Well, all I can find is the German one, too, but I think it's a score motor sw. on 3, but I can't tell which one.

Hi Lambecka
I think NO german Service Man did like the german schematics (at the times)
Please check the color of the wires on the Outhole-Switch - is the Outhole-Switch "my red 1" or is it "my blue 2" --- I guess "my red 1" so check Score-Motor-Cam 8, Make-and-Brake Switch (here also: look for color of the wires to find the switch on the switchstack). (((Maybe we need to dig-in into the german schematics - I hope not))) Greetings Rolf

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Simple to verify with a jumper wire. Once verified, unscrew the switch stack next to the one with the bad switch to adjust & deburnish. If you need to replace, pull off the appropriate stack.

Might be Ball Index or Outhole relays.

Hi Lambecka
when the fault happens - can You still actuate the Flipper-Bats ? See the JPG - the switch on Game-Over-Relay must open when reaching "Game-Over". Greetings Rolf

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Hi Lambecka
see the JPG - I believe when the pin comes to Game-Over - just before actuating the Game-Over-Relay: The Number-Match relay is made to pull - its switch (in my orange wiring) opens and hinders the actuating of the Outhole-Kicker (?). Does in Your pin the Number-Match relay actuate ? and truely opens the switch ? Greetings Rolf

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Hi Albert
do You have paper tags in the pin telling the name of a relay or stepper ? If "Yes": Is the text in German or in English ?
Look at the JPG - along "dark blue" lines the Match-Relay should fire - check the wiring. The "Sp. R. Relay" is the Player-Reset-Relay - it must be pulling so its switch in the dark-blue-wiring is closed --- does the Player-Reset-Relay fire ? Greetings Rolf

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Hi Alex
see the JPG in post-10 - "orange text: No Match Relay" and the switch to the right - DOES this switch on the No-Match-Relay truely opens when the relay is pulling ? Not only look at the long blades with the contact-points --- also look at the short studs with the solder-lug - a drop of solder there or a doghair crap of wire or one of the solder-lugs heavy bent, making faulty contact ? Greetings Rolf

Hi Albert
I beg Your pardon - in my last post I addressed You "Alex". Greetings Rolf

Hi Albert
it can be a timing issue --- see the JPG in post-10 - following top-down "my orange" wiring. The No-Match-Relay must pull-in, stay pulling - have its switch truely open - quite a while - the Score-Motor does run and close its switch "3". So the switch on the No-Match-Relay must be open until the running Score-Motor has closed and reopened its switch "3". (((We may have to have an closer look at Sp. R. Relay is Player-Reset-Relay , see JPG in post-12, to not cut to early the feeding current to Coil on No-Match-Relay))) Greetings Rolf

Hi Albert
the tags in Your pin have english text - the ipdb-schematics is written in (crummy) german. I show a snippet from ipdb-schematics "Gator" - this JPG covers the same what I show in post-12 (in german) to "Bally Hoo". When it comes to stepping to next player and/or next ball: Williams and Bally pins try FIRST to step on the ball
- IF (if, if) successfully stepped on the ball: The Player-Reset-Relay pulls-in and the Player-Unit is resetted (THIS happens in an 2,3,4 player game AND also in a ONE-Player-Game.
- IF no stepping on the ball (so the Player-Reset-Relay does not pull-in) then the Player-Unit is stepped forward / up.
Grumble, the written above is "theory I learned" - it does not really match with the JPG here and the JPG in post-12 --- I believe the "Player-Advance-Relay" troubles me.
Anyway - for the problem (post-19) - see the JPG here - look in Your pin at the Coin-Unit and the Player (Up) Unit - has a wire broken-off somewhere ?

Off-topic - I learned something on "drawing stuff in schematics" --- see here in the JPG "encircled blue" - drawn at TWO places --- then look at the JPG in post-12, upper right corner: Drawn only in one place (the position-zero on the Player-Unit). Greetings Rolf

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Hi Albert
Your description in post-21 does not match with description in post-19. Please write a more detailled decription.
"Sometimes faults" are often caused by a wire broken-away from a solder-lug --- wires are stiff - stay in place (connection) --- a bit of shaking / vibration - the broken-off end moves away a bit (no connection) - again some vibration (connection again) and so on. I once had an sometimes fault on an Extraball-Feature - it turned out to be a broken-off wire to the coil on Extraball-Relay staying in place (sometimes) ...

Since then I do not only look at soldered-on wires --- I grab a wire and gently pull a bit - broken-off ? I go to sleep, till tomorrow. Greetings Rolf

Hi Albert
thanks for post-23. I still have a problem of understanding. You want to play a ONE-Player-Game so You press the Credit-Button, the pin resets and finally kicks out a ball - of course it must be Player-1-Ball-1.
(AAA) I can interpret post-23 as "after resetting the pin kicks out a ball - Player-2-Ball-1".
(BBB) I can interpret post-23 as "after resetting the pin kicks out a ball - Player-1-Ball-1. Launching the ball and making point lets the pin step to Player-2-Ball-1.
(CCC) You write what exactly happens.
Please write AAA or BBB or CCC.
(((We cannot start a FOUR-Player-Game without first having a "ONE-Player-Game but the Ball is not launched".)))

Player-Unit and Ball-Unit --- it is like when we drive on the Freeway, we miss the Exit (we want, wanted to leave the Freeway) - we (must) drive on - we then see the next Exit-Sign - we say "for us a wrong exit" so we drive on - and on and on ... Greetings Rolf

Hi Albert
first theory (in the first JPG) what happens in a functioning "Gator", One-Player-Game, the first ball is played, lost, enters the Outhole --- along my numbering stuff happens. In short "pink/rosa": The ball enters the Outhole - the "Ball Return Relay (Outhole-Relay)" pulls-in, stays pulling for a while, throws its switches (also makes the motor to run). "Brown": The "Player-Reset-Relay" pulls-in, stays pulling, throws its switches. "Green": The ball is kicked over to the shooter alley and the Ball-Count-Unit steps up. The plunger on the firing Ball-Count-Step-Up-Side closes the E.O.S-Switch and the Player-Unit resets completely (to position-zero (((below position-1 is Player-1 plays))) ). "Blue": The ball traveling to the shooter alley closes (below the apron) the Through-Switch - the Player-Advance-Relay pulls, the Player-Unit steps from position-zero up to position-1.
Now the player (is player-1) can launch the next ball.
Write when You want to discuss "my numbering".

Troubleshooting - see the second JPG - side by side the snippets of schematics "Gator" and "Bally Hoo". Toggle-off the pin and unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) - establish an permanent Jumper-Wire (my dark-red line). Plug-in, start a ONE-Player-Game - can You play a ONE-Player-Game ? If "Yes": We have learned "there is a good connection through the Player-Up-Unit in a ONE-Player-Game. If "No": We have learned "at least one fault is in the unit.
(((IF, if You have "Yes" You then may do a second test - see my "gray jumpering" - we will learn about the original connecting wire "Player-Up-Unit to Coin-Unit for Player-One"))). Greetings Rolf
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Hi Albert
I hope I do not have to stumble through the german schematics (to look for an answer to Your question (Score-Motor sometimes turning more)) - You can build up some bonus - sometimes much bonus --- when collecting the bonus then the Score-Motor runs --- in a turn of 180 degrees the pin can count down (up to) 5 bonus (Bonus-Ladder)--- when there are more bonus to be counted down: The motor must do a second turn of 180 degrees. Please give more details to "motor turns three times". Greetings Rolf

Hi Albert
only to the problem "on the Eject-Hole, top left --- only 100 points instead of 400 points given" - see the JPG. The No-Match-Unit is involved and some Score-Motor-Switches (I have encircled green). See "getting 400 points" is "get 100 by SCM-4" plus "get three times 100 by SCM-9" - and there (encircled orange) You must investigate. Greetings Rolf

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