Dull clunk was probably your knocker. It should have given you a credit on credit wheel in backglass area as well.
You will not get an extra ball when game goes into game over,which is when the match works.
You will not get an extra ball unless your game is a add-a-ball game or you hit an extra ball target somewhere.Or even a rollover. A light should come on indicating you have an extra ball. Read your instructions on the apron to see how to get extra ball.
On the video,the first pop bumper the ball hits had no bell.Could be the way the game was made,but I think you have a setting in the backbox that will give you a bell at 1 and 10 pt. May just need an adjustment.

The manual (available on IPDB.org) says that the High Score feature can be set for extra balls or replays but that the Match feature is for replays only.

(The schematic on IPDB.org is kind of ratty. If you have a better copy maybe you could send them a good scan.)
Joust Match (resized).jpg
The three boxes in the upper right corner above represent the Match Unit disc and the 1 point score reels for both players. The arrows pointing into each of the three boxes indicate the current position of each device. As each score reel advances its arrow too advances through the ten positions. The Match Unit is a step unit that advances "randomly" during the game; in fact it takes three steps each time the score motor turns (not shown here) but the intention is that the function that advances the Match Unit is unknown and/or hard to keep track of.

After the last ball the game just needs to determine if the number it chose with the Match Unit is the same as the number shown on either score reel. If the positions of the Match Unit and either player's score reel match, their arrows would line up and form a complete circuit from the top of the schematic through the Match Unit and score reel. For example if the Match Unit and player 1's score reel are both in position 3 there would be a complete circuit from the top of the schematic, through the 23-4 wire between the Match Unit and score reels and out to the 57-1 wire at the bottom of player 1's score reel.

Just below the score reels are two Score Motor switches, 3A and 4E (in red). Looking at the Score Motor chart in the upper left you can see that the switches on the #3 cam all activate just before the switches on the #4 cam. So the effect is that the game evaluates the match condition for player 1 first and then player 2 immediately after. Note that the 2nd player is only evaluated if the "2 Can Play" relay has tripped and closed the normally open switch shown, indicating that two players are playing.

Below that is a switch on the Match relay which closes only at the end of the game. Otherwise you might award a replay any time the Score Motor turns. Next to the Match relay switch is the Match Feature adjustment which can disable the feature altogether.

At the bottom of the schematic is a normally closed switch on the Replay Unit that opens if the unit has the maximum number of credits to keep the unit from trying to add more credits than it can hold. Below that is the Replay Unit Step Up solenoid which advances the Replay Unit by one step, adding one credit, each time it fires.

/Mark

The knocker (called the Sounder on this schematic) only fires when the Replay (or Credit) unit advance arm closes its EOS (end of stroke) switch. So it only knocks when you get a credit.

I don't know if Joust originally had one but Match Units with bells were common, and bells were often removed. This is from the '66 parts catalog:
Bally 1966 catalog Match Unit (resized).jpg
Bells like this are driven by the advance arm on the step unit. The schematic will show the circuit for the step unit advance solenoid, but won't usually show the bell since there is no dedicated circuit for it.

I think your looking for the ball return kicker solenoid. Has the apron been removed to inspect it’s mechanical operation?

Yes, it's the knocker. It plugs into the socket on the right side of the bottom board. You might notice that the wire colors match too.
Knocker (resized).jpg
/Mark

The bell is driven by the 100 and/or 1000 point relay. Chances are one of them is stuck on. Once any point relay fires it holds itself on through a lock in circuit until the EOS (end of stroke) switch on the score reel opens. The EOS switch opens once the score reel plunger has pulled in to let the point relay know that it's work is done and it can relax. It's a feedback mechanism.
Joust 100 pt relay (resized).jpg
Judging from your video it doesn't seem like any of the player 1 score reels advance. That could be due to the make/break switch on the 2nd Player Up relay not closing on the player 1 side:
Joust score reels (resized).jpg
So it could be that the 100 or 1000 point relay fires, and waits to see one of the player 1 score reels advance but the score reel is disabled because the switch in the red box isn't closing.

BTW you shouldn't let a solenoid buzz like that for very long. They're intended to work for only a fraction of a second at a time. They quickly overheat if left on much longer than that and as you've seen the fuse won't blow.

Skybug, The red box is a switch on the 2nd player up relay in the backbox, See photo. The switch you need is the one with the Red-White wire. I think it is Green-Black on one side of that switch and White-Yellow on the other.

One side of the switch should be open while the other side is closed. Look real close as you press the switch stack down with your finger, the open side should close and the closed side should open.

saearbb (resized).jpg

The schematic gives you enough information to work it out. The switch is on the 2nd Player Up relay which you've already identified. The schematic shows you that it's a make/break or three bladed switch. It also shows you the three wire colors.
Joust wire colors (resized).jpg
That should be enough to uniquely identify the switch you're after. Some games (notably Williams games) come with manuals that explicitly spell out each switch.

BTW, the schematic copy on IPDB.org could be better. If you have a good copy consider sending a quality scan to IPDB.org. Some of the big box office stores will scan it for a few bucks.

If you use an alligator clip test lead to jumper the 15-3/red-white wire to the 48-5/green-black wire do the player 1 score reels work? If so the switch contacts might be dirty or maybe there's not enough tension between the two switch leaves.

Tightening the screws could change the tension between some of the switch blades.

I would jumper around the switch first. That will tell you whether or not the switch is the issue. No sense futzing with it if the issue is somewhere else. If it is the issue, adjust the switch leaves with a switch adjuster, not with the switch stack screws.

If you don't have any clips, an alternative is to do the opposite of jumpers. Use piece of heavy paper l(like a pieces of a business card) and block the switches in question.

In your case, I would block both sides of your suspect switch. With both sides blocked neither player should score, Then remove the paper from one side, test, put paper back in, remove paper from other side, and test again. When the problem comes back, you'll know if you've found the right switch.

If nothing changes either way, you've either got the wrong switch or your problem lies elsewhere.

Inserting and removing the business card, you may have cleaned a dirty switch without knowing it. Many people use a business card strip to clean contacts, so it's possible.

For a switch to work 3 things are necessary:
1) When open, there should be a small space between the contact points (duh)
2) When closing, the long blade's contact point should push the short blade's contact point enough to move the short blade
3) The contact points should be clean, which they usually will be if #2 is happening

I don't follow where you ended up with the adjustments, but you can have either a replay or an extra ball/shoot again for reaching a high score threshold, not both (unless you jumper both sockets in the adjustment together):
Joust Hi Score adj (resized).jpg

/Mark

The high score circuit is in reply #43. You could try experimenting with different high score levels. Or you could try eliminating parts of the circuit with a jumper wire to see if you can isolate the problem. For example if you jumper from the 14-7 wire at the top to the 58 wire next to the 1000 point relay switch shoot again should activate every time 1000 points are added. That would indicate the problem is somewhere between the 14-7 wire and the 58 wire.

Your problem could be this switch on your 2nd Player Up relay. See switch in blue circle. If it is open it won't complete the circuit to the Shoot Again relay. I know you had some issues with the 2nd Player Up relay earlier and did some adjusting on it, so it would seem to be the most likely culprit. I would jumper the White wire to the White/Black wire on this 2nd Player up relay and see what happens. Or in place of a jumper, just make sure that switch is clean and making good contact. It is a make-break switch so when one side opens the other should close and vice-versa.

jousts1 (resized).jpg