you find on any of the connector pin headers.

#29 6 years ago

I will check for cracked solder tonight... meanwhile. I ordered a nice pair of nippers to cut the IC chip legs and 10 IC chips "Just for a stockpile" from DigiKey and I also ordered the Light board J1 J2 J3 and J4 repinning kit and crimpers from Big Daddy. Should be ready for a learning curve now

#30 6 years ago

Solder on the pins was not the prob I reheated all the spots and the problem was still there on the vid grid. I will re pin J3 when the bits arrive. If anyone could point me to the link on removing the 2 watt resistor (NVRAM mod) I would appreciate it AND THANKS TO ALL FOR THIS GREAT HELP!

#31 6 years ago

I found the post Now I have to find zero ohm jumpers

#32 6 years ago
Quoted from Scmitchell:

Solder on the pins was not the prob I reheated all the spots and the problem was still there on the vid grid.

Do the J3 male header pins on the lamp board look tarnished where the female connector makes contact?
The female terminals in the J3 connector are probably loose/corroded.

Quoted from Scmitchell:

I found the post Now I have to find zero ohm jumpers

For reference, can you post the link for the components to remove when using NVRAM?

Just use wire links for the "zero ohm jumpers". I use leg clippings I've cut from components (resistors/diodes) for this sort of thing.

#33 6 years ago

thanks Quench my repin bits should be here next week

#34 6 years ago

J1 and J2 repinned problems still have a few lights out My first pin job I will track down the wires for the particular lamp and re repin them

#35 6 years ago

I have removed the CR5 and CR7 and replaced with jumpers also removed R11 Still waiting on the backordered Chip Now I have a flipper coil problem to track down Right side gets hot after about 5 games and drags EOS maybe?

#36 6 years ago

and now f 4 fuse blows... I am thinking the flipper coil is fried

#37 6 years ago

this has been a money pit and the game is not worth it but I am looking at it as the price of SS pinball education

#38 6 years ago
Quoted from Scmitchell:

I have a flipper coil problem to track down Right side gets hot after about 5 games and drags EOS maybe?

Yeah, EOS is probably not opening at the end of stroke. The coil could be damaged now. The thicker winding on the flipper coil should measure about 3 ohms, the thinner coil winding should measure about 310 ohms from memory. Compare readings against the left flipper coil.

#39 6 years ago

I ordered new coils and eos just in case
Now back to the vidgrid lights that are out ( Yellow numbers 2 and 3 ) I have repinned and replaced the connector at the lamp driver. Remember I could fiddle with the wires there and get the lights on.... I also reflowed the solder on the pins of the connector on the back of the lamp driver ... still out but I can put side pressure on the connector at the lamp driver and get lights on. I have scuffed the old pins with a scotch bright pad to clean them. Bad pins??? I ordered new male pins and plan on replacing the pins on the driver... I dont know what else??? LOL thanks for all you guys help! I have learned much that I hope to apply to my LOST WORLD pin that I have in Que

#40 6 years ago

Pull that connector off and look through it with a light. Do you see any terminal gaps that are too large?

Checking terminal gaps in housingsChecking terminal gaps in housings

#41 6 years ago

So I replaced the vid grid with led version No fix. Then I repinned the connectors at the lamp driver. (My first time with that lovely job). No fix. Then I replaced the header pins on lamp driver (again first time with that job) and voila. We have all yellow lights! I replaced the Lower right flipper coil and both eos switches. Now no flipper problems. I learned A ton of new stuff and have more tools and supplies now. All that’s left is a few gi bulbs.

#42 6 years ago

Great to hear you got it working!

#43 6 years ago

Would never have been possible without the great help here. Thank you. I will be bugging you all again soon I am sure. Now on to installing 4 plasma pop bumpers from lighted Pinball mods into the Black Hole.

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