T/S = troubleshoot, I'm guessing

I've given up on the Bally/Stern reset circuitry. I've just had too many of them that failed to reset reliably on the bench and, more importantly, in the game. I now use Dallas reset ICs on my boards and have had great success.

Chris knows my frustration first-hand as he went to power up my Quicksilver at Expo last year and it took a few tries before it finally reset. Now with a Dallas IC it resets every time.

I bought these as I either couldn't find stock or a good price on the part in Clay's write up (not realizing that GPE carries an alternative.)

ebay.com link: itm

Ed's part is here:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP130-460DI%2FTO

The main difference between the two is the pinout and the reset delay. Either will work and you end up removing a bunch of components from the circuit. I think you really only have to remove about a half dozen components to isolate the "new" reset circuit from the "old" circuit, but there will be many more unused components you can remove if you want.

First thing I check is reset circuit by shorting CPU pins 39 and 40 together. If that doesn't work then I move on to ROMs and such.