That wiring and connectors is shot. All the pins on the supply need to be replaced, each wire needs to be cut and properly repinned.

http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

Bulletproofing info here:
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm

If you replace that board and repin the wires and new connectors you'll be good for a long while, if not forever.........

Game goes in to attract mode?
Do you have credits in the game?
Perform a switch test....all switches register using a balll? (Especially important, are the trough and start switches registering?

Blinked number 8 on the test? What do you mean there?....Should be a total of 7 LED flashes on the motherboard status LED. If you are able to add credits, the game has booted (displays alternate between high score to date). Get a DMM and check your DC solenoid voltage. Can you get into test mode? The displays are probably another separate issue altogether.

It sounds like this game needs a lot of work, do you have electronics experience? Have you read through the repair guides and PinWiki?

Can you access the self test menu at all??

It's a button inside the coin door. Manual has details on order of function and operation but push button and adjust using combo of credit button and test button to increase/decrease values for high score etc... also should run switch test and solenoid test if you can- may not fix or even provide clue to current issues but informative none the less....

I believe manual is on IPDB And is freely downloadable.

This is the first two things to look at. In the Bally repair guides I mentioned earlier in the thread:

"The most common stuck switch problem relates to the capacitor on playfield switches. Note all playfield switches have a capacitor, but most do. Often these capacitors short, leak, or just break off. With the game on and in switch test, cut one end of the capacitor and see if the number goes away on the display in switch test. If so, the capacitor will need to be replaced. If the number doesn't go away, then reconnect the capacitor, as this wasn't the problem (check the switch diode next, in the same manner)."
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm

From your description it sounds like you do not have the 48v for coils. Blown fuse perhaps? Do you have a manual. You should download one that will help you with the self tests.

If the game is up push the red button on the door or the board. First press is lamp test, second is displays, third press is solenoids. It should count down each solenoid number and you should hear it operate. If none of them fire during the count down you have no solenoid power.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1125/Bally_1979_Harlem_Globetrotters_On_Tour_Manual.pdf

The manual will walk you through the test process. Switch #8, BTW, is the outhole. If you have a ball sitting there than that is normal. Try removing the ball and make sure all the targets are up.

Check that 1 amp slo-blo fuse next to the right flipper assembly on the playfield.

Page 17 of your manual shows the switch numbers. Number 8 is the outhole. So if the playfield is in normal playing position and a ball is sitting on the outhole switch then the switch test should show # 8 closed.

OK first of all you are holding the wrong connector. The connector in your hand is for the backbox and the reason there is no 53 wire in pin 13 is because that game has no coils in the backbox therefore no reason to have a 43v wire. To trouble shoot the playfield you should be looking at J1 which has a 60 wire (brown) in pin 6. That wire goes to a small 1amp fuse holder on the bottom of the playfield. Coming off that should be a yellow wire that provides 43v to all the coils.

Next lets back up a bit. Does the knocker coil fire? That is coil #2 and is located in the cabinet. If that's firing then the power supply is working if not there is no 43v and we should be looking at the PS.

If you can hear the knocker go off at #2 and then nothing you have no 48 v going to the playfield. Do you have a volt meter? You should read 43v to ground at the fuse holder under the playfield. If you have voltage at the Brown but the yellow bus has none then you have a blown fuse. BTW those old cheap fuse holders are notorious for breaking and the fuse falling out or loose.

Here is my simple test I used to run. Connect a jumper wire to the metal frame of the game which should be grounded. The very quickly touch the jumper to striped wire soldered to the coil. If there is power on the yellow wire and you ground the other side the coil should fire. If nothing happens you have a problem with the 43v feed coming off J1 or the fuse most likely.