I am attempting to revive a Lost World I picked up. I get general illumination but nothing else. The rectifier was been replaced with a rottendog board at some point previously. Im getting good readings away TP1, TP2, and TP3 but nothing at TP4 and TP5.

According to the repair guide I have been following on http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#battery TP4 should be supplying the general illumination... but that is working even though it is giving me a zero read.

Do I need to work backwards to the power supply or do more investigating on the rectifier? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Also, sorry for the duplicate image. I could not find how to delete it. Thanks!

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Ah, you are correct sir. I thought about that awhile after I walked away. It does read correctly when set to read AC.

I also pulled and checked the fuses and found that a 5A was bad. Ill set my sights on replacing it the connectors now. Thanks!

That is interesting. Any idea why they would have soldered it onto pin 9?

Would you reccomend just buying a connector pin rebuild kit? I see they have them on macrospecilaties.com for about $10. Thanks.

Thanks for the resource.

That looks nice. Is it your machine?

I have not. I recently moved and can't seem to find my soldering iron. I may just break down and buy a new one if I cant find it soon. In the meantime I'll get a connector kit. Thanks.

So I desoldered and repositioned the red wire to pin 8. No change in activity. I killed the power and removed J1 and J3. This time I am getting 155 on TP2 which looks like it should actually be getting 230. Also on TP4 I am getting 6.9 but it should be 7.3. Maybe thats just the innaccuracy of my cheap DMM. MY Next inclination is to find the schematics and look for any faults along that path. Do you have any suggestions?

I have not checked any of the test points on the solenoid driver board yet. There has not been any flashing from the LED on the MPU either.

Ah yeah, sorry I didn't specify. The LED is solid off.

Will do. I wish I could just leave work and tinker with this all day.

I did randomly notice there is a chip missing from the MPU (see photo).

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That is normal. Bally Lost World ROMs are U2 &amp; U6, which I can see are populated in your photo. No U1 needed.</blockquote

Good to know. Thanks.

This question probably has an obvious answer but is an ESR reading something that would be on a cheap-o harbor DMM? Or do I need to buy an actual ESR meter?

I will start trouble shooting the SBD in the next day or two. Thanks for the advice.

I will heed your advice and replace C23. You're probably correct that it needs replaced anyway.

Good point.

I have not replaced the connectors yet. They are on the way.

Cool, hopefully that turns out to be the case.

So I have finally got around to doing some trouble shooting on the driver board. I am getting 15.8 on TP5 and about 5 on TP1. Some of the wires going into the J3 connector look like they have been pretty hacked and the wire going into the 12th connector is literally just resting in place. I am considering getting a connector replacement kit for the driver board.

As far as the LED on the MPU goes, I have encountered two instances where I turn the power on and get a solid on. More often though, I have the initial flicker and then two flashes before it is solid off.

The MPU test flow chart indicates I should be focusing on the chips. I am not sure if I should really be concentrating on those or more so on the actual MPU board which has a decent amount of corrosion and some previous work done on it. I have included some photos of the J3 connector on the driver board and some areas of the MPU board that I thought looked suspect.

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Well it looks like I'll have my work cut out for me for awhile getting the board cleaned up and those components replaced. What are some thoughts on investing in a Molex crimper? I've been getting by using your typical pair of wire stripers/crimpers but it kind of seems like a pain. Maybe I just haven't gotten a good technique down. But if it saves a lot of time and hassle I may spring for the ~$20 pair.

Also, would anyone recommend a component supplier in particular? I've placed one order with Macro Specialities and was pleased with experience. I've also seen BigDaddy Enterprises pop up in searches. Price comparison between an MPU connector kit between the two has it $10 lower on BigDaddy compared to Macro Specialities.

It's been awilhe since I've posted. I've gathered some supplies and set up a workstation to do an overhaul/bullet proofing of the MPU. I'm curious to get others opinions. Should I replace the IC's on the MPU? I'm also wondering if I should replace resistors in the lower acid damaged areas of the MPU or just clean them? Thanks in advance. I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!

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Unfortunately it looks like that kit is out of stock. Is there any other supplier that provides that kit?

Do you know what the timeline for that may be? I signed up for an email notification when its back in stock.

The only reason I ask is that I'm pretty sure I came across the same product listing a month or so ago and it was out of stock than.

So it has been quite awhile since I have had time to work on the Lost World. I found a replacement, used, MPU to use while I tinker with repairing the acid damage on the original board.

While in test mode I am experiencing two issues: 1. Only the flippers "pull in" while cycling through the 11 solenoids. 2. No music but a bit of a hum from the speaker. I have primarily concentrated on the solenoid issue for now.

The playfield fuse was blown. Replaced and still no energising of the solenoids...but also no blown fuse thus far. Fuses on the rectifer were all good when pulled and tested for continuity.

All test points on the Rectifier are reading as expected. While looking under the playfield I can see someone has cut the wires to some of the solenoids (circled in red). The kicker solenoid in the cabinet jas also been entirely cut.

I came across another thread on here where an almost identical issue was caused by a loose connection at J3 on the rectifier board. Mine defintely look suspect. I made sure they were snug as possible but havent reterminated with a new connector.

Sorry for the duplicate image.

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