(Topic ID: 34324)

Bally Joust help

By Skybug

11 years ago


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  • 308 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by edednedy
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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There are 308 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 7.
#1 11 years ago

Hi,

I have to replace a plastic bushing on one of my flippers. The pinball repair book says, easy to replace, just three wood screws. However, I'm looking at the flipper configuration and it seems that it'll take more than just the three screws. Could you tell me which parts are necessary to remove - and how to remove them - in order to get to the bushing? And will I be messing up the zipper part when I do so?

Also, I will need to solder the orange wire back on. Can a regular wire cutter strip an old wire like this?

Thank you!

flipper_bushing.jpgflipper_bushing.jpg

#2 11 years ago

To access the screws for the bushings, you must remove the flipper shaft from the prawl (in the photo you provided the prawl is identified the arrow and the text "bushing to be replaced is under here"). There are two allen head screws that must be loosened or removed on the prawl to remove the flipper shaft. There is no soldering involved. There is a nice breakdown on pinrepair.com.

#3 11 years ago

Loosen the allen/hex fastener to the flipper shaft.

To me it looks like the whole assembly can be dropped out of the way so you can access the bushings.

Looking at the pictures here you can see which ones have to be removed ------>
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#zips

#4 11 years ago

allen head screws - something new to me.
I'll have to go check it out & see if I have a tool to remove it.

#5 11 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

To me it looks like the whole assembly can be dropped out of the way so you can access the bushings.

or...turn the PF upside down again, right?

#6 11 years ago

the loose orange wire above it is very tight; I have to strip it a little to solder it but will my regular wire stripper work on this non-plastic sheath?

#7 11 years ago
Quoted from Skybug:

allen head screws - something new to me.
I'll have to go check it out & see if I have a tool to remove it.

Home depot, lowes ,sears -kmart < craftsman usa better quality w/lifetime warr. get the multi sized pack sae -american Not the metric (unless someone changed to metric? highly doubtful)

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from Skybug:

non-plastic sheath?

Cloth just slides back w/a little effort, fingernails help with that.

#9 11 years ago

You guys have ALL the answers!

Thanks again!

#10 11 years ago

Your welcome.

Pin-it

#11 11 years ago

Don't remove the allen head set screws completely. Just back them out a full turn or so.

Before you take anything apart, I would check the good side to see how much "play" there is in the flipper bushing by trying to lift the flipper straight up and down. Like you are trying to lift it out of the playfield. Take note of that and make the bad one match it as you reassemble it.

+1 on sliding the cloth back. It is a pain to actually strip it. Your question in the first post about regular wire cutters stripping an old wire like this...kinda but not really. It is a pain. I think I already said that. When I first saw those cloth wires with the sheathing pulled back I thought it looked like the wire had gotten too hot and the insulation had bubbled up. Maybe you have seen that in your machine.

Remember that Pinball Ninja video link I sent you on Joust? He takes the playfield completely out in that video. Probably too late now, but I bet it would have helped when you were soldering the new fuse holder in.

#12 11 years ago

Yes I'm going to watch that video again and learn from him about the machine

I don't have the strength to completely lift the playfield off, but for the fuse holder I rested the PF on the cabinet upside down. That's what all those Joust posts were about on the Klondike thread. Getting it out of the way, I was able to reach the fuse holder more easily, although it was still tricky working down there with short wires and a hot iron!

#13 11 years ago

I also got new flipper bats for both sides, as they are broken. So, hoping to do two things at once. Broken bushing, broken bat.

#14 11 years ago

I would replace both bushings since you are taking the flipper bats out.

#15 11 years ago

Oh. I only ordered one bushing. OK I can do one flipper, and then wait on the other.

#16 11 years ago

Its fine, just my preference. Remember to use the good one as a reference.

#17 11 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

I would replace both bushings since you are taking the flipper bats out.

Ditto ^^^at the least on the flipper bats IMO

#18 11 years ago

OK I'll order another bushing for the other flipper; thanks for the tip! And working on this part shouldn't upset the zipper mechanism, right?

#19 11 years ago

Williams Blast Off 5/67 To Laser Ball 12/79

http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.html

Ask for Steve Young for fitment of the kit and or if the bushing are avail. by themselves?
The flippers are avail separate.

Complete Kit Includes:

2 Plungers & Links Assy
2 Retaining Rings
2 Return Springs
2 Coil Stops
1 Flipper Pawl Assy-R
1 Flipper Pawl Assy-L
1 Allen Key
2 Flipper Bushing
2 Sleeves
2 EOS Switches
4 Screws

Part#
KT-WFLIP01
$46.38

Plus the Flippers

http://www.pbresource.com/flippers.html

#20 11 years ago
Quoted from Skybug:

allen head screws - something new to me.
I'll have to go check it out & see if I have a tool to remove it.

I've had a set like this and used it many times for fipper prawl's..and many other things that need an allen wrench.

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Pal-15233-Piece-Metric-Folding/dp/B000H6W2WQ/ref=sr_1_6

#21 11 years ago

Yeah! just bought one at the hardware store. We had some larger ones here, but I got a mini-set.

#22 11 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Ask for Steve Young for fitment of and if the bushing are avail. by themselves?

Yeah, I had emailed pbresource earlier and he gave me the part number. The bushing is a different size on the zipper flippers; so I'll tackle the broken bushing flipper first and hopefully I got the correct size and if everything works great then I'll order another one.

#23 11 years ago

And I guess I'll work on the playfield propped up (instead of upside-down), as I'll have to manage both sides as I'm doing this...

#24 11 years ago
Quoted from Skybug:

I had emailed pbresource earlier and he gave me the part number.

Cool deal.
The best way to check for fitment. (call or e-mail) Rather than guess.

#25 11 years ago

Light bulb crisis!

I had a hard time removing a bulb from the backbox. When I finally got it, the glass came out but its socket remained in the holder. The socket is corroded on the inside. I can't remove it. Can I just leave it as is, and there will be one less bulb behind the backglass? Or will something "blow up" when I go to turn the machine on again?

#26 11 years ago

MATCH UNIT

I noticed that the match unit moves quite easily; the wheel rotates properly, however the little arm moves towards the bell but can't reach it to ring it. There's about 1/8" or more of a gap. The bell seems to be set at the closest point possible in order for it to be hit, and it's been hit in the past as the one spot is worn out. But even if it wasn't worn out, the arm wouldn't be able to reach it.

#27 11 years ago

Usually when driven by the solenoid, the gong will strike the bell. However, the mounting point for the bell is elongated to allow a "volume control" and as a way to turn the bell "off".

#28 11 years ago

There is only a slight chance that the filament wires from the bulb are shorted together. If so, the backbox light fuse will blow when you power up the game. I would rip the bulb base out with a good (USA made) pair of long or needle-nose pliers. Then install a new bulb.

#29 11 years ago

RE: Match Unit
OK thank you! I'll see if I can loosen the screw and bring it in closer. I thought it was all the way over, but maybe there's a little more space.

#30 11 years ago
Quoted from MrBally:

I would rip the bulb base out with a good (USA made) pair of long or needle-nose pliers.

OK thanks, I'll work on it some more until I can get it removed.

#31 11 years ago
Quoted from Skybug:

OK thanks, I'll work on it some more until I can get it removed.

You internally "peel" it like the way an old sardine can opened. You are gripping and twisting the light bulb base.

#32 11 years ago

OK and it won't ruin the socket holder?

#33 11 years ago

I haven't ruined one yet using that method. Maybe had to reshape a few using the same pliers when the socket was fused really well to the bulb base.

#34 11 years ago
Quoted from bonzo71:

fipper prawl's.

Quoted from Pin-it:

1 Flipper Pawl Assy-R
1 Flipper Pawl Assy-L

The Proper spelling ^^^^ PAWL

#35 11 years ago

My bell ringer arm is spring loaded so when the match unit stops, the arm snaps in to hit the bell and then returns to its normal position. That way it does not rest against the bell all the time. Does yours work that way? And it does not reach the bell? Could that pivot point be gummed up not allowing the arm to spring in toward the bell?

#36 11 years ago

No it springs back fine; but the bell can be repositioned and Mr. Bally thinks I can move it closer to the arm. I will try that today. And I'll check the pivot point too, although it seems to be working fine. Thanks!

#37 11 years ago

I replaced the flipper bushing and bat, but there seems to be a lot more play vertically on the underside than with the other flipper. Something flew off when I removed the bat - I wasn't expecting that - and I found a washer but I'm wondering if there was another spacer of some sort.

#38 11 years ago

After replacing the flipper, and soldering the orange wire and a fuse holder on the underside of the playfield, I started the game. It seemed to play fine, until I switched to two-player mode and then it lost some of its electrics. Now it does that at the one-player game, too.

Here's the start of a one-player game. I can get rid of the buzz by hitting the 2nd player up relay switch in the backbox; when I do so, most of the 0's turn to 1's on the 2nd player score reel. The buzzing stops, but the electrics don't come back for the rest of the game. Even the ball count seems to be off a bit.

Please let me know what I should be checking next.

Thank you!

#39 11 years ago
Quoted from Skybug:

I replaced the flipper bushing and bat, but there seems to be a lot more play vertically on the underside than with the other flipper. Something flew off when I removed the bat - I wasn't expecting that - and I found a washer but I'm wondering if there was another spacer of some sort.

Parts breakdown sheet:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_1971/index.html#/130/zoomed

#40 11 years ago

Also, compare it to the other flipper for parts. Can't watch the video now and won't be able to for a while. Hope someone else has a chance soon.

#41 11 years ago
Quoted from Skybug:

but there seems to be a lot more play vertically on the underside than with the other flipper.

Loosen up the flipper that has the more play in it(the hex fasteners) and then push that assembly towards the flipper while at the same time pushing the flipper down removing the slack .

But still see if there is a spacer missing first! compared to the other one.

#42 11 years ago

WOW this is amazing; how do you FIND this stuff??!! I will look at my unit carefully.

Any advice about tackling my electrics problem? (see my video)

#43 11 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Loosen up the flipper that has the more play in it(the hex fasteners) and then push that assembly towards the flipper while at the same time pushing the flipper down removing the slack .

But doesn't that pull the flipper closer to the playfield so it can scratch it? OK let me try. But I'll check the parts first.

#44 11 years ago
Quoted from Skybug:

But doesn't that pull the flipper closer to the playfield so it can scratch it?

The bushing you put in should keep that space in check ,however if it does hit then a spacer is in order to prevent that damage.

#45 11 years ago
Quoted from Skybug:

I can get rid of the buzz by hitting the 2nd player up relay switch in the backbox;

Could be a coil getting weak , Photo?

Quoted from Skybug:Even the ball count seems to be off a bit.

Try it manually and see what the results are? Does it count through each # up until game over properly?

#46 11 years ago

OK here's my pic of 2nd player relay.

2nd_relay.jpg2nd_relay.jpg

#47 11 years ago
Quoted from Skybug:

here's my pic of 2nd player relay.

Looks like it is gotten a little hot (paper is burned and most of it missing)

Quoted from Skybug:

most of the 0's turn to 1's on the 2nd player score reel. The buzzing stops, but the electrics don't come back for the rest of the game.

Maybe something jarred loose when you said to do the fuse you had to put it upside down on the playfield?as that could be why if it ran fine prior to that.Maybe something got hit or bent?

#48 11 years ago

Spring looks stretched but they do in the bus also. Also there's a switch leaf on the back column 3rd row that looks bent.

#49 11 years ago

Several of the relays look like this. If you see the video by Pinball Ninja, he shows that specifically. I think the coil looks fine.

New information: I just played a 2-player game and Player 1 gets what you see in my video, no bells or dings or scores on the reels; however Player 2 gets more sounds and points scored. So the Player 1 doesn't work. Also the "1" score relay doesn't push down like the others and sometimes goes a little crazy. I'll show with a video.

#50 11 years ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

Also there's a switch leaf on the back column 3rd row that looks bent.

No that's just a wire behind it, stapled to the wall.

There are 308 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 7.

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