(Topic ID: 108079)

Bally Mr and Mrs Pacman- now a club thread

By CNKay

9 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 250 posts
  • 49 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by HHaase
  • Topic is favorited by 30 Pinsiders

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There are 250 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 5.
#101 2 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Hoping someone can offer me advice in what to check next: I've got ONE light that won't come on! The "C" of the "P-A-C" left drop targets...
I've replaced the SCR, and as it's the only light out, I'm betting it's not the IC (though I suppose that's a possibility?). Reflowed solder at the pins...checked continuity to it (yep)...
I thought maybe the socket itself was faulty or somehow corroded, but I wired up another 555 socket (sans bracket) and it's not lighting either.
So maybe it is the IC? Not sure how to test those, I have a logic probe, but I still don't know what to do with it, ha.
Any advice welcomed!
...oh, and does anyone know where I could buy replacements of the wedge sockets with the mounting bracket? Neither Pinball Life and Marco seem to have them! I can't seem to figure out the part # for it, either...any leads welcomed. Thanks!

Can you take a picture of the socket you need? There are a few different mounting styles. I have some extras.

What kind of connector do you have on the harness? Is the ones where the wires were just pinched into the back of the connector or will the pin pop out? If it pops out you could temporarily swap with another and if it lights then it is probably something on the lamp board.

Or you still have an open connection. Is the socket connected to the braid? I've seen cold solder joints there. I sold my game so I can't check but some had diodes. I worked on a Grand Slam from that timeframe and three of the lamp sockets had bad diodes. Two wouldn't light and one was stuck on.

#102 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Can you take a picture of the socket you need? There are a few different mounting styles. I have some extras.
What kind of connector do you have on the harness? Is the ones where the wires were just pinched into the back of the connector or will the pin pop out? If it pops out you could temporarily swap with another and if it lights then it is probably something on the lamp board.
Or you still have an open connection. Is the socket connected to the braid? I've seen cold solder joints there. I sold my game so I can't check but some had diodes. I worked on a Grand Slam from that timeframe and three of the lamp sockets had bad diodes. Two wouldn't light and one was stuck on.

Thanks for the reply—it seems it was indeed the socket, as I took it apart, re-assembled it, and now it's working. I think there was poor connection between the bracket connected to the braid, then to the internal connections to the lamp. I'm attaching a picture of the style of bracket & socket, if someone knows the part # for these, I'd appreciate it!

...and now something else has come up. Previously, the lamps came on with full force—and now, they're super-dim? To help with diagnosing it, when previously I'd go into the flashing lamp test, I'd hear a sound like a blinker being on in a car—*CLICK-click-CLICK-click*. That sounds not there anymore.

If it ain't one thing, it's another...

IMG_0691 (resized).JPGIMG_0691 (resized).JPGIMG_0692 (resized).JPGIMG_0692 (resized).JPG
#103 2 years ago

Man I need to get my pac completed. It is almost done if I could get the displays working .

#104 2 years ago
Quoted from trimoto:

Man I need to get my pac completed. It is almost done if I could get the displays working .

I feel ya. I've been working on this project since October, I think! Can't find the time to get to the basement to really focus, so I'm always making progress in fits and starts... I'm excited to finally play it at some point!

#105 2 years ago

I have a LED maze board if anyone looking, $50 plus shipping or can bring to Allentown.

#106 2 years ago

I just ordered the LED maze board. Looking forward to a playfield that doesn’t feel like a frying pan.

1 week later
#107 2 years ago

It's here, yay!

PXL_20210609_145843988 (resized).jpgPXL_20210609_145843988 (resized).jpg
#108 2 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

It's here, yay!
[quoted image]

Good to hear. Let me know if you have any issues.

#109 2 years ago

Nice, looking forward to seeing it in action

#110 2 years ago

Installation was easy. I watched the youtube video first. No issues and it works like a champ. It's brighter, but doesn't look much different than the original.

2 weeks later
#111 2 years ago

I know this is a long shot but what speaker do you folks have in your machines? Mine has a unit larger than the hole, looks to be 8" but I'll measure tonight. The majority that look to have a smaller 6" or 6.5" unit. I have uploaded pictures from Pinside ads, one shows the larger speaker and the other the smaller more common unit.

It looks identical to how mine is mounted.

20210628_102928 (resized).jpg20210628_102928 (resized).jpg20210628_102953 (resized).jpg20210628_102953 (resized).jpg
4 weeks later
#112 2 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Installation was easy. I watched the youtube video first. No issues and it works like a champ. It's brighter, but doesn't look much different than the original.

I think that it looks a LOT brighter AND looks way better than the original set up under the PF. It's totally worth it to me. Reduces crazy heat under there, easier to see and easier to explain to people how to play the maze part of the game, and you will never have to replace any obsolete mini bulbs again.

(My game has the smaller speaker in the 2nd pic above)

1 month later
#113 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I think that it looks a LOT brighter AND looks way better than the original set up under the PF. It's totally worth it to me. Reduces crazy heat under there, easier to see and easier to explain to people how to play the maze part of the game, and you will never have to replace any obsolete mini bulbs again.
(My game has the smaller speaker in the 2nd pic above)

...ok, so, that original Pac Lite Matrix board—is it usual for it to get CRAZY hot?

I have a playfield protector on my game. I started a game to mess with a problem I'm having with the flippers, and after a few minutes saw a little condensation at the Matrix; it was ridiculously hot! I think it was beginning to warp my playfield protector!

...I'm ordering an LED one now...

#114 2 years ago

Yes, it gets too hot for certain... was a bad design.

1 month later
#115 2 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I know this is a long shot but what speaker do you folks have in your machines? Mine has a unit larger than the hole, looks to be 8" but I'll measure tonight. The majority that look to have a smaller 6" or 6.5" unit. I have uploaded pictures from Pinside ads, one shows the larger speaker and the other the smaller more common unit.
It looks identical to how mine is mounted. [quoted image][quoted image]

I had a smaller one. I actually bought a replacement, here's a link. Solid unit for a decent price.

https://www.newark.com/mcm-audio-select/55-1185/audio-visual-audio-video-loudspeaker/dp/36C6723

#116 2 years ago

Also, I made some Pac-Man decals for the stand up targets, and have extras if anyone needs

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/123587

1 month later
#117 2 years ago

Hey guys !
happy to join your group, i bought a Pacman pinball and want to start working on the cabinet (complete restore)

i see online pictures of pink side art, but when looking at publicity flyers, it looks more red, and to be honest more desirable.

Anyone of you knows the real color for the pink/red on the cab ?

Thanks

IMG_0291 (resized).PNGIMG_0291 (resized).PNGIMG_0292 (resized).PNGIMG_0292 (resized).PNG
#118 2 years ago
Quoted from Bakchos:

Hey guys !
happy to join your group, i bought a Pacman pinball and want to start working on the cabinet (complete restore)
i see online pictures of pink side art, but when looking at publicity flyers, it looks more red, and to be honest more desirable.
Anyone of you knows the real color for the pink/red on the cab ?
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

I painted a Ms Pacman arcade cabinet a couple of years ago. I also have the Mr Mrs Pac-Man pinball so I color matched a combination of both. I did a YouTube video on the process. But here's the colors that I used.

Paint: Sherwin Williams, Duration Home, Interior Acrylic Latex, Semi -Gloss, Ultradeep Base.

Ms Pac-Man Blue: I had it color matched to a sample I brought in that matched the blue on both my Arcade Cabinet and my Mr Mrs Pac-Man Pinball machine. Match is nearly right on.
CCE*Colorant (OZ) (32) (64) (128)
W1-White (-) (12) ( -) (1)
L1-Blue ( -) (62) ( -) (1)
N1-Raw Umber ( -) (2) (1) (1)
Y1-Yellow ( -) (2) (1) ( -)

Ms Pac-Man Yellow was a standard color whose paint chip very closely matched the Arcade Cabinet. "Confident Yellow 6911"
CCE*Colorant (OZ) (32) (64) (128)
W1-White (-) (19) (-) (-)
N1-Raw Umber (-) (-) (1) (-)
Y1-Yellow (2) (12) (-) (1)

Ms Pac-Man Pink was sampled off my reproduction arcade game control panel overlay. The pink was faded on my Arcade cabinet, but I did find a spot on my Mr Mrs Pac-Man Pinball which was not faded and did match the reproduction control panel overlay. Match is pretty close. The original paint seemed to be reflective on the arcade cabinet (glowing in dim light).
CCE*Colorant (OZ) (32) (64) (128)
W1-White (-) (24) (1) (-)
R3-Magenta (-) (59) (-) (-)
R4-New Red (-) (12) (-) (-)

#119 2 years ago
Quoted from geeteoh:

I painted a Ms Pacman arcade cabinet a couple of years ago. I also have the Mr Mrs Pac-Man pinball so I color matched a combination of both. I did a YouTube video on the process. But here's the colors that I used.
Paint: Sherwin Williams, Duration Home, Interior Acrylic Latex, Semi -Gloss, Ultradeep Base.
Ms Pac-Man Blue: I had it color matched to a sample I brought in that matched the blue on both my Arcade Cabinet and my Mr Mrs Pac-Man Pinball machine. Match is nearly right on.
CCE*Colorant (OZ) (32) (64) (128)
W1-White (-) (12) ( -) (1)
L1-Blue ( -) (62) ( -) (1)
N1-Raw Umber ( -) (2) (1) (1)
Y1-Yellow ( -) (2) (1) ( -)
Ms Pac-Man Yellow was a standard color whose paint chip very closely matched the Arcade Cabinet. "Confident Yellow 6911"
CCE*Colorant (OZ) (32) (64) (128)
W1-White (-) (19) (-) (-)
N1-Raw Umber (-) (-) (1) (-)
Y1-Yellow (2) (12) (-) (1)
Ms Pac-Man Pink was sampled off my reproduction arcade game control panel overlay. The pink was faded on my Arcade cabinet, but I did find a spot on my Mr Mrs Pac-Man Pinball which was not faded and did match the reproduction control panel overlay. Match is pretty close. The original paint seemed to be reflective on the arcade cabinet (glowing in dim light).
CCE*Colorant (OZ) (32) (64) (128)
W1-White (-) (24) (1) (-)
R3-Magenta (-) (59) (-) (-)
R4-New Red (-) (12) (-) (-)

Thanks for the great information !
I will search your video on youtube

#120 2 years ago

I finally picked it up today.

Works great, weird problem without rights flipper tho, everytime I flip, I get 30 points.
If I hold it, score keep going up and up and up.

Can't see any switch that would make contact from the coil impact...
No idea what can do this...

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#121 2 years ago
Quoted from Bakchos:

I finally picked it up today.
Works great, weird problem without rights flipper tho, everytime I flip, I get 30 points.
If I hold it, score keep going up and up and up.
Can't see any switch that would make contact from the coil impact...
No idea what can do this...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I’m not sure what the two gates leading to the eject saucers score, but sometimes those gates can mysteriously add points (similar to spinners on other machines).. just throwing out what has stymied me before with ghost-scoring.

#122 2 years ago
Quoted from Bakchos:

I finally picked it up today.
Works great, weird problem without rights flipper tho, everytime I flip, I get 30 points.
If I hold it, score keep going up and up and up.
Can't see any switch that would make contact from the coil impact...
No idea what can do this...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The flipper buttons also have switch matrix switches for the maze. There is a bad diode I suspect in the row or column.

#123 2 years ago
Quoted from Bakchos:

weird problem without rights flipper tho, everytime I flip, I get 30 points.

Maybe a problem with one of the 30 point rebound switches. There are two of them which is switch #29:

MrMrsPacMan_SW29.pngMrMrsPacMan_SW29.png
MrMrsPacMan_SW29_locations.pngMrMrsPacMan_SW29_locations.png

#124 2 years ago

One thing just popped in my head.

Why do I have 2 transfo in my pacman??

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#125 2 years ago

I found the information on another post, it's a Canadian thing... go figure lol

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/extra-transformer-in-bally-early-ss-canadian

#126 2 years ago

That and a ghost could make a nice topper

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#127 2 years ago

I'm actually surprised you are trying to restore it. It looks really nice already.

Regarding your problem, remove the ball, put the drops up, and go into switch test by pressing the red button in coin door until you see only two flashing ##'s on the backglass. The ## represents the switch(es) that are reporting closed. Refer to chart in post#123 above... You may have to adjust switches or remove caps/diodes so that the game shows 00 [or nothing] so the game switches all work properly.

The TEST can only show one closed switch at a time so you could have multiples reporting as closed. The other advice is good but this test is key to quickly determining what switch to troubleshoot first and to also confirm you only have one switch causing problems. A Bally game will never work properly unless 00 is shown in switch test, while all switches are opened/gaped properly.

#128 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I'm actually surprised you are trying to restore it. It looks really nice already.
Regarding your problem, remove the ball, put the drops up, and go into switch test by pressing the red button in coin door until you see only two flashing ##'s on the backglass. The ## represents the switch(es) that are reporting closed. Refer to chart in post#123 above... You may have to adjust switches or remove caps/diodes so that the game shows 00 [or nothing] so the game switches all work properly.
The TEST can only show one closed switch at a time so you could have multiples reporting as closed. The other advice is good but this test is key to quickly determining what switch to troubleshoot first and to also confirm you only have one switch causing problems. A Bally game will never work properly unless 00 is shown in switch test, while all switches are opened/gaped properly.

Thanks. That was the first test I did.
Nothing is stuck closed.

On thing, I used a small wood chip to stop the right flipper button to connect to second leaf switch, that's the signal that control pacman in the maze, when I do that, I don't get them 30 points, bit as you guess, pacman is nothing moving also.

So it's related to second set of contact on the right flipper button

I also disconnected the pacmaze and I still have the 30 points bug

#129 2 years ago

Disconnected the pacmaze… those are just lamps. That wouldn’t affect the switches. You can also use switch test to determine that when each switch is pressed, only the expected switch is showing as closed. (You might have a shorted diode on the right switch that controls the movement.). You can use switch test to confirm this or desolder (with game off!) the diode to test it. Leave it out and retest with switch test see if you get a different result.
A23797F0-B625-46CE-965C-44E9170F548A (resized).jpegA23797F0-B625-46CE-965C-44E9170F548A (resized).jpeg

#130 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Disconnected the pacmaze… those are just lamps. That wouldn’t affect the switches. You can also use switch test to determine that when each switch is pressed, only the expected switch is showing as closed. (You might have a shorted diode on the right switch that controls the movement.). You can use switch test to confirm this or desolder (with game off!) the diode to test it. Leave it out and retest with switch test see if you get a different result.
[quoted image]

Thanks for helping,

i did not find out the reason why it did the 30 points bug.

BUT, it's fixed now..... i hate when that happens lol

i did reflow MPU and SDB boards connectors, no idea if that was the fix or not.

But it is ok now.

#131 2 years ago

Project is going great, i repaired ALL the numeric display, they all work perfect now, added LEDS to GI

added a red led in the drain hole, added red led to top ghost on playfield plastic.

Leds are nicer with naked eye, i really love it,

Now i broke a white drop target while playing, i have over 300 games on it already lol

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#132 2 years ago
Quoted from Bennyv07:

Designed and printed my custom drop targets with photo paper and wrapped them with clear scotch tape. I’ll eventually get some professionally printed but i wanted to see how they would look. Im really digging them so far. Let me know what you guys think.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those look really cool, do you have the pictures available somewhere ?

#133 2 years ago

Got my topper

40F41F41-98D1-4352-B15A-283278CF0EBB (resized).jpeg40F41F41-98D1-4352-B15A-283278CF0EBB (resized).jpeg85A44923-D847-4E16-8077-6A020CC99EDD (resized).jpeg85A44923-D847-4E16-8077-6A020CC99EDD (resized).jpeg
#134 2 years ago

I cant wait to get mine going. I like the topper!

#135 2 years ago

À other day, another improvement..

Took the crappy neon out.
Installed led stripe around backglass.

Way better!

Now if only we had a hardtop for it

I let you find which one is the stock tube vs the leds

3E0B9FAC-FD47-4EF8-A2BE-944DD76A330F (resized).jpeg3E0B9FAC-FD47-4EF8-A2BE-944DD76A330F (resized).jpeg626AE34D-10A1-4CCD-9118-97ABDFD03F99 (resized).jpeg626AE34D-10A1-4CCD-9118-97ABDFD03F99 (resized).jpeg
#136 2 years ago
Quoted from Bakchos:

À other day, another improvement..
Took the crappy neon out.
Installed led stripe around backglass.
Way better!
Now if only we had a hardtop for it
I let you find which one is the stock tube vs the leds [quoted image][quoted image]

Pic #2 = new LEDs for backglass. Looks nice!

1 week later
#137 2 years ago

Some upgrades,
Alltek MPU
custom made plunger knob
And ordered the led pacmaze today

4293877C-033C-447C-A153-F50177BE99C7 (resized).jpeg4293877C-033C-447C-A153-F50177BE99C7 (resized).jpeg7E30EFC9-4424-40CE-A024-2F5D2F62A00E (resized).jpeg7E30EFC9-4424-40CE-A024-2F5D2F62A00E (resized).jpeg
#138 2 years ago

Every Mr Mrs Pac-man needs an LED Pac-maze.

#139 2 years ago
Quoted from geeteoh:

Every Mr Mrs Pac-man needs an LED Pac-maze.

You are really fast on the shipping

Can't wait to install it !

#140 2 years ago
Quoted from Bakchos:

You are really fast on the shipping
Can't wait to install it !

We love our geeteoh v3 led pac-maze and have another kit to install on our 2nd M&MPM.
~Steveo

#141 2 years ago

Question for owners,

when you are already in a game and ready to shoot ball 2,

if you press start does it cancel your current game and restart a new one ?

i just changed my MPU for an Alltek and didnt think it was doing this before

#142 2 years ago
Quoted from Bakchos:

when you are already in a game and ready to shoot ball 2,

if you press start does it cancel your current game and restart a new one ?

Once you're on the 2nd ball in play, there's no going back to ball one in the same game. Pressing the start button will cancel the current game and start a new one.
As long as the game is on the 1st ball in play, you can add new players till you have four players.
That's how all early Ballys work.

#143 2 years ago

Player 4 Display connector

IMG_20220101_195012051 (resized).jpgIMG_20220101_195012051 (resized).jpg
#144 2 years ago

Can someone check the switch on the lane switch coil please.
I have a leaf switch notre connected to anything..

Also the right flipper coil switch, my stack looks weird..

B843EC6C-6825-4172-A162-1F5C2542110A (resized).jpegB843EC6C-6825-4172-A162-1F5C2542110A (resized).jpegDCEA67A1-A6FE-43B3-AF2E-9CC77FC5369B (resized).jpegDCEA67A1-A6FE-43B3-AF2E-9CC77FC5369B (resized).jpeg
#145 2 years ago

The gate is ok. That blade is there only for tension.

The flipper stack, that first blade should not really be there, or is in the wrong spot... It may have originally been next to one of the other blades to add tension or strength. I would just remove it and readjust to confirm the first two points open and clear, and that the second two points close (and operate the upper flipper).

#146 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

The gate is ok. That blade is there only for tension.
The flipper stack, that first blade should not really be there, or is in the wrong spot... It may have originally been next to one of the other blades to add tension or strength. I would just remove it and readjust to confirm the first two points open and clear, and that the second two points close (and operate the upper flipper).

Thank you for the fast answer, i want to replace all the leaf switch and didn't know if they were the original ones

#147 2 years ago

Made my own stickers for fun

BFE11707-84FF-4EA3-97B9-BE7240814766 (resized).jpegBFE11707-84FF-4EA3-97B9-BE7240814766 (resized).jpeg
#148 2 years ago

Led Pacmaze installed from Geeteoh,

all i can say is WOW !!

night and day, you have to get this mod if you own that pin !!

#149 2 years ago

Got my playfield protector today.
Had to trim 3 small spots, but I love it.

Only complain....makes the game silent!

09D347B5-56C3-4C6F-A354-97771EF33E95 (resized).jpeg09D347B5-56C3-4C6F-A354-97771EF33E95 (resized).jpeg6BF15542-CE7E-4488-9688-918AC3E4502C (resized).jpeg6BF15542-CE7E-4488-9688-918AC3E4502C (resized).jpeg
#150 2 years ago

That's not all it does.

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