Laguna Beach
Bally, 1960It was a trick to get all the lamp out from the head. No reinstalling after painting the light board. The Bally lamp sockets on this machine seem to be only pushed in, being held in place by a tab stuck into the wood. Most sockets held well. Other sockets don't stay affixed to the back of the light board.
What can I do to resecure these trouble sockets so that incerting and extracting the lamps isn't a pain in the fingers? Nails, screws,staples...or just a bigger hammer?
I used a wood dowel to lightly hammer the teeth back in 
I also used a toothpick(s) to fill in the hole, if, the hole was to big/worn out!!
Also, if you have enough wire play, you can redo the socket in a different orientation!
Terry K
Agree with the dowels/toothpicks. I've also recruited the boss the push against the back of the socket while I remove/replace the bulb.
Instead of using my fingers, I use a plunger rubber - push it onto the bulb, twist, and its out. It's also good when some of the bulbs are in places too tight for my sausage fingers to fit into.
Quoted from Terry1:The "tool" is a " OR-55 "
If you google the OR-55 you will find it.
Usually around the $3 - $5 range!
Is made with very soft rubber on the ends, grabs the
bulb(s) real nice.
The best removal tool I have ever used!!!!
Terry K
On your recommendation, I just ordered one on Newark14.com for $2.60. I've tried similar tools before, but they weren't fitted quite right at the ends and consequently didn't work too well. Been using an old plunger tip for a while. Looking forward to trying this one!
Ryan, you will not be disappointed
I have , in my time, changed hundreds of bulbs in various pieces of
equipment, mostly two-way radio battery chargers and other related equipment.
I have used various tools.
This tool, for the lamps used in our bingo's, is GREAT!!!
When you get it, if you don't mind, let me and the "others" know
what you think of it.
Terry K
...sometimes we get caught re-inventing the wheel.
I ordered an OR-55. When it arrived I tested it against my home made lamp tool. What I found was what Terry1 said was right. The OR-55 did "grab" the lamps better. The home made tool require warming to make it more grabby. I am sold.
I also need to remember that I am not the first to go down this road....thank all for you patience and help.
Does the 23-6767 work for 55 globe style bulbs?
The nice thing about that black tubing is that it works on both sizes.
I use a piece of tubing on a wooden dowel myself. Works pretty well, and certainly beats cutting my hand up.
Quoted from bingopodcast:Does the 23-6767 work for 55 globe style bulbs?
The nice thing about that black tubing is that it works on both sizes.
I use a piece of tubing on a wooden dowel myself. Works pretty well, and certainly beats cutting my hand up.
No, it doesn't fit 55s. But then, what games take type 55 lamps? I've been looking and can't find it.
Quoted from Terry1:The "tool" is a " OR-55 "
If you google the OR-55 you will find it.
Usually around the $3 - $5 range!
Is made with very soft rubber on the ends, grabs the
bulb(s) real nice.
The best removal tool I have ever used!!!!
Terry K
Quoted from RyanClaytor:On your recommendation, I just ordered one on Newark14.com for $2.60. I've tried similar tools before, but they weren't fitted quite right at the ends and consequently didn't work too well. Been using an old plunger tip for a while. Looking forward to trying this one!
Wish I'd know about these sooner. I'm defiantly going to order some for myself.
BTW here's the Newark link: http://www.newark.com/idec/or-55/removal-tool-lamp-tw-series/dp/31B2845
Quoted from bingopodcast:Bingos - this is the bingo subforum.
Ah, yes, so it is. Thanks for pointing that out.
Still, is there any application in flippers a 55 can be used? If I read the specs and remember them, the 55 is like twice the current of the 44? So I don't think it's a good idea to use them in place of the 44, looking for confirmation.
IIRC, 55 has the same current as a 44. Some early flipper games might also use 55s.
I replace 55s with 47s typically. Depends on the game.
On red letter games, 55s are required as part of the red letter circuit.
There are also other bulbs with a similar profile like 1464s, which are 17V.
for the flat lamp sockets, usually if you bend the barbs a bit it helps...especially if you bend them so they both angled in or both out so you get a wedging affect. You go into the same holes, but you want the tips to bite into fresh wood below the surface.
probably the best lamp tool I've used is something like the CTA Tools 1012 ($13 or so)....kinda like pliers with rubber coated/cupped ends. The main advantages over the or-55 tool are: it's easier to clean off when the lamps are dusty/oily, it's faster to use, and it works for all the lamp sizes.
the or-55 works pretty well tho, especially if the lamps are clean.
the flat sockets were A-1653-1. They disappeared from the bally parts books around 1980.
the usual issue is clearance ... most sockets won't work well because the stick up too far.
if you have to replace a flat socket and have no donor machine to scrounge from (or know someone with a bingo parts head), most people use E-120-176 ... they can be stapled down or use small screws. The lamp may poke out of the wood a little more with them tho.
if your socket is still ok or maybe a barb is broken off, the operator fix was either a screw to hold down the socket edge or staple the wires down as close to the socket as possible. If you have room around the socket, you can get creative strapping the socket down.
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Louisville, KY
Moncton, NB
