(Topic ID: 201403)

Bally MPU 7 flashes but no boot!

By PinWiz1969

6 years ago


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#1 6 years ago

Hey guys. Looking for some help on this one. I have a 35 MPU that flashes 7 times and then the 1, 2, 3, and 4 in the bonus section light up, and that’s it.

Now I know for certain this is going to be a cold solder joint because when I bend the left side of the board a little bit, the game boots, and will usually run until it’s shut off again.

My question is in what section of board makes the game boot after the seventh flash. The only socket that has not been touched on the board is the U9 socket.

I also have another problem where the thousand digit on all the displays are faint. MPU was put into another game and displays function normally. SDB was also put into another game and tested good.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

#2 6 years ago

Sounds like you need to resolder the male pins on the MPU board for the boot up issue.

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from PinWiz1969:

I also have another problem where the thousand digit on all the displays are faint. MPU was put into another game and displays function normally. SDB was also put into another game and tested good.

You could have one display causing the issue. Mainly this comes from a common pin used on all the displays. Try disconnecting all but one display. If it lights up correctly, keep adding one.

#4 6 years ago

I have installed new male pins at J1 and J4 already. I also repinned the female pins of J4. As for the displays, I did disconnect one at a time, leaving the other 4 plugged in. I guess that would be the same thing as just having one plugged in, but I will try it that way too. I'm completely stumped on the MPU though.

#5 6 years ago

Would really help if you told us what game you were trying to use this in. Some multi-ball games will not come up after the 7th flash because it does not see all the balls.

#6 6 years ago

It is a Bally Lost World.

#7 6 years ago

CPU interrupt problem? The four lights lit up is probably the decoders parked at input 0000

can you check U10 P18 for the zero cross detection? Should be pulsing at 120hz. If all you have is DMM, just make sure it is not stuck at 0.00 or 5.00vdc.

1 month later
#8 6 years ago

So I gave up with the MPU and got an Altek MPU. I’m still missing the 1000’s digit on all displays. Repinned female pins on both J1 and J4 on MPU.

I also have tried unplugging all displays except one. All 5 give the same result. It has to be wiring, but where?

#9 6 years ago

Have you got original gas displays or newer led segment displays?

#11 6 years ago

A missing digit is easy to trouble shoot. The 1,000s digit is J1-4 on the MPU. The connector is bad or the wire is open or shorted. Could be a bad display or more likely a problem at the connector on the MPU.

#12 6 years ago

so maybe a broken wire since you've redone the connectors (or just bad job doing that). Tone out the wire from the connector back to the displays.

1 month later
#13 6 years ago

I was digging into this further. When I do female pins on a connector, I do them one at a time, and always put them back in the same spot where i took them out of. I guess someone before me must have repinned J1, and put a wire in the wrong position. I put the wire where it was supposed to be, and the displays are now working perfectly!

Thanks to everyone for all your help and suggestions!

6 months later
#14 5 years ago

Sorry for opening this old thread.
I have been working on a Stern MPU-200 board (nine ball) and had the same problem, 7 flashes but locked up before attract mode.
I noted the VMA (valid memory address) signal pin 5 on the 6800 was not pulsing after the 7th LED flash.
Also the MPU LED was not illuminated dim after the 7th and the PIAs were not outputting (no displays on pin).

It turned out to be broken (cracked) pins on Eprom's U1 & U2. I assume the same problem can occur with old corroded IC sockets (or being pushed and pulled over the years).
I don't normally fix pinballs but I would assume this is a more common problem than is realised.
I have to replace the eproms later but did a temp repair to prove it.
Thanks for your thread as it was one of the few that had this subject.

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