Bally Harley Davidson Restoration

(Topic ID: 233452)

Bally Harley Davidson Restoration


By Lonzo

73 days ago



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  • 94 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Lonzo
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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There are 94 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 73 days ago

Finally starting my next restoration. I took some time off to build a killer VP and I had to spend a couple months in training at work. All that's done and I am looking forward to starting this project. I picked this one because it is the only one that I have that has a chance to finish by Texas Pinball Festival. This will not be as in depth as the previous restorations because it is a HUO. The playfield is really nice with no wear. There a few inserts that are sinking so that will be most of the work on the playfield. The cabinet is nice but all four leg mounting areas have wrinkles that cannot be fixed. My plan is to do a complete cabinet restore with custom graphics that are based on the original art but with some changes.

Kind of like my other restores, I have a custom features to add if things work out.
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#2 73 days ago

Following

#3 73 days ago

In for the ride...

#4 73 days ago

Interested ...

#5 72 days ago

Looking forward to this. Great work on your other restores.
I wouldn't be able to do 10% of what you do!

#6 71 days ago

Live to ride....Ride to live. BHD for a couple months now and still love it. Good luck with the project.

#7 70 days ago

Damnit! You said you were gonna take a year off! Give others a chance to win!

#8 70 days ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Damnit! You said you were gonna take a year off! Give others a chance to win!

Too funny.
This one is just going to be a nice restore.....watch out in 2020 though. Lol
Aloha...

#9 69 days ago

Subscribed...

#10 69 days ago

Following too.

#11 67 days ago

I got some shots to show the original condition of the machine. Overall in very nice shape.

The cabinet has a little bit of fade but not nearly as much as most HD I have seen.

A couple of blemishes on each side of the main cabinet. Mostly surface marks.
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In this pic, you can see the original color behind where the leg would go. A little bit of fade and damage to the corner.
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Here is the decal damage that is on all 4 legs. Very brittle so there is no fixing this.
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The left side of the backbox is pretty nice.
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The right side has some damage on the lower back side.
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The back is pretty clean with a few surface marks at the top portion of the text.
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The backbox light board is clean and pretty white.
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Inside is pretty clean.
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The underside of the playfield and cabinet look really nice and clean.
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#12 67 days ago

The playfield has no "wood wear". The only issue with the playfield is some sinking inserts which has caused some wear on the key lines and a coupl other inset issues. Overall it is a very nice playfield.

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One of the worst inserts is the S on USA, you can see the black missing on the left side.
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The speedometer has a vertical scratch on it that allows light to show through. You can see it splitting the two zeros on the left. Should be able to fix that.
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Its a shame that the right sling plastic is broken. Being home use only, the plastics are near perfect but now I am gonna have to buy at least a partial set to replace that one.
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I found this kinda funny. Being home use only, I guess they took the protective covering off the side rails after they but the backbox up and called it good. The part that was covered by the backbox hinge, still have the protective film on it on both sides.
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#13 66 days ago

I know not a traditional 'lonzo' restore but any custom graphics on the playfield?

#14 66 days ago
Quoted from PinPatch:

I know not a traditional 'lonzo' restore but any custom graphics on the playfield?

At this point I don't think I am going to do any custom graphics on the playfield although I thought about making a tattoo decal of my name to put on the girl.

#15 66 days ago

Got a good start today. Sometimes its weird to start a new project. You almost look at it and you have no idea where you want to start.
Started digging into the wiring and disconnecting everything. It always looks a mess at this point.
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Finally to the point to take the playfield out.
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Both the cabinet and playfield wiring harnesses are really clean with no dirt or anything on them. Got the playfield secured on the rotisserie after taking the back panel off.
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Next I took the backpanel out and took out all the bulbs. Just needed a light wipe down as it is in really nice shape with no yellowing. The back is very clean as well.
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Removed the hardware and it will go to powder coating.
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I took the ribbon cables off the displays and cleaned them. You can see a little difference in the one I cleaned on the left and the one that hasn't been cleaned on the right. The dirt looked worse in person than in the picture.
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All the cable are cleaned and reinstalled. I had already fixed the issues with the displays when I first got the machine so no work is needed on those. For now I plan on keeping the original displays as they are nice and bright.
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Light board is wrapped and ready to reinstall. I wrapped it to keep is clean and dust free.
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Got the boards out. I already did all my board work when I got the machine so no work is needed on the boards.
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#16 64 days ago

Boards all wrapped up until assembly.
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Removed the speaker panel. Really nice except for the top chrome trim piece will need to be replaced because its marked up where the backbox rests on the cabinet when folded down.
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cleaned all the cable holders. Yeah, this is the glamorous part of restoring. lol
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Metal backpanel was really clean. I will scan that sticker before I attempt to remove it.
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All the vents removed and cleaned. Ready for paint.
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Took pictures and then removed all the stickers that were inside of the cabinet. I will probably make reproductions of these.
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Looks like they painted the backbox after they installed the corner brackets. These are removed and ready for powder.
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Backbox totally cleaned out and ready to be scanned.
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#17 64 days ago

Gotta ask, what holds the speaker panel in?
I see 4 screw holes on the bottom, what hold the on top?

#18 64 days ago
Quoted from wdennie:

Gotta ask, what holds the speaker panel in?
I see 4 screw holes on the bottom, what hold the on top?

4 more screws. They are the security kind with the pin in the center.

#19 64 days ago

Have one of these sitting in storage for years due to a missing left display that seem to be impossible to find!

Will be following, looking good

#20 64 days ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

Have one of these sitting in storage for years due to a missing left display that seem to be impossible to find!
Will be following, looking good

I had some segments missing on one display when I got it but was able to fix them and they are nice and string now.

#21 64 days ago

Following...

#22 63 days ago

You crazy bastard...nothing like waiting to the last minute to start a rebuild for TPF..LOL. Looking forward to seeing what custom touches you will add. Following!

#23 63 days ago
Quoted from TxJay:

You crazy bastard...nothing like waiting to the last minute to start a rebuild for TPF..LOL. Looking forward to seeing what custom touches you will add. Following!

Well. I give this a 50/50 shot of being done in time but I will give it a shot. I have a couple cool ideas.
Either way, I’m looking forward to TPF.

#24 60 days ago

Got the cabinet all cleaned out today. very nice, just a little dirt.
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Of course, you do this long enough and you are gonna have one of those days. Today was one of those days.
I HATE taking off WPC rails. I have tried different methods and I haven't found one that really works well. I should have just used the blow torch since I am taking the decals off anyways. The metal is so thin that its easy to bend the rails when taking them off. You get to a point and its hard to get them to look right. I was taking the second one off and I had got to the point that I was gonna trash the rail so I wasn't really worried about it. I thought I had it off but on the last pull, BAM.
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Kinda sucks because its just more work to do but it can be fixed so no big deal.

Then it was on to scanning the decals.
I put tape across the coin door opening and put X's on it to give the stitching program something to reference.
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Since the side is such a large area, I want to get the scans as close to perfect as I can. It helps the program not have to adjust as much.
To do this I use an angle with an edge on it. I also cannot do the entire thing at once as my program only allows 4 pictures wide and 4 tall. So I will do the main logo first.
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Then I did the sides.
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then the backbox
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I'm not sure if I am gonna put the text back on the back of the backbox but just incase I do, I scanned it too.
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I got a good start on the main cabinet side art. I cleaned up all the lettering and replaced the lines with new ones that are perfect and straight.
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#25 59 days ago

Glued the piece of wood that came off the cabinet back on. I would rather have the wood on there and then just fill the edges than fill the entire area. Used a lot of glue to attach it well. Use wax paper so nothing sticks. A wise man once told me (my dad), that you can never have too many clamps. He was right.
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Also fixed the front corner that had the outer layer pulled up.
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Coin door tore down and ready for powder.
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Started working on the back panel
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You can see that the plastic is warped a little. It seems that every machine I do has this issue.
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The panel was in great shape except there was a little white mark on the top. It is just above where the plastic is so I will fix it.
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The way I normally flatten plastics is with a heat gut and two clean sheets of glass. Old playfield glass works great for this purpose. I lay a sheet down and clean it. Then I lay the plastic on it and heat it with a heat gun. Normally the plastic will raise and curl a little and then start to lay down. once it starts to lay down, then I place the other sheet of glass on to flatten it out and let it sit until its full cooled off. Because of the size of the plastic, its a little more difficult to do because you can only do one section at a time.
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Nice and flat.
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The drain kickers are hard wired so I cut the wire.
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Cleaned it up and replaced the coil sleeve and added a plug.
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Normally I just replace the star posts on my restoration, but since this was HUO and they cleaned up so nice, I will just use these.
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The left outlane lane guide looked nice with just a little bit of ball trail marks. Not nearly as bad as a normal game of this age.
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I wet sanded the guide.
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Made some headway on the playfield. Cleaning and preparing the parts for installation makes the teardown go much slower but should make assembly a lot faster and easier.
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#26 58 days ago

The glued side came out pretty well. Believe it or not, the edges are pretty smooth so there shouldn't be too much filler needed.
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Got the backpanel put back together and wrapped until assembly.
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Got the backbox metal panel ready for powder. I had to scan the decal and I installed screws and washers on every attach point. This keeps the attach point free of clear so there is a good ground with the boards. When I get it back, I will take the screws off and the panel is ready to use.
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Got most of the playfield cleaned off and all the parts were cleaned and stored.
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#27 57 days ago

Worked on the metal ball guides today. There are quite a few in this game. Some had light ball trails and some were more severe. Here is one that had more sever marks on it.
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Wet sanded it and got a nice finish. I did all the rest of them and they are ready to go.
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Then it was on to the drop target assemblies. Most of the metal on the underside of the playfield looks brand new. For some reason, the drop target frames looked like they had some light corrosion on them. I am going to soak them in Apple Cider vinegar and hopefully that cleans them up a bit.
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At first I was pretty excited about the drop target decals because on the side bank they cleaned up to look brand new.
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Then when I got to the center bank that gets more direct hits, they showed a little damage.
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There are some reproductions out there but I would rather have a NOS set. I haven't found one yet but I will keep looking. I can also scan and make my own if I have to.

#28 51 days ago

Got everything off the playfield and it is ready to scan.

I could not find the 1/2 inch wide chrome trim that is on the speaker panel. I looked at all the pinball suppliers and could not find it. I finally located what appears to be a perfect match at O’Reillys auto parts. It is chrome car trim.
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Now to the frustrating part. I get sick of people selling stuff that is "Authorized" that are not even close. This is what I got for the target decals. The orange is not even close. I Authorize crap status for this junk. I will have to go to plan B.
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#29 51 days ago

...did they just scan a real decal and print it on a laser printer without doing anything to the color?

(I work in the printing industry, and that's about how I expect a straight scan of a bright orange spot color to look when printed out.)

#30 51 days ago

I don’t know. I emailed and explained and his response was to send it back because that’s all he had. But yet he talks about all the high tech equipment he has. Well, why can’t younadjust and print a set that looks like they are supposed to. I have an idea on something that might be able to reproduce them. I like to think outside the box.

#31 51 days ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

...I like to think outside the box.

True statement!

#32 51 days ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I could not find the 1/2 inch wide chrome trim that is on the speaker panel. I looked at all the pinball suppliers and could not find it. I finally located what appears to be a perfect match at O’Reillys auto parts. It is chrome car trim.

This is a great choice... I've used the exact thing on a couple of my games: Dr Dude & Mousin Around.

Be careful when putting the head down. That "Brand New / Shiny" plastic trim dents very easily on glass side rails. I now place a lofty towel, directly on the glass, so the head doesn't touch the side rails at all.

#33 50 days ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

This is a great choice... I've used the exact thing on a couple of my games: Dr Dude & Mousin Around.
Be careful when putting the head down. That "Brand New / Shiny" plastic trim dents very easily on glass side rails. I now place a lofty towel, directly on the glass, so the head doesn't touch the side rails at all.

Good deal. Glad to know it works well. Yeah, that’s the only reason I am having to replace it is the two black spots rubbed off the top piece from the side rails. Of course,I only need 5 feet to do the backbox. Now to find a use for the other 13 feet.

#34 50 days ago

Finishing up with the playfield prep. Since I don't remove everything from the bottom of the playfield I like to block big openings so clear doesn't spread as much. This allows the clear to just drop to the floor.
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I have seen this several times. They build these side rails by splicing wood together and the seam doesn't hold. I have a few new side rails that I might be able to make work.
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Then when I was taking the side rails off, one of the screws broke off.
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Since it broke on the shaft, there was not enough left to use a screw extractor. So, I decided to just carefully rotated the side rail counter clockwise and it came right out after 2 turns.
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Nothing else to do with the playfield.
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Time to move the playfield to the hard mount for the rest of the restoration.
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Did a little bit of preliminary cleaning and since this is Diamond Plate, it looks like it is going to clean up really nice.
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#35 50 days ago

At least he responded to you about your issue with decals. He never responded back to me! He didn't hesitate to sell me another set though!

#36 49 days ago

Time to clean the playfield with Novus 2.
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Not sure if you can see the difference in the picture. The right half has been cleaned and the left has not. The white is much brighter on the right side but it doesn't really show up in the pictures.
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All clean and ready to get started.
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There are a few spots that I will try and fix with sanding like the shooter lane. One area that I will try and fix is the red posts seemed to stain the white areas a faint red. Doesn't show up very good in the picture. Not a bid deal because it will be covered with a post light but will try and remove it.
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I don't do anything until I get the playfield scanned.
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Now that the playfield has been scanned I can remove the mylar from the pop bumper area. It should come off with no problems since this is Diamond Plate. But it always makes me nervous and I have flashbacks to my Fire restoration.
I use freeze spray to separate the mylar from the glue.
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Turning the can upside down shoots out the propellant and it freezes the mylar/glue. So after 15 seconds and 2 frostbit fingers. the Mylar is removed. The white area is actually ice.
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You can actually see the glue and the dirt on the edge.
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So now comes the messy part. I use a liquid called TR-60. I'm pretty sure its mineral spirits but it might have something else in it too. I spread the liquid over the glue and let it sit for a minute or two. Then I use flour to provide friction.
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Then you take your finger and start rubbing the flour and you can feel the glue come up. You just keep rubbing around and eventually the flour balls up with the glue. You can feel the areas that have glue because there is a lot of friction. It is smooth where the glue has been removed. You can see the flour balling up.
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After you use op the flout then you clean it all off and then look into the light and you can see the areas that still have glue as it is really dull.
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After a few treatments its all clean. This process was pretty easy on this game. It only took about 10 minutes to clean all the glue off. Some older games take a lot longer.
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Next I documented all the graphics and their location on the cabinet. I have to have documentation of the distances from the edge so I can place the new graphics perfectly. Now if anyone makes fun of my "artwork" I'm throwing you out if here. it doesn't have to be pretty, I just have to understand it.
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#37 47 days ago

Ok. I said I had a couple of ideas for the drop target decals because I do not like the two options I found for sale. It is impossible to print neon orange unless you have special equipment and the two options for sale must not have it. I do not want to put something in the game that is what I consider a down grade so I had to come up with an option to fix this. I had a few and tried one of them today. Also, the pictures and the computer do not really convey how fluorescent the orange is. Its really vibrant.

All 3 targets in the center back looked like this one with damage to the edges of the white area.
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Using a new blade, I very carefully cut out the white area of the decal. It came off in pieces but was able to get it off and clean off the adhesive that was left behind.
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Then I cut some flat white vinyl out.
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Then I placed the new vinyl in place where the old part was. Finished next to one of the 3 other targets that were not damaged.
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The 3 damaged targets finished.
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I will now get a thick mylar and cover the entire target to protect them from damage. I will cover the 3 undamaged targets as well so all 6 have the same finish look.

#38 45 days ago

Playfield ready to clear. It was scuffed up to get rid of the shine to give the clear something to grip. While the playfield looked pretty good, I didn't want to try and do to much and damage the playfield before I got a layer of clear on it. I prefer to clean as best I can and then get a layer of clear to lock everything down and then start my work.
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One thing I did have to fix before I shot was one insert that had a slight ghosting on the bottom right corner.
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Instead of trying to inject clear under the edge I just cut out the area the was ghosted. The clear will fill in the area and then I dropped a little clear on the seam I cut out after I was finished shooting. This builds up the area that was missing and then I will sand it flat in a day or two. Here it is now. This is also a good picture of the damage to the key lines around the inserts.
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Finished spraying. The playfied normally doesn't look that great after the first spray because the clear will follow every imperfection on the playfield so the finish is rarely flat. This will all be fixed after the first sanding. Also, if you look close, you can see some areas that I filled in low spots around the edges of inserts etc. I should have a nice flat surface after the first sanding and the insert outlines are the only areas that will require major work. Glad to have the first layer down.
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#39 44 days ago

What type of clear are you using?

#40 44 days ago
Quoted from TxJay:

What type of clear are you using?

I use Sherwin Williams Finish one. I have been using it for 5 years or so and really like it.

#41 44 days ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I use Sherwin Williams Finish one.

Is it a 2-part clear?

#42 44 days ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Is it a 2-part clear?

Yep.

#43 44 days ago

I did a light sanding of the playfield to open up the surface to help it cure. I will do a normal sanding tomorrow.

Time to attack these decals. This is one of the things I do not care to do but you have too.
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I have used a blowtorch and a scraper and that leaves glue that's hard to clean up. I have had better luck with a heat gun but it still leaves glue. Today I said screw it and I tried sanding and it actually worked better. It still was a long process but the end result was a nice clean cabinet and the total time was probable about the same because after you scrape the decals off, you have to sand the entire cabinet anyways.
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#44 44 days ago

Started cutting the graphics for the cabinet tonight. I always start with the hardest part because sometimes it takes a few cuts to calibrate the blade height etc. When there are suck small pieces, sometimes the adhesive on the piece is not enough for the blade to pick it up so you have to play with the type of blade and pressure etc. to get it right.

The beak was my test piece because of the small pieces. Also, if it messes up, there is not that much waste. It took about 8 cuts to get the final two good ones. Then it was the Talons.
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Now that the cutter seems dialed in, I cut the white on the backbox. The Eagle head is probably the most detailed with small pieces. These cut perfectly the first time.
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Then I started printing the rest which should be easier.
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If I don't have to go to work tomorrow, I should finish cutting the rest of the graphics.

#45 43 days ago

Sanded the playfield today. I had to drop clear around some of the edges due to cracking etc. This ends up leaving a bump that needs to be sanded off. Here is an example of one around the K and E inserts.
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When done, it is nice an flat.
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Took a while but got it all sanded and ready for work. As of now it is sanded with 1000 grit. This allows tooth for the next layer of clear and a good surface for vinyl to stick too.
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It is a dull finish but if you get really low, it will shine and you can see how it looks.
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#46 41 days ago

Had the cutter working overtime tonight.
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Main Cabinet cut.
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Main Cabinet weeded. Big simple graphics are pretty easy to weed. When they get complex line Williams Fire, it becomes a nightmare.
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The Harley text for the main cabinet.
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And for the "Live to Ride Ride to Live" text I am going with a silver metallic.
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Front of main Cab.
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a simple test and the stripes match perfectly.
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Cut the rest of the backbox with the orange and silver metallic.
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Finally the body of the Eagle. It is in gold metallic. Pretty complex but weeded pretty easily. Just had to work on a could little pieces but not bad.
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So all of the graphics for the cabinet are ready to go. I just have to design and cut a custom graphic for the back of the backbox. I am not putting the text back on.

#47 41 days ago

Damn nice work!

#48 40 days ago

Got the insert key lines cut today.
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Did the first round of cabinet repairs. This cabinet is in really nice shape and the only damage is on the corners. If you don't count the part that ripped off with the side rail.

There was only one corner to fix on the backbox. I am toying with the idea of filling in the T molding channel and making it a solid edge but I haven't decided yet.
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A couple of corners on the cabinet. I know they are behind legs. but I am fixing them anyways. Anything that is subtle like the impression from the legs will be fixed with Bondo in the next step.
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And of course the side rail damage.
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#49 39 days ago

Is your garage climate controlled? I was wondering if you can only paint when the weather is warm enough if it isn't.

#50 39 days ago
Quoted from TxJay:

Is your garage climate controlled? I was wondering if you can only paint when the weather is warm enough if it isn't.

When I had my house built I had the large third garage insulated and I have a mini split heat/air unit In there so I am good to go all year. I plan on building a shop with a dedicated paint area sometime this year but this works well for now.

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