(Topic ID: 200214)

Bally Kiss (P/S hook-up issue)

By CriminalMinded

6 years ago


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  • 18 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Grefla
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#1 6 years ago

Hi,
I am not a regular here but I hoping to get a hand. I am helping out a friend with a pinball game, a Bally KISS. He received it with the power supply Molex connectors very badly burnt on J1, literally falling apart brittle and I cannot find the wire color codes for this specific game.
I researched this for some time and although I did find sets of schematics and several pictures showing the color codes for J1 for other Bally KISS PB (see attached) they are not what we have here.
As you can see in the attachments, the wiring diagram shows 7 wires and the pic of the connector shows 6 wires and although we have 7 wires, the colors do not match either example.

The wire colors that are present for J1 in this game are:RED/ORANGE/BROWN/WHITE/GREEN/GREEN/GREEN

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am not well versed in the EM field.

I had originally posted this in the incorrect section:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-kiss-ps-hook-up-issue#post-4016183

I also found out the model #of the Assembly which is: AS-2877-1

Thanks in advance
Jeff

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#2 6 years ago

some one replaced wires in your harness.i looked at the j3 plug pins 1 and 2 are blue and are to be green and white not .so id look back in the harness.i bet j1 has been messed with to.the wiring that you found pictured is right and i believe pin one and 2 are for g i .well good luck p.s ipda has schematics http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=kiss&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#1386

#3 6 years ago

OK, I cut back into the harness and found out that what I had though was 3 green are actually 1 green and 2 blue, so now I am almost there.

Those wires at J3 I had to cut in as the original wires were so burnt, I had to go back like 3 inches and needed to make that up before replacing the pin. The blue was the only color wire I had on hand, but thank you for noticing that.

Since the header only has 8 positions rather than 9, should I just twist the 2 blue wires together and terminate then at J1-7?

Thanks again for the assistance.
Jeff

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#4 6 years ago

That is not the right rectifier board. Kiss typically used a -49 rectifier board with a beefier feature lamp rectifier.

You are going to be missing a feature lamp bus header pin at j1 on that board is the main difference. You can double crimp the extra feature lamp bus wire on the other feature lamp pin... but it will probably be stressed out and burn again.

I would consider finding the power board with a bigger feature lamp bridge rectifier and 9pin j1 plug for Kiss. If you planned on LEDs for feature lamps it would take some stress off of the bridge and connectors. 47 bulbs too.

#5 6 years ago

Thank you for that information, that makes sense especially how the header only has 8 positions and was fried as it was.

So the Feature Lamp Bus = Playfield Switched Lamp Bus (J1-7 and J1-9)?

What it I fabricated an off board rectifier heat sink assembly using a GBPC3506 and wired that into position, I would then not connect the J1-7 and J1-9 using the in-line Molex connector but drill into the rectifier PCB and bring out 2 - 18ga. wires into a free hanging Molex .093" pin and socket power connector back to the harness?

All I would need is a mounting area for the heatsink.....

Sounds do-able?

J1 (resized).JPGJ1 (resized).JPG
Replace BR (resized).JPGReplace BR (resized).JPG

Assuming the transformer can handle it..........

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I will also replace F4.... that was my fault.......

#6 6 years ago

Glad you found the blue wires, your other option is to treat it to a nice new one - these are described as compatible -18 and -49 for KISS

https://ksarcade.net/new-rectifier-board-for-bally-and-stern-games.html

#7 6 years ago

Wow, that would look very nice in the game (!) and would take care of any future issues as well..........
I think that is the route I am going to take.
Thank you for the help, (and that link), it is much appreciated.
I'll post the results once completed.
Jeff

#8 6 years ago

GBPC3506 is a good part. I use ones made by Fairchild. With a decent heatsink you will solve the bridge rectifier issue, but not the connector.

In future spa, the extra feature lamp bus pin was for the dancing lights in the head. I think KISS has a similar feature, so I imagine it is likely the same. So that means not too many lamps to worry about. Probably still want 47 bulbs if you sticking to incadescent. make nice solid crimps with trfurcon contacts. Your high current fuse clip for the GI leaks pretty beat too. Kinda funny the high current fuse clips are the ones that tarnish out faster and become high resistance fuse clips. Eventually the tarnish eats all the way through and the clip breaks or gets really hot and the board burns.

3 weeks later
#9 6 years ago

Very happy to be able to report that the Kiss game "is ALIVE!!"
I purchased and installed the replacement rectifier PCB.
I also wired the replacement Molex connector with Trifurcon pins using the newly found blue (green looking) wires.
Applied power and BAM! Good to go......
Thanks to everyone that lent a hand, very much appreciated and thank you for your time.
Jeff

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4 years later
#10 2 years ago

This is such a useful thread. I am working on a Bally kiss and it has the wrong transformer and rectifier in it.

There are only 8 pins on J1.

I’d like to put a new rectifier board in and repin a 9 connector J1. I can’t find the wire that belonged in pin 9.

There has been some significant work done on it in the past. All wires to J1 appear to be new. And they are connected in odd places under the pf (see the red wire in the second picture - there are already red wires on that bare wire, I’m going to have to trace the old original ones back to try and work out what’s going on)

I have traced pin 7 (blue) down to the playfield.

Can anyone tell me where the blue that belongs to pin 9 terminates. I can try and trace it backwards and see where it has been tied in ( so that I can put it onto pin 9 on the new board).

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#11 2 years ago
Quoted from Grefla:

Can anyone tell me where the blue that belongs to pin 9 terminates.

While not strictly showing where on the playfield the A2J1-9 wire goes, this link shows it is essentially a double up of A2J1-7 to the playfield to provide extra current delivery capacity.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-kiss-schematic-errors-omissions

On your last picture it shows a factory blue wire cut from the upper "K" lane lamp base. There is also another single factory blue wire going to the upper last "S" lane lamp base.
Inspect the rest of the playfield feature lamp bases to see if any other factory blue bus wires have been cut.

#12 2 years ago

Im doing a scratch build on a wiring harness for Kiss if it helps anyone out.

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from rushfan:

Im doing a scratch build on a wiring harness for Kiss if it helps anyone out.

Thanks.

I’ve just watched your head rebuild videos and your playfield scratch build video. They are great. Thanks for posting.

Unfortunately I still can’t quite work out from the video where the blue from J1pin9 on the rectifier board terminates on the playfield.

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Inspect the rest of the playfield feature lamp bases to see if any other factory blue bus wires have been cut.

Thanks @quench. I’ve taken a short video. I’ll try to upload it.

cant see any other wires cut, but I'm not sure where the wire from pin 9 would connect to the pf. @rushfan, where in your build did you connect the 2 feeds?

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from Grefla:

Thanks Quench. I’ve taken a short video. I’ll try to upload it.

cant see any other wires cut, but I'm not sure where the wire from pin 9 would connect to the pf. rushfan, where in your build did you connect the 2 feeds?

It sounds like someones hooked up the second feature lamp playfield wire to the feature lamp power wire on the headbox lamp/display door insert. If this is what you're saying, that wire is hooked up wrong.

The feature lamp power wire on the headbox lamp/display door insert gets feature lamp power from the rectifier board at J3 pin 6. This wire powers 28 lamps headbox lamps.

Half the playfield feature lamps are on the centre lamp board, the other half are scattered around the playfield.
I would run either blue wire direct to the centre lamp board and the other blue wire to the scattered lamps braid starting at the top KISS lane lamp like you have now. From vague pictures I've seen the feature lamp power bus is connected together at all playfield lamps (i.e. they aren't split in two separate circuits for each blue wire.)

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

the feature lamp power bus is connected together at all playfield lamps (i.e. they aren't split in two separate circuits for each blue wire.)

Ah ok, so it’s basically 2 wires from the rectifier board onto all of the playfield controlled lamps. I assumed it would be 2 separate circuits, but if not that’s an easy fix.

The headbox controlled lamp bus does come from J3 pin 6. I’ve snapped a pic of j3.

There is another one that comes back up from the playfield and into a square connector (like the coin door but smaller) that connects to the insert. I’m not sure why. I’ll grab a picture when I’m with the machine tomorrow, but I have the table from the schematic below.

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#17 2 years ago

Grefla wrote: "Can anyone tell me where the blue that belongs to pin 9 terminates. I can try and trace it backwards and see where it has been tied in ( so that I can put it onto pin 9 on the new board)."

In the picture below, the red circle is the wire from J1 pin 7, and the blue circle is from J1 pin 9. They are electrically connected together at this point and then daisy chain to the other feature lamps on the playfield.

I have one Kiss playfield where the blue wires are the exact same color of blue and another like yours where J1-9 is a slightly different shade of blue.

Kiss _J1_7_9_pf_connections (resized).JPGKiss _J1_7_9_pf_connections (resized).JPG
#18 2 years ago

Thanks @johnnybee. I’d began to assume that’s what the situation was, but great to have the confirmation.

Cheers.

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