(Topic ID: 186278)

Bally Medusa Flippers - Thinking about re-wiring them....

By Arcane

7 years ago



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  • 6 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by ekthoren
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 7 years ago

Folks and Medusa enthusiasts,

I had a strange failure happening to me this past weekend. A friend came over and apparently likes to play holding the flipper button depressed most of the time. This bad habit resulted in one of the upper flipper coil staying locked, burning the plastic sleeve, locking the flipper in the wrong position and burning the general fuse, with a screeching halt and a dark playfield.

First I am puzzled that the 1 Amp Slow-blow fuse on the playfield did not take the brunt of the vicious attack...... Instead the 110VAC fuse took the entire machine down.

Anyway, after looking at what may have happened, I replaced the main fuse, quickly changed the coil, re-adjusted the double contacts on the zipper flippers and was in business shortly after.

medusa-flippers (resized).jpgmedusa-flippers (resized).jpg

If you look at the schematics, you do not get a very clear picture of what is taking place in this machine. My understanding (and I could be wrong) is the following (correct me please):

1) The power is sent to the zipper flippers (upper playfield) first.
2) The zipper flippers when reaching their end of stroke, send power to the lower flippers.
3) The lower flippers have their own EOS device plus an additional switch to cut the lights under the flipper bats.

I find this stuff highly inefficient and was thinking about re-wiring the lower flippers directly (with a slow-blow fuse of course) so that they are powered directly by the flipper buttons. I can thus, bypass the lousy switch assembly on the Zipper flippers and simplify it to a single EOS on the zipper flippers.

Granted, the flipper buttons will now see twice as much current than before. I suspect they can handle the extra load with no problem and they are a lot more accessible for maintenance than the zipper Flipper contacts located on the upper playfield.

What do you guys think and have you done such modification, or something different?

Thanks for chiming in.

Yves

Maybe I should have posted this to the Medusa Club owners forum.....too.

#2 7 years ago

I don't think you're reading that correctly... I'd read that as all four coils get power at once on the top, and then secondary switches on the lower flippers connect the ground to the zippers, so the zippers fire a tiny bit later than the lowers. Both have their own separate EOS switches.

While you can rewire it so that the flippers are in parallel, your flippers will be weaker. I tried this on my harlem and there was a noticable difference. There's a reason they did it like this. My real preference would be to add a second set of flipper buttons so you can stage them, but that gets a bit involved.

#3 7 years ago
Quoted from Arcane:

First I am puzzled that the 1 Amp Slow-blow fuse on the playfield did not take the brunt of the vicious attack...... Instead the 110VAC fuse took the entire machine down.

If you look at the schematics, the flippers get their power before the fuse. The playfield fuse only protects the rest of the playfield coils. The flippers are protected by the rectifier fuse, or in your case, the line fuse.

#4 7 years ago

To confirm from my machine,
1) The cabinet flipper buttons are wired to first activate the lower flippers.
2) When the lower flipper reaches the end of stroke, a second stacked switch on the EOS switch then activates the upper zipper flipper.
3) When the upper zipper flipper reaches the end of stroke, a second stacked switch on the EOS switch then switches off the lamps under the lower flipper bat red insert.

As zacaj mentioned, you need that slight delay between the lower and upper flippers to reduce the otherwise massive instant rush of current affecting power supply to the double flippers.

The concern is the fact that the first point of protection being the F4 fuse for the solenoid voltage on the rectifier board didn't blow. Someone may have previously installed the wrong fuse (a slow blow?) and overfused it. The schematic says games with 4 or more flippers should have a 6 amp "Fast Blow" fuse at F4. I just checked my machine and someones previously installed a slow blow fuse there. Grr..

#5 7 years ago

Quench, Zacaj and Dothedoo,

Thank you for your explanations and suggestions. I will check my machine again to see which pair of flippers is wired first.
My Medusa is one of the last ones built #3490 and the wiring may have been modified from the early machines.

I also suspect that a slow-blow fuse may have been installed in lieu of the fast blow F4.

I did not think about the slight delay or staggering of the coils firing. It does make sense to do it the way it was done, as Bally Power Supplies are notoriously undersized.

I will change all the contacts and probably redo the wiring with greater gauge and fresh wires. It should improve the firing dramatically.

Thanks
Yves

#6 7 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

To confirm from my machine,
1) The cabinet flipper buttons are wired to first activate the lower flippers.
2) When the lower flipper reaches the end of stroke, a second stacked switch on the EOS switch then activates the upper zipper flipper.
3) When the upper zipper flipper reaches the end of stroke, a second stacked switch on the EOS switch then switches off the lamps under the lower flipper bat red insert.
As zacaj mentioned, you need that slight delay between the lower and upper flippers to reduce the otherwise massive instant rush of current affecting power supply to the double flippers.
The concern is the fact that the first point of protection being the F4 fuse for the solenoid voltage on the rectifier board didn't blow. Someone may have previously installed the wrong fuse (a slow blow?) and overfused it. The schematic says games with 4 or more flippers should have a 6 amp "Fast Blow" fuse at F4. I just checked my machine and someones previously installed a slow blow fuse there. Grr..

This is how my Medusa flippers are wired too.

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