(Topic ID: 281396)

Bally KISS Restoration

By WeatherbyMAG

3 years ago


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  • 57 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 11 Pinsiders

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    There are 57 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 3 years ago

    Started on this KISS for a fellow Pinsider little while back, figured I'd document the resto so he can watch as progress continues & pics might be helpful to others working on a KISS in the future.

    This machine was actually in pretty good condition.... Cab not bad, PF pretty good etc. Had a few minor electrical issues, broken fuse holder on bottom of PF, someone had installed a new rectifier & wired it incorrectly & had a blown Bridge rec etc. Rubbers, bulbs etc needed a general shop job.... But overall, if those minor issues would have been fixed I'd have said this was a solid players machine.

    Now it's getting full on Resto with CPR PF swap.

    Cab was pretty solid.... Minor wood repairs complete, along with straightening & sharpening all the corners/edges. Plan on doing final Primer coat on cab in next day or two now that my new paint booth is operational.

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    #2 3 years ago

    PF was really not bad for it's age, but once you looked close, there was a lot of planking/cracking that would be very labor intensive to fix.

    Got PF mostly stripped, most mechs in pretty good shape. Nice to work with something that is not a complete turd like normal when restoring these machines.

    The CPR the owner was able to locate for it, has about the thinnest clear I have seen on a CPR. So I'm going to shoot my own clear on it to level it a bit better & give it a much deeper appearance.

    That's where I'm at with it. Got a bit bogged down for last few weeks building this paint booth, so now I can begin to get back on cranking out the pin work.

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    #3 3 years ago

    Again, the CPR is'nt horrible, but I can make it look like it has a sheet of glass on it, so might as well do it. Plan on clearing this PF along with final 2 coats of clear on a new CPR Flash Gordon here this weekend.

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    #4 3 years ago

    Very cool. I have a CPR playfield I intend on swapping into my KISS. Nice to see all this documented. Thanks.

    #5 3 years ago

    I hope somebody recycles that playfield into another machine. It definitely should live on in a machine or on display. Is it for sale?

    #6 3 years ago

    The owner will be reading this thread.... he can PM you if he is interested in selling. I have no idea what he plans to do with it.

    #7 3 years ago
    Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

    Cab was pretty solid.... Minor wood repairs complete

    That cabinet actually looked pretty good to start except for the high fade on the front.

    #8 3 years ago

    PF Topside fully stripped

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    1 week later
    #9 3 years ago

    Got some of the mechs rebuilt over the weekend.

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    #10 3 years ago

    Got cab shot in primer. Edges/corners looking pretty sharp...... few minor issues here & there that still need addressed, but overall looking fairly good.

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    #11 3 years ago

    yes, the cab looks amazing. I can't wait to see what it looks like after its stenciled. Its always good to see the process for those of us that aren't as skilled. Thanks for sharing.

    #12 3 years ago

    Kiss got the CPR leveled & couple coats of clear on turkey day. I'll sand it tonight & see what it looks like, but I anticipate doing another couple coats.

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    #13 3 years ago

    Kiss PF has been cut & buffed. No more CPR "planking".... looks like a sheet of glass. Need to clean all the holes out etc & she's ready to hit the rotisserie. Could'nt take it outside for better pics in natural light, because we been having rainy/snowy weather for 2 days straight.

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    #14 3 years ago

    Got the holes etc cleaned out on KISS & re-painted the underside grey. She's ready for the rotisserie.

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    #15 3 years ago

    While I was doing KISS PF, I cleared a CPR Flash Gordon for a friend. This was actually a CPR Digital reprint on a factory Bally PF. Used to call it a re-screen, guess now it's re-print. I sanded all the sides as well & repainted the bottom side. Owner had the red star rollover inserts installed while it was up at CPR for printing.

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    #16 3 years ago

    Starting to populate PF...

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    #17 3 years ago

    Looks great! When i did mine, i did the ground braid first, it was much easier than trying to go around all the mechs. Looks good either way!

    #18 3 years ago

    I normally would do all the braid & sockets first as well, but I'm waiting on the new lamp sockets for the feature lights from Marco. So, I'm doing what I can first. I'm actually rerouting some of the braid differently than Bally did, some of their routing decisions don't make sense to me, so I will route it just a bit "cleaner" in certain areas.

    #19 3 years ago

    Populating is coming along......

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    #20 3 years ago
    Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

    I normally would do all the braid & sockets first as well, but I'm waiting on the new lamp sockets for the feature lights from Marco. So, I'm doing what I can first. I'm actually rerouting some of the braid differently than Bally did, some of their routing decisions don't make sense to me, so I will route it just a bit "cleaner" in certain areas.

    What is your method of cleaning all the mechanisms?

    #21 3 years ago

    Depends on the mech, but I will say my buffing wheel is one of my favorite tools....I also wire wheel a lot of stuff with a fine wheel.

    Like the pop bumper mechs & slingshot mechs, I clean in a chemical dip first, then buff.

    All the standup target mounts got polished on buffing wheel after a light cleanup with wire wheel.

    Rollovers, get taken apart, the wire gets polished & the actual plate gets wire wheeled or sometimes bead blasted, depending on what condition they are in. Then re-assembled.

    Flipper plates get polished on buffing wheel as well.

    I would like to get into electro plating stuff, but have not gone down that road yet.

    1 week later
    #22 3 years ago

    PF is coming along.... slowly but surely.

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    #23 3 years ago

    Little slower on PF work because of this........

    Cab is now white & ready for stencil work.

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    #24 3 years ago

    Orange......

    Took these quick before work this morning & I think my cell phone was cold & there was haze on my phone lense or something. Pics are not sharp as they usually are.

    I shot one side Black this morning, so I'll take some more pics tonight when I get home.

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    #25 3 years ago

    Are u still waiting 30 minutes before u remove the stencils?

    #26 3 years ago

    It's usually not even 30 minutes. I'm usually around 78-82 degrees at around 20 percent humidity (electric heated paint booth) when I paint & I'd say around 15-20 minutes normally. I stick my finger in paint that is on the stencil close to the art & see how tacky it "feels" & I just have a feel for when it is right time to pull, or to leave go a bit longer. I definitely don't pull dry, it usually feathers the edges.

    Couple minor touch ups to do on this side but overall quite nice. Will shoot the other side this afternoon & more than likely clear this weekend & then she's ready for re-assembly.

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    #27 3 years ago

    Gotcha. Thanks for the info. Waiting on Mata Hari stencils that Jeff sent 2 weeks ago. USPS seems to like them more than me. Cab and back box are ready for stencils. That KISS is looking awesome. Great work.

    #28 3 years ago

    Wow, that cab is really looking sharp! The orange really makes things pop.

    #29 3 years ago

    Nice That is going to be an awesome game.

    #30 3 years ago
    Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

    more than likely clear this weekend & then she's ready for re-assembly.

    Ryan, what grit do u sand with before u clear?

    #31 3 years ago
    Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

    It's usually not even 30 minutes. I'm usually around 78-82 degrees at around 20 percent humidity (electric heated paint booth) when I paint & I'd say around 15-20 minutes normally. I stick my finger in paint that is on the stencil close to the art & see how tacky it "feels" & I just have a feel for when it is right time to pull, or to leave go a bit longer. I definitely don't pull dry, it usually feathers the edges.
    Couple minor touch ups to do on this side but overall quite nice. Will shoot the other side this afternoon & more than likely clear this weekend & then she's ready for re-assembly.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Curious to know what you used for paint. Colors/brand etc. Thanks

    #32 3 years ago

    To knock edges etc down 1000 or 1500 grit.

    Paint is custom mixed, but it's pretty basic for this game.... Black & white & the orange has been discussed in other KISS threads. Very close to Allis Chalmers tractor orange. Other people have mentioned Chevy orange engine paint, I tend to agree both those are real close. The AC might be hair lighter than original. I've actually owned several Orange cars (old Muscle cars) over the years & have painted them a variety of shades of orange.

    I took this pic up close to ty to get a better pic of the shade this is. My cell phone from a distance makes it look way too dark, or I should say darker than it looks in person.

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    #33 3 years ago

    Cab got cleared over the Holliday weekend.

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    #34 3 years ago

    Started populating cab & running new ground braid etc. Almost have wiring harness cleaned up enough to re-install, maybe tomorrow night.

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    #35 3 years ago

    Little closer here & there on the PF. Installed all new diodes on the switches, new fuse holder, rebuilt the ball saver mech etc. Still have to make new link for the left sling mech, & finish polishing the last drop target assy along with rebuilding the drop target mech. Will begin wiring harness detailing this week in preparation of installing it as well.

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    #36 3 years ago

    What did you use to clear the cab - full 2PAC or rattle can? Looks great....

    #37 3 years ago

    Martin Senour 2 part auto clear.

    #38 3 years ago

    Looking great!!

    #39 3 years ago

    Working on the cab wiring......

    I put polyurethane on the tilt board.... These were left natural wood & unpainted from Bally, & I think it helps break up the cab by not painting it white. I sand them down with 220 to make them look nicer. One I did in Evel Knievel I left natural, figured this time I'd try some Poly. I really like how it turned out. You can see the grain of the wood really nice, kind of like a high end cleared walnut etc hardwood gunstock. Woodgrain can look cool in the right application.

    Wiring harness all cleaned, all new zip ties, re-pinned the connectors etc.

    Added a few extra wire looms to clean stuff up just little better than Bally did it. I'm not a Stickler for 100% originality, I just like to make them look good, but not deviate a ton from original.

    Will try to finish up the tilt board stuff tonight.

    New speaker & few other parts are on their way from Marco.

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    #40 3 years ago

    Looking amazing

    #41 3 years ago
    Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

    I normally would do all the braid & sockets first as well, but I'm waiting on the new lamp sockets for the feature lights from Marco.

    You ever consider replacing sockets with lamp boards or you like to keep it original? Looks great!

    #42 3 years ago

    I like bayonet sockets...

    Although if an aftermarket lamp board for the main center sockets was avail right now I'd think long & hard about installing that. Only one I know of is sold out right now. So I will be cleaning up the original lamp holder the best I can & installing possibly today.

    I'll have some more pics of this weekends progress tomorrow when I'm back at work.

    #43 3 years ago

    I almost wish Mystic had a similar lamp board like Kiss does, but of course it's a PITA if there are bum sockets on it, farting around with repairing those. It took me a while to do the new sockets on my PF swap for it, lots of careful rerouting of the wiring on the new PF.

    As an experiment I'm using solder tabs instead of soldering directly to the lamp sockets for the feed wires, so I'll see how that goes over time. I suspect there might end up being dodgy connections over the long haul but time will tell. Not sure yet if I'm going to go with all LED lighting or put incandescents back in.

    #44 3 years ago

    Cleaned up the lamp holder the best I could. Hopefully all sockets/lamps work ok.

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    #45 3 years ago

    PF metal polished & installed, new bumper caps, lane guides etc.

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    #46 3 years ago

    Inside of cabinet, just about done...... Tilt board all polished up & re-wired, new speaker etc. New stainless coin door trim & bolts, cab protectors, freshened up the lockdown bar receiver etc.

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    #47 3 years ago

    PF wiring harness....... all 10 feet of her. Getting cleaned & new zip ties, connectors etc.

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    1 week later
    #48 3 years ago

    Got about 1/2 the PF wiring installed over the weekend. Eats up the hours (And the solder)

    Oh & rebuilt the drop target mech & polished it.

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    1 week later
    #49 3 years ago

    Got the backbox sanded & began repairs on it.... it's not in bas shape, so should be ready for Primer here in a few days.

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    1 week later
    #50 3 years ago

    Had to repair display board where chunk was broken off...... of course being particle board, it broke off it 30 pieces. So.... I built a new corner out of fiberglass resin.

    Repair looks better than new.

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