(Topic ID: 264983)

Bally lamp board LEDs


By Pintopia

10 days ago



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  • 25 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by FatPanda
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#1 10 days ago

Hi all I have a Bally Playboy and Mata Hari which I have purchased LEDs for and installed. I also have installed purchased and installed the LED conversation boards for the lamp driver board ( they piggyback J1,J2,J3.

The issue I have is that on the Playboy I have one insert that continues to flicker and on the Mata Hari I have three inserts that flicker. The flicker is as if the piggyback board is not there. Both games are related to J1. I swapped out the J1 with one from my fully working Night Rider same result same inserts flicker. Also swapped out the LEDs with no change still flickering.

These inserts worked fine with the incandescent bulbs.

Any ideas on what is going on here?

Don

#2 10 days ago
Quoted from Pintopia:

I also have installed purchased and installed the LED conversation boards for the lamp driver board ( they piggyback J1,J2,J3.

Your talking about these piggy back boards?

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#3 10 days ago

Yes those are the ones... purchased from Comet pinball...

#4 10 days ago

sndchaser shows to be the storefront owner, perhaps they will chime in.

I've used a different brand in the past so I won't be any help.

frunch and grumpy are pretty good with trouble shooting also.

#5 10 days ago

Do you have a resistor handy to solder on the lamp? Or you could at least hold it on there during a test to see if it eliminates it.

#6 10 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Do you have a resistor handy to solder on the lamp? Or you could at least hold it on there during a test to see if it eliminates it.

Second this. I've had to add resistors to a few lamps here and there, even with those boards. That was after verifying all SCRs are good on the LDB. Meteor needed 8 resistors and Strikes and Spares only a single lamp still flickered after installing the boards. I use the Seigecraft product. Harlem and Magic were fine, no stragglers that flickered.

#7 10 days ago

I've also had to add resistors as well when using the LED flicker boards. Some lamps just don't care. I've gone with 100% resistors in my games as well. I got to spend some mindless work soldering resistors to lamp sockets. It was quite therapeutic actually. Could use some of that now.

#8 10 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Could use some of that now.

Uff...not a fun job! Even worse if you're doing Sterns with the stupid metal lamp..."boards" (whatever those vile things are)

#9 10 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Uff...not a fun job! Even worse if you're doing Sterns with the stupid metal lamp..."boards" (whatever those vile things are)

Eh, it's not too bad. I went through my Flash Gordon because a tape roll with 100 resistors is only a couple dollars shipped and I'm cheap

I'm also too cheap to replace flaky lamp sockets before first trying to solder the wire directly to the nub lol. Point being, 2 or 3 sockets isn't bad when you've done 50 lamps.

#10 10 days ago

If it's the ones from Comet, they are the ones that I've been making for a few years now. But the advice is the same, since they're all based on my design anyway with very little variation.

Sometimes it's the SCR on the lamp driver that's flaky, happens from time to time if it's just one or two lamps. Usually replacing the SCR will cure it.

With the Mata-Hari, where it's three of them, take a close peek to make sure you aren't off by a pin in one direction or the other.

-Hans

#11 10 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

Second this. I've had to add resistors to a few lamps here and there, even with those boards. That was after verifying all SCRs are good on the LDB. Meteor needed 8 resistors and Strikes and Spares only a single lamp still flickered after installing the boards. I use the Seigecraft product. Harlem and Magic were fine, no stragglers that flickered.

There's something ODD about Meteor, I don't know what, but I'd venture it was your rocket inserts? They seem to be a common issue but I don't know what causes that area to have issues.

-Hans

#12 10 days ago

Thanks all for the reply’s both games have been fully restored including new lamp sockets. I have also verified all boards are installed properly. What value resistor should I use? I don’t mind adding a few resistors...

#13 10 days ago

One more question what SCR should I use if needed as the the ones used are obsolete correct...

#14 10 days ago

I use a 470 ohm resistor, but there is a range posted somewhere I think. Resistors are cheap on Ebay.

This SCR will work.
https://www.pinballlife.com/2n5064-scr.html

#15 10 days ago

If you buy one, buy a dozen, common among many machines.

#16 10 days ago

Thanks I have a large stock of electronic components but no MCRs I’ll pick some up!

#17 10 days ago

I'm strongly considering moving to a lower value resistor again, which I've already done once before. I started with 1K, then moved to 750 ohm. But the more people are converting Bally/Stern machines, the more evidence I see that 470 may be a better choice. So once I run out of 750's I think I'll move tothe 470's as well.

Always updating these things to try and make them better.

-Hans

#18 10 days ago

Well I added a 470 ohm and all it did was dim the insert still flickering

#19 10 days ago

Hmm...added it from lamp base to tit/nipple/leg?

#20 10 days ago

No in series nipple to the wire.

#21 10 days ago

Ah nipple to base to limit or slow the current...

#22 10 days ago

Lamps not pulling enough current. MPU200 games update the lamps closing to zero volts than bally does so more likely to show flickering.

Quoted from Pintopia:

No in series nipple to the wire.

Go across the lamp not in series. resistor adds load so the SCR stays turned on.

#23 10 days ago

Will do thanks!

#24 10 days ago

Problem solved no flickering used a 470 ohm resistor from base to nipple lead.

Thank you!

#25 9 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

tit/nipple/leg?

We still talking about lamp sockets here?

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