(Topic ID: 285682)

Bally Future Spa Issues


By BenB

6 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by barakandl
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 6 days ago

I am currently working on a future spa for a friend that is in quite poor shape. The objective is to get it playing good then decide how far cosmetically to go.

Power supply has been rebuilt with new bridges, connectors, and fuse clips. Getting good voltages on all the test points.

SDB has new capacitors and recommended upgrades per pinwiki.

MPU is a new weebly board as the old one was toast from severe alkaline damage. Previous MPU had locked on Led even after attempting to clean and replace corrosion zone parts. The new MPU looks great and has gotten me closer to getting this running, but not quite there yet.

After replacing the MPU with the weebly, I get 6 flashes on the MPU. When the 7th flash is to light I get the left kick back and saucer coils to energize. Following that the led locks on dimly. MPU has good 22vdc. Curious of the next thing to try? I have replaced every .156 and .100 connector in the back box.

#2 6 days ago

So what is not working?, It sounds like the game is coming up. When a Bally game comes up it kicks out all the ball locations like the saucer and kicker in case a ball is stuck there. That's part of the boot. Afterwards the LED on the MPU flashes dimly which sounds like your B&I (that's the official name of the Weebly board) is doing. Are the displays lit up? Can you press the self-test button on the front door and put the game in test mode?

#3 6 days ago

-The displays don’t come on
-Won’t go into attract mode
-Cant start a game

I can get the it to go into test and then the displays come on.

#4 6 days ago

Disconnect J1, J2 and J3 on CPU board (only J4 connected) and see how many flashes you get. If you get seven, reconnect connectors one at a time to see what's causing the holdup.

Congrats on all the connector rebuilding. That's a lot of pins. I hope you drank several beers afterward.

#5 6 days ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Disconnect J1, J2 and J3 on CPU board (only J4 connected) and see how many flashes you get. If you get seven, reconnect connectors one at a time to see what's causing the holdup.
Congrats on all the connector rebuilding. That's a lot of pins. I hope you drank several beers afterward.

With just J4 connected I get the same 6 flashes with dim locked on led and the saucer and kickback firing. I also get some sound but no displays or attract mode.

#6 5 days ago
Quoted from BenB:

With just J4 connected I get the same 6 flashes with dim locked on led and the saucer and kickback firing. I also get some sound but no displays or attract mode.

If the MPU diag LED goes to half brightness and stays that way you have passed all seven of the MPU's power up tests. When the MPU diag LED blinks there is a delay between test flash one and test two. When you first power on the MPU the LED turns on briefly and then goes out. At that point is when you start counting flashes. After flash 7 the LED will remain dimly lit at all times for all bally/stern games except for a few exceptions like Flight 2k (not future spa).

I think it raises the drops and kicks out holes at power on so it sounds like you are actually in attraction mode but the lamps are out and the displays are out.

Start at the transformer/rectifier board. The 3/4a fuse is for the displays. Then 10a fuse is for the feature lamps. Check those fuses and see if the connectors look like they are burned up. With a DMM you can very carefully measure for the high voltage (and lamp voltages) starting at the rectifier board.

#7 4 days ago

Thanks for the response now I at least know I am booting just not going into attract mode. I was checking voltages again at the rectifier board and noticed F5 general illumination was blown. It appears as though I have a short. I replaced the fuse and it blows instantly. If I remove the 20 pin J3 plug the fuse holds. Fuse will blow with J3 on the board. I pulled GI buss pins 10 and 11 (orange and red) and tried applying power with just one or the other installed. Both caused fuse to blow. Any advice on the best way to narrow down a GI short. Could it be on the rectifier board itself?

#8 4 days ago

Is this a multiball game? Or better question, does the B&I board think it's a multiball game? Bally games with more than one pinball will boot and not come on line if a ball is missing. So first thing I would do is check the MPU and make sure it's set for Future Spa.

Once you confirm the B&I board is set properly for FS put the game in switch test and make sure there are no stuck switches and make sure all the ball rest spots like the outhole are registering when a ball is there.

#9 4 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Is this a multiball game? Or better question, does the B&I board think it's a multiball game? Bally games with more than one pinball will boot and not come on line if a ball is missing. So first thing I would do is check the MPU and make sure it's set for Future Spa.
Once you confirm the B&I board is set properly for FS put the game in switch test and make sure there are no stuck switches and make sure all the ball rest spots like the outhole are registering when a ball is there.

Future spa is a single ball game. MPU is set correctly per weebly dip MPU setting sheet. In switch test I get a single 0 on the credit display indicating no closed switches. I will try and check tonight the switches activate when ball is present.

#10 4 days ago

good visual inspection of the backbox light board. They are usually two strings of bare wires going around to each lamp stapled to the wooden board. Look for any problems like crossed over wires or evidence someone in the past messing around with wiring. Its possible for the little spring thing in a center of lamp socket to break, fold over and touch the barrel creating a short. Possible a bad lamp could be shorted. I would pull all the lamps out. If you having trouble finding the short and getting desperate, break the GI into sections to narrow down where the short actually is. Someone could have wired up the J3 rect plug wrong too. Very common to see the GI wires hacked around burnt connectors.

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