(Topic ID: 241280)

Bally Lost World Solenoid Issue


By Tbever

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 88 days ago by Tbever
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 months ago

I am having some problems trouble shooting the solenoids on my Bally Lost World. So far I am experiencing:

- A blown fuse ( I think during power-on?) under the play field.
- While in test mode the coin door solenoid and flippers "Pull in"
- When the machine is powered on the "Knocker" (solenoid in the cabinet) energizes
- There is a pretty loud hum coming from the speaker

And some other observations...

- The rectifier board was replaced with a rottendog by a previous owner and all test points are within spec.
- The solenoid drive board appears to be in good shape. No signs of burnt or blown components.
- Some of the solenoids had been cut. I experienced the same symptoms when they were cut and when I soldered them.

I'm not really sure where I should be focusing my efforts at this point. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Also, as an aside, I created another thread about what I thought was a rectifier issue on the same machine several months ago. Is there some way to link back or move the conversation back to that thread? Thanks again.

#2 3 months ago

What shape is the mpu in? How do the connectors look? The SDB get info from the mpu, so check connectors on both of them.

Check both make and female. Pull the connector off and look at the male pins for tarnish/green. Tug gently on the wire from the plug. It should be snug in the connector.

#3 3 months ago

Also check the driver transistors on the SDB - especially the ones for the solenoids that had the cut wires. Compare the readings to the other transistors.

#4 3 months ago

The knocker coil pulls in and stays energized? You're not leaving it that way are you?

#5 3 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

What shape is the mpu in? How do the connectors look?

The MPU is in pretty nice shape. Im sure all of the connectors would benefit from being replaced. I have replaced the J3 connector on the rectifier board.

#6 3 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Also check the driver transistors on the SDB - especially the ones for the solenoids that had the cut wires. Compare the readings to the other transistors.

What setting should I have on my DMM? Test with the machine on or off?

#7 3 months ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

The knocker coil pulls in and stays energized? You're not leaving it that way are you?

I am pretty sure it stays energised. I havent kept the machine on more than a minute or two while I've been trouble shooting.

#8 3 months ago

With the machine turned off, DMM on resistance:
Red meter lead to left leg, black lead to middle leg
Red meter lead to left leg, black lead to right leg
Red meter lead to middle leg, black lead to right leg
Black meter lead to left leg, red lead to middle leg
Black meter lead to left leg, red lead to right leg
Black meter lead to middle leg, black lead to right leg

Observe readings for each of the above. Put the DMM on the 20K range

Compare the readings of Q17 to other transistors that are not locking on a coil. Refer to the schematic to find a transistor number associated with a working coil. Report back

#9 89 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Black meter lead to middle leg, black lead to right leg

I'm a bit confused with this particular part. There is only one black lead, right?

I did test the other spots. There were three that seemed to give odd readings relative to the rest. I designated "left" as being the top most side of the SDB while mounted in the headbox and "right" as being the bottom most side. I have not had the chance the pull up the schematics and see which ones go where.

I tried to attach a screenshot of the excel doc I made with the DMM readings but the upload failed. I uploaded a pic of the screenshot. Not sure if the numbers are legible. Im making this post on my mobile device.

Most transistors were 1.0 and .3 while the ones out of range were 3+ and 0.

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#10 89 days ago

Sorry
Posted before I finished my coffee.
Should be red lead to right leg.

Based on what I see, Q15 and Q19 are suspect. Q3 is not that far off.

#11 89 days ago

Ok I'll chime in on this...

Did the game play before you bought it? Yes or No

If yes, what have you done to the game that may be causing your problem? If nothing let's move on.

This is just me but I would unhook all connectors for all boards and start from scratch. Then at the rectifier I would plug one thing in and turn on the game. If none of your problems happen then turn off game and plug in another connector at the rectifier and continue to do this until all rectifier plugs are plugged in.

Then I would move to the solenoid driver board and do the exact same thing. If something happens like you explain then at least you have narrowed it done to that plug and you can move on from there. If all is good after the solenoid board has been plugged in them move to the MPU.

Do the same thing at the MPU and see what happens. I have found that all the Bally games that have, that have had weird stuff happen it always seems to be in the connectors not making a good connection. The amount of corrosion that is in those things would surprise you and you can't see that until you take them apart. (see picture) Bad ones on top new ones on the bottom.

I am not saying that checking all those things on the solenoid board with a meter is a bad idea, but before I go soldering stuff on a board I would check the easy connection first.

Let see some pictures up close of the mpu. Is the knocker still locking up when the game is turned on. If so I would say remove it, remember how the wire go so you can at least have the game on long enough to do something.

Someone might say this is a stupid way of doing things, but I think you have to isolate the problem and the board that is having the problem before you do anything. Just my thoughts. Hopefully you will report back. I have the same game and I think it fun to play and we need to get yours going too.

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#12 89 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Sorry
Posted before I finished my coffee.
Should be red lead to right leg.
Based on what I see, Q15 and Q19 are suspect. Q3 is not that far off.

No worries. Q3 goes to the "knocker" solenoid. I haven't check the others yet.

#13 89 days ago
Quoted from timab2000:Ok I'll chime in on this...
Did the game play before you bought it?

No. I bought the game in its current condition. The previous owner got it as a package deal and was not interested in it nor did any troubleshooting to my knowledge.

Quoted from timab2000:

This is just me but I would unhook all connectors for all boards and start from scratch.

I like this style of troubleshooting. I definitely would prefer to check off all the easy troubleshooting before breaking out the soldering gun. I haven't had the chance to do a bottom-up approach, starting with the rectifier, yet. I did unplug J2 from the SDB though (it supplies...the flippers, I think? But more specifically the "Knocker" solenoid.) As expected the knocker didn't energize but I also lost the ability to enter the solenoid test mode

Quoted from timab2000:

I have found that all the Bally games that have, that have had weird stuff happen it always seems to be in the connectors not making a good connection.

I actually came across another thread on here a few days ago where someone had an issue with their Bally and described the (near) exact symptoms I am experiencing. Turns out it was just a loose pin on a connector. I got my hopes way up that that would be resolve my problems. Alas, it did not.

And on that note, I am slowly the going through and replacing all (female) connectors and pins to the rectifier and SDB. So far though the rest of the old connectors seem pretty snug and as best as I can tell look relatively clean. There's not visible corrosion like in your image. That's not to say that there isn't any there though. But for the most part they are snug and clean-ish looking.

#14 88 days ago
Quoted from Tbever:

But for the most part they are snug and clean-ish looking.

You really can't see the corrosion by just looking at the plastic plugs. Again.... some pictures of your MPU board would be nice to see. It may not even be a solenoid board problem.

#15 88 days ago
Quoted from timab2000:

Again.... some pictures of your MPU board would be nice to see. It may not even be a solenoid board problem.

Here are a couple photos of the MPU.

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