Check out my shop out/restoration thread here:
2.6 mil on mine would be a VERY good score. No EB's here though. Also, I removed the gate so you can't easily trap the ball on the right flipper over and over. Makes the game way better.
There are a few switches in the game that award 1 move. Are you sure they are all adjusted properly as well?
I believe there is some high density foam strips that help level the small clear window... FYI, the screws look original.
Quoted from reconsider59:
Made some progress, game boots up, sounds come on, seems great—except the game immediately tilts, upon starting a game.
The three different tilt switches are not closed.
...what else to check?
The small brown disc capacitors on each of the tilts. One is likely shorted.
Quoted from Boise_D:
Installation was easy. I watched the youtube video first. No issues and it works like a champ. It's brighter, but doesn't look much different than the original.
I think that it looks a LOT brighter AND looks way better than the original set up under the PF. It's totally worth it to me. Reduces crazy heat under there, easier to see and easier to explain to people how to play the maze part of the game, and you will never have to replace any obsolete mini bulbs again.
(My game has the smaller speaker in the 2nd pic above)
I'm actually surprised you are trying to restore it. It looks really nice already.
Regarding your problem, remove the ball, put the drops up, and go into switch test by pressing the red button in coin door until you see only two flashing ##'s on the backglass. The ## represents the switch(es) that are reporting closed. Refer to chart in post#123 above... You may have to adjust switches or remove caps/diodes so that the game shows 00 [or nothing] so the game switches all work properly.
The TEST can only show one closed switch at a time so you could have multiples reporting as closed. The other advice is good but this test is key to quickly determining what switch to troubleshoot first and to also confirm you only have one switch causing problems. A Bally game will never work properly unless 00 is shown in switch test, while all switches are opened/gaped properly.
Disconnected the pacmaze… those are just lamps. That wouldn’t affect the switches. You can also use switch test to determine that when each switch is pressed, only the expected switch is showing as closed. (You might have a shorted diode on the right switch that controls the movement.). You can use switch test to confirm this or desolder (with game off!) the diode to test it. Leave it out and retest with switch test see if you get a different result.
The gate is ok. That blade is there only for tension.
The flipper stack, that first blade should not really be there, or is in the wrong spot... It may have originally been next to one of the other blades to add tension or strength. I would just remove it and readjust to confirm the first two points open and clear, and that the second two points close (and operate the upper flipper).
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