Quoted from BigAl56:That's the wrong rectifier board for kiss. Kiss uses a much larger board. Someone replaced the original board and hacked in the extra wires.
Here is what i recommend. Order a new rectifier board compatible for KISS. The connectors look OK but if there is burning order a rectifier board connecter kit while you are at it. Once you replace the rectifier board, unplug all the other boards and test the voltages on the RB to see if they are close to spec. Then connect the PS board (upper right) and check the voltages there. Once both the RB and PS are reading close to spec, you can connect the MPU and see if you get LED flashes.
So I got my multi-meter and did tests on the test points, and they all tested as they should (per this website - http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/bly_volts.php). Which test point would be relevant to the MPU board, TP3 (5v regulator supply voltage)? If this is testing ok (which it is), would it point to a bad MPU board (and the new one should work)?
In other news (which clearly needs attention), TP3 has what should be J3 pin 8 (I can see where the connector is just burned out/broken so the wire was pulled out) soldered directly to it. What is Rectifier board, J3, Pin 8 (I can't follow the schematics in the manual, a little over my skis there)? Seems like whatever this goes to is skipping the fuse (obviously not good!)? Also, J1 (a 9-pin block) has a 10-pin connector connected to it, ugh. Pin 10 (an aqua colored wire) is hanging over the edge, but it's been working like this, so wonder what have I been missing?
I have a new MPU and rectifier board coming in the next few days. Watched a video on replacing the rectifier board, doesn't look to terrible (unless all the E connection points don't match). Enjoying learning about this. My conclusion is that even though my rectifier board is highly rigged, the new MPU board should fix the issue. That said (even if correct), I'm going to tackle the rectifier board as it's clearly not setup as designed!