No spring used on that single coiled stepper unit (00-90 / Match Unit).

The OEM fuse holders suck hind tit as the game hits 30 years in age. Yours is over 40. Replacements need to be installed, which someone has done.

Bell GOng is missing. Probably the solenoid plunger as well. Game will work withouit it for now, just no bell sound for 100 & 1000's. Bell gong for the 10's also missing from the 00-90/Match unit. note the strike gimmick hanging from the assembly. It is supposed to hit a bell gong.

Jones plugs are usually keyed by size. When two identical ones are used, usually the wire loom has waxed twine holding the wiring loom only allowing one particular installation. To be safe, Match a couple wires on one connector and you will be good to go.

All is well.

Yep- looks like wiring was at least done with enough solder to hold well and new fuse holders were obviously needed- you can clean it up if you want (remove old - maybe redo etc...) but I bet electrons find it all to be in working order.

Game does not look super dirty- could use a good going through thats for sure- but not seeing grease bombs everywhere either- which is a great thing.

Higher current fuses. Look at the paper by the fuse holders. Usually 8, 10 and 15 amp fuses.

Original line cords had no ground. Nothing to hook up to unless you want to run wires to exposed trim pieces like the door, leg bolt plates and the patented Bally e-z lift playfield glass and trim.

Don't worry about the taped up wires. Probably from a removed slam switch on the bottom board.

Plug 'er in and fire it up. Press left flipper button to activate the Anti-Cheat or Lock Relay and light the machine up.

Do you have a schematic for your machine?
You can get one from here http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1546/Plan_Bally_Mariner_25_10_13.pdf
when you order parts order a proper schematic as well, very handy.
The schematic has the Jones plugs marked up, by size and wire colours.

Be mindful that some of the wires near the transformer are at main voltage and are exposed.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mains-power-exposed-parts

Fuse are on the schematic and normally slow blow with the exception of the 8 amp mains fuse (fast blow).

Look like plastic covered, so need more info, like the real wire colour.

Yes, look to see if there is braid, just like SS machines. The schematic shows an earth.

Yep, that coil and bracket on the side are the main bell. Here's a photo of mine on Sea Ray, the 2 player version of Mariner:

Bell.JPG

Ditto for the Match unit, where yours also seems to be missing the bell:
Match.JPG

Here are the 3 Jones plugs on mine. All 3 are a different size, so yours seems unique in that respect, maybe related to the 4 player version:
Jones.JPG

Just checked my Bally, the earth is connected to the base of the transformer and to the metal surround of the power SW.

Cheap used parts are rare. Only at a show where someone has a booth set up with good prices. Pinball at the Zoo is great for this.

Those single Jones connector pins are for setting the high score awards (either for a replay or extra ball award) unused can hang or be placed in the dummy holes in the mounting board.

EM's are easy to work on once you familiarize yourself with the operation sequence. Heck, I started doing it for money when I was a kid. Read my profile story.

When you turn power on, hit the left flipper button. Your GI lights should come on. A lot of EMs don't just light up by default.

And as noted, those pins are for setting the award values. There should be a card in the head that tells you what each color is and what each of the available holes is.

When you press the start button, assuming you have some credits in the window, the first thing that should happen is the score reels resetting to zero. See if that happens and report back. If there are no credits, you can try adding some from the coin door, or just cycle the credit unit by hand a couple times.

If you look at the schematic, available on IPDB if you don't have one, find the Ball Count Unit Step Up Solenoid. Follow its traces and you'll see it goes through a number of components: Extra Ball Relay, Ball Index relay, Tilt Relay, Outhole Relay, Coin Unit disc, Player Up Unit disc, Ball Count unit disc and a couple score motor switches. Start looking at those. I'd start with the relays and discs and leave the Score Motor for last.

Each relay has two positions, unlatched and latched. Check the switches in each position. Some will be obviously closed, some obviously open and others will make/break. Watch how they move when you gently push the relay plate in against the coil. That will tell you if any are out of whack. Adjust as necessary and clean lightly. You can use a flexstone if you have one or even a business card moistened with alcohol. You'll probably see some oxidation come off. Don't over-file or go too hard. Once those are done, try running some 600 grit or finer sandpaper over the disc contacts. You'll have to take the disc off to do a proper job, but again, I'd try with it on first. Use the business card trick under the fingers of the spider between those contacts. Wipe the disc rivets down with some light Teflon lube. That will help it turn more easily. Cycle the units by hand to make sure they move freely.

Now try again and see if you get any further.

Start a game with the PF up, score some points, then simulate the ball draining, does the Ball count unit step up coil fire?

It is important to score some points, to energises the ball index coil. This coil is there so if a ball drains without scoring any points, the same ball is replayed.

To simulate the ball draining close the Outhole SW. The score motor should start to turn, and the Ball count step up should fire well be for 180 degrees of the score motor. NOTE- 180 degrees is one cycle of the score motor.

Assuming the Ball count Step up coil is firing.

The ball count unit (and others) have two coils, one to step up and the other to reset. try manually operating the coils, the unit should step up and reset. If it does work, then take off the pawl arms and clean (Red Ring Below) , there will be sticky grease there. Once clean, lightly grease the pivot points. the unit may work fine manually because it is operating slowly but when it is operated via the step up coil, very fast the pawl arms don't work properly due to old grease and/or old WD40 slowing then down. This is common on a machine not been used for some time.

help.jpg

To help you with reading an EM schematic.

Below is the bit of schematic where the Ball count unit fires.

Remember the schematic is drawn as a single player game, first ball up and in the shooter lane, everything else reset to zero.
So when the ball drains we need the following to be true (Did I mention EM games are 100% binary? All SW have three positions – ON, Off and Broken)

Follow the red line from the bottom up.

The Outhole RE must be energised, the ball index Re must be energised, the Extra ball Re DE-energised, then we close a SW on the Score motor (Switches within in a circle are on the score motor) 3A (“3” = cam # starting from the motor end of the Scr motor and “A” is the SW closest to the cam, the bottom one.) the Ball count step up should fire.
On the schematic there is a matrix for the cams on the scr motor. Is you look at the matrix find Cam 3, all cam 3 Sw’s change state @ position 1 (@ 20 degrees.), soon after the scr motor starts to turn.

Remember this example is a single player game, if we had two or more players then other positions of the player unit and coin unit would be used. One last note, the Coin unit would have been better called the "Number of Players Unit", cos that is what it does.

help_1.jpg

The coin unit looks after the number of players, is the same as the ball count unit. It may need a cleaning too.
Often just playing will free up the stepper units. So play play play!!!!

Is the ten point score reel working on the other players? If not, you probably have a stuck PF switch . Likely byone of the rubber ring rebound areas.

From your photos, it looks like you are missing the main bell and the coil plunger for it. The rest is there although that coil also looks a little toasty.

For the match bell, I can see the striker there so I think all you need is the bell and maybe some attaching hardware.

Verify it is or isn't the playfield. Unplug the Jones plug after a games is started. You may choose to unsolder the wire from the connector so only a single wire is removed. Use standard electrical troubleshooting techniques to find the cause.

Check the 10 point relay. Activate the latch plate gently by hand and see if all the switches are making or breaking as they should. Also, check the End of Stroke switch on the 10 point score reel. Press the plunger in by hand and make sure the switch is changing state. Make sure there are no broken/missing wires anywhere on the relay and reel also. I'm venturing a guess that it's the reel EOS switch not de-energizing the relay.

Hi Jackblotto

I got your PM..I will be happy to upload some pics of all the areas you asked for on my working Sea Ray, I will do this tonight overnight.
Check back here in the morning.

That is actually a resistor, not a diode. It is connected into the Coin Lockout Circuit. There has been a lot of debate about what it does, andit is the obsession of pinsider rolf_martin , and I have never figured it out, although the answer must be out there somewhere. The short story is, you can ignore it, it is not affecting anything (not affectng the 10 point circuit either). Also, if you haven't done so, it is probably best to just unsolder the wires from the lockout coil (if there is one on there) and seal them off, it is not needed.

For a bunch of details about that resistor and the coin lockout coil, see post #36 in this thread - there are some pictures and descriptions about it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-bon-voyage-restoration-lite

It should be OK, here is how it looks on the Bally Bon Voyage, you can see it is similar. However the fuse block is pretty hacked up, it looks like 2 of the holders were replaced because somehow the old ones may have burned up? I would consider replacing the entire fuse block with a new one, double-check all the wiring, and double-check all the fuse values.

Also, when you get worried about these things, you can check your schematic. You can see there that 2 of the fuses are wired together with a BLU-R wire, look in section A2. Again, that little BLU-R wire that goes between those 2 fuses looks a little toasty, I'm not sure what that's about.

fuses.jpg

Tell me about it.... my eyes still hurt!

Here are some pics I have on my hard drive...hopefully that, along with pictures FugTM has will get you closer to getting that bad boy up and running.

Fun machine!!

Backbox
Backbox RightBackbox Left[att=2639506,554838 aption="Coin Left"]Fuse RightFuseBox LeftSling LeftSling RightCoin Door

The Bally fuse holder clips are notoriously crappy. You would do well to change them all, as even if they are not broken they are often high-resistance.

The 10 point circuit gets a lot of use in Sea Ray/Mariner. It may have just been that coil's time to go.

It a good idea to get a schematic that is readable. Make sure it is a full sheet version, not a reduced size sheet.

Here are my Sea Ray pictures as requested. It should be noted that everything on this machine is up and working 100%.
I tried to take a few different angles as not to copy fings1 pics.

SEARAY-JonesPlug.JPG
SEARAY-Fuseblock.jpg
SEARAY-LeftSling.JPG
SEARAY-RightSling.JPG

Thanks for sharing those photos.

I picked up a Mariner recently and have begun working on mine. It's missing both bells - the one on the side of the headbox for the 100 and 1000 points. It's also missing the bell on the 0 to 90 stepper for the 10 points. I suspect they were never installed as there are no screw marks on the inside of the headbox where one would normally be located.

I'm trying to track down both the full assembly for the 100 and 1000's and also the bell for the 10's. Would you be able to tell me the diameter of the bell on the stepper unit?

The small bell on the stepper unit is exactly 3 inches across the middle, I measured it.
The larger bell for the 100 and 1000 points looks to be 4 inches across..I did not measure it.

No problem, if you need any more just holler.

Thanks very much for that

I have a lead on sourcing the bell for the stepper unit, but need to track down the assembly for the 100 and 1000's. Right now I have an empty space there.

mariner_bell_assembly_coil_wire.jpg

How easy / hard is it to track one of these down?

I found a williams one.....mine looks almost exactly like this one, bally coil on mine...but the price is good, maybe this will work for you, maybe worth a gamble, maybe someone else here can 'chime' in and tell us if they think this will work for him? (Pun intended! )

Someone named Ken asks him for the diameter, he said 4inches...same as mine.

Bally/Williams 1970's... weren't they almost the same mechanically at that time ?

ebay.com link: Williams Pinball Machine Bell Assembly