I powered all my machines on and looked back to see my old Bally KISS looking like this. GI (and PinStadiums) lit up, lights behind back glass barely lit, and nothing on the scoreboard. No sound at boot, no ball in the shooter lane. Coin credits switches dead. Picture attached.

I don’t really have any experience with these older machines, but just assuming I have a dead board somewhere. Appreciate any suggestions on where I might start.

Sort of been looking for a reason to move it out, zero room for GnR which who knows when is coming, but now I need to fix first.

Thanks much!

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Well this is a bit embarrassing. How do I open the backglass on this old machine? Manual says it swings open, my lock was pretty mangled with no hope I had the key, started to drill it out, more mangled but can still activate with a flathead. But I’m not sure where it actually opens. Take a look at the picture, it looks like where I think it should open has been painted over, but could be mistaken.

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perfect, I'm familiar with that! will give it a shot. That was it, but wow that backglass is heavy (compared to new games). Nothing to grip either, had to pry from the bottom. I'm in, thank you!

Not one LED in the back box (seems pretty dead in here). Looks like one of the boards (lower left) is newer. Fuses mounted on the right above the power all check out. Bad MPU or bad power supply maybe?

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I would sell this pin (once I repair it!). It was my first pin as an adult, bought it for as much a prop in a game room as to play, but quickly got bit by the bug and now own 9 with one on the way, and out of room!!! Love the nostalgia of this machine, but enjoy the gameplay of newer pins with ramps, toys, etc.

Cabinet is a bit beat up, playfield aged as one might expect. Worked fine since I bought it 3-4 years ago until just now.

Negative on the MPU board LED. It doesn’t light at all, so either it’s bad or it’s not getting the right power. I ordered a replacement MPU (the Alltek that allows free play), hopefully that’s it.

On the fuses I just checked continuity from one side to the other, and got tone.

Rectifier board test - I’m not familiar. Is there a link or could you let me know how?

Thank you!!

So I got my multi-meter and did tests on the test points, and they all tested as they should (per this website - http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/bly_volts.php). Which test point would be relevant to the MPU board, TP3 (5v regulator supply voltage)? If this is testing ok (which it is), would it point to a bad MPU board (and the new one should work)?

In other news (which clearly needs attention), TP3 has what should be J3 pin 8 (I can see where the connector is just burned out/broken so the wire was pulled out) soldered directly to it. What is Rectifier board, J3, Pin 8 (I can't follow the schematics in the manual, a little over my skis there)? Seems like whatever this goes to is skipping the fuse (obviously not good!)? Also, J1 (a 9-pin block) has a 10-pin connector connected to it, ugh. Pin 10 (an aqua colored wire) is hanging over the edge, but it's been working like this, so wonder what have I been missing?

I have a new MPU and rectifier board coming in the next few days. Watched a video on replacing the rectifier board, doesn't look to terrible (unless all the E connection points don't match). Enjoying learning about this. My conclusion is that even though my rectifier board is highly rigged, the new MPU board should fix the issue. That said (even if correct), I'm going to tackle the rectifier board as it's clearly not setup as designed!

And we continue. Got the new MPU board and didn’t make it last this part of the instructions (see attached). TP1 on the solenoid board only got .14 bolts DC, looks like it’s supposed to get 5v. So I don’t want to plug in a new board until I know what’s up. I have the new rectifier on the way, do I need to order a new solenoid board as well or is that test fail more related to the rectifier?

Ugh, I’m thinking I need all new wire harnesses too (as the JP3 plug on the rectifier board looks all burned up).

Would love any suggestions, right now my plan is to install the new rectifier board when it gets here, then run the test points, then do the same for the solenoid. If it’s still .14v at TP1, order a new solenoid driver board. Will eventually get there!

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As ugly as it is, I am getting the correct voltages from the rectifier board test points. I’m still going to replace it.

On the SDB, TP5 is 2.4.

On the SDB, TP3 and TP1 read the same, .14V.

I think it's the connection/plug at J3 on the rectifier board, which I'll redo.

Really appreciate the hand holding.

So here is my rectifier board. The wire that’s supposed to go to j3 pin 8 is tied to tp3.

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yes sir, on the way. I have the rectifier board, which came with new plugs and crimp connectors. Just waiting on a crimper. I'm going to install the new rectifier board, and re-plug J3 (the others look fine).

The only mystery to me now (and I guess I'll find out) is that J1 currently has a 10-pin plug, and it's a 9-pin header. What is on pin 10 that is hanging over (pic attached)?

Also, the orange cable that is soldered to TP3 (11V), I believe should be pin 8 of J3, which measures at 5V. Wondering if sending that extra voltage to the SDB caused the problem.

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Well, I’m feeling very accomplished right now. Replaced the rectifier board with a new one. That definitely stretched my skills/knowledge on soldering and electrical components, but just followed the directions, all the wires were the right colors, etc. while I’m waiting for crimpers to make a new J3 plug, I plugged in the broken 2-piece (used to be one piece before it broke at pinJ3 and manually crimped (added a little solder) the orange wire that was connected directly to the old rectifier TP3, and pushed it in the cavity for pin 8. It’s in their snug and on the pin. Got my 5 bolts at SDB TP1, and plugged back in my original MPU board and bingo, back in business!

I want to remake JP3 on the rectifier correctly, and I guess I’m going to install the Alltek MPU for free play . Put some money into a game that I was basically going to give away, but now will be hard to do. I guess I’ll just make more room, story of my life with this hobby (I know I’m not alone).

Thank you all for the help, pinside is such a great community.

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That’s what I used to do, from 1999-2004. Drove the #5 car in 2000 (after Arie retired) and that’s been my username about everywhere ever since. Car in the avatar picture is in the 2003 Indy 500 with Panther Racing. I went out and bought the Indianapolis 500 pinball, turns out it was not well cared for so I essentially restored it (blew up a few things learning) and got bit by the pinball bug.