Agree with the dowels/toothpicks. I've also recruited the boss the push against the back of the socket while I remove/replace the bulb.

Instead of using my fingers, I use a plunger rubber - push it onto the bulb, twist, and its out. It's also good when some of the bulbs are in places too tight for my sausage fingers to fit into.

what is that a spark plug boot?

On your recommendation, I just ordered one on Newark14.com for $2.60. I've tried similar tools before, but they weren't fitted quite right at the ends and consequently didn't work too well. Been using an old plunger tip for a while. Looking forward to trying this one!

2 words --- FREE SHIPPING

Bally/Williams:

"Bulb Extractor"
P/N: 23-6767

Sure. It's just some tubing, but it is precisely the perfect size and composition to make you throw that black one in the garbage. This one works on the really stubborn lamps.

lamp extractor (resized).jpg

Does the 23-6767 work for 55 globe style bulbs?

The nice thing about that black tubing is that it works on both sizes.

I use a piece of tubing on a wooden dowel myself. Works pretty well, and certainly beats cutting my hand up.

No, it doesn't fit 55s. But then, what games take type 55 lamps? I've been looking and can't find it.

Bingos - this is the bingo subforum.

Wish I'd know about these sooner. I'm defiantly going to order some for myself.
BTW here's the Newark link: http://www.newark.com/idec/or-55/removal-tool-lamp-tw-series/dp/31B2845

Ah, yes, so it is. Thanks for pointing that out.

Still, is there any application in flippers a 55 can be used? If I read the specs and remember them, the 55 is like twice the current of the 44? So I don't think it's a good idea to use them in place of the 44, looking for confirmation.

IIRC, 55 has the same current as a 44. Some early flipper games might also use 55s.

I replace 55s with 47s typically. Depends on the game.

On red letter games, 55s are required as part of the red letter circuit.

There are also other bulbs with a similar profile like 1464s, which are 17V.

for the flat lamp sockets, usually if you bend the barbs a bit it helps...especially if you bend them so they both angled in or both out so you get a wedging affect. You go into the same holes, but you want the tips to bite into fresh wood below the surface.

probably the best lamp tool I've used is something like the CTA Tools 1012 ($13 or so)....kinda like pliers with rubber coated/cupped ends. The main advantages over the or-55 tool are: it's easier to clean off when the lamps are dusty/oily, it's faster to use, and it works for all the lamp sizes.

the or-55 works pretty well tho, especially if the lamps are clean.

102 (resized).jpg

Does anyone know the name or part number of these lamp sockets? I just encountered them in a Bow and Arrow backbox?

the flat sockets were A-1653-1. They disappeared from the bally parts books around 1980.

the usual issue is clearance ... most sockets won't work well because the stick up too far.

if you have to replace a flat socket and have no donor machine to scrounge from (or know someone with a bingo parts head), most people use E-120-176 ... they can be stapled down or use small screws. The lamp may poke out of the wood a little more with them tho.

if your socket is still ok or maybe a barb is broken off, the operator fix was either a screw to hold down the socket edge or staple the wires down as close to the socket as possible. If you have room around the socket, you can get creative strapping the socket down.