I'm going to swing by and check out a friend's non-working Kiss tomorrow. Any typical issues that I should be on the lookout for? I have never worked with early SS pins.
Socketed IC's on MPU board get loose. Bad flipper coil due to misadjusted EOS switch burns up the coil and causes a blown fuse that prevents the MPU from fully powering up. Or, simply a bad MPU board because of a faulty clock, zero crossing or reset circuit .
Ive seen 3 different machines that don't fire turn them on wiggle the connectors a little bit and bam!!!
Kiss is no different from the other early Bally's. The lamp sockets suck and that 4x4 array can be a PITA to keep lit. There is a replacement for it.
The aux lamp board usually has failed transistors too but is easily fixable.
Well the MPU is completely missing and all of the connectors on the rectifier board were cut and soldered to the back of the header pins.
Which MPU is the best replacement for this game? I can probably fix the rec board.
The good news out of this visit is that I will get a project Space Station for helping him out. Maybe even a Tempest arcade.
Quoted from Hougie:I'm going to swing by and check out a friend's non-working Kiss tomorrow. Any typical issues that I should be on the lookout for? I have never worked with early SS pins.
Oh man... i dont even know where to begin hehe...
If it is dead... Start with power supply. MPU board needs +5v and +12v to start booting up.
Generally Bally games suffer from poor connectors. Single sided PCBs crack solder joints. .100" connectors rip at the ends. Rectifier plugs burn up. Poor grounding on the driver board (see connectors). The original MPU battery pukes its guts on the MPU and sometimes the lamp driver.
Quoted from barakandl:The original MPU battery pukes its guts on the MPU and sometimes the lamp driver.
I have no idea what the orig MPU looked like, it was missing when he got the game. He got the game as a package deal with his current wife
Thankfully, there was no sign of acid damage on the lamp driver board. I looked pretty hard at it and everything seemed clean there.
Get the Alltek Ultimate MPU Board. It's great and has free play built in if you choose to use that option.
First off this is probably a noob fix:
I've got a weird one here. When the guy first showed me the machine he turned it on and said this is all that it does. It lit up and had flipper power. He had an extension cable plugged into the service outlet and the main power cable was cut. What gives here?
So where does that extension cable lead to?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide
The photo crops out the MOV on the line filter - you want to make sure it's not blown.
Usually when someone does something dumb with electricity, there is a reason.....
How should this switch be wired? I don't want to kill myself or someone else wiring it up incorrectly. What are the ways to test that switch and the line filter for proper function?
Another odd one was that the harness for j3 on the power transformer was missing the wire for j3-13 solenoid bus. Connectors J1-3 were soldered directly to the back of the header pins. The cable ties look to have been untouched in thirty years or so. Where can I look to hunt this rogue wire down? This baby is turning out to have some nice hacks.
Pg 38 of the manual shows how the switch was supposed to be wired.
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1386/Bally_1979_Kiss_Manual.pdf
The only problem I've ever had with my Bally KISS is it makes the ladies too hot and bothered when they see it lit up. I just can't keep up.
I'm getting somewhere now. The line filter tested okay. MOV is good. I have a new power switch DPST installed. The Power rectifier board still has some problems. All hooked up, the game was giving me some GI and nothing else. The power test points were:
TP1- 7.5
TP2 - 246
TP3 - 1.2
TP4 - 7
TP5 - 44.5
Edit: I hooked it up to a power cord on the bench, after checking all of my solder work, and now I get 13.8 out of TP3.
I was originally not getting anything on TP4 and then Captain Moron realized that he wasn't using the AC setting on the multimeter.
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