(Topic ID: 16305)

Bally Joust, 1969, Oh boy...

By desertT1

7 years ago

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  • 126 posts
  • 39 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by desertT1
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders


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#36 7 years ago

Hi desertT1, thanks for this thread. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

About the worn ball track along the top apron arch- I had a*lightly* sanded the lower edge of the worn track using #340 paper before spraying the Varathane. My playboard looked pretty bad immediately following the first light coat of Varathane for the white paint splotches, as the photos below show. 24hrs later they almost cleared up and the splotches had completely disappeared by the last spraying.
I applied 4 coats of Varathane, each heavier than the previous spray. The last coat was really, really very thick.

I was initially concerned because some of my acrylic painting had a somewhat rough surface along with the worn arch. I really couldn't sand very much before spraying because the original paint was extremely fragile in many places, thin etc. The thick Varathane filled all the pits and valleys in the paint along with the worn arch making any indention inconsequential to play.

I used about 2/3 bottle of 91% rubbing alcohol and almost 2 Mr. Clean Magic Erasers to get my playboard clean. I was being very observant to see if I was removing any paint as I rubbed, checking the eraser for flakes or stains but the playboard did well without issue. I ended up going over it twice over.
Before using the ME, I had first removed everything that stuck out of the playboard... even rollover wires, outhole bottoms and masked every slit and hole on the underside with masking tape to keep the alcohol and ME off the back side and out of the switches.
The light sockets under the plastic graphics would have been too difficult to remove, and I didn't want ME or Varathane getting in them so I rolled a small piece of paper towel into a ball and stuffed it into the empty sockets.
I had followed up the ME cleaning with Napthia, and it took some elbow grease to get all the dried ME off.

If you are unfamiliar with matching paint color (as unfamiliar as I am) I recommend taking lots of photos to use when you buy paints at the store. Before going to the store, verify the colors in the photo are a close match to your playboard, and retake them under different lighting if they don't match well. If you choose acrylic then get the "Heavy body", I found the lighter types don't cover very well. Also get a cheap color wheel while you're there so you'll know which colors to mix to get a closer match.

I am confident the original paint is permanently locked down under the Varathane. If you choose to spray your playboard before doing any touchup I would be certain the first coat is extremely thin. I had signed and dated my playboard in the covered area under the bottom steel apron using a sharpie pen before spraying the last application. It is easy to tell the lettering is not written onto the playboard, but rather elevated off the board to some degree, enough to cast a shadow on the playboard itself if placed under a strong light. If that was touch up paint in a seen area it would look rather odd.

Your playfield looks to be in better shape than mine was.

1st_Coat_Varathane_Closeup_3.jpg 1st_Coat_Varathane_Closeup_4.jpg

#38 7 years ago

Hi desertT1:

You can scrub forward in this video to about 4:55 and see how my grooved arch definitely effected game play on my unrestored game. Maybe yours isn't as severe as mine was. If that is the case and your game was mine, I wouldn't mess with the worn track other than clean it out good as possible with Napthia using a fresh clean cloth before spraying.

1 month later
#42 7 years ago

I put #47's in both my EM pins and I think they look great. Bright enough for me.

2 months later
#46 6 years ago

Far as the glass goes, I gave a few repair tips here at the bottom of the page:


4 months later
#49 6 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Things aren't perfect, but I'm doing the best I can. Besides, this is going to be played, not sit in a museum. It'll pass the 5 foot test, and that's good enough for me and my kids couldn't be any less bothered about paint condition.

Sounds like you're taking your time and doing your best. That along with your great attitude is the winning combination. I found there is -always- more to do on the playfield touchups. It's never quite "done".
I had to force myself to stop at one point and say "good enough!". In all cases I thought it wouldn't turn out very good but I was proved wrong. They looked very good after being sealed in the clear coat.

I found that people don't even notice minor touch-up errors when the game is played. In their eyes it's perfect, and they are too busy concentrating on the game play itself and nothing else matters. Since the errors aren't noticed by players, the only thing left is you. If you've done your best then you're covered. Be proud you've done a good job which others and yourself will truly enjoy, and multiplied the value.

I think the biggest matter this will effect is resale value. Playfield condition weighs a lot in negotiation considerations. If I ever sell my machines I expect a buyer to scrutinize my work. Considering all things, I can spend $150 on a machine, another $150 on parts and materials and 200 hours to transform rotted junk into something nice. If I am -really- cheap with myself and consider $30/hr labor, it's a $6,300 machine.

I think it would be very hard for me to sell a machine for over $1000 whether or not the playfield repair is super fabulous or just plain good. Given that, I'll be keeping it for a long time for friends and future grand kids to enjoy. So what if the playfield isn't the pinnacle of perfection?

11 months later
#64 5 years ago

Yea, looks great!

#66 5 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Also, some days I think things are going well, others I think I should have just cleared it to a finish (and not just to keep the paint from flaking off) and put it back together. The colors are certainly going to be more vibrant when I'm done, but I'd honestly just pay for a new PF at this point. I don't have the patience to make this fun for the whole process, but I'm going to finish it because I don't like to give up.

This is my exact attitude toward my '47 United project. I am more interested in other aspects of the game other than the PF. Yet I am stuck rebuilding the nasty rotted out thing. Progress is too slow for my liking and not fun anymore. I want the PF to be done *NOW* yet it has to be best I can do before sealing it up.
Sometimes I wish I would have just cleaned it best I could and sealed it up. But then I think "Ewwww"! Knowing myself, I must keep going on track with my project otherwise it will sit disassembled for an indefinite long period of time.
I have a 50's pachinko machine stored in 5 gallon buckets for over 2 years now for that reason......

1 week later
#69 5 years ago

I highly suggest getting airbrush stencils at an art store. I picked a pack up for about $3 which was 3 sheets covering a total of about 2.5 sq foot. I wouldn't stick tape to the PF. They're translucent so you can draw your pattern on the stencil, cut with an exacto knife, tape overspray mask to the stencil and spray away.
No waiting, spray and you're done. I took the time to cut a bunch of stencils in one bunch (while watching TV) and sprayed them all wthin an hour or so. Quick and painless.

I was even able to cut out tiny letter stencils using a magnifying glass for my United Singapore rebuild.

#72 5 years ago

I went into Michaels and asked for airbrush stencils. They were near the paint section around some other pre-cut letter stencils. Translucent blue sheets, a pack of 3 probably 8x11" big.

1 week later
#84 5 years ago

I think these may be of enormous help because your tape will never touch your work:
I see they have some larger sheets too. Pretty cheap.

Based on reviews of this product, some say they are difficult to cut. The ones I got at Michaels were great. A new exacto knife blade easily sunk all the way through on one pass.

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