(Topic ID: 108079)

Bally Mr and Mrs Pacman- now a club thread

By CNKay

9 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 249 posts
  • 48 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by Bobpinball
  • Topic is favorited by 30 Pinsiders

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There are 249 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 5.
#51 3 years ago

I have this pin and just replaced all the boards except the sound board. The old boards work fine if anyone needs one I'll sell them to you.

#52 3 years ago

Can anyone tell me why My pac man isn't working? It was working fine and I installed LED's and replaced all the boards with new one's and it still does nothing. This video is of what it is doing. The boards in this video are the old one's but when I replaced the boards with new one's the machine does the same thing still. Someone please help! it's driving me crazy!!!

#53 3 years ago

Hello all! I just blew out fuse 1 on the rectifier board and all of my lights ad the solenoid expander no longer work but everything else sees to play fine. Solenoids fire and score points during gameplay currently all switches work and sound is fine. Just have no lighting on the playfield at all! Anyone know why this could have happened? 20a fuse. I dont see anything shorting together under the playfield in any of the light circuits in the gi or any any of the lighting sockets under the playfield?

1 week later
#54 3 years ago

Anyone know how I might troubleshoot a single yellow light out on the maze? I've swapped bulbs before, but this time it's not the bulb. I've also reflowed solder to just that lamp, but still nothing. I tried to tone it over to the connectors, but they all seem to tone to every pin, which I don't understand. Any advice appreciated, or I'll end up buying that sweet LED maze board.

#55 3 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Anyone know how I might troubleshoot a single yellow light out on the maze? I've swapped bulbs before, but this time it's not the bulb. I've also reflowed solder to just that lamp, but still nothing. I tried to tone it over to the connectors, but they all seem to tone to every pin, which I don't understand. Any advice appreciated, or I'll end up buying that sweet LED maze board.

In the mr mrs Pacman manual and schematics there is a layout of the pac maze and each color and position are given a number and assigned a transistor on your lighting board. I just repaired my pacmaze and I had to replace a couple transistors and it works perfectly now!

#56 3 years ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

In the mr mrs Pacman manual and schematics there is a layout of the pac maze and each color and position are given a number and assigned a transistor on your lighting board. I just repaired my pacmaze and I had to replace a couple transistors and it works perfectly now!

This is a good idea. I'll try this, thank you.

3 weeks later
#57 3 years ago

Has anyone on here put led displays in as a complete set? I have a set I just swapped over from the plasma displays. The new led display work perfectly fine I tested them all in my centaur 1 machine. When I put them in my mr mrs Pac, I’m not getting a millions place number on the 7 digit displays during game play or in test mode. I can put the plasma back in and the plasma work fine. Any ideas? Should work the same as centaur plug and play I thought it’s a head scratcher.

BBFACFCC-72B6-4B52-9430-8126007059A7 (resized).jpegBBFACFCC-72B6-4B52-9430-8126007059A7 (resized).jpeg
#58 3 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinscore-displays-help

I had a problem getting mine to work too. This worked for me

Post #49

#59 3 years ago
Quoted from Hop-Pac:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinscore-displays-help
I had a problem getting mine to work too. This worked for me
Post #49

Thank you, removing The wire at the #11 pin on each of the 7 digit displays harness did the trick! The wire can always be put back in the harness if I decide to go back to plasma displays this works great!

#60 3 years ago

Cool
Glad it worked out for you

#61 3 years ago

Before and after LED displays

659AA6A7-E52C-4563-8DDE-0EABDF2280A9 (resized).jpeg659AA6A7-E52C-4563-8DDE-0EABDF2280A9 (resized).jpegBD67C9EE-EC64-4930-BB51-66423BE740A2 (resized).jpegBD67C9EE-EC64-4930-BB51-66423BE740A2 (resized).jpeg
#62 3 years ago

Very nice. I went with blue also

#63 3 years ago

Does anyone make the plastics for this game? I would like a new set and I’m sure I’m not the only one here that would?

1 month later
#64 3 years ago

In the process of repairing the S&T sound board for a clients Mr & Mrs Pac-Man game, I found an issue that may help other owners that come across this found problem.
All the boards in this game work except there was no sounds from the S&T board. It does boot up with the flashes like normal but nothing except the two boot up blips for sound. I recapped the board and verified it worked on the bench and it sounded great. Next, I installed it in the game and still has the same no sound problem. Then I checked the supplied voltages on J1 and all measured good. I found that the -5v at TP4 was reading around -2v so something was loading down the -5v. Now I'm thinking I must have missed something so I bench tested the board again and it worked. The -5v on TP4 was good. Then I started searching where the -5v traces go and this is when I noticed there is a -5v trace next to a mounting hole. This hole shows wear from a mounting screw and the trace was exposed. I examined another S&T board that I had and sure enough the screws marks show it was mounted opposite corners. Yes this was the problem shorting -5v directly to ground by the screw. Funny thing is, I believe this was factory installed this way since the board had no screw marks on the opposite corners and it had the correct game serial number label. Here's a couple of possible issues with -5v shorting to ground. The S&T -5v regulator will get very hot and the supply voltage comes from the 6.3v GI bus which could also cause too much load on the GI bus, connectors and fuse. Even if your S&T works, you may want to check where the two screws are used. The questionable screw on this S&T was at the top right. Also, I think the bracket underneath this screw could short another trace close by. It seems the brackets are mounted backwards. A quick fix, if you don't correct the brackets, is to use nylon washers on the backside and front of the board to isolate the screw. Or a better solution is to correct the orientation of both brackets. It would be interesting to see if other games were made with this potential problem.

20200809_212212 (resized).jpg20200809_212212 (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#65 3 years ago

I have a Mr Mrs Pacman I might be parting out. Let me know what you are interested in. Complete worling playfield with wear in grid area is $350.

1 week later
#66 3 years ago

Hey all,

Bought a pretty dirty, but apparently “was working before it was unplugged and stored for years” Mr & Mrs Pac-Man, and I’m just starting to figure out what’s up.

Going to re-cap the S&T, so that’s currently off the game, but I’m having trouble figuring out what to plug in where...I can’t figure it out from the manual.

Attaching pictures...any help? Or would someone mind putting up pictures of what connects where in their back box, so I can copy your work?

Thanks!

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#67 3 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Hey all,
Bought a pretty dirty, but apparently “was working before it was unplugged and stored for years” Mr & Mrs Pac-Man, and I’m just starting to figure out what’s up.
Going to re-cap the S&T, so that’s currently off the game, but I’m having trouble figuring out what to plug in where...I can’t figure it out from the manual.
Attaching pictures...any help? Or would someone mind putting up pictures of what connects where in their back box, so I can copy your work?
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I can take some pics this evening when I get home. Which board(s) are you looking for specifically? Just the S&T?

#68 3 years ago
Quoted from Hop-Pac:

I can take some pics this evening when I get home. Which board(s) are you looking for specifically? Just the S&T?

All of them, honestly. I feel like I’m missing connections...?

#69 3 years ago

Here is the S&T

IMG_20200907_185247035 (resized).jpgIMG_20200907_185247035 (resized).jpgIMG_20200907_185402191 (resized).jpgIMG_20200907_185402191 (resized).jpg
#70 3 years ago

Thanks, Hop-Pac ! That cleared up a couple things.

Could anyone post a photo of the MPU connections? I can't find anything that seems right for J5 (along the top), and its length suggests to me that maybe it's supposed to be two connectors in that one line...but I've got spots where everything else fits...?

Very confused.

#71 3 years ago

There is nothing along the top, only 4 connectors.

I'll pm you I have mine open.

#72 3 years ago
Quoted from CNKay:

There is nothing along the top, only 4 connectors.
I'll pm you I have mine open.

HA! Really?!?! Amazing. I was watching a TNT video where they've got the back open, and I thought that's what I saw...but it seems like there SHOULD be things there, from looking at the manual? Wish they made the connection lineup clearer...

I would appreciate photos, if you can! Thanks much.

#73 3 years ago

Another question for long-time havers of this particular pin: the one I just acquired has a lot of wear over the little display that's right above the flipper gap (see photo). I can tell that's from the display insert not being flush with the playfield. The screws don't feel flush with the display itself, either.

Is this usual? Or are these after-market screws, and this display isn't adjusted properly, so I should figure out how to kind of level everything out? Any guidance greatly appreciated!

IMG_8301 (resized).JPGIMG_8301 (resized).JPG
2 months later
#74 3 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Another question for long-time havers of this particular pin: the one I just acquired has a lot of wear over the little display that's right above the flipper gap (see photo). I can tell that's from the display insert not being flush with the playfield. The screws don't feel flush with the display itself, either.
Is this usual? Or are these after-market screws, and this display isn't adjusted properly, so I should figure out how to kind of level everything out? Any guidance greatly appreciated!
[quoted image]

Any tricks or suggestions on how to level these things? Mine is a little too low and the ball will stop on it and get stuck on the edge.

#75 3 years ago
Quoted from TZ:

Any tricks or suggestions on how to level these things? Mine is a little too low and the ball will stop on it and get stuck on the edge.

No one’s responded to my post from a couple months ago, and I haven’t been able to get mine to level. I went ahead and bought a playfield protector for the game, so it’ll be level.

Still in the process of getting the game cleaned up and working (fixed the power issues; now waiting on a new MPU), but I’ll come back here and post when I do.

#76 3 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

No one’s responded to my post from a couple months ago, and I haven’t been able to get mine to level. I went ahead and bought a playfield protector for the game, so it’ll be level.
Still in the process of getting the game cleaned up and working (fixed the power issues; now waiting on a new MPU), but I’ll come back here and post when I do.

So I just ended up adding a washer at each screw location between the lens and the playfield. It works fairly well, just make sure the washers are small enough so they aren't visible. The screws are definitely the factory screws and fit well.

#77 3 years ago

I believe there is some high density foam strips that help level the small clear window... FYI, the screws look original.

#78 3 years ago

Left overs from when I was in the club! If anyone needs these shoot me a PM.

D9484DBB-B471-434A-BCFA-C21E6C7CC284 (resized).jpegD9484DBB-B471-434A-BCFA-C21E6C7CC284 (resized).jpeg
1 month later
#79 3 years ago

Made some progress, game boots up, sounds come on, seems great—except the game immediately tilts, upon starting a game.

The three different tilt switches are not closed.

...what else to check?

#80 3 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Made some progress, game boots up, sounds come on, seems great—except the game immediately tilts, upon starting a game.
The three different tilt switches are not closed.
...what else to check?

The small brown disc capacitors on each of the tilts. One is likely shorted.

#81 3 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

The small brown disc capacitors on each of the tilts. One is likely shorted.

Thanks for this, it got me to look more closely at the tilt locations, and sure enough, it WAS a short, just one I hadn't notice before. This wire (completely exposed!) was shorted to the metal bracket. Pulled it away from making contact, no more tilt on game start!

Gonna clear that up, obviously. I'm assuming someone just lazily put a fully exposed wire to make a necessary connection, here—could someone post a pic of what their tilt bob setup is like? This is my first Bally, and you may be able to see in the picture, it looks like someone just connected a wire from the bob to where it should meet the rest of the wiring; I'm guessing that's NOT how this should be? On my Williams games, this wire (in addition to being insulated) is connected under the bracket that holds the tilt bob to the cabinet...

IMG_9658 (resized).JPGIMG_9658 (resized).JPG
#82 3 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

I'm assuming someone just lazily put a fully exposed wire to make a necessary connection,

That bare wire is factory, it's soft and flexible to minimise any effect on the swinging tilt plumb-bob.

It shouldn't be screwed to the slam switch assembly though, it should be screwed to the wood board on its own.

First picture is the generic Bally setup.
Second picture shows someone moved the slam switch close to the tilt plumb-bob in what looks like a similar way to yours with the bare wire screwed to the slam assembly.

TiltBoard.jpgTiltBoard.jpg
TiltBoard2.jpgTiltBoard2.jpg

#83 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

That bare wire is factory, it's soft and flexible to minimise any effect on the swinging tilt plumb-bob.
It shouldn't be screwed to the slam switch assembly though, it should be screwed to the wood board on its own.
First picture is the generic Bally setup.
Second picture shows someone moved the slam switch close to the tilt plumb-bob in what looks like a similar way to yours with the bare wire screwed to the slam assembly.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

This is super-helpful, thank you so much!

#84 3 years ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

I have a Mr Mrs Pacman I might be parting out. Let me know what you are interested in. Complete worling playfield with wear in grid area is $350.

RustyLizard If its still available, can i see pictures please? Thanks

#85 3 years ago
Quoted from Bennyv07:

rustylizard If its still available, can i see pictures please? Thanks

Sold the whole game. Long gone, sorry.

#86 3 years ago

Anyone got a lead on replacement covers for the 7381 lamps in the maze?

Somehow, just about all the yellow lamps in my maze (tho not all) are fried, as in, brown and brittle, so in taking some of the lamp covers off, they’re also toasty and brittle, and falling apart, unfortunately...

Can’t seem to find replacements, tho! Anyone had any luck on that?

#87 3 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Anyone got a lead on replacement covers for the 7381 lamps in the maze?
Somehow, just about all the yellow lamps in my maze (tho not all) are fried, as in, brown and brittle, so in taking some of the lamp covers off, they’re also toasty and brittle, and falling apart, unfortunately...
Can’t seem to find replacements, tho! Anyone had any luck on that?

I would measure the diameter of the plastic inserts and see if any of these will work.

https://www.pinballlife.com/round-inserts.html

Just be careful when removing them. You may need to use a heat gun to soften the glue holding them in place.

#88 3 years ago
Quoted from Bennyv07:

I would measure the diameter of the plastic inserts and see if any of these will work.
https://www.pinballlife.com/round-inserts.html
Just be careful when removing them. You may need to use a heat gun to soften the glue holding them in place.

Sorry, but the plastic covers on the playfield aren’t my issue: the sheaths that cover the lamps under the clear plastics are the issue.

The lamps in the maze are covered with silicone “condom”-like sheaths, and I’ve seen similar on other games over 44/47s (like the green GI on Space Station), but these tiny lamps are uniquely, well, tiny. So I can’t find the right size silicone sheaths.

#89 3 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Sorry, but the plastic covers on the playfield aren’t my issue: the sheaths that cover the lamps under the clear plastics are the issue.
The lamps in the maze are covered with silicone “condom”-like sheaths, and I’ve seen similar on other games over 44/47s (like the green GI on Space Station), but these tiny lamps are uniquely, well, tiny. So I can’t find the right size silicone sheaths.

Sorry, completely misunderstood. Did you try these from Marcospecialties?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-4

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-6

Capture1.PNGCapture1.PNGCapture2.PNGCapture2.PNG
#90 3 years ago
Quoted from Bennyv07:

Sorry, completely misunderstood. Did you try these from Marcospecialties?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-4
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-6[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm hoping someone else in the thread will comment on whether or not there's a way to modify these, to make them work. The 7381s are much smaller than the lamps these sheaths are designed to fit.

#91 3 years ago

Looking for a little help here. I recently picked up a MMPM last week and it had a few problems. Random, pop bumper and left slingshot would go off when the right flipper is activated. So, i rerouted the flipper wires separately from the bundle and that seemed to fix the problem. Now i have a new "problem" that wasn't there before. I distinctly remember being able to do a skill shot with every new ball. Now, the red arrow doesn't come on at ball launch. I can see the red arrow strobe in attract mode and can still access the maze during regular gameplay, but it seems the skillshot at ball launch doesn't come up anymore. To be clear, this didn't happen before servicing the machine. It would work every time and It doesn't effect the gameplay, but it still sucks that its not there anymore. Anyone know what is causing this? Any help is greatly appreciated.

2 weeks later
#92 3 years ago

Designed and printed my custom drop targets with photo paper and wrapped them with clear scotch tape. I’ll eventually get some professionally printed but i wanted to see how they would look. Im really digging them so far. Let me know what you guys think.

24CBF3F4-9E5C-4B2B-8C52-37684432639F (resized).jpeg24CBF3F4-9E5C-4B2B-8C52-37684432639F (resized).jpeg328A6FCD-E83C-4E10-B3D0-D99AEF80BFBE (resized).jpeg328A6FCD-E83C-4E10-B3D0-D99AEF80BFBE (resized).jpeg0A42BCE6-B5C4-4FDC-BBC0-359914B175CA.jpeg0A42BCE6-B5C4-4FDC-BBC0-359914B175CA.jpeg7BB1BF79-2274-4CAF-8152-C66CA34F4EFC.jpeg7BB1BF79-2274-4CAF-8152-C66CA34F4EFC.jpegBCCD67BD-7130-4050-86FD-FEB444923803.jpegBCCD67BD-7130-4050-86FD-FEB444923803.jpeg341CBC5F-99D9-4DC5-87FD-FF9949909D45.jpeg341CBC5F-99D9-4DC5-87FD-FF9949909D45.jpeg

#93 3 years ago
Quoted from Bennyv07:

Designed and printed my custom drop targets with photo paper and wrapped them with clear scotch tape. I’ll eventually get some professionally printed but i wanted to see how they would look. Im really digging them so far. Let me know what you guys think.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Bennyv07 those look great! If you were to share details on how to print those at home, I'm sure the thread would appreciate it!

Along those lines, I'm curious if anyone in the thread has bought these "target armor cushioned decals", from Ebay, for the targets behind the drops? I like the look of them, but they seem super over-priced...am I wrong on that? Is there another/better option? I can't find other replacements for the decals, or the full targets themselves, anywhere...

ebay.com link: itm

#94 3 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

bennyv07 those look great! If you were to share details on how to print those at home, I'm sure the thread would appreciate it!
Along those lines, I'm curious if anyone in the thread has bought these "target armor cushioned decals", from Ebay, for the targets behind the drops? I like the look of them, but they seem super over-priced...am I wrong on that? Is there another/better option? I can't find other replacements for the decals, or the full targets themselves, anywhere...
ebay.com link: itm

I printed them on photo paper and sized each design within a 1x .875 in. border. That's what I measured them at so the Pac-man/Ghosts are visible on the drop targets and can appear to be running on the playfield. Cut them out to the 1x.875 border and they should fit directly at size with the face of the drop target. From there, just lay the design flat and wrap scotch tape evenly over the front of the design, making sure to leave enough tape to wrap behind the target and secure it down on both sides. You can also use laminated prints but I find this method easier and I like the print results on photo paper.

reconsider59 here are some decals for the Pac-man drop targets. I too had a hard time tracking these down by Google search.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DC-71&Category_Code=GS-1639

capture (resized).PNGcapture (resized).PNG

1 week later
#95 3 years ago

Does anyone in here have an extra MMPM back box wire harness? I’m in need of one to get another game up and running. Any help much appreciated!

#96 3 years ago

Hey everyone, not sure what to check next: I’ve got two (just two!) lamps out, Yellow22 on the maze, and the A of the PAC on the left targets.

Transistors have been replaced on the lamp driver. Perhaps the resistors have failed?

Just not sure what else could have failed...

#97 3 years ago

...and another question! Anyone know what the proper size of the star posts should be? The game that I have includes some that are 1 1/16", some 1 3/16"s. I would think they should be standardized across the game, right?

Is there any problem with just replacing with all 1 3/16" across the board? Seems it should be be fine, to me, but curious to know if anyone knows what stock was. Also: why the hell isn't this in the manual?!?! Or am I just missing it?

1 week later
#98 3 years ago

The next time someone has their Playfield up, can you take a pic of the Right Flipper switch stack? I need to replace my leaf switches and I'm not sure if mine are correctly stacked. It looks a little bit weird. I'd like to see how others are built to compare.
Thanks

1 week later
#99 2 years ago
Quoted from Pbpins:

Left overs from when I was in the club! If anyone needs these shoot me a PM.
[quoted image]

Do you still have the back glasses available? Looking for a set.

1 month later
#100 2 years ago

Hoping someone can offer me advice in what to check next: I've got ONE light that won't come on! The "C" of the "P-A-C" left drop targets...

I've replaced the SCR, and as it's the only light out, I'm betting it's not the IC (though I suppose that's a possibility?). Reflowed solder at the pins...checked continuity to it (yep)...

I thought maybe the socket itself was faulty or somehow corroded, but I wired up another 555 socket (sans bracket) and it's not lighting either.

So maybe it is the IC? Not sure how to test those, I have a logic probe, but I still don't know what to do with it, ha.

Any advice welcomed!

...oh, and does anyone know where I could buy replacements of the wedge sockets with the mounting bracket? Neither Pinball Life and Marco seem to have them! I can't seem to figure out the part # for it, either...any leads welcomed. Thanks!

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