Check the fuses - pull them out and test. The TP4 is AC, since you have GI, I'm guessing you were trying to read DC volts instead of AC volts.

You also need to replace those connectors to the board. They have been hacked, and its likely you have a bad connection going to the rest of the machine.
Concentrate on the rectifier board first.

Do you have the schematics . J1 pin 9 . this pin was never used in this game , the new board you have has that extra pin at 9 ,
So move that red wire on pin 9 to pin 8 .
You should also re-pin the wires with the trufricon crimps and new sockets instead of soldering it straight to the pin ,
That should fix it , if not take f1 and f2 out and test them with a meter
Great Plains electronics carry everything you will need , including the crimpers
Part Number 08-50-0185 are the pins you should use on the GI's
Good luck

Start with connectors. Then test one thing at a time.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Powering_up_the_first_time

Untitled (resized).jpg

Here's a pic of the correct wiring for this game.

Lost World rectifier board (resized).png

Id say the old housing was burnt so they just soldered it on , Yes get the right connectors, as you can see it looks a lot neater ,
and did you change the wire from pin 9 to pin 8?? Because it wont work without doing this

I have come across this same thing before when people have put these new boards into games without realising J1 has a extra pin at 9 .
Because they didn't double check , Because its the end pin they must of thought that it was the correct pin, but it's not of course .
As you can see in Buffaloatx pic that pin 9 is not used .
When checking voltages the first time , Just have J2 fitted , then after you get all the correct voltages , plug j1 and j3 back in
Good luck

No, I found that in a post here. I thought when I copied it it would pull the link for that post with it. I'll see if I can find it again for reference.

Here it is, not sure if this will be needed, but something in here might be useful.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1978-lost-world-help

Those voltages are not that far off. What are you getting on the solenoid driver board? TP5 should be 11.9 VDC and TP1 should be 5 VDC.

When you turn it on do you get anything on the LED on the MPU?

The power supply supplies 11.9 volts to the driver board - the driver board sends 11.9 and 5 volts to the MPU.

Is the LED solid on or solid off?

Check the test points. Very important.
MPU TP1 = +4.9 to 5.2 vdc Also measure AC ripple, something well under 1V AC ripple is desirable.

That is normal. Bally Lost World ROMs are U2 & U6, which I can see are populated in your photo. No U1 needed.

Assuming that all your rectifier board voltages are reading correctly now it would appear that your Solenoid Driver is the culprit.
As stated above the SDB sends the 5 vdc to the MPU to boot it up. (along with some other things, but we can just focus on the +5vdc for now)
If you have an ESR meter check c23 (it may be failing or failed). I'd recommend replacing that cap anyway, especially if its an original...
you should also try this- "Check the wire terminals of the white-brown wire at pin 10 of J3 of the solenoid driver board and pin 17 of J3 of the rectifier board. Re-terminate if either are bad. - thanks to @quench for this tidbit" Set your meter to ohms and make sure you are getting zero ohms.
There is also a bullet proofing "hack" you can do to improve the ground path and get more reliable performance from your SDB (I did this on a friends Paragon and it worked wonders, brought the 5 vdc from 4.1 to 5.12 vdc)

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Upgrades

Not necessary to buy an ESR meter. Just measure that the DC voltage is in spec(4.9-5.1VDC) and the AC ripple voltage is minimal (less than 1 VAC at least, less than .5 VAC even better). Use can use just about any DMM for this.

If you have not replaced C23, it probably needs replaced anyway.

The Harbor Freight meter does not measure ESR.(Equivalent Series Resistance) You need a special meter for that. Its cheaper to replace C23 than buying a meter.

Have you replaced the connectors yet?

An ESR is not a necessity, but does come in handy from time to time. Mine was $30 on amazon. It will allow you to test a cap in circuit more reliably than DMM set to capacitance.

Once you get back to the game I'm betting you will find your 5 vdc is in the 4.2-4.4 range due to either a bad cap or poor ground, once you fix that i think the heavy lifting will be done on this game.

Bob-

I would definitely repin J3, and since there is battery damage, take a close look at the pins at MPU J4. I have had several instances where the corrosion crawled into the pins on J4.

I would also reflow the connections on the ground plane for those components - they all look like cold solder joints, and clean the board with some vinegar - it looks like the corrosion has not stopped.

This may not fix your immediate problem, (Repinning J3 might) but it will help make the whole platform more solid.

You need to remove all those affected components and replace them while addressing neutralizing the corrosion according to this. procedure:

2a. Before Turning the Game On: Removing the MPU Battery and Fixing Corrosion

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#battery

You'll never have a reliable game with those connectors. I always replace all headers and all connectors on every board.

You also need to remove all the corrosion on that MPU. Make sure you get it all cleaned because it will keep coming back. Check all the IC sockets to make sure they're clean - replace if they look suspect. Then install a remote battery or NVRAM.

If your LED is solid on then the MPU is not booting. Probably not getting 5 volts at TP5 because of the connectors. If you're getting 2 flashes the 5101 RAM is not working. Check the U8 socket - it's in the corrosion zone.

Todd at Big Daddy's a great guy - will have no problem buying from him.
If investing in a "Molex" crimper, you will be up over $100 for those. You can get several generics including the Waldoms in the $16 and up range. If you were replacing contacts by the thousands, I would seriously consider buying the pricey ones.

The Molex with the "locator" is an awesome tool - it holds the contacts for you, has built in wirestops and crimps both wire and insulation at same time... and is sized to properly crimp the 0.156" contacts correctly on the first try. Can often pick up used ones on ebay in the $20 range. Watch for HTR-2445A.
Just checked ebay - nothing worthwhile today but watch for them. The current listing for $51 is missing the locator so make sure they are complete when watching for them. Replacement locators are in the $20 range.

I've had very good success with these:

https://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle-Ratchet-Crimping-interchangeable/dp/B007JLN93S

I've done over 10 games with mine and they still work fine. Not as good as the Molex but at a fraction of the cost.

For pinball components I always go to GPE:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

Great prices, great selection, fast shipping, reasonable shipping cost, and all around nice guy. I've been buying from him for years and never had a problem.

You need to read Vids Guide for bulletproofing Ballys, on this board.
Lots of good tips in there.

Your F5 fuse clips in the fourth picture look pretty toasty!

You don't have to replace the socketed ICs IF there are no signs of any corrosion on the component legs, but you will have to replace all affected sockets. Cleaning the components externally does nothing. The parts, especially those in the reset section nearest the battery must be replaced. There is a process to remove the components, remove all corrosion, and replace the parts in this section of the repair guides. There is a list of parts and GPE also sells a kit for this intensive repair.

2a. Before Turning the Game On: Removing the MPU Battery and Fixing Corrosion.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#battery

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY35-BA-KIT

BALLY_BA_LG (resized).jpg

... GPE is waiting for a new order of sockets to arrive for the Bally35-BA-KIT.

Been on order since November, these are due 3rd week in Jan.

Kits are pretty much all sold out for now, I only get about one week per year to make kits. Can you guess which week?

Ed

I would suggest just selling them without those sockets. I just make my own sockets for those boards using the trim-able SIPP sockets... they are cheap. Anyone buying these kits to rebuild boards has the knowledge to build the sockets they need using SIPPs.

I actually did this for awhile. Surprisingly - got complaints from people that wanted DIP sockets instead of SIP sockets. Bit the bullet and ordered a new case of 0.4" x 22 pin sockets.

Maybe you could make DIP / SIP an option like the inclusion of a 5101

I would buy them but in all honesty, I can rebuild 5 or 6 boards with just two kits. I clean and then test all the components and generally only replace what has failed on these boards. For components that are more than $1, I generally buy those and keep a few in stock. The preassembled kits are a huge time saver but I only need to buy a couple every year or so.